Oracid - Home made, 3D print, custom parts

[oracid]

I have got a 3D printer to create original pieces. This is a French printer, the Dagoma Discovery200. This printer cost 400 € and is at the moment very popular in France.

My goal is to show that we can produce parts of acceptable quality for a very low cost. For example, below small parts cost about € 0.06 and large about € 0.25

My pieces do not satisfy me completely, but as soon as possible, I'll post them on http://www.thingiverse.com/

At the moment, 3D printed parts absolutely not rival those of origin. Nevertheless, an overall movement can create impulse that would make LEGO to increase and supplement its offer.

But I do not doubt that in a few years the quality will be there. I think we have already to be prepared.

In the world of robotics, the one that interests me, we cannot wait. Robotics revolution has already begun.

Here I show you parts used for assembly, not for torque.

Edited July 4, 2016 by oracid

[Driftworks]

I think efferman is doing the same thing more complex pieces for the mature group of lego builders would be amazing!

[oracid]

I think efferman is doing the same thing more complex pieces for the mature group of lego builders would be amazing!

I know the Efferman parts of course and I already ordered somes. Their design and quality are very good.

My approach is different because as indicated by the title of this thread, I make the parts myself, at home, with my printer.

The quality is lower, but the cost is significantly lower.

[Driftworks]

What makes the quality lower the printer or the used plastic blueprint or perhaps a combination of all?

Edited July 4, 2016 by Driftworks

[MarcoUbtz]

What makes the quality lower the printer or the used plastic blueprint or perhaps a combination of all?

The quality depends mainly on the production process, the FDM process is good for the production of Lego pieces , but it takes a bit ' of work to get good results

Edited July 4, 2016 by MarcoUbtz

[SevenStuds]

Very nice beam designs Oracid! The one on the left with alternating pin holes looks very useful.

What makes the quality lower the printer or the used plastic blueprint or perhaps a combination of all?

The printer and the technology which it uses. Most home printers work with an extrusion of hot plastic (FFF/FDM). They are priced from a few hundred euros, whereas a professional printer (like the ones used by Shapeways) can start at €50 000. These use either a bed of very fine powder or a tank of resin which is cured by precision lasers (SLA or SLA). For now, home printers are affordable and suitable mainly for testing prints. Once you're happy with a design, you can choose to send the file off for high res production in either plastic, porcelain, metal, etc.

[Kelkschiz]

I know the Efferman parts of course and I already ordered somes. Their design and quality are very good.

My approach is different because as indicated by the title of this thread, I make the parts myself, at home, with my printer.

The quality is lower, but the cost is significantly lower.

Have you factored in all the costs like purchase of the printer and man hours?

[Tommy Styrvoky]

This makes me tempted to design some different tracks for the current sprockets, maybe with a dual extruder, you could have the rubber tracks for your stair climber.

[Driftworks]

Very nice beam designs Oracid! The one on the left with alternating pin holes looks very useful.

The printer and the technology which it uses. Most home printers work with an extrusion of hot plastic (FFF/FDM). They are priced from a few hundred euros, whereas a professional printer (like the ones used by Shapeways) can start at €50 000. These use either a bed of very fine powder or a tank of resin which is cured by precision lasers (SLA or SLA). For now, home printers are affordable and suitable mainly for testing prints. Once you're happy with a design, you can choose to send the file off for high res production in either plastic, porcelain, metal, etc.

Thanks alot i have a clearer view how this process works.

[dr_spock]

Have you factored in all the costs like purchase of the printer and man hours?

I use my local public library for inexpensive 3D printing. It costed me about 0.17 euros to print a thin 13L Technic liftarm. The library's policy won't permit printing of weapons, sex toys, etc. There are some advantages to have your own 3D printer versus using an outside 3D printing service.

[offroadcreations]

Those look like some pretty useful, high quality parts! Wouldn't the beams with holes on all four sides (the 2nd and 4th ones from the left) be weaker though?

[Tommy Styrvoky]

I modeled up a basic track in Autodesk 123D design, based on the real specifications for lego sprockets. I think I got the tolerances correct between the track pin, and clip. I measured differences between the two with a digital caliper, and found differences of approximately .15mm between parts for movement. This model could be modified for any type of design, but I have yet to test it, as I lack a 3D printer.... though I will get one sometime. My guess is that some parts may have to be tweaked to work( I think I made the distance between the track pin and connector too small ) , as the tolerances may be too high for a desktop printer, and It probably need more reinforcement in some areas.

File:https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2H134SK3lSSd2l0MjI2a1BoY1U/view?usp=sharing

T84E1 like Track model for Lego sprockets by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

T84E1 like Track model for Lego sprockets by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

T84E1 like Track model for Lego sprockets by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

[MarcoUbtz]

I modeled up a basic track in Autodesk 123D design, based on the real specifications for lego sprockets. I think I got the tolerances correct between the track pin, and clip. I measured differences between the two with a digital caliper, and found differences of approximately .15mm between parts for movement. This model could be modified for any type of design, but I have yet to test it, as I lack a 3D printer.... though I will get one sometime. My guess is that some parts may have to be tweaked to work( I think I made the distance between the track pin and connector too small ) , as the tolerances may be too high for a desktop printer, and It probably need more reinforcement in some areas.

File:https://drive.google...iew?usp=sharing

I can test your part with my printer and give you feedback on tolerances

[oracid]

Here is my 3D printer, http://www.dagoma.fr/en/produit/imprimante-discovery200/

The material I use is the PLA, http://www.dagoma.fr/en/categorie-produit/fil/octofiber/

My 3D printer is very basic and uses the FDM technology.

My software is 123D Design, http://www.123dapp.com/design

What I want to show is that today we can print his parts at home with his printer for a very low cost. Parts quality is not excellent, but things will get better quickly.

@ Driftworks..I think what makes the quality of a printer is first precision.

@ Kelkschiz. It is the printer software, CuraByDagoma who determines the price of the parts based on the price of the thread. The purchase of the printer, working hours and electricity costs are not taken into account.

@Tommy Styrvoky. Yes, I'll probably quickly make rubber pads for LEGO tracks, and perhaps new track elements. This is my priority. I am waiting for rubber thread. Thank you for your files, I will study them.

@dr_spock. What do you mean by "local public library"

Edited July 5, 2016 by oracid

[dr_spock]

@dr_spock. What do you mean by "local public library"

My town has a "bibliothèque publique" that offers 3D printing to library card holders. They have a couple Makerbot printers. My property taxes subsidize them. I send them files to print and drop by to pick up the print job in a few days. It is a cheaper option than Shapeways. I don't print enough to justify my own printer at this time. I still have to spend the man hours creating the thing in 123D and checking with Makerbot Desktop before sending the file. Whether it printed correctly or not, I have to pay for the print time used. I think having your own printer is better as nobody else would see your mess ups.

[Tommy Styrvoky]

Here's another track of the small variant with a simple design, though commonly found on modern vehicles. Here are the .123dx files for both the large and small ones, as you use the same program, it would be easier to modify the pads/track.

Small Track

Large Track

Lego small track with rubber pad by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

Lego small track with rubber pad by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr

[oracid]

Thank you Tommy for sanding 123D files, that is far better than stl.

I will recevied my Flex thread very soon, I hope

To day, I will try to make a draft of my Flex track part.

So you can see.

Edited July 7, 2016 by oracid

[oracid]

Here is a shoe draft for LEGO track link.

[oracid]

I have printed my first track shoe. Here is the result.

I'm not really satisfied because the PolyFlex is quite slippery and has not the effectiveness of the window joint.

The weight is 1.5 g. I'll try to make it thinnest.

Edited July 9, 2016 by oracid

[Tommy Styrvoky]

I think the tread will have issues because of how it overlaps the edge,that will limit the type of suspension you can use. Also maybe change the tread profile for better grip. Maybe try using Ninjaflex as a rubber material.

Edited July 9, 2016 by Tommy Styrvoky

[oracid]

I have already ordered NinjaFlex. I am waiting for it.

The PolyFlex will be useful for making flexible beams, shame he's black.

For the overlaps of the edge I think I understand what you mean but can you be more specific. I can reduce the recovery but not much.

Have you a better idea?

[MarcoUbtz]

for better grip maybe you can try printing two sections to silicone injection molding

[oracid]

for better grip maybe you can try printing two sections to silicone injection molding

Thank you for this very good link.