rkkm

Eurobricks Vassals
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About rkkm

  1. 42039 - 45 Euro New 8366 - 150 euro Used [ with instructions ] 8266 - 8 euro Used [ with instructions ] 9398 - 120 euro Used 2x 5292 Rc motors - 45 euro Used 8051 - 20 euro Used [ with instructions ] 42065 - 50 euro NEW
  2. The darkest time has comed, bad forces of.... wait, meh just kids existing in my house knowded as my cousines just have used my rc controller as boat in pool. So, yeah - i need help with getting new, i have decieded that i will buy those pistol typed rc controller, i know that it has to have tacting at 27.145 mhz, but is that all? if i buy pistol typed controller tacting at 27.145 mhz will it actually work? And final question is range, my though is that normal rc controllers would have better range but correct me if im wrong. Im surprisingly happy even my controller was used as boat, maybe cause of that it was used as boat supposed to transport Little ponnies :P
  3. Well i got some problems with my rc controller so u have to wait, sorry mate :( i think this is because of that battery have died but i cant confirm that :(
  4. So u mean dirt crushers and other with those kind of rc stuff in there? If yes i can agree its their nominal voltage ( normal fresh out of recharging is about 8.4 v ).
  5. 7,2 v system? From where u got that kinda information?
  6. Im going back home at afternoon so about in 6-7hours :) Im not surprised of that u have bourned reciever, they are really tricky and above 9v they can fry Sbrick safe limit is 10.8 v but as i said - above it till 11.8v it is still kinda safe but can fry.
  7. Please stop mate, dont tell me to be carefull - im using 12v often in rc unit for 4 months, i know what to avoid, above 9v and above burn sbrick? 12 v is maximal safe for rc unit, more would turn on motor prot. for sbrick 10.8 v is save barrier - still safe, wont fry anything, and 11.8v is barrier should never ever be done - it would fry everything. I was testing high voltage with pf and rc unit from months, i know every safe barrier for everything, dont try to teach me :) I think i should do topic with my tests to clear everything, thinking that 9v+ can fry everything is stupid, i see that noone has done before on this forum and on yt tests like me, i was running m, l, xl motors with 12.6v supply for hours - till batterys get too low on energy and nothing ever happened, for ir reciever i do not know exacltly what barrier is but at 11 v it was smelling like frying, rc unit is something thats teoritically unprotected but practically motors are protected so if someone put power supplies like more than 11.8 -12v which are safety barrier for uggy motors, motors will stop and doing sounds like zzzzzzzzzzz, so that is information like rc unit is screaming "getta heck out with those batterys" :D sbrick i do not have to test cause on sbrick forums and in private messages i was informed by devs that safe barrier is 11.8 but even above 10.8 everything can fry so i will be using lifepo4 instead of li ions, li ions generate 12.6v ( 3 pieces ) and lifepos generate 10.8v ( 3pieces )
  8. Meh, im not really in record breakers, i have build ones trycycle with rc unit with steering and no gearing and it went 25kmh, i think that i will start competition with fastest racers, so prepare :P But i have got an idea in doing record that could kick all of your megablocks if my calculations are not wrong, but it would require some more parts etc. For now im looking forward to build a small racer, 2 rc motors, sbrick, small batbox, servo - this will be fun car - easy to ride, with disc brakes or clutch which would change output using to power wheels from slow to fast and fast to slow, so stay tuned :P Also i plan to build a racer with 1 rc unit and 3 motors to test some combinations with gears and racer with 4 motors and 2 rc units, but i will have to wait for new batteries cause with normal alkaine ones, weight is too much, about 500g both rc units, if i use 2 rc units with my batteries voltage will increase by 2v and weight will decrease by more than 200g, and i will also try combination similar to what i want to try in a record breaker but for now im doing some tests, for example i have done pivot wheel, by using 68mm tire and putting in it 62.4 mm tire so the steering got pivot cause wheel hub is perfectly in centre of wheel and it require less torque to drive when stteered so only pros! It is a bit wip cause i dont got for now money or wheels from set 8448 and their wheel hubs, it would cost me 25E and rest of money i have spent on sbrick, second prototype of mine is making steering with pivot, with positive caster angle ( 30 degree ) and with ackermans geometry, i dont know if it is but for now in my thinking its best option of possible steering :)
  9. No lifepos generete 10.8v which is ok for sbrick, i have used in my rc unit even 12v, and it doesnt fry anything, but playing with 12 volts require riding skills, no fast starts, you know starting driving with 1 speed then 2 and 3 and no crushes, if something like this happen car stopps and protection of motors is turning on :)
  10. No ones talking about toys going 40 kmh, rc system normally goes 15-20 kmh which is totally ok, children like cars, not self crushing sprinters going 40 kmh for crush :D @TechnicSummse oh now i see how build is hes stering, i tried similar way using same method but with 2 wheels, and i couldnt place corectly rubber bands, im going to redo it better but for now im making steering with pivot :)
  11. Thats the sad point, rc system is best what lego have done for me, but yes, 15 years and they only going worse with remote and radio controll... can u send me link to this hockey spring that @Marxpek has done>?
  12. Custom batbox specially for small model, but im using standard 6 aaa bat box normally, sbrick is great, i think that lego should do something aka sbrick, it is better ir reciever and m likely to use it, fot now i only had rc unit and im dissapointed, servo is hopeless without using steering unit for steering or only for getting better return to centre, it is to heavy and im not satisfied wit that range, i had build tricycle which went faster than 24kmh and steering and range made it really non fun riding unfortunately :( edit, dont saw first time u want pics, problem is that my phone has crashed but my friend will meet me next day so we will continue building, i will post photos then, he fortunately got it :D
  13. dont got vid but ill try to explain, i had make together with my friend racer with 4 motors and 2 rc units, and the problem was that gearing 1:1.2 was best i can do, instead it wouldnt even reach 2kmh, bbut it was driving, it was about 1.20 m long and not really wide, 4 68mm tires, now im waiting for my lifepo4 soshine batterys and i will try using 3 of them in batbox with connected 2 motorss and rc unit connected to 2 motors, weight will drop about 200g so i think it will drive better :) also waiting for sbrick and i will post topic with my smallest racer ( 1 buggy motor, servo sbrick and custom bat box ( 3 lifepo4 batterys ) it will be based on 8266 winged jumper, for now i just wait for batterys, sbrick and servo, prototype is built and looks promising :)
  14. hmm, maybe thats the trick, i see that in your 40 kmh wip racer u connect all motors separetly to gears, i connect them all together by axle, i think that it give same torque but i might be wron am i? Oh, and are u using other types than alkaine or nimh type batteries in this wip racer?