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Found 9 results

  1. Hello all, I'm trying to find a way to create a power/data coupling between train cars that can be connected/disconnected like the car coupling magnets. Has anyone done anything like this? Background: This is so that I can supply power and control to LED lights (and maybe other devices) in the cars being pulled behind the engine, which will provide the power and control unit (Arduino based MCU) I've tried using a micro USB magnetic connector, but they are too bulky and don't flex easily enough for this. I'd love to find out if anyone has engineered anything similar. Thanks in advance! Arlo
  2. Hello fellow train builders, I would like to share my most recent project theme; Lego Trains & Internet of Things. Basically, I make connected trains and train related stuff. My aim is not to be 100% realistic or copy existing real world trains. My goal is to bring Lego into the IoT movement, learn many great things along the way, and eventually help the next generations to get interested and pick up the necessary skills for a better world through technology. Let's call this STEM through Play.(STEM=science, technology, engineering, and mathematics. Sounds like a mouthful, huh? but that's what I want anyway ) Without further ado, here's what I have built so far; Automated Lego Railroad Crossing Lego Train Voice Controlled Lights via Amazon Echo Lego Train Controller App Please bear in mind that this project is new and under development. I welcome any sort of feedback and questions I will also update this thread but if you'd like to keep up, here's my website which aggregates all the social channels related to this project: Legongineer
  3. IMG_0560 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Hello, Here is my new MOC I named "No limits", It features Traxxas Titan 380 motor Tenergo 5000Mah 7.2V battery HobbyWing Quicrun ESC Futaba Standard Servo motor Custom CNC milled aluminum parts by Brick Machine Shope 3D printed 4bevel gear differential by kind Efferman :) FlySky remote + receiver When I first build this it had full independent suspension but it was melting the CVjoints and UJ's I was using so I settled with a pendular rear suspension for rigidity and a single spring independent suspension for the front. Overall the suspension works well on pavement as well as on loose dirt or gravel terrain. Effermans custom differential works very well and has never ground gears even after my brutal driving and the high RPM's it is spinning at. IMG_0557 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_0555 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The single spring front suspension really helps the performance because it basically allows one wheel to go up and the other down in the same motion much like a bogie but still allows up and down movement. One thing I am not happy about it is the HORRIBLE geometry since the top beams are monger then the bottom ones making it have a negative camber angle. The pendular rear suspension was the only choice since I dont have Effermans custom CV joint parts that would allow full independent suspension with drive. IMG_0558 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_0559 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I mounted the ESC and receiver up high to allow air flow to cool the parts and have easy access to them. The battery was mounted very low with only 2 plates protecting it from the ground kept the SOG really low so I could do full-throttle 90 degree turns without flipping over. Overall it performs VERY well and has not flipped over ever and has broken the Lego speed record by doing 32kph IMG_0586 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Hope you enjoy and please leave a vote on the poll on how you like the use of custom electronic parts.
  4. brebo Hi, I have launched a KickStarter (crowdfunding) campaign for a simple, low cost and intuitive system to invent and recycle electronics using Lego. Have a look [removed url] Let me know what you think. Thanks!
  5. Fragment of printed circuit board with microchip and SMD capacitor in a scale of 20:1. Microchip by vir-a-cocha, on Flickr
  6. Hi everyone! Just saw this "introduce yourself topic" so here I am. I'm lurking around for a few months now and so now and then I post my own creations. I discovered that this is a really cool forum with loads of people who are even more enthousiastic about Lego than I am. For me, it all started in 1985 when I got the 7727 train for my birthday. I had never been so happy! Since then I got some more Lego sets and when I grew older I switched to Technic and bought the classic 8868 and the 8880 for myself. Now I combine Lego with electronics: I'm building all kinds of robots and recently I've built a huge automated train track (see my posts). I don't use the NXT platform; it's quite expensive and I like to develop all the electronics myself. Since a few months I'm building a robot that's going to fetch me a beer from the fridge but there are some obstacles to take. I'll open a topic about that soon. Cheers and let's build cool things!
  7. Hello! My Rescue Helicopter (9396) is about to be delivered ( ) and I have this idea to put enormous amount of LEDs in it. I have a plan to use Arduino to program proper blinking sequence. I was thinking about mounting also 2 M-motors to motorize rotor and functions. I would love to control them via Arduino but I do not have an idea how to connect motors in a proper way. Has anyone ever done it? Thanks in advance for any tips!
  8. Since this is my first post I'll start by saying I've been a life-long fan of lego technic. I'm 29, and I recently got back into the hobby and I'm building a 16 unimog-wheel scale mobile construction crane with at least a 4, and probably 5 section telescopic boom (but it will only go straight up and down. A boom that large made of lego can't work in cantilever. . . at least not work well. Anyway, I have I think 22 m motors from various sets, and I've started testing the motors. Turns out I got a bad motor. I opened it up and the problem is an internal short in the capacitor. If I squeeze it or apply any pressure to it it shorts and the motor stops spinning (and the LED on the battery pack turns off indicating high-current draw protection). I'm handy with a soldering iron and I have small spare capacitors laying around, so I thought about replacing it. I also thought about trying to get a replacement from Lego (either through the internet or at a store). I was curious as to the RMA process through lego. Secondly, I thought about not replacing the capacitor at all, and just taking it out of the circuit. This made me wonder if this would give me IR V2 comparability if I did this to all of my m motors. I understand the importance of a capacitor for noise reduction, which doesn't seem important here since we're using infrared and not RF. I read this post on TechnicBricks a while ago: "The raw motor currently used in the LPF Medium motor internally contains a relatively large capacitor (1 uF) across each of the 3 motor coils. This is done by the motor manufacturer for noise reduction. We knew that this would be an issue with the new CMOS motor driver (DRV8833). Since it can source a very high inrush current the over current protection will kick in sooner (typically after 2,25 us with a current exceeding 3,3 A). At start up the motor driver will first charge the input capacitance. With 2 or more LPF Medium motors at the same output this can trigger the over current protection. It will repeatedly try to start the motors and you will only hear a singing noise. For many reasons we have been searching for a higher quality solution for the LPF Medium motor and we now have an approved new raw motor. It has better quality commutation and only 1nF across the terminal. An updated LPF Medium motor will be released during 2013." All of my M motors are definitely not the new versions, and I'm not sure I'll ever buy any more M motors (because I have enough) and the L motor is about to be purchasable by itself. I guess my question is regarding the above quote is are there 3 additional capacitors inside the motor itself? The capacitor that I can see when I remove the shroud is definitely in-line with the main power wires. It does not cross the poles. If I remove that capacitor will it negatively affect performance, and will it give me IF V2 compatibility? While I'm at it, here's a picture of my build station. And more random pictures of my build so far. Really just prototyping, although the wheel carrier design is finalized so I went ahead and built all 16 of them. http://sammorganphoto.smugmug.com/gallery/28096733_2sPxG6#!i=2374027084&k=HnHn3Pm