Mechbuilds

Building the servo on the front would create many issues.. Nose being very long.. Wire not long enough.. Awkward buwizz placement.. I wonder if i can make RWD work if the moc is much larger. Talking about 1:10 scale. I've built @Charbel Volcano RS front axle with slight modifications to accept servo. The steering isn't too bad. It isn't drift steer by any means but it's good enough. But now i have suspension. I think i really want a model car that can drift. To make it work is extremely difficult because motor placement and buwizz placement and trying to have a fake engine in the mix is almost impossible with interior.. Probably if i scrap the fake engine, it could be done. To make it drift however.. I might do a 2 RC motor solid real axle instead of independent suspension rear axle. The tyres are 68.8 x 36 chinese copy tyres. Why? Because the chinese copy rubber is very stiff and hard. So it provides less grip. Which is better for drifting. Lego tyre rubber is very soft and grippy. Does anybody know the largest drift lego car ever built? I'm sure lego motors have their limitations but how big can we build before weight becomes an issue?

Option 4: Cut + glue. Because lego should have fixed this issue before releasing these hubs.

I asked about this earlier and got ignored so imma just ask again. Is there a difference between: And When i'm building IFS and using this part --> You kinda need to attach both of those ball cup forks together from that stud hole on the front near the ball joint cup. When you put those half beams there to make sure the suspension doesn't pop off when compressed, that half beam will interfere with that wheel bearings steering arm. So when you attach a servo, it can't turn all the way 90 degrees but it will instead turn 85 degrees. Which is an issue since the servo is now fighting against the lego parts trying to turn the whole 90 degrees. This will damage the lego servo over time. Why did lego not make room enough to clear that half beam? Does the gray wheel bearing have better clearance over the black one? I'm seriously annoyed about that 5 degrees turn radius issue. And i was wondering if ordering that gray bearing will fix the issue. That's why i'm asking if the gray one has better clearance or is it just the same.

Made a 4wd drift chassis. Very light. The servo placement is kinda awkward. it would protrude trough the windshield. As for power, it has plenty enough power.. Almost too much power. Drifting is kinda impossible because the tail will just whip aggressively. So basically turning will result into a donut. For the servo placement, can't really flip it upside down because it would interfere with the drive shaft. Can't really mount it in front of the front axle because then placing the buwizz would be harder. I think my chassis needs more weight in the rear to stop it from tailwhipping. One solution would be to mount the servo to the rear and have a very long axle for steering.. Which is probably the only way.. Currently my chassis is 35 studs long and 13 studs between tires. Definitely a good start to work from. EDIT: Notes: For RWD drifter, make sure that the tail is light and have lots of weight on the front axle. For AWD drifter, make sure that the tail is heavier than the front.

I've been looking at supercar builds with 17 studs between wheel hubs. If i were to build a car of that scale. Would RWD be enough? If i had two buggy motors powering the rear wheels with welded diff. But having the front axle with a larger turning radius.. Not only at that scale i'd get a working suspension but also a cool big supercar. But would it drift is the question. AWD is impossible with wheel hubs because CV joints have very limited turning radius.

@FoxOne Interesting input. I personally agree that AWD + welded rear diff is the best option to go if you want to get controllable drifts instead of just making donuts all the time. I haven't even considered using the chassis of the moc to brake the front wheel when turning. I'm very interested in seeing your test bed. I'll PM you on my project if you could help me with it. I'll post progress on my drifter build in my projects thread. If i figure out anything cool to add on making drift cars from lego, i'll add info here.

Oh well i have the 2 buggy motors in place and i'm starting to build a chassis around it.. Next issue is creating the front axle and steering. After i get the front axle done, the rear axle will be easy.. Still haven't decided what scale to make it or what car to make. I started to think about scale. I wonder if i build a working independent suspension, will the car be so large that the two buggy motors won't have enough power to drive it? Ofc taped wheels will help it drift but i wonder how big can i build before it's weight will be an issue? Considering i want to build bodywork on it instead of just using an axle frame.

I'm still trying to figure out if i should make Axle connection for tyre and use U joints for big steering lock. Or should i use those black wheel hubs for stud connection to tyre and a more robust chassis. But with CV joint i will loose a fair bit of steering angle. But then again if i'm going 4wd, will it matter if i loose all that steering angle? Also suspension or no suspension? Tough call.. Space is fairly limited. Dodge charger wheels are pretty wide and when steering, they really need lots of room.

You can do it so it skids with all 4's or you can make it so the front wheels are not taped. Both have their benefits and issues. You can for example, create front wheels that are only half taped and add camber. That way when you drift in a corner, you maintain grip on the inner side and have no grip on the outer side. That way you get grip in the turn which will make the turns sharper.. Or you can tape it the other way so the outer wheel has grip and inner wheel doesn't. That way you get loose grip on the inside which will make the turns less sharp.

Rear wheel drive will just spin around a circle doing donuts.. Drifting is not doing donuts.. It's going a long curve sideways. AWD is better so you can actually maintain some controlability and actually handle the car drift.. Most if not all RC drift cars are also AWD.. I think the issue on this is that people keep thinking about real cars in real life. I know it's hard to understand but for RC cars, they behave completely differently when drifting compared to real life cars. If you want to break traction easily, you setup the gearing so rear wheels are spinning faster than the front wheels. That way your car will move like a front wheel drive so it steers and moves the car while the rear end is just spinning and sliding about. @Attika already made a thread with the drift wagon explaining why AWD is better than RWD with video evidence. EDIT: @Gray Gear You are correct that it's a lot harder to break traction of 4 wheels than 2.. But who said that you are breaking traction of 4 wheels? The front wheels will never lose traction. The front wheels will steer and move the car while the rear is drifting.

While the 4x4 project is waiting for parts, i already started working on the drifter. Here is the current wip: Two buggy motors joined together. Both have their own axle. Should i combine the motors so they work together or keep them separate? Do i gain more torque or does it matter? Currently there are two 4 long axles that have those yellow bushings and a beam in the middle to stop the axle from pushing in. I could replace that with a 9 long axle and build a brace inside that holds the axle centered. The more i think about it, the more i want to use just one single axle.

When you look at "Gears of doctor"'s drift Skyline. I kinda like the 4 buggy motor setup for 4wd drift. I don't have 4 buggy motors though.. I only have 2. I wonder if it's possible to make a setup that has 2 buggy motors + 1 servo and buwizz for power. I'll probably put one buggy per axle. Biggest issue will be the front axle. Figuring out how to get room for the buggy motor in the middle to power both tyres and then have enough room for a servo. Suspension will probably be impossible to add in this size and scale if i want a drifter to be nearly the same size but i think 2 stud narrower than the skyline. And even if the suspension is possible, it needs to be very minimal and extremely stiff.. So basically if the moc is shown as a display piece, you get very minimal suspension flex to barely call it a suspension and it won't interfere with drifting. EDIT: Ahh ofc..

This. Very much this. There is a reason why i always completely disassemble everything and keep them in storage.. Every single part that's left connected for too long gets issues.. Pins get looser.. But the parts you've shown have always that issue. The axle connector is too thin and it cracks.. Why does it need that gear teeth gap when there are rarely if not ever mocs or sets that need it. Why can't we have alternatives that are the same part but with a thicker end? Think about those axle to pin connectors, they have a thick axle connection to them that gets no issues. But when you compare it to an axle to axle connector, it has that thin end to it that has clearance for an 8 tooth gears teeth.. Always snaps and breaks. U joints are the same deal. Their ends snap when you push an axle in because it has that 8 tooth gear teeth clearance.. Lego should remove it or a chinese copy cat to start making a part without that gear teeth clearance. Every time i build mocs, i always go for pin connections and never build mocs that need axle connections for a structural chassis. Half beams that have axle hole ends always snap in half in the end when you push an axle trough it. So if i'm building a moc, i always build everything so it's connected by a pin and mainly use axles for gear boxes and power transfer. But never for structural strength.

UPDATE: Axles done, chassis done. The diff lock mechanism on the rear axle could do some work but it works for now. Pics: The suspension is sooooo smooootth.. I think this is the smoothest suspension i've ever built from lego. The black springs can barely handle the weight after putting the hearse body shell on top of it. Anyways. After this project is done, i'll return back to the drift car project. It will have two buggy motors. One for each axle. Cheers!

Awesome to see you back making mocs! This is one hell of a project! Gonna keep my eye on this one!

I suggest using brickowl instead of bricklink since it's much easier to navigate and use. Not to mention some sellers give better prices than bricklink does.

I suggest we vote on the ideas we come up with. Either to have a wip subforum, pro subforum or newbie subforum or what ever you guys come up with. I for one would welcome more newbie threads. Nobody is going to get better if nobody does mistakes that we could learn from. More tutorials from pros would also help. @nicjasno's livestream has helped a lot of newbies and teached many techniques that some people would never have even considered. Community collab mocs would also be a cool idea. Somebody who has access to lots of parts could make a community collab moc thread where everyone has a chance to chip in and help dish out ideas. It could be an EB moc that would have free instructions as we all chipped in and made it together. Ofc this would mean that one person who has lots of parts would need to sacrifice hes time and effort building it. Unless we go all digital and share the LDD.

Just to throw my 2 cents here.. I agree with jim about the constructive criticism. Imagine if you were a 12 year old posting your first moc here, not knowing much yet. And then somebody would tell you that your stuff will never work and you can't build anything right, you should just completely disassemble that horrible contraption before anybody else copies it. The soulcrushing criticism like that would pretty much deter newbies out of the forum and post somewhere else. The forum has raised it's bar a lot and every moc here is pretty much built by a "professionals". What i mean about that is that every moc here are pretty much done with 100's of hours and fine tuned and polished to look amazing. There aren't any wip threads anymore. Don't know if having a newbie subforum would fix the issue but i would suggest a wip subforum where newbies can make threads, get help, and not feel bad if they don't finish their builds. Because even if you don't finish your build, you still learn new techniques. Perhaps you started to build something and you find out a flaw on it's scale or features that can't be fixed in that scale and you have to choose to either finish it while compromising or disassemble it and build something else. Why people do this is basically because the forum has raised it's bar so high that your crappy compromise of a moc is not even worth the time when there are pretty much almost photorealistic mocs here. I think that a wip subforum would get much more action with newbies learning things and giving help to eachother.

Something big... Something powerful. The suspension is so smooth and nice. But i dislike the axles. Might redesign them.. If i make them 2 studs narrower, the claas tyre will collide with the chassis. I wonder if rough terrain crane tyres would fit better for this moc..

Fun fact, mice like to bite on low power electrical wiring because it sends pleasure impulses to their brains and make them orgasm. That's why mice always chew on car wiring.

I guess if your chassis is technic and bodywork is system then it should belong here. But if your chassis is system and your bodywork is system then it should be in scale modelling. But what if your chassis is system and bodywork is technic?

Basically i need to squeeze two XL motors inside that tiny gap. (imagine the second half of the frame attached to the gray beams end.) The black axle on the bottom with 2 red bushings is drive for front and rear axles. Both XL motors need to work together to spin the black axle. If possible, the tan axle on the top would spin the fake engine. I was planning on using an M motor to spin the fake engine so i can display it with engine running without moving the moc. But for now, How can i drive the black axle with those 2 XL motors? Don't have an LDD for this yet.

It can but i don't have any more 24t gears. So this will do.

Very solid too. Sure there is a tiny bit of slack on the front axle due to so many gears but i can live with that.

There would be room for another XL motor on the other side and the axle could come to the fake engine straight on top of the XL motor.. But the wire is in the way. And if i mount the XL motor sideways so the wire clears, then i couldn't brace the XL motor in any way. Ooh you mean both XL motors stacked on top of eachother. Bottom one driving rear axle and top one driving the fake engine and front axle? ' Thank you so much guys! Now i have one extra motor to use as a winch!