TexasEngineer454

Decided to post an open discussion looking for ideas for your MOC trailers. I am currently working on my fleet of Technic RC vehicles and trying to find the best trailer design. I have gotten my MOC 42110 pretty much geared to where I want it and it's capable of some mild crawling and towing. So far the issues I'm running into are the coupler for the hitch and the trailer axles. I'm leaning towards a single axle now but I'd rather use a walking beam design. Any ideas you all have would be greatly appreciated!

What is skid steer? I see that you ran 2 separate drive lines for each side of the vehicle? I'm very interested in how this works in regard to steering and turning radius.

This turned out awesome! Great build! This build inspired me to start my own 6x6 RC vehicle and I had a few questions for you. What is the gear ratio coming from your drive motor? Any issue with not using differentials on the axles?

Awesome work! The dual steer axles are great! Is it a single servo to steer both front/rear axles?

I assumed it was geared "UP" but maybe I'm mis-understanding how we explain UP versus Down when discussing geared differentials. Either way, I'm still very curious what the gear ratio is for this piece.

Just curious, what's the gear ratio for this style of differential? Based on the size and shape I have to assume it's geared up (small gear on input axle to larger gear on drive axle).

I've been re-reading through this thread as I've been doing some testing with my hubs and motors recently. Does anyone have, or know where I could find a comprehensive list of the Powered Up pre-set controls for the various sets? What I mean by this is, I know for the 42124 set that the A port is the drive control and the B port is the steering control. I have been using this as a test base for some of my MOC variations and using the BrickController2 and a BT remote for more controlled drive testing. If we had a list of the various sets and the correct ports for each that maybe immensely helpful to those who just want to use the app "as is" for a testing base.

Was trying to control multiple PU motors with just my smartphone for my Landrover MOC. But the coding issues and the lack of precise control made it almost impossible to drive. Brickcontroller seems to be easier to use and interface with my xbox remote. I'm just starting to learn more about the PU hubs and motors. I'm not as familiar with buzzwizz and it seems it's not as easily available in the US anyways.

THanks @Andman I found that thread after posting here. Unfortunately I don't think I can get the type of controls I need out of the PU app. Back to using Brickcontroller and an old XBOX remote for me.

Resurrecting an old thread: Has anyone used this app since the updates? I'm trying to program my controller for my MOC and the updates have changed the blocks around quite a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I like it. The 42124 set had been one of my favorites and I really enjoy the C+ sets so this looks to be a good addition. Anyone have an accurate estimate on when the release maybe? And the price?

I just looked through your photos on Bricksafe and noticed the view with the top off. Is this a standard design to have a removable top? I agree with sacrificing the 4WD system in order to have a more "original" look to the finished MOC. I had to choose to remove all of the interior from my 42110 Defender in order to fit the motors, battery hub, and other driveline features.

Great work! Any shots of how you mounted the motors and connected them to the drivetrain?

I say this as the current MOC @Teo LEGO Technic is working on is based on a 6x6 drivetrain. With an independent front suspension and solid rear axles you could more easily tackle off camber climbing. The geometry of the front axle would be more complicated and the clearance would be limited, but the ability to approach obstacles at different angles is better for this type of build. Both types of front axles have their benefits and cons. Either way I'm eager to see the completed vehicle!

This looks like a great solution. How does it do with turning the wheels under load though? I'd imagine this would actually hold better than the ball end joints.