42213 Ford Bronco SUV

[Zerobricks]

6 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Tried making both axles so they had 4L CV joints with a female CV joint on both ends of each axle, but the female CV joint was preventing the wishbones from pivoting, and even though I used some recessed wheels, it was still 1L too wide on either side, for the bodywork.

I was hoping to keep the engine, but have steering, diff, and independent suspension on both axles..

Use the 6L suspension arms from the Senna creator build. They are thinner and will give more space to the CVs 

[SNIPE]

I'll try that then, might have to upscale the bodywork but its way easier than up-scaling 42145 helicopter.

I luckily have the MP4/4 set, just dismantled. I also have 4 of the ball joints but the new mould where they are shiny not matte.

Update:

The problem is, the wishbones catch if we just brace them with say, a 3L beam on each side so I had to have rounded points which also had a pinhole and which allowed the CV joint to be 1L infront of the pivot point , but I also need space for the differential to be right up close AND I need points for the driveshaft gear, steering, and suspension.

Tricky but maybe possibleMy brain is mush today's so ill try again tomorrow.

 

Edited August 24, 2025 by SNIPE

[Zerobricks]

Or just have no diff, much easier. 

[Stereo]

3167 beam might be usable?  I don't know how wide you want the gap, but two of them with a pin-pinhole-pin part connecting them (where the diff bevel gear goes) would fit compactly around the diff.

 

[edit] oh right, the suspension arms have a 1l axle as the connection point.  That's a bit awkward to work with.  Maybe you could use 32054 to extend them so you have space for the diff gear, springs should be stronger than their friction.

Edited August 24, 2025 by Stereo

[Jurss]

8 hours ago, SNIPE said:

Tricky but maybe possibleMy brain is mush today's so ill try again tomorrow.

Didn't tried, but 4L "high" version could be possible, if ballpins are connected with lipstick part.

[SNIPE]

21 hours ago, Jurss said:

Didn't tried, but 4L "high" version could be possible, if ballpins are connected with lipstick part.

this wouldn't fit inside of the rims from the creator expert porche 9¹1

[Jurss]

Yes, that's true. Even 4L version. 

Then only legal connection for shock absorber would be somehow trough that axle end, with some lever attached to it.

Anyway, You won't get correct cv-joint connection for this setup.

[SNIPE]

I found a compact way to brace these wishbones, using part 98577, I put these all the way on the wishbones axles but they would fit into the technic system better by using half bushes on the axles first.

But I forgot that there's no way to mount the shocks to these wishbones, so now I'm back to □1.

The 5L wishbones and 6L wishbones will not work either for the same reason as the new 3L wishbones don't work.

[Celeri]

On my side, I have been trying to add a gearbox on this model : I managed to have a working small 2-ratio in the middle of the chassis but since induces a 2-stud gap (input and output not on the same axle), I had to use the existing gear column behind de seats... thus losing the steering solution of the model. For now, I have not found any solution to have a HoG anywhere else (holes in the roof are not usable for this, I think).

Has anyone else worked on a gearbox for this model yet?

[leonema]

does anyone have built it in ldd or stud.io and so can share the file?

tks

[Shyatzu]

I built the LEGO Bronco last weekend and had an issue with the hood alignment. Ended up double-checking step 126 and realized one of the pins wasn't pushed in all the way—it made a huge difference. The turning radius isn’t great either, but I think that’s just due to how the steering is set up on this model. Still a fun build overall.

Edited November 12, 2025 by Shyatzu

[Paul B Technic]

Review of the 8865 C Model.

 

https://paulbtechnic.blogspot.com/2025/12/lego-technic-42213-c-model-8865.html

[anyUser]

I'd like to ask about your play experience with the car:
When I push mine forward and then do a maximum steering angle to turn I always notice a considerable increase in friction from the push.

Did anybody else notice this? It was not reported in any of the most prominent reviews.

My guess: there is a 7M beam with four 16tooth gear as a transmission of the rear steering towards the front. The drive shaft passes through of of the gears. When steering, this beam might twist and thus partially lead to increased friction. Yet I haven't taken the car apart to check.

[Stereo]

I think it's because of the red gears that float on the driveshaft, if you hold maximum steering, those are pressed against the axles and increase friction a lot. (both within the gear and the beams it passes through in front/behind)

Zero Ackermann also contributes though, the front tires are scrubbing quite a bit if it's on a smooth floor.

Edited Saturday at 02:51 PM by Stereo

[Jundis]

Just tested it and same here.

I think it's not the 7L beam but the red 16t gear pressing on the driving axle passing through it. If you turn hard enough you can even stop the rear wheels by the amount of friction loaded onto this axle.  

[anyUser]

On 1/24/2026 at 3:49 PM, Stereo said:

I think it's because of the red gears that float on the driveshaft, if you hold maximum steering, those are pressed against the axles and increase friction a lot. (both within the gear and the beams it passes through in front/behind)

 

On 1/24/2026 at 3:50 PM, Jundis said:

Just tested it and same here.

I think it's not the 7L beam but the red 16t gear pressing on the driving axle passing through it. If you turn hard enough you can even stop the rear wheels by the amount of friction loaded onto this axle.  

Thanks for checking and confirmation.
What I tried so far: use a grey 16teeth gear 6542b instead of the red one on the axle that connects the rear axle with the fake engine. (If I remember correctly there was some finding that those have less friction in gear boxes.) This does not improve on the situation.

I think it those vertical beams (steps 43, 48, and 52) are not secured sufficiently for twisting. If the grey 7M from step 43 could be replaced by {something} where the drivetrain can freely pass (e.g. without hole) it might improve.
 

[Jundis]

An inversed setup would work way better:

Driving through the gears and a steering axle in between them.

I'm pretty sure, I've already seen this setup in other Lego models, but not sure in which one exactly.