RC Deck - Performance Power Supply With Radio Control

[NoEXIST]

Waited quite a long time for these!

 

[aFrInaTi0n]

Please also put me on the list of people interested in being a tester. 

 

This project would fill a gap we all need and want - I am sure of that 🤩

[NoEXIST]

5 minutes ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

Please also put me on the list of people interested in being a tester. 

 

This project would fill a gap we all need and want - I am sure of that 🤩

Actually, after I build this final one, I can open order for first batch and order the components😁

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

Hello technic Community,

I'm recently working on something very similar to @NoEXIST. So I want to share my thoughts and progress as well.

The concept is an RC box with (up to) 16 channels. The receiver, associated telemetry and the power functions outputs are integrated in the box, while a battery must be connected externally in the form of a 2-3S Lipo. As a proof of concept, I am currently working on a 10 channel version, which has 2 full size ports for servos and motors and 8 dual channel ports for motors only (Size: 4x9x5 Studs). The Dual Channel Configuration allows to control two motors separately over one PowerFunctions Connector. Goal of this project is being used for complex models with many motors and functions (therefore up to 16 channels) while using an RC-grade remote (long range, fast response time) and a strong lipo to get longer running times. 

My current high-end model (Pistenbully 600W Polar) has 14 Motors and requires 3 Buwizz 2.0 Units to work. Even with them, the runtime in snow is only about 10 minutes. When using an 3S Lipo I would be able to get even better performance out of the motors as well as a longer runtime (if the lipo capacity is bigger).

A video of the dual channel test

I will post something new when the prototype is finished.

Best regards
Adrian

Edited March 29 by MisterCreators Custom MOCs

[NoEXIST]

1 hour ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

The concept is an RC box with (up to) 16 channels.

I can see 6 pf ports in your unit, how can you use another 10 channels? They will be connected via JR connectors directly to the receiver or something like that?

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

45 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

I can see 6 pf ports in your unit, how can you use another 10 channels? They will be connected via JR connectors directly to the receiver or something like that?

The two inner ones (labled RC/S) Are full size ports. They can control 1 Servo motor or 1 normal motor (m/l/xl) the 4 outer ones are dual channel ports. They can control two individual motors (m/l/xl). So with the 4 outer Ports 8 motors can be controlled separately. In my youtube video you can see how 2 motors are stacked on one Powerfunctions port.

 

[NoEXIST]

@MisterCreators Custom MOCsthis is a nice concept, but I bet you did resolder wires? M/L/XL normally use only two contacts (in the middle) and the other 2 are used in PF servo and other things like receivers. Am I correct?

So your RC box is made similarly like mine, receiver and ESC's inside and the battery outside? But the purpose is not to power as much Buggy motors in small size as possible but to make a lot of channels to control complex creations?

I didn't think it's a nice idea to use RC for such models before as I mostly see 2-4 channel remote used in cars:) Are these RC receivers and transmitters from plane and scale construction vehicles world?

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

43 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

@MisterCreators Custom MOCsthis is a nice concept, but I bet you did resolder wires? M/L/XL normally use only two contacts (in the middle) and the other 2 are used in PF servo and other things like receivers. Am I correct?

So your RC box is made similarly like mine, receiver and ESC's inside and the battery outside? But the purpose is not to power as much Buggy motors in small size as possible but to make a lot of channels to control complex creations?

I didn't think it's a nice idea to use RC for such models before as I mostly see 2-4 channel remote used in cars:) Are these RC receivers and transmitters from plane and scale construction vehicles world?

There is no need to resolder any motor wires. Anything is plug and play. There is a special crossover brick needed to run the second channel (you can see that there is an empty connector between the two motors in my video). I´ve not tried the servo ports yet, but I will when the prototype is finished. 

Yes receiver and ESC´s inside, battery external.

It is possible to power Buggy Motors as well, every single channel can output 5A peak and 3A continues. With 11,1V (12,6V when 3S is fully charged) The Buggy motors will run way faster and are powerful enough to overpower your gripstrengh on an axle (i guess that they are stronger as well then). It will be possible to build some very quick vehicles with that.

RC Receiver and transmitter are special for scale construction vehicles. The receiver is running the FlySky AFHDS3 standard and compatible with every remote that uses that standard. 

I plan on making smaller versions with fewer channels as well (4,8,10,12,16) but only if my first tests and the prototype are working.

I hope I will finish my prototype in the next few days, then i will upload a video of the testing :)

[NoEXIST]

1 hour ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

There is a special crossover brick needed to run the second channel (you can see that there is an empty connector between the two motors in my video).

Yeah, I see

1 hour ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

every single channel can output 5A peak and 3A continues.

Sounds similar to what I use for PU port in mine, but also seems you found something smaller! Basically we have same products with different amount of channel and different size. 

I hope we will soon offer a solutions for both purposes! And hopefully they will last a while as I'm afraid that PF is slowly dying

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

After two months of work, I now can proudly present my first handmade prototype of my 10 channel RC Box. There is very much work to be done, I have to change my connectors for better contact and for tighter fit. Also, I have to look for another way to address lego servos for proportional control since they don't use PWM. 

But have a look by your self:

Feedback is appreciated :)

[oracid]

Very good work.

Can you tell us more about remote and receiver ?

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

1 hour ago, oracid said:

Very good work.

Can you tell us more about remote and receiver ?

Thank You :)

Remote is an FlySky PL18 Paladin EV featuring up to 18 channels with telemetry using the AFHDS3 protocol. The receiver is a corresponding FlySky Receiver. Currently, all AFHDS3 Remotes are compatible and for other remotes you can get a AFHDS3 extension module for about 100€, then opentx remotes and every remote that has an extension port will work. 

[amorti]

3 hours ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

 

Feedback is appreciated :)

It's a thread hijack.

Let's look at it on your own thread.

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

22 minutes ago, amorti said:

It's a thread hijack.

Let's look at it on your own thread.

I'm very sorry for that and didn't mean to do that. I thought that these topics are very related, and so I just posted here. But now I created my own thread about the RC Box :) 

Edited April 1 by MisterCreators Custom MOCs

[oracid]

Unfortunately, the world of radio control is a real minefield and each brand, or even each device, has its own protocol.
The most popular transmitter is the FlySky FS-i6X (around €50 on Ali) which supports the AFHDS2A protocol.
Transmitters supporting the AFHDS3 protocol cost several hundred euros. The FlySky Paladin PL18EV costs €680.
For my part, I think that a Lego radio control system must be as inexpensive as possible to have a minimum of success.

Here is a link describing the AFHDS3 protocol and previous ones for French speakers. https://www.helicomicro.com/2020/05/14/flysky-afhds-3/

(In my opinion, it would be ridiculous to create a new topic.)

Edited April 2 by oracid

[MisterCreators Custom MOCs]

49 minutes ago, oracid said:

The FlySky Paladin PL18EV costs €680.

That is right, but you can get the Paladin in the Basic variant for €250.

Otherwise you can get an AFHDS3 Extension Module which should work with every remote that has an extension slot for about €100

 

51 minutes ago, oracid said:

AFHDS2A protocol.

I've looked into this, and it will be possible to support the AFHDS2A as well.

But maybe we should continue the conversation at the RC Box thread

[oracid]

3 hours ago, MisterCreators Custom MOCs said:

I've looked into this, and it will be possible to support the AFHDS2A as well.

This is a very good news !

[wower]

On 4/2/2024 at 8:05 AM, oracid said:

Unfortunately, the world of radio control is a real minefield and each brand, or even each device, has its own protocol.
The most popular transmitter is the FlySky FS-i6X (around €50 on Ali) which supports the AFHDS2A protocol.
Transmitters supporting the AFHDS3 protocol cost several hundred euros. The FlySky Paladin PL18EV costs €680.
For my part, I think that a Lego radio control system must be as inexpensive as possible to have a minimum of success.

Here is a link describing the AFHDS3 protocol and previous ones for French speakers. https://www.helicomicro.com/2020/05/14/flysky-afhds-3/

(In my opinion, it would be ridiculous to create a new topic.)

exactly.. cheap and for kids (with a remote that they can hold, not some monstrosilty with a screen built in ;-))

[NoEXIST]

I think we can start first pre-order! Contact me on rcdeck.order@gmail.com

 

[gyenesvi]

Looks nice!

Is the receiver on the PCB or is it separate? Any chance that I can swap that out to a FLySky by re-soldering wires? I just bought a small 4-channel FlySky receiver and works nicely with my transmitter. (In general, what's on the PCB and what's separate, if you are okay with sharing such things?)

How did you power 4 buggy motors? Did you stack two plugs on one port for that? Didn't that ever melt the plugs for you? Some people reported such things.

What's the electronics right where the battery is connected? That seems to take up quite some space, and next to it there seems to be quite a bit of empty space.

Do you have a link to the batteries you are using? I mostly find 3s LiPos with larger connectors, like XT 30/60, and often only 2s comes with JST (I guess you are using 3s).

[NoEXIST]

52 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

Looks nice!

Is the receiver on the PCB or is it separate? Any chance that I can swap that out to a FLySky by re-soldering wires? I just bought a small 4-channel FlySky receiver and works nicely with my transmitter. (In general, what's on the PCB and what's separate, if you are okay with sharing such things?)

How did you power 4 buggy motors? Did you stack two plugs on one port for that? Didn't that ever melt the plugs for you? Some people reported such things.

What's the electronics right where the battery is connected? That seems to take up quite some space, and next to it there seems to be quite a bit of empty space.

Do you have a link to the batteries you are using? I mostly find 3s LiPos with larger connectors, like XT 30/60, and often only 2s comes with JST (I guess you are using 3s).

1. Receiver, it's separate, you can connect your one if it fits. Not sure if they have pins in the same order, but it can be done even without soldering 

2. Buggy motors, as I said before, I'm using Y-cables to connect 2 buggy motors to one deck port, it works nicely this way

3. The electronics right under(on) JST connector is that 30A ESC

4. You're right about that empty space, but I don't see a way to put electronics in a different way to reduce one of the dimensions, you also getting some space to find that bind button and not trying to find it inside the cables

5. Battery, it's also possible to put connector outside of the box if you mind a bigger connector. In some cases it would be even better. Mine battery is this one

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJEcxgF

This one allowed me to play about 15 minutes with a car with 4 buggy motors (that red skyline video)

[gyenesvi]

The receiver looks like this, and is 11 x 25 mm size. How does that compare to the one in RC Deck?

One thing about the bind button, I am guessing that binding might need to done more often than one would think, for example if the transmitter is used with other models or one buys two RC decks. I guess then it will always need to be rebound to the one being used. So you might be useful to have that button on the outside, though not sure how that could be done.

The split cable is interesting, so then no stacking is needed, but one FP plug still needs to handle the amps of two motors. Maybe it can better do so when they are not stacked though.

Thanks for the info on the battery!

Edited April 14 by gyenesvi

[NoEXIST]

2 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

The receiver looks like this, and is 11 x 25 mm size. How does that compare to the one in RC Deck?

Uh, you mean this one, this one is bigger than I could fit. For this receiver I can suggest removing receiver from Deck at all. We came out with @Lixander to just remove receiver, so there's more empty space inside the brick, and connect external receiver to ESC's through ports i invented for servos. However, next step for me is making this exact brick, but one stud shorter.

 

2 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

One thing about the bind button, I am guessing that binding might need to done more often than one would think, for example if the transmitter is used with other models or one buys two RC decks. I guess then it will always need to be rebound to the one being used. So you might be useful to have that button on the outside, though not sure how that could be done.

I'm now using mine transmitter with two different receivers, you don't need to rebind them, just once you connect the transmitter first time. Another use of this button is gyro setup if you do have gyro in receiver.

2 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

The split cable is interesting, so then no stacking is needed, but one FP plug still needs to handle the amps of two motors. Maybe it can better do so when they are not stacked though.

Don't want to speculate about that, but it works this was:)

[Lixander]

21 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

Uh, you mean this one, this one is bigger than I could fit. For this receiver I can suggest removing receiver from Deck at all. We came out with @Lixander to just remove receiver, so there's more empty space inside the brick, and connect external receiver to ESC's through ports i invented for servos. However, next step for me is making this exact brick, but one stud shorter.

Also, if anyone asks ”Then where the Geekservo would be connected if the servo port is occupied?”.

The Geekservo would be connected in this case to the receiver.

Edited April 15 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

1 hour ago, Lixander said:

Also, if anyone asks ”Then where the Geekservo would be connected if the servo port is occupied?”.

The Geekservo would be connected in this case to the receiver, or, if the 2nd port is free and can be used for servos as well, then the Geekservo could go in the 2nd servo port on the RC Deck.

First part is correct, but the second isn't really. In this case these ports just have to be connected to receiver to make 2 and 4 channel work(or maybe you can connect it differently) but all the servos might be connected to receiver. Mainly RCDeck becoming an ESC