Wardancer

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About Wardancer

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany

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  1. The general acceptance of custom minifig parts is much higher than the acceptance of custom parts. One can see that in the number of providers. The only non minifig parts provider I know is altbricks. And these you only see rarely in MOCs.
  2. Thanks! I am always glad if people who actually don't like custom stuff do like my work.
  3. Wood Elf Wardancer - Danse Macabre A lone Wardancer, entangled in a dreadful dance, overcoming foul demons in a spiral vortex of blades. Those suscectible to the divine rhythms of nature can see her ever-changing paths and follow them accordingly. Wardancers move swiftly along these unseen patterns in order to remove any creature who tries to block the flow of energy. They rely on the protection of the three blue tokens bestowed by the goddess herself. Wardancer - Danse Macabre by MWardancer, auf Flickr Wardancer (front) by MWardancer, auf Flickr Wardancer (back) by MWardancer, auf Flickr Customization Techniques For this fig I pushed the boundaries of what I can do and I am very glad how it turned out. It draws a lot of inspiration from the Warhammer figs. From top to bottom: Hair: Elf hairpiece painted Torso: new Poison Ivy torso painted and covered in semi-glossy (new technique!) afterwards Arms: yellow arms dipped (new technique!) in paint; Brickwarriors bladed vambraced painted and glued on. Legs: new Poison Ivy legs painted three times and covered in semi-glossy paint afterwards; Brickwarriors vambraces cut to fit and painted and coated Spear: head of an elaborate spear cut off, head of a Brickwarriors Clarissa Spear cut off, painted and glued on; two whips cut off and painted Sword: Brickwarriors Xiphos Sword Painted; the stag head is the inside of a fingernail art stencil, painted blue
  4. Thanks for the idea, this would work for a really big spear. I also feel there is a lack of horse accessories, especially since we got the new horse type: - different types of horse helmets with different accessories likes horns, feathers, wings etc. - different bardings and horse armors, maybe some modular system I believe customziers don't want to make these because of the high production cost
  5. I would like a fletching piece (the back of an arrow) to turn a spear into a very big arrow.
  6. The Kreo claws are very interesting!
  7. Flawless! Absolutely stunning, beautiful yet demonic. I wonder how a printed eye would look on him.
  8. You might enjoy the latest additions to my custom army (now 156 Elves strong): King's Guard by MWardancer, auf Flickr King's Guard regiment by MWardancer, auf Flickr Pathfinder Scout by MWardancer, auf Flickr Pathfinder Scout regiment by MWardancer, auf Flickr
  9. Dark Elf Wavebreaker Guards Dark Elf Wavebreaker Guards by MWardancer, auf Flickr
  10. LEGO and Super Glue - How to handle a sticky relationship Since I have been customizing for a few years now, I thought I might inspire newcomers by writing down a few experiences: 1. Use gel, not liquid When you go out to buy the glue, go with the gel. It is much less likely to flow into places you don't want it. 2. Take less glue than you might expect Using a big amount of glue does not necessarily make a better connection. LEGO does not absorb glue (except fabric capes). Be aware how tiny the space between two parts is when you press them together. Every excessive bit of glue will be pushed outwards and it will leave an ugly, slippery mound of glue that reveals that you are using nonpurist techniques. 3. Roughen the surface Little cuts can create tiny spaces for the glue to flow into and increase sticking power. Don't exaggerate though or the surface will become uneven. 4. Stop immediately when your fingers become sticky You might reach a point where some super glue touches your hands and you are still in the process of customizing, eager to finish the project. If you don't clean your hands immediately, you will most likely leave glue prints on the fig, your table or your eyes. You cannot just wipe super glue off a fig. It leaves a mark, so if you touch a fig with gluey hands, you might mess it up. You think you can go on customizing with two sticky fingers, only by using the other eight? No you will focus on your fig, forget about the finger glue and then you figs will be tainted. 5. If a connection breaks, clean it up before retrying Sometimes you glue something and it breaks immediately afterwards. Your first impatient impulse might be to add more glue and to try again immediately. This will leave you with a messed up mixture of fresh, semi-fresh and fully hardened glue on a therefore very uneven surface. Instead, let all the glue dry completely. See what you can sand off. Roughen the surface again. Check if your parts still fit. Then try again. 6. Be patient and aware that your connection will be less strong than normal LEGO Your using super glue, so everything should be dry after a few seconds, right? So let us apply some force to see how good the connection really is. Oops, you broke off your part. Do not do that. Let your parts dry for minutes or longer. Then carefully test if they stay on and then let it be. 7. Hold both parts together before you glue Make sure you really know that you have tried if the two parts fit. This sounds obvious, but we are used that in the world of LEGO, everything fits perfectly. Once you start cutting, sanding or carving parts, this is over. Half a millimetre of unevenness might make if impossible for parts to stick together. So make you try without glue first. Is there tension? Where might the glue flow? How will you hold the part while glueing? Where will you put it while it dries? 8. The 80/20 or 90/10 rule This is true for customizing and also life. In the world of LEGO, you are used to perfection. Perfect color matching, parts which are precisely crafted down to 1/5000 mms, perfect clearance. In customizing this is almost impossible. So after you have finished glueing or painting a part you usually assess the result. You might have a result which is maybe 80% or 90% of what you imagined. So the little perfectionist inside us tells us to improve what we just made. Here is my take on that: There is a good chance that trying to turn an 80% resulto into a 100% perfect fig will actually damage the fig or decrease the quality of the outcome. I have experienced countless examples. I broke off good connections and tried to make them even better and in the process messed up the fig. I repainted parts to make them even better and made them worse. So think twice before you go for the last 10-20% of quality. 9. At all cost, avoid the sloppy slippy slide of death The sloppy slippy slide of death is the moment when you press a gluey part against another part - and then decide to move it around in order to hit the perfect spot. There is VERY limited time and VERY limited room for that. Press the part down where you want it. If you move it sideways glue will smear, parts of the glue will be dry, parts still fluid. The connection will most likely be bad. The sloppy slide of death is a perfect way to ruin beautiful surfaces and complete figs.
  11. Great picture! Why the Yoda?
  12. I am reading part six at the moment. He who does not finish the series has forgotten the face of his father! Great figs and good fotography! I am excited about the movie!
  13. Elf Girl will be super easy to feel because of her dress. Why the old shield size? Love the back of the hairpiece. Interesting how the dwarf's tattoo starts on his arm and continues on his chest.
  14. Sounds like you want to paint many parts and big parts. Did I get that right? Then spraypainting might be the best option.
  15. Semi-Glossy mix 50% Revell 1 transparent and 50% Revell 2 transparent. To me it seemed unnecessary to think about the coating for a long time, but now I have realized that this actually makes a big difference. If you use a matte or very glossy paint, the painted area loos unnatural and unlegoish. LEGO has a somewhat semi-glossy finish. Not all parts, but most. Hands for example are often more matte. If you use a semi-glossy. the result will not only look more realistic, it will also be al little protected against damaging the paint. Also a less glossy surface is better for avoiding unwanted reflections when taking photos.