Dan-147

I was inspired by Legoboy's original post way back in June 2010 (has it already been 2 1/2 years?). Since then, I have equipped all my MOCed and MODed freight cars and locomotives with Kadee couplers (13 to date). I've kept the magnets on my vintage (80's and 90's) trains though. Here is a picture of the couplers installed on a locomotive and car for anyone that might be interested: http://www.flickr.co...N07/5705019592/ No LEGO was harmed in this installation. The coupler is attached to a regular ''3x2 plate with hole'' with a #2 screw and nut. Here is an exploded view of the components: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14163824@N07/5711044112/ I'm very satisfied with the look and operation of the couplers. Unfortunately, as with Legoboy, I don't have a permanent layout and I haven't been able to test the uncoupling feature. Dan-147

Always great to see them ''in the brick''. Dan-147

I'm pretty partial to the ramp design from the old 7720 set: This scan comes from the Brickfactory site: http://www.brickfactory.info/theme/index.html Dan-147

I've posted instructions for a GE C30-7, which was the model immediatly following the GE U23C in GE's catalog. If interested, follow this link; http://railbricks.com/instructions/ge-c30-7/ Dan-147

I always felt it looked a lot like a British Rail Class 60 diesel-electric locomotive; Even the colors are pretty close. Replace some of the yellow on the sides with some light bluish gray and it will be pretty proto-typical. Dan-147

I believe Lego has adressed the issue. The newer train wheels that come unassembled (bearing block, two wheels and a metal axle) have plastic on plastic bearings instead of the previous metal on plastic bearings (the metal axle poked through the wheels and rubbed on the bearing block). My guess is that the newer wheels probably don't wear down as fast as the older ones. Since I don't have the chance to run my trains all that much, I don't have first-hand experience. Maybe someone in the know can give us some feedback. Dan-147

Can you read french? Seriously, FreeLUG did a write-up with pictures a while back about boosting the power of the 9volt controller; http://www.freelug.org/spip.php?article328 They also had a write-up with pictures about fixing the wheels of the Santa Fe cars; http://www.freelug.org/spip.php?article701 Good luck with GoogleTranslate. Sometimes the translations can be hilarious. Dan-147

I feel for you. I went through the same thing in the late 80s early 90s. Back then, I didn't know there was a market for my LEGO sets, othewise I might have sold them. In the end, I pulled through without selling my LEGO. If I had sold them, I might not have gone back to the hobby. That being said, it's your call. I know how hard it can be to work all the time and not be able to afford anything. Weather or not you sell them, better times will come and I wish you the best in everything. Dan-147

I'm suprised nobody suggested you check out the old LGauge site: http://lgauge.com/ It hasn't been updated recently but it has no less than 5 designs for intermodal equipement, 4 with complete instructions. Maybe it's just a sign of how old I'm getting that I know this site... Dan-147

As promised, here are the pictures of the disassembled and modified coupler: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_small.jpg Here it is with a technic pin and a technic 3/4 pin: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_pin.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_pin_3-4.jpg This is what it looks like mounted to a Cale Leiphart style bogie: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_bogie_1.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/coupler_bogie_2.jpg As you can see, it mounts a little high; which might cause interference with the car's underside. Additionally, this could cause problems when coupling with cars that have regular couplers, be it old-style or new-style. Redesigning the bogie to mount it at a better height might not be easy. Separating the coupler from the buffer beam implies a bit of LEGO mutilation. The following pictures show the use of side cutter plyers to pry out the pin. Before going at it with the plyers, it's a good idea to make two cuts with a sharp hobby knife as on the second picture (red lines). http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/removing_coupler_1.jpg http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/dan-147/NewCoupler/removing_coupler_2_cut.jpg Please note that the side cutter plyers on the picture are miniature models. I used a plow buffer for my example because that is the model I have experience with. The plow buffer on the pictures was not hurt in any way as the pictures were just to show the method. If you're going to be hacking at the buffer beam, a better idea might be to just cut the buffers off. The resulting piece could be easily used on the illustrated bogie by replacing the front tile. Here are a few examples from a discussion I had a while back on Flickr when I was debating if I would modify the buffer beams or go with Kadee couplers. I finally went with the Kadee couplers for a number of reasons; easier installation, no part modification, stronger link between cars and the possibility of remote uncoupling. http://www.flickr.com/photos/14163824@N07/4532547769/ Hope this helps you in your reflexion. Dan-147

I disassembled the plow buffer beam on my Maersk locomotive because I wanted to install a Kadee ''O'' gauge coupler. Normally, I would have used a solution that did not involve modification of a LEGO part but I wanted to stay as close as possible to the original design out of respect for Pierre Normandin (the Maersk loco designer) who is also a member of my LUG (QueLUG). It was quite a struggle to get the pin that holds the coupler out. I used side cutter plyers to bite in the plastic just above the pin head so I could pry the pin out. Since I hate to waste, I checked out what I could do to reuse the coupler. I sanded down the domed dimples on each side where the pin went through and then I used a round needle file to enlarge the hole to the size of a technic pin. The end result is a coupler with an end that resembles the end of a technic liftarm (a bit thinner, two plates thick). It would be possible to mount the coupler to a ''3 x 2 plate with hole'' with a ''Technic, Pin 3/4''. I could post a picture but that will have to wait until tomorrow. Dan-147

Thanks Locomotive Annie for sharing the file! Congrats also to Pickyourownbogie for this great work. I always like to look through someone else's design to get the creative juices flowing. Maybe I can pick up some ideas I can apply (My area of interest is mostly contemporary North American freight). Dan-147

After sending a not-very-nice message through EBay's service to the_book_hut(Michael Juenemann), he ''gladly'' removed and stopped selling instructions based on my models. I recommend that everyone who's intellectual property was stolen by this leech send him a message telling him clearly what you think of his buisiness tactics. He was pretty nasty in his reply so I don't recommend kid gloves when dealing with him. Dan-147

I agree 100%. If he sells none or dozens of copies of my designs, it won't make any difference in my bank account. I did loose a bit of that ''I made that'' pride from those buyers that are unaware that they purchased one of my designs. Well I guess that it's another one of those ''Buyer beware'' situations. It's not always easy to know if a seller is the true owner. Dan-147

He got all of my freight cars. Just changed the colors and bogies (I use a modified version of Cale Leiphart's design)... http://www.ebay.com/...=item20cf4f3c86 http://www.ebay.com/...=item20cf4f2756 http://www.ebay.com/...=item20cf4f81be http://www.ebay.com/...=item20cf4f4cb7 http://www.ebay.com/...=item20cf4f81cd http://www.ebay.com/...=item20cf4f4cc1 I had posted them on Railbricks to share with the community, not so some idiot could make a profit from it. I'm not really sure what to do about it though. Dan-147

With PF M-Motor or XL-Motor mounted in the boxcar and technic axles and gears to route the power down to the bogie and wheels, it could be done. Plus the XL-Motor will out-pull the regular train motor. Dan-147

Impressive... I was very disappointed with the Palace Cinema's interior, particularly the windows in the screening room, the non seperate projection booth and the limited seating. Your mods solve all of these issues. I will certainly be doing something like this, unless I go for a straight rip-off!! Speaking of which, would it be possible to post more pictures as some details are still a little fuzzy. A Ldraw or LDD file would be great but I know how time-consuming that can be. Now, if only someone could redesign that awful limo... Dan-147

I haven't gotten the Horizon Express yet so I can't say if one motor is enough. What I do know from the Maersk Train is that the brick-built bogie with the technic axles (front one on the Horizon Express) is a horrible source of friction; much, much more than the bogie with the train wheel holder with the RC Train wheels (back one on the Horizon Express). Whatever you do, I'd make sure that all unpowered bogies did not have technic axles, even if it means getting extra parts. Dan-147

It also seems to include the elusive straight section of narrow-gauge track! Oh, the possibilities... Dan-147

I may sound like a parrot, but I have to agree with everyone else, great review! I already knew when it came out that I wuld have to buy at least two but your review made that painfully clear. Or you can run an extension wire from the reciever to some out-of-the-way place (behind the driver?) where you can stack the PF connectors. That way, you use only one channel. Dan-147

While I agree with what you say, I have to point out that the other time LEGO released standalone train products was during the 12-volt Golden Age when LEGO's situation was pretty rosy. They also didn't sell all that well. However, for some reason that I could never understand, they were never distributed in North America. In the 80's, I used to drool over the cool LEGO train sets available in Europe knowing full well that I couldn't get them in any local store. Dan-147

Interesting... I'm on a quest for larger radius track. Although my models can negociate LEGO's tight curves, they can look quite silly. You wouldn't happen to have any photos/references/links for these non-LEGO tracks? Dan-147

I model in 7-wide and one of the factors that keeps me away from 8-wide is the diameter of the available wheels. They tend to look smallish in 8-wide (although the oversized flanges do create an illusion of a bigger wheel). For a long time, the standard sized wheel was the only one you could get, aside from the very rare Large Spoked Train Wheel (29mm). Now, LEGO makes a steam driver wheel and BBB wheels has a variety of sizes (his medium driver could be interesting of you decide to go 10-wide) but the costs do go up. Dan-147

I remember that set, I got one in the 80's after my dark age and before my gray age (period where I had a keen interest in LEGO but my financial situation was a nightmare, hence no LEGO purchases). It also came with then-ordinary wheels and a set of threads so it wasn't strictly limited to trains. It kind of fits with LEGO's present emphasis on cross-theme kits. I know that the couplings and wheels (including the small ones with Technic axles) are available on the on-line pick-a-brick. Maybe they should replace two of those awful Bionical parts with the big steam drivers and the blind drivers. As far as instructions go, maybe some of our steam AFOLs could set something up? Dan-147

I feel the same. I couldn't bring myself to buy expensive 3mm rigid tubing, stuff it with a piece of wire, cut it up and bend it to the proper shape for my diesel-electric locomotives. Since I was making it non-purist by putting a wire in it anyways, I figured I might as well take a tubing that came that came with the wire already in it (electrical wiring). Here in North America, 14 AWG solid copper wiring is the best match. Black, red and white are readily available. Blue , green and yellow can be found but are less common. I cut it over-length, bend it to the desired shape before cutting it slightly longer with wire-cutting plyers. I use a file to bring it to its final length because it doesn't squeeze the end and I get a nice, round square-cut end. For black wiring, I usually touch up the end with a black permanent marker to hide the copper shine. When I get a chance, I'll post a picture of my loco. Dan-147