Girafficonical

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Everything posted by Girafficonical

  1. https://imgur.com/a/yc7vwrW Hello! Going to start using this thread as documentation of my LPE (Lego Pneumatic Engine) Powered vehicle, mostly for personal use but also for those who are new to LPE’s and can learn from my mistakes. Currently, it’s a combination of these creations: - A modified V4 version of Green Gecko LEGO Technic Creation’s V8 - Eurobrick user Rudivdk’s 5+R Transmission with only minimal modification for compatibility with frame - Sheepo’s Modular Platform System Unibody (C.A.1) and XL 4-Link rear axle (R.ED.1.4) (modified due to either budget or mounting reasons) https://www.sheepo.es/p/mps.html?m=1 Upgrade To-Do List: - Free-wheel Ratchet for Pneumatic Engine output - Braking system - Possibly V6? - Front axle (Sheepo MPS MacPherson) - Central differential for AWD - Electronics to control transmission - High Pressure Air tank for powering LPE - Vehicle Body(ies) (Most likely will be a DeLorean and possibly also an alternative Subaru WRX STi body) Will update as improvements/milestones occur. Feel free to correct anything (I’m new to posting on Eurobricks so I may have made a mistake somewhere), suggest upgrades, and/or ask any questions. My overall goal is to create a decently realistic LEGO vehicle that will function similarly to an actual manual transmission vehicle. I intend to keep modularity as intact as possible, allowing for the whole vehicle to be disassembled into sections. The only real limit of this project is budget but every now and then, I get the extra cash to spend on improving this vehicle. I will be painfully digitally designing the vehicle in LEGO digital designer along the way and hopefully once the project is complete, I’ll have a complete digital copy of the whole vehicle, as well as a physical copy.
  2. Update #6 - Motorization I was able to afford the necessary electronics for motorizing the model which was a BuWizz, 3 Servo motors, and an L motor. I plan to use the L motor (and a old spare M motor) to add disk brakes but for current testing purposes, I’m using the L motor as a propulsion demonstration. Here is a video of a successful suspended 5-speed pull! (Ignore the slippage, I haven’t lubricated the gears in a while) https://imgur.com/a/rrbVMDu LPE driving soon!
  3. Update #5 Long time no see and Happy New Years! - Success! I have been working on and off this MOC for the past 2 months whilst busy with Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year. I finally acquired silicone and PTFE lubricants for lubing my drivetrain and engine which have been working well. I’ve constructed the front axle using the Porsche set and created a sufficient mounting solution that enables me to switch between a Boxer and V engine. I’m also using a lockable center differential with a disengage-able front axle for different drivetrain testing. I have a video attached of the V-engine LPE running at ~45 PSI on first gear. I haven’t modified my switches yet so the Boxer engine is unable to bear load and simply stalls, unlike the V-engine. I have successfully driven the vehicle in a straight but did not film it at the time. Included below is an image of the current model state and a video of the test! https://imgur.com/a/8avvw72 I’m saving up sometime in 2020 to afford a Buwizz and three servo motors (2 for shifting, 1 for steering) but will most likely take a long time as I have other projects going on such as building a new computer.
  4. Update #4 - 42096 Porsche 911 RSR As aforementioned, I have finally received the set, 42096. I will most likely have a front axle finished in the next week or so depending on how busy I am. Just as a disclaimer, my LPE chassis is not going into the set, I’m merely using the set for its pieces. This beautiful set will sadly most likely never get built but it will definitely live in heart of my LPE powered vehicle. Front axle update soon, hopefully by the end of this month. https://imgur.com/a/Kjp845X
  5. Currently in the process of rebuilding the entire frame of my MOC. Will be sure to do so! Awesome to know that you’ve seen my project! Big fan of your realistic gearbox! I’m also planning on motorizing the shifting mechanism using two servo motors and a joystick IR remote set-up (similar to the video below) with a proper shifting knob pattern “guards” to prevent selecting while engaged. I’m most likely going to try to get in contact with either Sbrick or Buwizz to see if I can get a shifting pattern profile programmed (like the image attached below) once I get to that stage of motorization. I’ll keep in touch if I manage to pull that off for my MOC! Buwizz’s ludicrous mode may win over Sbrick however since I was confirmed by their support that servo motors react quicker in ludicrous mode which would reduce the chances of selecting gears whilst engaged. iPhones recently got a game controller support update so also look forward to seeing your gearbox controlled by a game controller joystick in the future!
  6. Update #2 Clutch and All Wheel Drive - Clutch I’ve gotten parts from Bricklink to construct two of LPEpower’s one-way clutches (http://lpepower.com/products/one-way-clutch). After testing clutch location between the engine and transmission or between the transmission and drivetrain, I’ve determined the transmission and drivetrain location has the least amount of stress on the drive train, especially in the transmission. https://imgur.com/a/HrlUynN - All Wheel Drive I’m receiving a 42096 Porsche 911 RSR set (https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/porsche-911-rsr-42096) in order to aid in the completion of my LPE powered vehicle. I cannot disclose much information as it would reveal too much personal information about myself but expect a big update in a few weeks regarding a front axle, central axle, and first drive test. Sorry! Didn’t see this until now. I prefer to use Imgur as it lets me keep the original image file, even if I delete the image off my phone. Essentially, if I ever want to get older pictures of my project, I can just access the Imgur link here and have the full, non-compressed file available. I hope you enjoy my project progression!
  7. Update #1 Brakes and Tires https://imgur.com/a/jcTS4RW - Brakes Created the first rear axle brake system prototype for the vehicle. Initially messed around with U-joints and rotating a 2x1 lift arm against a belt wedge wheel but found it to be difficult to achieve without compromising on suspension. I’ve managed to get this pneumatic brake system to function reasonably and is suspension friendly. Will be replacing blue 1x2 half lift-arm with that specialty rubber 1x2 lift-arm piece later on. The “brake pad” is also adjustable which is also great. - Tires I’ve summed up a fine collection of 56mm x 34mm compatible tires. I have sets of 4 for all of them except for the 68.8 x 36 ZR tires. Managed to get the 81.6 x 36 R for $5 a wheel (with rim) and the Unimog 94.3 x 38 R for $4 a tire (no rim as I plan on getting a set of grey rims down the line for the DeLorean). DeLorean final model will most likely use the 81.6 x 36 ZR’s and Unimog’s (possible Back to the Future conversion and stance look with Unimog tires).
  8. I plan on having two air tanks, one hard plastic bottle and one high pressure air tank which are mounted on each side of the vehicle. I’ve been eyeing this one airsoft HPA tank which is roughly the same size as a 500ml water bottle and is capable of storing 3000 psi in 10ci. I was successfully able to get in contact with an airsoft/paintball distributor and they informed me that while the tank is meant for airsoft/paintball, it can be converted to ASA/Macroline tubing and fittings and I’m able to control the tank’s output using a valve. The process goes: The HPA tank’s air pressure goes through a heavily limited valve, into a water bottle (with ASA or Macroline adapter to water bottle cap), and then all of the pneumatics will be connected to the plastic water bottle. In case I accidentally overfill the bottle, I’m going to create a pseudo-exhaust system which will dump air from the tank if the pressure gets too strong. The only real challenges would be finding a way to control the valve of the HPA tank while it’s under pressure. Kind of like a throttle pedal that’ll give the engine more air.
  9. I've been fiddling with pneumatic engines for a while now and started to want to push my engine to its possible limits. I'll be running it at higher PSI ratings, my goal is at least 60 PSI, so I'll need to upgrade the tubing (I'm using cheap silicone tubing for the time being). I've seen rigid tubing before in builds such as LPEpower's V8 http://www.lpepower.com/products/pushrod-v8-engine. Does anyone by any chance know where to purchase rigid pneumatic tubing?