Eurobricks Vassals
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About Aquarius

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    Rally car

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    Trains, Technic cars


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  1. In testing it seemed to work well enough, the only thing that might change in the real world is the differential having odd teeth (so that meshing is annoying), i dont own one rn so i can’t say XD. The problem with your proposition is obviously that it intrudes on the firewall, which i dont really want to make a hole in. If someone has a diff and can say if the 8t meshes well with it that would be great!
  2. Fear not I have come up with a solution Originally I was going to mesh the 20 tooth shown in the photo with a 16t connected to a 20t which would mesh with the 16t of the diff (sorry if you got nothing there it doesn’t rly matter lol), but that scraped against the alleged diff housing, so I came up with this very simple (not) system: the 20t shown in all pictures meshes with a 12t under the motor which is connected to a 20t, which meshes with and 8t which finally meshes with the 16t diff housing. Just check the pictures lmao. I’d like to thank everyone for giving ideas and stuff and helping me to fix this problem, I’m so happy I managed to fit the diff . I will post the finished model at some point. tysm
  3. Thanks for the replies After trying out no diff I had this chain of thoughts: I can’t use the 24 tooth side of the diff because gearing up will be impossible so I’ll use the 16; I can move the motor up to fit the 24 tooth side under the motor because it dips in a little bit (see photo); I can then gear up too the 16 tooth. Turns out it worked, now I need to find a way of gearing up. ty again.
  4. Problem is I can’t hit the firewall :/
  5. Hi I’m making a civic type r which will get its thread once finished (90% done rn) and need some help: I’m making the engine bay, before I had 2 L motors in the back and a drive shaft going to the front wheels powering a differential, but in the pursuit of realism I now want to have a if not multiple L motors in the front of the car. However I need them to be geared up a fair bit, would like a diff and preferably not take too much space because I still need to fit a steering rack and engine cover etc. Please suggest things and ask for more photos if needed, ty!
  6. It does but since suspension is so hard I a) doubt it’ll ever really go that far b) is that not realistic? Sure real cars may not touch the ground but when I see group b cars landing from jumps they do hug the ground a bit.
  7. -=- Update 2 -=- v Changes v > I’ve rearranged the steering so that the rack can go behind the diff, this was actually incredibly easy and allows me to put the engine 2 studs back, I think this is enough. > Took a bit of time to re-colour all of the grey pieces (that I could) to black because.. why not? There are still a few in grey but I’m not bothered, however I’m not sure if I’ll have enough to do that rear axle but that’s kinda on hold for the moment. > When I went to put the gear box back in I moved it 1 stud closer to the axle just because. I really want to make it 6 speed now because there’s no reason of going to this detail and scale if it’s not even 6 speed. Also the mounts are very much un finished. v Additions v > I re-added the engine so it’s technically not an addition but hey, I make my own rules . I actually geared down the engine input because the gearbox is geared in a way that means in the lowest gear it doesn’t have nearly enough torque to even move the motor. I want a flush underneath so I used universal links to connect it (also because I didn’t want too many gears) but I don’t think I’ve done a very good job in the front of connecting it as seen in photo 4, give me your suggestions preferably with common pieces in the replies . Also just out of curiosity how do you get on to the front page of eurobricks i.e. are there specifications?
  8. Aquarius

    [moc] DM&IR C-10 combination baggage/caboose

    Wow looks amazing! Very big scale but that’s not a bad thing, interesting use of sideways building keep it up
  9. Even with only one shock absorber it is really stiff. I doubt I’ll need to add another but thx for the suggestion
  10. Thanks for the replies, very nice :) I know how to use the model scaler apart from the part of draw on the measurements it’s seems a bit imprecise to have 2 dots on an image. I’ll try again later. With those suspension arms grey gear suggested I might use them in the back as currently it has loads of play, however I don’t really feel like rebuilding the entire front. Idk maybe I will be for now as I said in the disclaimer I’m not going to make it 100% accurate so although the motor is a bit too far for the front grill to fit nicely it’s not a massive problemo. I did try using a live axle cage thingy (bricklink part no 92910) but it didn’t have enough sturdy attachments. I do think moving the rack behind could be useful and I know I could do it so that miiiiiiiiight be done by next update but no guaranties. Anyway ty :)
  11. Aquarius

    [MOC] Sdkfz.251 ausf.D

    Wow, that looks really cool. Interesting to see wheels on the front and tracks on the back, especially with the rims overlapping each other. Could we have a video of it moving? Looks very capable with 2 xl. Anyway good job!
  12. Aquarius

    [MOC] The Blue Cottage

    I love it! Could we see the interior?
  13. -=- Update 1 -=- I’m not sure how I’m gonna carry on updating. Either I carry on this post with updates or I make a new one but I assume it’s better if I update this one so here we are. v Changes v > Firstly I saw how many people were saying it was too short or the proportions are off so I’m definitely making it longer for a start. Still need to completely do sariels model scaler I’m a bit confused with the second part (Draw the known dimension?). > Previously I used a weird design to steer the wheels as seen in the original photo no 4. However this was very flimsy and unprofessional. I’m not using a 3l axle with stopper with a stud (bricklink part no 6587) which fits almost perfectly in a 6l link. > I moved the engine back 1 stud and I realize that it’s meant to be in between the wheels but there’s no way I’m ever getting it there and anyways it’s out of the car rn so that I can re route the drive shaft so it’ll probably get moved around a lot. v Additions v > Since it’s going to be a lot bigger I thought I may as well add a gear box. I only have 2 shifting pieces (bricklink part no 18947) so it’s only 4 speed. I may make it 6 if I buy another but for now it’s 4. Btw it’s dgustsfsson13’s design. Also small disclaimer I want to live up to the standard and do justice to this car but I’m not going to make everything 100% to proportion and exactly authentic. I’ve never built a decently proportional car and I am going to do some research into scaling and I’ll try my best to make it authentic but you’re gonna get a grey gear build (I like the rx-7 a lot btw ). Anyway hope you like it :)
  14. I feel like people are taking this too seriously. I love the rx-7 in fact it’s my favorite car but I do have to say that the veil side kit looks bad and using any other engine than rotary will get a lot of people mad, but at the end of the day, we are talking about Lego. People are taking this too seriously, calm down a bit. _artemshulgin_ can do what ever they want with Lego, and it’s not for us to decide. Same goes for posting images. Unless it’s harming the server, it doesn’t matter how this guy posts images. Please think before posting something because it is so easy to get the wrong end of the stick on the internet.