kurigan

That’s really neat! It’s a lot more intricate than I expected. It does seem more like a Pirates forum thing than a MOC so I’m just going to move it over there.

Hey, I'm just trying to do my job but I do agree there are worse things to bump. Since it's up, anyone else been working on a CGH style frigate?

Bumping old topics form Though we do appreciate your interest and enthusiasm we do ask that you refrain from bumping old topics. This post was last commented on back in 2011. Over five years is a bit much to bump even as pivotal topic as this. For your edification please revisit the Site Guidelines as well as this topic on Bumping Old Topics. Thank you for understanding.

I don't think it's too big. maybe a bit narrow, but seems fairly proportional IMHO. Does it light up too?

Though we do appreciate your interest and enthusiasm we do ask that you refrain from bumping old topics. This post was last commented on 1.5 years ago. For your edification please revisit the Site Guidelines as well as this topic on Bumping Old Topics. Thank you for understanding.

Though we do appreciate your interest and enthusiasm we do ask that you refrain from bumping old topics. This post was last commented on 4.5 years ago. For your edification please revisit the Site Guidelines as well as this topic on Bumping Old Topics. Thank you for understanding.

Though we do appreciate your interest and enthusiasm we do ask that you refrain from bumping old topics. This post was last commented on back in early August. For your edification please revisit the Site Guidelines as well as this topic on Bumping Old Topics. Thank you for understanding.

Due to my efforts in generating my tutorial taking significantly longer than expected I’ve decided to begin releasing it episodically. As I complete each stage I’ll makeup an entry and update that thread. Since there are bound to be comments, questions and concerns along the way I’ve created this thread where they can be posted without mucking up the flow of the tutorial its self. The tutorial can be found here.

Well, the cliche thing to do is to preface any advice with "it's your decision", but, come on... duh. So if it was me: I'd be basing my decision of a few factors. For my sail ships I went with all water line based on this line of reasoning. If I wanted to make museum quality static models, there are better mediums which require a lot less compromise, like wood. What I want are models the maintain a certain playability all be it a more grown-up kind of play. I also wanted them to be able to interact with other lego creations, for the likes of creating scenes or collaborative builds. It's much easier to accommodate water line models since they can be placed atop the same flat surface and other contributing elements while fulls hulls will need to be sunken or otherwise accommodated. I also find that the best techniques for either style do not translate well to the other. Bent hulls like mine, for instance, look pretty neat as waterline models but transitioning them to full hull would look silly. Cb4's technique for full hulls on the other hand makes the best overall effect but without the underwater portion it seems like it would be a lot of extra effort for little gain. So if it's a model ship, then perhaps the full hull is best. If it's a Lego ship, perhaps a water line will be more convenient. As far a costs go, isn't a 4ft model already in the ridiculously expensive range. Maybe it’s not Yamato, Missouri or Intrepid, but you're already making quite the investment. I wouldn't advise cheaping-out and regreting it later over taking longer to acquire and build to be more pleased with the end result. Then again, I have ship models in the work for years and still tear them down to be rebuilt, so maybe I'm no one to listen to on that matter. Another suggestion would be to take advantage of the modularity of Lego and rig the submerged portion to lift on and off, like the stories of a modular building.

I found this most Flickr MOC searching for data on HMS Speedy of Lord Thomas Cochran, who famously took the far superior 32 gun Xebec frigate El Gamo with this tiny 14 gun brig. For those inclined to nautical fiction, Speedy and Cochran were Patrick O'Brien's primary inspiration for Jack Aubry and his HMS Sophie. HMS Speedy_Fighting Tops by TLPershing, on Flickr What we see here is TLPershing's LDD model of that famous ship, and a particularly fine one at that. HMS Speedy_Aft Quarter by TLPershing, on Flickr if you scroll through TLPershing's album there are several more views available as well as some interesting gun designs. as usual i will reach out to the creator and invite then to come and comment, so leave your comments and show your support.

I didn't even notice until you pointed it out. Always just seemed a given to me. Well he'd get my vote!

I couldn't find my way on to Victory. Great find, thanks! Well there's that view of her gun assembly I was looking for Blanid Surprising how narrow those decks get. Wo! Target audience achieved Glad to be of service.

Um… Sort of already have… and working on another one.

Looks like USS Constitution has one too, but it's only a single point. It will still give you an idea of how small we tend to make our frigates around here though. USS Constellation has 3 view points on the spar deck. Two views on HMS Trincomalee's spar deck as well. So far the best quality and most in depth is "Pride". Can you find more? Go ahead and add em to the list!

Ok, here’s my news find for the week(s)? Not Lego news but definitely cool ship themed news. Pride of Baltimore II has a Google street view! So what? Well if you’ve not had the chance to tour the decks of a real tall ship and want to understand a little more about the relationships of all the different elements this is invaluable. It’s also a great insight into a schooner which herself is lovely example of both historic and working sail. I always say sailing replicas like “Pride” are a great reference for modelers, less for a sense oh “how things would have been done” but more for an idea of “how things work”. Now you can take a look all hours of the day and night from your own home. I know for me this is going to be a great source for my ongoing projects here out.

Chains are often over looked in Lego ship modeling yet are an integral part of a ships rig, being what anchors it all down to the hull. Even the masts are only set in place and can lift out without the standing rig. As they sound by their name a ship’s chains are a short series of metal links which fasten through the hull to the chain plate. The chain plate is essentially a large washer made of a large solid sheet of metal which distributes the force exerted on the chain and keeps them from pulling out. The upper end of the chain is connected to the futtock shroud which holds the lower dead eye for the shrouds. To increase the angle of the shroud, making the structure more stable, the chain will pass over the edge of or though, near the edge of a platform which extends from the side of the ship. This is called the channel. Since it’s more an aspect of hull building, were only going to touch on chain plates and channels as constructions. What I’ve come to prefer is building 4073s into the hull as to take advantage of the gap they create. Using this I can pass a string through to act as a chain. On Nonesuch I used 4265c as stoppers on the end of the string, passed through completely. On Blanid I’ll be using a “lark’s head” or “cow hitch” around the 4073 it’s self for each chain. For my channel I’ve built in a 2436 on which a 1 X 6 brick will serve as the platform its self. I’ll then use the outward facing studs as spacers to keep the futtock shrouds/chains from clumping together and cover the end with a tile. Let’s get started! We’re going to figure out how long a piece of string we need for our chain. First I’ll pull off a length of string longer than I know I’ll need. Then I fasten it around a 4037 with a cow hitch. Next I build the 4037 into the hull where it will anchor. I pull the excess taught and draw it up over the channel. I pull it taught so as to not pull the channel platform out of position and pin it in place with the tile over the outward facing studs. Holding the two leads taught I slip the 4624 dead eye in between and set it near the height I like. For this one just above the rail is about right. I then pinch the lead below the block with my forceps to hold the block up. Next i use a pair of 1 X 2 plates to pinch the string off atop the dead eye block. I can make fine adjustments now to the height, but I like where this one sits already. I’ll then take the whole configuration off keeping only the pair of plates in place. I measure to the nearest stud the length I’ve chosen. I can even use half studs if I employ stud jumpers. This time I got lucky and picked almost exactly 9 studs. I use this measurement to build a jig around which I can tie the loops which will become my chains and futtock shrouds. It’s pretty easy to repeat this jig in Lego as to make a bunch of loops in a hurry, but go ahead and check your measurements first. What I’ve done is to take a scrap bit of string and tie and overhand knot around the loop and used to pinch the block in place much like the seizing will do in the next step. It looks good so I’ll move on. The next step is to add a seizing which will pinch the string together and hold the dead eye block in place. This is one of those things that will only look the part. The proper way of seizing a dead eye in place would be maddening at this scale and not be very likely to work very well. For this example I’ve used a light color string which is easier to make out on camera. On the finished product these will be black. How I go about it is to tie a whipping around the loop using a jig like this. After I’ve finished the seizing I cut off the excess string. I place the block into the end without a knot in it and slide the whipping up to pinch the block in place. Now it’s ready to install. By much the same process as before I cow hitch the knotted end around the 4037 built into the hull, pull the whole loop up taught and again pinch it in place with the tile over the studs. I’m pleased with the end result so I’ll continue on making 11 more. Notes: on the real thing, what we’ve made from one piece of string is actually multiple parts. The chain it’s self is at least two links. The rope portion which wraps around the block is called a futtock shroud and is clearly a separate member as well. If you want to get fancy on your model and represent all the different elements, go ahead and know you have my respect for it. I’ve illustrated this simpler method as to be more universal. Any bits of extra detail you can include on your MOC will likely only put more feathers in your cap. If you have any comments, questions or concerns about the tutorial, please take them over to the Discussion Thread. Thank you.

Explanation I have, for years, observed builders who struggle with rigging, while others meet with limited success or don’t try at all. I myself suffered repeated failures before scraping together enough information to develop this technique. The guiding principal is to emulate the real thing as to take advantage of the thousands of years of convention on sailing rather than “reinventing the wheel”. For many the “just make it look good” attitude works well but I have found the prevailing reason for this attitude was a belief that string rigging would be too costly and time consuming. Whereas I won’t lie to you and let you think it doesn’t require patience, I do intend to dispel those myths. It can be, not only affordable, but down right cheap. Once you grasp the concept you may also find that it really is just a series of repeated steps which can be done rather quickly once you’ve figured out your knots and jigs. Expectations This will be less of a tutorial and more of a guide. The goal is not to lead you through the process of copying one rig in particular but to give you the tools and techniques you can use to build your own to suit your needs. The hull(s) you’ll see in this treatise are unconventional constructions and not required to apply these lessons. This essay is not about hull building and will not cover the subject except to illustrate specific needs such as stability. So long as YOUR design can withstand the pressure the rigging will apply to it, it will work for you. Where this author does, wholeheartedly, ascribe to the belief that there is only one “right way” to do a thing, it is not contradictory to consider the subtle nuances of that method as particular to the user. Because of this I leave a lot open to your interpretation, like materials. I’ll tell you what I use, and why, but substitutions are up to you all on an individual basis. Necessity is the mother of invention and that’s exactly how I came up with many of the tools and materials I use. Simply, they are what I had available. The primary subject of this series will be a topsail schooner of the Baltimore Clipper variety. The actual sail plan is my own design, heavily inspired by contemporary replica Pride of Baltimore II and others. This rig was chosen for both its simplicity as well as it inclusion of multiple types of sails, useful to builders like you. Through this process you will not only learn to apply rigging to Lego, but garner something of a basic education on rigging in general. Needs Materials String, and lots of it: I use embroidery thread available from any arts and craft or hobby store. Many other types of retailer carry it as well, such as Walmart. I find it useful as it is not only ridiculously cheap, but comes in several gauges and myriad colors. For our purposes on this build I’ll be using two different gauges of black to simulate tarred rope in the standing rigging and beige to mimic the color of hemp rope in the running rig. Fabric for sails: More later Glue: While I insist tying knots is essential to the process I do often ensure their stability with a dab of glue as one of the weaknesses of the thread I use is a tendency to slip. The glue is also useful for wicking the ends of your string so it can be easily passed through narrow openings or just stop it from fraying between uses. Tools -Scissors -Tweezers -Forceps -Hobby knife -Probe/pick set -A clean and well-lit work space -Plenty of light -Plenty of patience -1/8” dowel: Not necessary but may make your life a lot easier. More on that later -A hull which meets the parameters mentioned in the forward. -Bricks and Plates: pieces set aside to construct jigs around which many of your knots will be tied. What you need to know Useful Knots (bends, seizing and splices) Vocabulary This list will grow with time as the tutorial develops and even more terms will be worked in to the lessons as we go, but here’s a few to get you started. Bend- aboard ship, never a knot. Knots are accidental, bends are intentional Fast- not a reference to speed but short for fastened as in tied securely. Half-fast not half a… well you get it. It means poorly executed. Belay- Temporally secured but not knotted Cord- what lubbers call rope. Rigging-The rigging or “rig” of a ship is essentially the drive system of the vessel. It harnesses the wind to create a differential in atmospheric pressure which compels the hull through the water. Rigging is made of three major systems; the rigid, semi-rigid and soft. The rigid comprises all the members made of wood, metal and other hard materials which you’ll be simulating with Lego. These include, masts, spars, blocks, ring bolts and many other such elements. The semi-rigid is the standing rigging. Made of initially flexible rope, these members are placed under constant tension and provide additional support to the rigid portions. Because they are not intended to move or change they are often tarred and served with additional cord, which increases the rigidity and adds to their strength. The soft members are the likes of control lines such as halyards, tacks and sheets. Lacings between blocks, and the sails themselves also comprise the soft portion. The relationship of these elements in the machine that is a ship is interdependent and it has been the observation of this author that no one will work (well) without the others. Block-and-tackle-The term block and tackle refers to a number of devices which increase mechanical advantage and are comprised of both rigid and flexible elements such as a pulley. The rigid portion is the “block” of either the eye or pulley variety. The tackle is the lacing, a rope run through the block to create the action. Eyes are used primarily to increase friction in order to hold elements of rigging fast but can also serve to change the direction of a running line. Pulleys reduce friction and increase lifting/pulling power. Most commonly used in running rigging to lift heavy elements or control sails against the power of the wind. If you have any comments, questions or concerns about the tutorial, please take them over to the Discussion Thread. Thank you.

OK, long day but I’m back to follow up. To start with cap’n, you know I agree with eh bow sprit problem. I think something like 1 ½ studs would be about ideal for this and most applications, but I just haven’t found the brick or configuration bricks that really work. Perhaps the tiles thing will work, worth a shot. I’d be more into rubber banding them around a round brick though so it could be rounder. I once even tried slipping tiers over round bricks but it looked just terrible. My whole thing though is to make these thing repeat-able and inexpensive. The 2 X 2 rounds are cheap and effective. I think the red looks, dashing. It seemed an aggressive paint scheme to me. Could be ant color though it’s just 1 X 4s. I think the hogging is a result of the sides being bent too much (yes there is such a thing) it’s just under a lot of stress. Looking at it I wonder that you haven’t hit on something. A quick glance at Ejred’s drawings, favors your opinion. I think I’ll add a window in the middle and see how that looks. The starboard side looks better because the last brick at the top is black so it only leaves a small gap of yellow from the tall slope. Since I’m going to have to rebuild any way, I may tear in to do something about that too. Might even work some of Blanid’s sheer curve in to her as well while I’m at it. Incidentally, I’m always experimenting to find ways to make physical connections with the transoms, I know the rubber bands on Blanid make some skins crawl. I found out on Ramcat here that tow ball actually locks in to a 3937 nicely. Ejred, thanks so much for the share. Not exactly the same type, no, but close enough to get the point. I do see it, that my stern is too narrow, looks neat, but not quite right. I’m thinking it’s at the heart of a lot of this hull’s problems. I’m just going to have to find a bunch more 1 X tan plates to fill the deck back in.

It's not a bump, its an up date. grumble, grumble... She's an on-going project, that even older than that Now for everyone else's benefit, because I do get that you're joking, it's OK to revive your own topic with good reason. With good reason, mind. I feel justified in this case because Ramcat does (or did) have something of a following Keeping the log going might also be beneficial to the community and I wished to show the contrast from the old to the new version. Now cap'n, I'll get back to you later on, but on the point of her stern, I find you may be correct about the width and the extra stress amidship might be what's causing the hog. On this one I'm exclusively working for model's and replicas. I have no draft or drawings to reference. Does anyone have reference material on the type, if not this particular, Providence, could do me a favor? If I had a dorsal view over which to superimpose my own photo I could make corrections.

A few weeks ago I found that I may have an opportunity to display my ships publicly. I was pretty excited about the prospect but determined they should be displayed in as, close to, a finished state as possible. When I sat down to plan for Ramcat and Nonesuch I just couldn’t get past some of the things about the former I just never liked. It put a bug up my butt and I tore, rather mercilessly, in to her. Originally I only intended to correct a few elements, however, after several hours she was little more than a pair of gunwales. After a weeks worth of construction and reconstruction her concept changed dramatically. She went from something like a Bermuda Sloopto something a lot more like Providence. Another week went into finer detail and I thought I was pretty close to a new finished product. I started to figure Ramcat's re-rigging would work well into my rigging tutorial since she would illustrate several alternatives to the primary subject of that effort, Blanid. Once again I sat down to her to plan out a course of action only to find that Ramcat’s hull had hogged horribly. If she were a real wooden ship, she’d be condemned. Being that I’m still rather impressed with the superior shape I was able to achieve and confident something can be done to shore her up, I figured I’d share the update anyway. At this point I don’t think I’m going right back to tearing her down for another time consuming re-build. Instead I’ll move on with my tutorial in the hopes of having the schooners ready for display and return to Ramcat when i have less irons in the fire. A quick note on the guns. At the moment I’m not volunteering them for The Foundry because of the way they are constructed. To join the two cones I used dowel, though flex tube could be cut to fit as well. What would be better is if The One Ring came in anything but gold. If I could get 10 rings in black, that would certainly be my preferred method, but being a perpetual WIP I’ll just leave them this way for now. Edit: Just wanted to add this as it's kinda neat. the quarter deck is removable to expose the cabin below. As always more images on my Photobucket including WIP shots of this version as well as plenty of the old version.

It's an interesting bit of conjecture, but you provide no reference or visual aid. When I came across the topic I was really hoping for something more investigative. Perhaps something more like this: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115164&hl=+fright%20+knight#entry2343021

Well… where this is better than the typical bump, I’m still going to take the opportunity to stress caution. Bumping old topics is frowned upon. This one hasn’t been active since 2012, I’d wonder if this MOC is even still together. Though you did try to make some conversation, and that’s good, it might have better been broached in a privet message to Sebeus. You’ll find most of our members, especially the older ones, are pretty friendly and helpful. All that being said, welcome aboard mate!

I'm not usually a fan of painted figures but I find these worked out pretty well so far. I can identify the characters with out any other clue and that's really key, isn't it? I'm curious though, are you using the TV show or the movie for character models?

I’ve gone and edited out the unnecessary content from your post. In such cases it really is not necessary to quote the entire message nor is it particularly wise to make comment on the length of the post then proceed to repost it in its entirety.