[HELP] Technic Civic EK9

[Aquarius]

Hi

I’m making a civic type r which will get its thread once finished (90% done rn) and need some help: I’m making the engine bay, before I had 2 L motors in the back and a drive shaft going to the front wheels powering a differential, but in the pursuit of realism I now want to have a if not multiple L motors in the front of the car. However I need them to be geared up a fair bit, would like a diff and preferably not take too much space because I still need to fit a steering rack and engine cover etc. Please suggest things and ask for more photos if needed, ty!

 

[1gor]

Perhaps you can gear it up using 40 tooth gear from L-motor to 24tooth with clutch gear on axle...

[Aquarius]

Problem is I can’t hit the firewall :/

[2GodBDGlory]

Well, my analysis is that in order to avoid hitting the firewall, the biggest possible driver gear is a 24T, if you can find a way to make the stud where its teeth rub something else, like a bush. If you want a differential in there, the smallest ring gear you can have is also going to be 24T, since I don't see how you can reverse the 24/16T one in that space without the 24T side rubbing the motor. Therefore, the fastest gearing you can get using a differential is 1:1, with a 24T gear meshing with another 24T gear on the differential. If you get rid of the differential, though, you have the option of moving the motor closer to the axle and gearing up with either 20:12 or 24:8. Either way, you could potentially put a second L motor on the front of the axle, though you may need the space for something else, and the torque may not be necessary with the low 1:1 ratio, at least.

[Jurss]

The main issue I see here is, that there is no bracing at the clutch gear now. It is on cars right side, but not on the left, where all load on gear is planned.

Maybe put drive motor longitudal, and that servo for steering more in front

[Aquarius]

Thanks for the replies

After trying out no diff I had this chain of thoughts:

I can’t use the 24 tooth side of the diff because gearing up will be impossible so I’ll use the 16; I can move the motor up to fit the 24 tooth side under the motor because it dips in a little bit (see photo); I can then gear up too the 16 tooth.

Turns out it worked, now I need to find a way of gearing up.

ty again.

Edited April 8, 2022 by Aquarius

[2GodBDGlory]

The ideal solution would be to use a 36T gear as the driver, because it's very close to being the right size to mesh with the 16T size in that combination. You'll have two problems with that, though. First, it'll make a hole in your firewall, but it looks like it wouldn't be too hard to remove the vertical 5L beam in it, and at least the gear is generally black, so it wouldn't stand out too much. Second, because of its double-bevel profile, it doesn't mesh properly with that side of the differential, though if you can find a way to offset it by somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 studs it should work. Another issue with the current setup is that you don't have any great ways to brace that side of the differential, since its right next to the CV joint. Moving it back a little would be great, but then I think the 24T side would interfere with the motor, and the firewall would require a more extensive rebuild to fit the 36T gear. Sadly, nothing is looking simple about the process...

[Aquarius]

Fear not I have come up with a solution

Originally I was going to mesh the 20 tooth shown in the photo with a 16t connected to a 20t which would mesh with the 16t of the diff (sorry if you got nothing there it doesn’t rly matter lol), but that scraped against the alleged diff housing, so I came up with this very simple (not) system: the 20t shown in all pictures meshes with a 12t under the motor which is connected to a 20t, which meshes with and 8t which finally meshes with the 16t diff housing. Just check the pictures lmao.

I’d like to thank everyone for giving ideas and stuff and helping me to fix this problem, I’m so happy I managed to fit the diff .

I will post the finished model at some point.

tysm

Edited April 8, 2022 by Aquarius

[2GodBDGlory]

Hmm, I'd recommend checking if that 8T will actually mesh with the 16T on the differential correctly. The new style of 8T gear won't really work, because of the extra bumps on the side, and the old style still can't mesh completely. Maybe you can get something to work, but I'm a bit worried about that solution.

Here's an alternate option, with a few different gearing options. I've got an 8T gear behind the 28T one, but you could go 20:12 or 16:16 there if you wanted. The only issues I can see are that it might be difficult to brace well, and you may not quite have room to fit the 28T gear without infringing on firewall space.

[Aquarius]

In testing it seemed to work well enough, the only thing that might change in the real world is the differential having odd teeth (so that meshing is annoying), i dont own one rn so i can’t say XD. The problem with your proposition is  obviously that it intrudes on the firewall, which i dont really want to make a hole in. If someone has a diff and can say if the 8t meshes well with it that would be great!

[2GodBDGlory]

4 hours ago, Aquarius said:

In testing it seemed to work well enough, the only thing that might change in the real world is the differential having odd teeth (so that meshing is annoying), i dont own one rn so i can’t say XD. The problem with your proposition is  obviously that it intrudes on the firewall, which i dont really want to make a hole in. If someone has a diff and can say if the 8t meshes well with it that would be great!

Well, in my testing with the differential, the 8T would kind of mesh, but it would have to be pushed back farther than the half stud it should theoretically be, which would make bracing it hard and likely cause it to skip because it wouldn't engage fully. Another idea could be to use the idea I put above, but instead of using the 28T gear, use a 16T gear and a chain to drive the 24T side of the differential. That would leave the firewall intact, but would end up giving you less total gear reduction. (If you happen to have the new non-beveled 20T gear it would help, but I don't think many people do yet)

[Scoar Sonander]

I personally would use the new red and grey diffs; those can lead to some really nice gear ups and downs. Seeing as you are using the old pf l motors, I would gear them up 1:1.666 first (or 1:3), then use a 24 tooth to connect semi-diagonally to the red diff. I'll see if I can take some pics.