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About krisandkris12

  • Birthday 06/10/93

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    Czech Republic

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  1. Ok so now all the sudden, everyone is a Millennium Falcon master builder?! :D This is incredible! So many new, original AND flawless designs! Excellent work on this one. Given how perfect it looks from the outside, the inclusion of easily accessible interior is something extraordinary. Just so much well done... phew.
  2. That looks much better in proportions! Good luck with those mudguards, these look quite tricky to get reasonably right :D You have chosen the most difficult truck to build :D
  3. Hello and welcome to Eurobricks! Glad to see you here. This model is great and both you and darththelling have my full awe :) I am positive that I will build this one day, there is no way I could resist :D Any new designs from you anyway? Go ahead and make topics about them here!
  4. I wish I could help in more specific way :D My knowledge is rather theoretical, beyond that I am quite poor technic builder. What I found though is that technic liftarms are considerably stiffer against bend when the pinholes are facing in the 'bend plane' compared to them being perpendicular to it. It works sort of like an I beam. For your build, that would mean having some liftarms with holes aligned vertically. That is, however, often tricky to achieve if most of the build has this horizontal fashion :) Can be that the extra weakness introduced by some intricate joinery in order to get some paralel liftarms in ther wouldn't in fat overweight the positive effect of such bracing :D
  5. Although this boxy modular approach looks great and perhaps is very beneficial for prototyping, it seems it restricts you from making realy sturdy base WITH the wheels attached. There will always be that connection point which will either need extensive amount of bracing to be somewhat sufficiently reinforced, or will be prone to bending. I think at least the base should be built as a single structure, using as much of the favorable structural geometry (inspired by real life structures, e.g. gridges...) as possible to let it withstand the load in the center, while not becomming dense and heavy pack of parts that will spring and bend anyway :) The best way to prevent some connection place from bending is to implement such braces that would be 'drawn' or squeezed if such bend occured. That usually lead to some diagonal braces, though I am sure you know that, possibly better than I do :)
  6. Agreed, very wide and flat. Also the mudguards are far from being that flat. They curve upwards, That may create the impression that the hood overhangs them quite a little, but in fact the top of the hood is almost at the height of 2 wheels stacked on top of each other.
  7. Very nice. For this ccale, things hardly can get any better. You could use some better lighting for these pictures so it does proper justice to the model :)
  8. Super cool :D
  9. My bad interpretation then :) All clear now. Btw what you talked about is Foucault pendulum and oddly enough, I have one few feet away from my office in main entrance hall of my university :D This one is 21 m long and in theory should display the phenomena really well, although there are some discrepancies cause by vibrations of the building and people walking around so I'm not sure how well it actually performs :D
  10. Definitely proceed! Wonderful and inovative approach. Remarks: Trying to achieve accurately smooth look of the surface usually leads to highlighting the inevitably remaining inaccuracies, gaps, unevennesses (is that a word :D ?) and odd spots one simply can't avoid in brick world. I suggest you to berak down the uniform snot wall look of the surfaces, not necessarily with some studs but maybe offset tiles and panels, just to raise a little bit of texture which may help the actual 'cracks' between your beautifully shaped sections blend in. I m a big fan of these - snot wall + plate edge techniques. One thing that doesn't look correct to me on your rendition is the overhang trim edge of the top dome panel. Its just to thick and as it is, you can hardly do anything about it. There I would suggest experimetning witn transitioning from snot to wedge plates so you get the edge thinner. I would prefer that even if an exposed stud price is to pay :) Don't waste time attempting for brick built cockpit ;) I'm in awe of this and I hope you can lead it to a succesful end!
  11. ^ Makes sense. Good luck with the event!
  12. ^ Fair :) In the and, most important for you is whether you are happy with it. Unfortunately I don't have time nor funds to build such big dioramas, maybe one day.
  13. Not much to this diorama except the size, or is there? I am big fan of prequels and I am happy that someone still focuses on these great scenes, but besides several lego sets, I only see two actual builds of these Fambasses and the other gungan creature, which are honestly quite blocky. The terrain looks somewhat weird with these regularly placed and oriented 'curved slope ridges' between green baseplates and on the last pic with AATs. All in all, I don't really see any proper lego craft done here, compared to your other work :) Maybe it's intended to be done fast... still I think you can do much better than this.
  14. I really like it. Looks like quite simple but effective design, this might be the best middle-ground option for anyone who is not entirely happy with set MF size and detail but still want somewhat movable and affordable thing :) Good job.
  15. ^ Well then starting the topic after you have the photos ready seems like far better practice.