42110 - Land Rover Defender - MODs and Improvements

[thekoRngear]

3 hours ago, Spagboll said:

Really liking this simpler design.

Do you have a build of it anywhere ?

Glad to see someone [finally] recognized it. The model is now turned into a Jeep Bruiser MOC by Gyenesvi.

Howevr, I have bought a 2nd Land Rover which has the exact front 2 speed gearbox with Hi/Lo and DNR Mode Minus the rear gearbox that the original design has. The build is really simple in that you just don't have to create alternate/other paths that lead the centre diff to the front gearbox. As for the other fixes, they are changed to have even better solutions. For example, I use 2x red shock absorbers [each side] on the front. The tailgate has even better solution which if you want I can show you in picture. The chassis's rigidity is made even more sturdier with symmetricalness which is a bit complex specially on the steering area [ middle side].

Used the jb70 steering mod [it is inside his pimp up my Land Rover mod] to have better steering with ackerman geometry.

The pics that you see are over 2 year's old. I have now become more experienced builder while still learning and exploring lots of things. 

Edited October 28, 2022 by thekoRngear

[Spagboll]

7 hours ago, thekoRngear said:

Glad to see someone [finally] recognized it. The model is now turned into a Jeep Bruiser MOC by Gyenesvi.

Howevr, I have bought a 2nd Land Rover which has the exact front 2 speed gearbox with Hi/Lo and DNR Mode Minus the rear gearbox that the original design has. The build is really simple in that you just don't have to create alternate/other paths that lead the centre diff to the front gearbox. As for the other fixes, they are changed to have even better solutions. For example, I use 2x red shock absorbers [each side] on the front. The tailgate has even better solution which if you want I can show you in picture. The chassis's rigidity is made even more sturdier with symmetricalness which is a bit complex specially on the steering area [ middle side].

Used the jb70 steering mod [it is inside his pimp up my Land Rover mod] to have better steering with ackerman geometry.

The pics that you see are over 2 year's old. I have now become more experienced builder while still learning and exploring lots of things. 

I'm only just starting again after a few decades away from it all. I've already done such things like suspension etc but I'm one for form and not function, don't really care for the "playability" just more for detail and simplicity. Already stripped out the gearing on one of my Landy's just can't figure out where to go then found yours and it's just what I need. So any more detailed pics would be very grateful and for your self proclaimed "noob" at the time I'd say job well done !!

[thekoRngear]

@Spagboll 🙏🏻
I think for form over function, the Defender does an amazing job; it simply strikes a perfect balance between function and form. Keep the body shell intact, do as much tweaks and mods you like to do on its chassis until you are pleased- it still looks and feels good without any significant changes to the display.

i. Since the model is built I cannot show you the inner chassis changes that I have made through. Yes, I had made a video of the chassis just when I thought I had done enough only to realize and make further refinements to the chassis lol. The final shape was not recorded. The only thing about the chassis that might be noteworthy to you is the drivetrain. I have took a photo of the bottom part of the car and you will see how much it is kept as possibly close as to the main drivetrain. Just keep in mind [from the original instructions] you will keep the 8t/24t gearing in the very back [with the rear diff] intact. Then, when you are installing the center diff [step 75] you are skipping the whole rear gearbox thing and also the rubber band/gear shifting thing and continue from thereon. And lastly, when you are done building the front gearbox, you will replace the red clutch gear [at step #220] from the front part of it [that bunch of 16t cogs that get connected to the Engine] with a 16t regular gear. Since the universal joints are omitted, it should not be hard for you to figure out which yellow and red axles are to be excluded.

Howevr, it has its sacrifice. In the original model, if you keep either of the gear levers in the central console, the Engine pistons won't move. The jeep is in neutral mode. With a regular 16t gear placed in, it is not possible to have the neutral mode in such way. You have to keep both the sticks in the middle.
Okay, seems complicated? If so, let me have a week or two. I have planned to take the body shell out of my Defender. I will have some photos of the chassis. It should give you clearer details.

In my first mod which you referred to I have used a 4 speed H-shaped gearbox from Dgustafsson [based on Sariel]. The Defender chassis actually could not hold it very well due to its over-dependence on so many different connectors and 1x2 beams. At 4th speed the engine pistons would move too fast causing the half bushes and red bushes get out out of their place. That is why I decided to switch to a simple 2-speed gearbox and then after a careful observation [massive thanks to Racingbrick's 6+ min long video] I finally was able to learn how the gearbox works [almost 3 years after its release] and then it was relatively easy for me to figure out what to keep and what not.

ii. For the tailgate, I have kept the original building of the hinging mechanism [it is super tricky, the designers did amazing job]. See the pic below:

What I did : I replaced the 3l axle pin that connects to the 3l black bush pin at step 478 with a 4L axle so that the whole tailgate stays reasonably on the its axis because let's face it: the tailgate cannot keep the heavy Defender wheel when attached to it. It tends to bend/get slightly out and that looks bad IMO. Now, on the top, I have used that 3l axle pin which I removed in step 478 and added a DBG Technic pin connector #15100 so that it holds the tailgate from the upper side to the right part.

You see the place right beneath the rear seats? This time I have used 5x 5L LBG beams so they look covered [and peaceful]. 

iii. There are some other visual changes, look at the rear lights. Since I do not display my Sian as main model, I managed to get extra parts after building a MOC out of it. How do you like the red lights?

Also, I have added 4 (2x on each side) exhausts in the bottom. They IMO don't look bad.

One thing that bothered me always is the ladder's position in the Defender. I have changed its position too. Now they look aligned [on both sides]

 

Finally, how's the black accent [the black "stripe" throughout the body]? Also, I have replaced some olive green 1x2 and 2x4 beams with black ones near the rear fender. I guess they look Not Bad. Your impression is important.

A bonus: the white beam beneath the dashboard that has the Defender sticker is lousy. It sorta hangs due to poor support. I have made it sturdier. Luckily I have taken a photo of it when building. Look at the picture and you can figure it yourself.

If you continue to take a look at the pics, you might discover even further little tweaks which I cannot keep track of.

 

Edited October 29, 2022 by thekoRngear

[TexasEngineer454]

Greetings All, 

 

I wanted to share my version of the 42110 Land Rover. I kept most of the body intact and used maybe half of the original drive-train. Everything else is MOC. I used parts from 42124 and 9620R to finish the RC swap.

MODS 

-1 PF L motor runs the steering

-2 PF L motors run the AWD system (1 to the front and 1 to the rear)

-1 PF M motor runs the winch

-Fully independent All Wheel Drive

-Added tow hitch to pull the trailer I built (I'm open to better designs for a hitch???)

-Lego technic 4 port HUB programmed through BrickController2 working with XBOX controller

-Swapped original tires for 94.3x37mm (purchased used from local LEGO re-sale store)

 

A few items I have left to finish 100%

-Redesign front suspension: too much sag, larger tires scrub against fenders at full turn when compressed or off camber side-to-side

-Install differentials: the Rover has a solid axle in the center fed to each tire (sorry no underside shot) as the differentials I have kept popping loose when crawling over obstacles. Currently have 12 tooth bevel gear on the motor into a 20 tooth gear on the drive axles. This seems to give the best speed to torque ratio. 

-Redesign trailer hitch: Does anyone have a good design that offers side-to-side as well as arch movement? 

 

 

Fixed the picture links. Thanks to @pleegwat and @2GodBDGlory

Edited April 25, 2023 by TexasEngineer454

[pleegwat]

4 hours ago, TexasEngineer454 said:

I am fairly new to this site, what's the trick to upload multiple photos? 

Upload is intended for avatars only. Use an external image hosting site for posting images.

[2GodBDGlory]

34 minutes ago, pleegwat said:

Upload is intended for avatars only. Use an external image hosting site for posting images.

Bricksafe is the one most of us use, and it's quite convenient

[Customlego]

On 7/24/2020 at 8:09 AM, Cumulonimbus said:

I managed to fit the necessary mechanisms inside the 42110 body and the image below shows the range of movement:

 

how did you lift it