HydroWorld Outlook Posted June 26 Posted June 26 6 minutes ago, Danil said: ... Yeah, I know. It's a lot of math. But hey, that's engineering! Quote
braders2 Posted Sunday at 01:23 PM Posted Sunday at 01:23 PM Hi everyone, Â I'm planning to upgrade my Toyota Supra MK4 with Buggy Motors, and I'd like to buy a reliable setup right from the start. Â I'd like to ask those of you who have experience with this kind of build: which brand of Buggy Motors and which remote controller/hub would you recommend? I'm looking for something dependable, with a stable connection and good overall performance. Â If you have any recommendations for specific brands or models, I'd really appreciate your advice. I'd also be interested to hear about your experiences and if there are any products I should avoid. Â Thanks in advance for your help! Quote
1gor Posted Sunday at 02:52 PM Posted Sunday at 02:52 PM 1 hour ago, braders2 said: Hi everyone, Â I'm planning to upgrade my Toyota Supra MK4 with Buggy Motors, and I'd like to buy a reliable setup right from the start. Â I'd like to ask those of you who have experience with this kind of build: which brand of Buggy Motors and which remote controller/hub would you recommend? I'm looking for something dependable, with a stable connection and good overall performance. Â If you have any recommendations for specific brands or models, I'd really appreciate your advice. I'd also be interested to hear about your experiences and if there are any products I should avoid. Â Thanks in advance for your help! BuWizz Quote
Timewhatistime Posted Sunday at 03:07 PM Posted Sunday at 03:07 PM On 6/26/2026 at 11:27 AM, HydroWorld Outlook said:  - Step Count: Unlike the original changeover cylinder, which had exactly 8 steps and two to four short continuous 45° groove waves: The red gear shifter drum piece has three slightly-longer continuous 40° groove waves You mean shorter (not longer), I guess...? Quote
Ngoc Nguyen Posted Tuesday at 02:08 PM Posted Tuesday at 02:08 PM (edited) I've always wondered how exactly the axle hole of this part stays legal. It's supposed to take in an axle, but the end of the axle hole is covered, so wouldn't that make the liftarm part thicker than 0.5 stud? Or does it bend outward slightly? Edited Tuesday at 02:11 PM by Ngoc Nguyen Quote
Stereo Posted Tuesday at 03:13 PM Posted Tuesday at 03:13 PM I think it's the same thickness as the usual end-tolerance of a piece - so where a regular "2L" axle is 15.8mm, or a 2x2 brick is 15.8mm square, a 2L stuck into this goes up to 15.9mm. Quote
aeh5040 Posted Tuesday at 08:06 PM Posted Tuesday at 08:06 PM (edited) 4 hours ago, Stereo said: I think it's the same thickness as the usual end-tolerance of a piece - so where a regular "2L" axle is 15.8mm, or a 2x2 brick is 15.8mm square, a 2L stuck into this goes up to 15.9mm. This sounds right. Also the axle itself has a rounded end, so the hole only needs to be full depth right near the centre. Still, it's somewhat miraculous that it works. I find the pin with bush similarly surprising. Edited Tuesday at 08:07 PM by aeh5040 Quote
R0Sch Posted Wednesday at 05:26 PM Posted Wednesday at 05:26 PM That's exactly what happens. The axles have rounded ends plus the lengths are just aproximations to full LEGO modules. The real part tolerances enable such assemblies in the first place. Quote
Zerobricks Posted Wednesday at 10:14 PM Posted Wednesday at 10:14 PM (edited) Indeed, the axles are rounded and there's also another important fact. All LEGO parts are usually 0,1 mm thinner from (almost - doesn't apply for height for studded parts) every direction from the ideal 8 mm grid raster. That means a normal pin is around 15,8 mm long. Same applies for beams which are actually even thinner from top to bottom dimension in order to be compatible with studded plates - especially the LEGO logo. Edited Wednesday at 10:18 PM by Zerobricks Quote
aeh5040 Posted yesterday at 01:05 AM Posted yesterday at 01:05 AM (edited) To expand on my comment about the pin with stop bush: consider the two parts that it joins together - an axle coming right upto, but not into, a pin hole. If the axle were a perfect cylinder literally just touching a cylindrical hole of the same diameter then it would be impossible to join them together - there would be no space for any material in the gap. The existence of this part rests entirely on the various tiny tolerances (small gaps, rounded axle end, recessed pin holes, cross shaped axle)! Even though Lego does some things we don't like, we shouldn't lose sight of the exquisite brilliance of designs like this. Edited yesterday at 01:06 AM by aeh5040 Quote
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