Rail Co

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  1. Hi, I have been away from this topic for a little and I am confused what the production is of these switches as of now. I am really interested in these if they come at a good price point! Thanks, -RailCo
  2. Hi DEAD1974, The all have their upsides and downsides so it is mainly what you prefer. I am going to give you all the things I think are good and bad about them and then let you decide what is best for you and what you enjoy. First I will talk about RC/PF Trains: Pros: You do not have to clean the rails because you don't have to worry about electricity conducting through them. They are very user friendly and use simple controls (they are good for kids). They are still readily available and fit in well with the whole "City" theme. You can use rechargeable batteries with them so you do not have to constantly buy batteries. Cons: A lot of the room is taken up by the battery box and receiver making it extremely difficult to make shunters/switchers, but it can be done. Rechargeable batteries can be expensive and you have to be able to get the battery box out every time you need to charge them unless you want to pay the hefty $50 for the official Lego pack. Also you have to be close enough with your remote control or you can lose connection (This I haven't had a problem with it just depends how big your layout is). Now to talk about 9v Pros: You can buy a motor, track and transformer and you are good to go, it's basically plug and play. You don't have to worry about changing batteries and have complete freedom of designing only around the motor and not bulky battery boxes and receivers. I have also never had to clean 9v track unless it was very well used. Cons: It is a lot more expensive, it is about $40 for a decent motor and anywhere from $2-$4 PER straight track. Also the wires are becoming brittle with age and the plastic coating wears a way causing short circuits. I don't know if you want me to discuss 12v or not. Hope this helps! -RailCo
  3. Hello guys, on eBay right now I am selling (2) 40223 Lego Snowglobes and (1) Lego 21109 Exo-Suit all are starting at $20 and are ending soon. If you are interested you can bid there! Here's the link to one of the Snowglobes you can find the others by looking at the seller page on the right side of the page (on desktop): http://www.ebay.com/itm/252877675971 Thanks! -RailCo
  4. See I don't want to use oil if possible because oil can soften plastic. -RailCo
  5. Hello Guys! I am trying to find grease in America that would be safe to use on Lego 12v motors (from the 80s) without paying horrendous prices. I am wondering if anyone has found suitable grease in the U.S. I have had a few people tell e about ROCO 10905 but that would be $20 to have it shipped over here from Europe. Thanks -RailCo
  6. After fiddling with it for about an hour. I was able to remove a gob of hair (nasty ) and realized that one of the axles was stuck and was able to free it. not that I have done this it sometimes moves slowly with a clicking noise and then will stop I am assuming something is rubbing up against the axle or gears to cause friction but I'm not sure. -RailCo
  7. Hello, I am reaching out to all 12v train users. I recently purchased and received a 12v train (the 7725). Unfortunately the motor is dead, I put it on the track after building the whole model and setting all the track up to find it not moving. At first I thought maybe if it hadn't run in awhile it would need a little help. That didn't work so I tried it by just connecting a wire to the motor itself and gently moved the wheels. The motor started to produce a light smoke so I immediately shut the power off and haven't tried anything since. I did see some life though at one point, it did move about 1/16 of a turn at best and I could hear it trying to move. If the seller is cooperative hopefully I can work something out with him. If not I was hoping many people on this forum could lead me in the right direction. Here is what I know about the motor: It looks to have been opened before. It is the version with the separate bogie pin. From what I can see there is some hair spun around the axles. I am wondering if I need to completely give up on the motor or if there is a way to fix or replace just the motor inside. I am really lost and would love any help that someone could give me. I looked for awhile but I haven't found a post about someone having the same problem as me. Even if someone has a broken lego casing for the motor but there electrics still work I could be interested in that as well. Thanks, -RailCo
  8. Ah, okay thank you. -RailCo
  9. Thank you all for the help with the traction tires and my question about the wheel spacing I was curious if anyone could explain this: He has the wheels right up against each other in his MOC. Thanks -RailCo
  10. Hello all, I have a quick question about the BBB medium wheels. I noticed many people have made MOCs with them and have been able to make the non-flanged wheel and the flanged wheels (i.e. an 0-6-0) be right next to each other. I am not sure how people did this because my non flanged wheel is the same depth as the flanged wheels. Also, I was wondering how people put traction tires on these wheels. Thanks! -RailCo
  11. dang I missed this... maybe another time. -RailCo
  12. I might actually steal one of these designs if you don't mind . Great work! -RailCo
  13. what are you looking to trade for? -RailCo
  14. Hello All, I am looking for 12v trains that are 100% complete along with track and transformers to start my 12v collection. I am in the U.S. so I have had a hard time finding any 12v trains for a decent price. Please comment here or PM me with information if you are willing to sell any Thanks, -Cameron Muir
  15. Hello! I have noticed recently that I can't buy any Lego from any other amazon site than my home country. I am curious why this is? Also since I cannot buy Lego internationally anymore from amazon, does anyone know of other shops from the UK or Europe that ship to the U.S. internationally they can recommend. All suggestions appreciated -RailCo