Dan-147

You beat me to it! The nice thing about that cat is that he's hiding in a high corner like real cats like to do. Dan-147

Hello Thorsten I'm also quite sad that RAILBRICKS seems to be in limbo. I contributed quite a few instructions when it was active. The last time I tried to submit instructions, I couldn't get in touch with anyone so I gave up and just put the instructions on Rebrickable.com. I guess it's another case of life getting in the way for the people in charge of RAILBRICKS. If you can get access to the controls of the site and need help with it I'd be interested in getting involved. Just send me a PM and I'll be glad to respond. Dan-147

The configuration of the switch is such that the ties (sleepers) of two parallel tracks touch each other. That means that if two 8-stud trains meet, they will rub against each other and forget about any details that stick out. Dan-147

Kind of reminds me of a vignette a LUG member did. The theme was 'What I did last summer'. It was really well detailed with all the equipment that surrounds a person in a modern hospital bed. The sad part was that it ment that he spent a large part of summer in hospital... I hope your little vignette will cheer up your friend. Dan-147

As others have mentioned, you can always convert 60052's locomotive to something more realistic and more like the fabulous Marsk. Zephyr1934 posted some really nice instructions. Check it out on this link http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=108434&hl=conrail Dan-147

Basically, you're free to cut the 3mm hose to the length you need. LEGO provided 2 32 stud black hoses in 10183 Hobby Trains that were meant to be cut to whatever length the particular model you decided to build required. Dan-147

I'm too much of a whoose to put my 'precious' LEGO track outside in the dirt. But I still think this is a great idea! Lately, I've been thinking about a LEGO garden railway but it would use LGB type track. Tenderlok's recent posts http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=115739 and http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=116100 have been a great inspiration. Not sure I could have an underwater section but I still think it's pretty neat. Dan-147

I'm a huge Ghostbusters fan and I really want this set. Just before it was announced I was seariously thinking of bricklinking the Swiss Ghostbusters set. It will stretch my budget but I hope I can make it work, especially if it's available for at least a year. As for the back wall and minimal tiling, eventually I intend to address these issues but I will spread it over time so that my budget can catch up. At least it will be complete from the get-go. One thing I want to do is to mount Peter's and Jennine's desks on a 16 x 16 baseplate so that they are easier to remove when Ecto-1 is in the firehouse. I may even throw in a few of the Swiss Ghostbusters improvements. Dan-147

I always like to get the LDD file. It allows me to check out the building techniques more fully. Thanks! Dan-147

There seems to be a few reddish brown doors on the upper floors so I'm guessing the locker doors will be stickers on reddish brown doors. Dan-147

It would seem that reddish brown doors will finally be available in 2016, Check out the pictures of 75827 Ghostbusters Firehouse Headquarters http://brickset.com/sets/75827-1/Ghostbusters-Firehouse-Headquarters The easiest way to get them will probably be through LEGO Bricks and Pieces. Dan-147

Changing the click bricks made a big difference. Before, every time the head would swing to the rear, the whole neck assembly would smash against the back of the body. So much so that when I replaced the click bricks I noticed that several of the bricks in the back of the body had cracked. I called LEGO about it and they sent me replacements for all the cracked pieces. Great service! Dan-147

I had the weak neck problem on my Wall-E and these parts fixed that problem. It still has the spinning-head problem though. I was going to get the McVeigh mod but when I heard that LEGO had retired the model to redesign this part I decided to hold off and wait to see what they come up with. Dan-147

I have one of each except Market Street. All bought new when they were still available from LEGO. My significant other asked me if I wanted it when it was still easy to get but I passed on it because I didn't really like it. Probably the decision I regret the most about the modulars. For now, they are all stock but I intend to tweak most of them starting wit PC. Love the building but I was never fond of the interior that isn't as grandiose as it should be. I've reworked it in LDraw based on a design by Missing Brick http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=78620&hl=+missing%20+brick%20+palace#entry1497706 I hope to get it done in 2016. Dan-147

I have a 20 axle Schnabel car that has been in the works in limbo since 2008. I recently got a few pointers from Meisterschnorrer for the telescoping arms (necessary because of the tight LEGO curves) so I hope to ge it finally done in 2016. I'll keep you guys posted! Dan-147

Try your local hobby place, the ones that sell R/C cars and R/C airplanes. They usually have a K&S Engineering display stand with the tubings and rods. Dan-147

I use a very similar layout but I cut my tubing to 33mm so I don't need the No.2 washers. I have retrofit the washers to my earlier tubing which had been cut to 32mm particularly on the aluminium tubing that I tried for a future Schnabel car. I went back to the brass tubing because it had a snugger fit in the 1 x 1 plate with clip light (4081b) that I use to hold the tubing. I forego the Kragle because I use K&S Engineering stock No. 8168, 0,081" x 12" brass rod for axles. Cut to 40mm length (1,575"). One 12" piece gives 7 axles. Not bad for 2-3$. It's a snug fit and the wheels can't fall off. I use graphite powder as a lubricant. Completely safe with ABS. You can get it in hobby shops in a tube that goes by the name Greas-em. Dan-147

Part No.58181 Slope 33 3 x 6 without Inner Walls http://alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=58181#T=C

In North America, you're looking at 14 gauge solid electrical wire. But like zephyr1934 said, bring a clip as there is quite a bit of variation from one manufacturer to another and even from one batch to another from the same manufacturer. White and red are also easy to get. Other colors are more of a problem. Back on topic, great redesign once again Tony. Even the first version was first class. It just gets better and better. Dan-147

Great reuse of the gas station from 10184 Town Plan! I've been wanting to integrate mine with my modulars for some time. This might just be the ticket... Love the interior. This year's towtruck fits right in. Dan-147

Once again, I'm blown away. What more can I say? This is fantastic. Really makes me want to try G-gauge. Dan-147

A few years ago I made two 7-stud wide articulated double-stack well cars, one a Gunderson 3-unit car and the other one was a TTX 5-unit car. I made instructions only for the Gunderson car since the TTX was basically the same only simpler. I tried to upload them to the Railbricks site but that site seems to be in limbo now so I uploaded to Bricksafe instead: http://bricksafe.com...ntainer Car.pdf Thanks to LEGO's tight curves, I had to cheat on the Jacobs bogies. Instead of having a single pivot on the center of the bogie on which both cars are articulated, each car has a separate pivot near it's end of the bogie. The end bogies are articulated in the same manner so they can cope with the tight curves. They should pivot under extensions of the car frame. While this is not prototypical it has the unexpected benefit of making it easier to go from 1-unit to 5-unit since each unit is the same. Hope this can be helpful. Dan-147

It kind of reminds me of the last pages of the Cafe Corner instructions! Back then LEGO was inciting fans to buy up to six copies of this set to make a mega construction since they couldn't push fans to buy other sets (seeing that this was the first modular). Personally, I think the laundromat behind the bank makes perfect sense. Respectable buildings, such as a bank are on Main Street while laundromats and other sleazier businesses are usually on seedier side streets. That probably explains why the main side of the bank looks more like a facade rather than half of a corner. I for one am looking forward to adding this modular to my collection. Dan-147

Hello AlexJ, Welcome to the crazy world of LEGO trains. If you want to power the HE with only one motor, give yourself a chance by replacing the technic-axle unpowered bogie on the unpowered locomotive with an unpowered bogie that uses the regular wheel bricks (2878). See this link http://cache.lego.co...ons/4167345.pdf for inspiration (Metrolner instructions, step #12 on page 17). The technic axles have enormous friction, especially when compared to the regular wheels. Dan-147

The best LEGO after-market has got to be Bricklink.com. Right now, it lists 32 stores in New Zealand with 3 of them having sizable stock. Check it out. Dan-147