allanp

As others have said it's not really a problem with what you have built. But it is a flaw in the design of the hub itself. There is far too much friction between the CV ball and socket which saps alot of power from the motor.

Very informative, thankyou

It also has the benefit of not stalling the motor.

Pushing in and down both tabs at the same time should do it. There's nothing else holding it together. If you are finding it difficult it might help to fix the axle hole end securely to a model/MOC to give you both hands free.

But you didn't???????

Another reason they didn't inlude LAs is cos they wern't released until the year after. The vaue of this set depend on what you want it for. If you want lots of PF parts (2 XL motors, 2 M motors, 2 recievers (version 1), 1 battery box and 1 transmitter) and tracks then it's a good buy. However if you are looking for a good model with lots of mechanicle complexity then it's not so good. 8258 also comes with an XL motor (as well as battery box and pole reverser switch). Not so good as a source of PF parts but includes LAs ( ) and lots of mechanicle goodness.

Excellent choice sir. If you are new to the older sets you'll find this a nice challenge compared to the super easy sets of today. You may notice in the instructions that in one step you are told to use a large pulley wheel for the pump, in the next step it tells you to use two medium pulleys. I suggest trying both to see which one best suits your particular motor and pump (no two are exactly identical, especially older/used ones). Usually the medium pulleys are better.

No need to say sorry, just glad you got it to work I think the tracks turning as the superstructure turns is normal. Looking at the design, as it turns it rotates the axles going through the turntable that turn the tracks so that's normal.

Fantastic, there's alot of functionality there

In the top picture, the left hand version has a 3L axle pushed into a 3 deep hole (so it can't be pulled out cos it's sunk all the way in) that is also blocked at the end (so you can't use anything to push it out from the other side). You can remove these parts by drilling a small hole into the axle and screwing in a tiny wood screw to give you a handle to remove them. Sometimes the axle can still be used as normal. As the axle goes through a cross block you could also try using a needle in the slot to slide it out, but be carefull as that's pretty much the easiest way to stab yourself!

"I did get some good advice on this topic I started, but sometimes it feels like you get ignored cause you aren't as good as the MOC builders." I think that in this case nobody wants to own up and say I have no idea what the hell the problem is! We really need some pictures with as many of the irrelevant parts removed as possible so we can see whats going on.

Doesn't adding more motors drain the batteries faster?

So was it the wrong way up afterall?

My spidey sences were telling me that probably not all helicopers work the same. Here's a clip from one of my favorite shows. The interesting bit starts at about 1:18. The whole series is well worth a watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGZb1wTWNec&feature=relmfu Larger heli's are basically the same in pricipal with the teeter bearing becoming less common the bigger the heli gets. A seaking resue helicopter works like this:

I thought everybody knew that!

The only real practical difference i've noticed so far is that they are not as tight fitting on an axle as the older ones. They look stronger but never broke an older one. They do appear to be "rounder" that the older ones. By that I mean that when an older gear turned on an axle they weren't always exactly circular, these newer ones however are.

That's awesome, really compact and looks great.

The RC buggy motor makes it awesome, tho probably not so child friendly

Yes I meant that you should remove the fairing so we can see more clearly. A video would be great but I meant that you could take another still picture whilst it was trying to turn to see if things were moving out on alignment.

Mine arrived today too, they are fantastic, they even smell kinda like real tyres . They are pretty much the same diameter as he power puller tyres.

Very nice looking model right there!

Is there any chance you can post a photo(s) with a clear view of the swivel mechanism? And perhaps another picture of it whilst it is trying to turn?

It would work as a differencial momentarily up until the pins touch, then it will be completely locked, so yes it'll work just as long as you only intend to turn a small amount before turning back the other way. You could try this:

The non plumped tyres do look much better. They look to be larger in diameter and thinner which is generally more life like.

Thankyou for this Philo. There is one bit I don't get tho. In the tables, the RC buggy motor seems to give the most mechanical power at 9v, whereas the synthesis chart shows the XL motor giving the most power.