allanp

Why not have servo motors to control the valves? (besides costs I guess, tho I doubt TLG pays anywhere near what we have to pay for them!). I'de have 5 pneumatic cylinders in total. Two standard ones for the tilt, 1 longer one for raising the forks, and two very long ones for raising the telescopic section. The one longer one is pretty much the most needed size for pneumatics I think, as models get bigger the pneumatics need to get longer. The two extra long ones would be used for telescopic booms and would probably be as common as the smallest pneumatic cylinder.

Now that's what i'm talking about

Oh what a lovely thread to bump, and using one of my favorite rants too I forgot to meantion a couple thing in that particular speech, namesly that two pneumatics in parallel will stay in sync with each other whereas LAs can go out if one of the clutches slip making them work against each other and sapping power. Pnaumatics also look more authentic with their hoses running to them and their shiney rods! They even sound cooling with their cool pffft sound and compressors almost sounding like engines. I agree that improvements can be made to the valves so that they are more proportional (also having the ports on the rear of the valve would be better than on the side because many valves could be stacked side by side) and obviously we could really do with having longer cylinders.

WTF! Crowkillers was on TV?????????? Serious kudos to you dude!

Scale doesn't bother me. Obviously I like flagships to be huge, flagship super/hyper cars should be at least 1:8. But to make an 1:8 mobile crane would be crazy.

Wait, what? It's not like this guy is an official designer being paid lots of money to spend all his working time to design lego models with all the recouses of TLG (practicly unlimited supply of parts with the option of choosing new colours and having a dedicated design team on hand to create any new parts he wants). From TLG I expect something that is the best it could possibly be. But from a MOCer you can't expect the same standards. This car ain't just another car. It's a mans efforts at trying to create something awesome using what precious little time and recources he has. Thankyou Dluders for bringing all the MOCs you do to our attention. I love seeing what others are building and this car is obviously a big effort to create something awesome for us to enjoy.

Very neat and compact MOC, love it!

if the bley news is true, then, well, erm. Haven't they left it a bit late? I mean, if they reverted back just a few years after the change then it would have been very welcomed, but by now I have more bley in my collection of parts than grey. Personnaly it doesn't bother me THAT much. In fact I think I like this news, I think. I don't like using "obsolete" parts (like toothed toggle joints and the first style of 24t gear with the three axle holes) but now those parts won't look old and yellow compared to the new ones. But I imagine lots of people are gonna be pissed! BTW the colour change had nothing to do with instructions. The old grey and dark grey are kinda yellow compared to the newer, much cleaner looking greys. However before the new greys were introduced I don't think hardley anyone really noticed the yellowness. It's only now since the new greys were introduced do the old greys have a yellow tinge to them in comparison which may lead one to ask, why change the colours in the first place? Could it be to add a degree of obsolescence? In any case I guess specific colour tones don't have as much of an impact on technic as much as it would do for other themes such as castle where the older, warmer greys certainly do look alot better than the colder looking bleys, and where easthetics is of greater importance than functionality**. Whilst the new greys look more like steel (good for technic) the older greys look more like every other material for every other theme. So I guess us technic fans might not be the best people to ask if we like this change or not. **although I am of course tempted to question wheather or not functionality above form is still the main focus of technic as most new sets lead me to wonder.

Hey, I love U2! Just watched it might get loud, great documentary! What was this thread about again?

Yeah, so before anyone starts complaining (before I do!) just remember that these are only the first half sets, the smaller ones for the first half of the year. So no flagship news just yet.

I don't think he's trolling us, just concerned TLG might not be very happy with him, not that I think he should be

What hype, where? I missed it! Drat!

Thought so

An explosion of awesome from you right there, just one question tho! What's the middle differencial for in the dumper?

Vehicles: Supercar or hypercar (with different sized synchros) Space stuttle (with canterlever style unfolding satalite wings and a few gold/yellow chrome coloured parts) JCB back hoe (with 4wd, pendular front steered axle, motorised slow/powerful drive with planetary gear reduction in the wheel hubs, motorised compressor, longer pneumatics) Forklift truck (RC with longer pneumatics) Monster truck (with planetary wheel hub reduction) Skip truck (with live axle suspention, motor for drive and compressor, longer pneumatics, possible b-model to forklift?) Helicopter (with collective and cyclic control, tail rotor pitch control, realistic this time ) Plane (with multiple props and engines) Non-vehicles Aligator (with pneumatic sequencing for walking and bending side to side as he walks, possible JCB b-model?) Swiss cuckoo clock (with at least two working hands and working boinging bird action!) Rollercoaser (with awesomeness!) Swinging ship/topspin/enterprise (from alton towers)/waltzers universal set Oh and more universal sets!

The closer to the wheels the better as this will prevent the extra torque affecting the rest of the drive train. So yeah, 8:24 in the wheel hubs would be best.

It's not too hard to separate these actually. Wedge two strudy butter knives between the parts you want to separate, one in each side. Then twist them in opposing directions. Then spend an hour trying to find where they went

I think the best way to do this with Lego parts would be to have separate water and air tanks. Use the pumps to fill the water tanks with water, then switch a valve to divert that pump to compress air into an air tank. Then use the pressurised air to blast the water out of the water tank.

I would think that the tipping bed is just another optional extra.

Yup, that's why I have both

Lots more really nice sets you mentioned there. I can never decide between CC1 and CC2. CC1 lacked a motor but made up for it with having many more gears. However the t-rex is awesome and the powerjack is a huge plus. I'm always changing my mind with these two.

The black and yellow one would look great if it weren't for the red chassis. I think light grey would look better. Also like the blue and white one.

It must cost TLG a fortune to do the modern instructions. With three books to one model and multi-coloured gears and pins and different colours for odd/even/2L axles, building a modern set is more like a chore. I can start building the cherry picker whilst watching a movie and have it finished by the end of it, having remembered more from the movie than the mind numbing build. I'de much rather they save the money on instructions for the larger sets and make them smaller, say 50 steps per 1000 parts max and have both models in the same booklet. Then spend the money on the packaging so we get the see though thingy when you lift the lid so we can drool over the parts, especially the new more interesting parts in their own little tray. This ain't nostalgia talking this is common sence my friends

For me, my current top ten (in numerical order) is: 8094 (not as many motors as 8485 but lots more gears and more interesting mechanics, tho 8485 has flex system, hmmmm) 8110 (contender for best ever technic set, the biggest and most realistic/authentic technic set ever, has everything) 8421 (Big and impressive with buggy motor and authentic telescopic boom) 8455 (Most realistic and complex back-hoe to date with room to spare for a fake engine in a medium sized 704 part model) 8459 (great medium sized set with huge functionality packed into tiny spaces, way better and more realistic than the larger 8265) 8480 (A milestone in complexity, first set to use driving rings to allow one motor to power many complex functions, and it's white!) 8856 (Hard to choose between this and 9396. Nither of them are realistic but 8856 is probably a tiny bit closer to real life) 8865 (Another milestone, first set to have steered and suspended front wheels, steering geometry better than todays sets) 8868 (Another milestone, first to have motor compressor, functions and even sounds authentic, big wow factor to non AFOLs) 8880 (Yet another milestone, first to have 4 wheel drive/steering/suspention and still the best gearchange, looks gorgeous!)