falconluan
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Everything posted by falconluan
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Greetings, I began working on the instructions for it and now the chassis is finished. Still lots of work left to be done, please stay tuned. -
@Jundis That's an interesting idea, I'll give it a try by filling the gap between the lift arm and top edge of hood and check the result. Still the lost of parallel relationship bugs me somewhat. Hi @zoo I need something to hold the hood tilt angle rigid, it doesn't show well in my pics, the 2L 41677 part at the left end of the "grey stripe" is connected rigidly with its right hole. If using a regular gray lift arm for the stripe, I'll need some connectors like 15100 to connect the both ends of it to form multi dimension angles, it then cannot help keep the hood angle rigid anymore. The hood has very limit available room especially in its front due to the fake engine inside it... Still, I'll try some more times, maybe I can find some good solution
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A small update on the hood and steering column. The steering wheel is sitting higher than ideal, I ran out of ideas to improve... Now I need rework the front linkage to make it more sturdy and then only some misc stuff like mirror, exhaust pipe are left to be done.
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As with the other tractors in this thread, I will make instructions for it too, please stay tuned.
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You are correct on this. After recheck some images with Sariel's scaling tool, the slope of my hood is indeed too flat. The hood in last pic has some slope at the top, the end is 0.5 stud higher than the front, it's not obvious. I think I need some more redesign work here, since the white strape is in parallel with the hood top edge. It will become madatoray if the slope is more steeper than current setup.
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Rebuilt the hood, I don't like the holes either(They were used to represent the massey word on the bonnet, but it didn't work well I think). Also improved the gap version, hope you like the new one
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There are still lots of detail to be addressed, the overall setup and shape have been finalized though. There are some openings for ventilation on the bonnet, tried to mimic them but not satisfied with the results enough, another solution is don't have gaps at all. Which one do you prefer?
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That's very true. When building the drive mode switch, I felt that I was basically trying to fill every single cubic place of the central tunel structure. Now I'm trying to re-route the front PTO from the centor instead of previous position. Then let's have it!
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Some update: I ditched the small turnable in the front axle using the big ball joint instead. By doing this, I can have more length for the fake engine, it also can prepare adding suspension to the front axle. Squeezed in a 4wd/rwd switch. Still figuring out the place for the control lever though. Rebuilt the rear hitch by making it more sturdy and compact. The front hitch needs to be rebuilt as well. The cabin and rear fender are almost finished. Will probably make a hole in the roof for HoG steering.
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Wow, that is a very informative comment, thank you @Jandel47 You are correct, the diecast model is a 7480. And because of that I was planning to build a 6480/7480 at the beginning, yet to find the 6-cy engine is quite a challenge. Even I get rid of the small turnable to allow the steering rack moved further back, there is no easy way to have a 6 pin thin beam setup easily for the engine. If use a normal beam instead, it means more height(5L) and the available height under the front part of hood is 4L... Based on my very inaccurate measure, the ideal wheelbase is between 19 and 20L, current setup is 20L, I can shorten it after the central structure is finished and it stills looks too long. Then I'll keep the wide fender and consider it a 64/7480 with wide tires
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Hi @Jandel47, thank you for your offer for help , also if you don't mind, please feel free to point out the places of it you think needs to be improved. That's a very detailed info which I didn't know before. I knew that that are two different looks of the hood of the 6400/7400 tractors, and I'm planning to build the newer version. A quick google search told me that there are other difference between them like engine, suspension, etc. Basically, my target is the die-cast model like below: Currently, I'm working on the rear fenders, and I made two versions, a wide one and a narrow one, the I checked the "Farmer Phil" YT channel where he has a wide tyre 6499, the red potion of rear fender does cover almost all the width of tyre. So I think the wider version is better, although it has a down side of more red 3# connectors are needed. What do you think? Thanks @1gor for your suggestion. Here is a closer look of the hub support structure. Due to the space for pivoting, the space above the 1L beam(between 6536 and 41677) needs to be not occupied. So if a T shape beam put there, only its end tip pin hole is available to be used which is not very stable as well.
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[MOC] Claas Cougar 1400
falconluan replied to Jundis's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
My topic is this one I've managed to make an axle connection avail place at the wheel hub steering link connection point, it may not be ideal but it is the best I can do at the moment. -
The chassis is somewhat finished, there is very limited space since a realistic scaled chassis width is 5L. Also since it is now a 4 cylinder engine, I think I'm now building a 6400 series
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[MOC] Claas Cougar 1400
falconluan replied to Jundis's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
A very interesting machine you've picked. Looks like the axle with black simple fenders(hard to tell it's front or rear) are not swingable in your model, not sure if it can in the real machine. Currently I'm struggling building the front fenders on my tractor. Only have very limited space around the wheel hub... -
Thank you for offering help and you've already helped me As to broken parts, I will definitely ask you for more help when I want to power my tractors
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If you meant that you derailed my moc introduction topic then you did not at all. The discussion above is very informative and I enjoyed reading them very much. I've read and watched the drivetrain pics and videos like you pasted as well and found it very hard to replicate with lego, at least for me to do so ... So I set my minimum goal of my first bigger tractor moc as a directly enlarged moc of my smaller one, I take any function beyond that as a bonus. Then I will try to improve the chassis with following iterations and mocs gradually.
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Some update The height diff between front and rear axle is now reduced to 1 stud as @1gor and @Jundis suggested. Other change includes steering link moved to the backend of axle, making some room for the fake engine. Lot of places still need to be further reinforced.
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That's a good idea Interesting that I planned to make a suspended axle in next MOC as part of iteration process . Another solution I can think of is accepting the 1 stud height difference. Use 20 to 16 gear pair followed by 16 to 16 gear pair to achieve 1 stud height diff. By doing so will create a 5mm higher sitting rear axle than front and it may look better than a higher front anyway.
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Thank you guys for the height suggestion 1.5 studs diff seems to be a hard thing to achieve based on my current setup, no universal connector in the drivetrain. Any further suggestion? I'll think about it as well...
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It is probably not clear enough in the photos, I used a pair of 20 to 12 gears at the central diff front axle output to overcome the wheel speed difference .
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After some break, I started my larger scale tractor moc series. By saying larger scale, I mean using 81mm front tyre and 107mm back tyre. Even at this scale, the available internal space is rather limited, so I started from a full manual moc and maybe would add some electric and/or pneumatic functions to following mocs. Managed to build a proto chassis and this is what I've got so far: I'm trying to replica real tractor drivetrain layout like below as best as I can. Now it has: Four wheel drive with central diff and accelerated front axle Front and back PTO connected directly to engine(I know there is no engine yet) Pivoting front axle As to the target tractor model, I chose the MF 6400/7400 this time, hope you like it. As always, any suggestions, ideas, comments are welcomed!
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Oh, yep, my bad! Many thanks to @Milan and the judges as well and we definitely need you in next contest as well.
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Congratulations to all the winners and all the participants! This was a wonderful contest, we all had much fun. Thank you @Jim for all the efforts, gentility and patience during the contest, please keep up the great work and we all need you there for next contest!
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Hi everyone, I've finished the forth one of the series: Steyr Terrus Features: Pivotable solid front axle HOG steering Adjustable front hitch Adjustable rear hitch Rear PTO connected directly with rear differential Detailed interior and decorations Modular design: chassis, rear hitch, cabin are built separately Just like it's real world counter part, Steyr Terrus and New Holland T7 are basically siblings, so the cabin, fenders and chassis of this tractor are same as my New Holland T7. The hood is newly designed. Scale-wise, this MOC is larger than a 1:32 model as it shows in pics. Instruction at RB is here More pics are at here Hope you like it. Now I'm working on their other real world sibling: Case IH Optum, stay tuned if you are interested.
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Yes! and also Case IH, Massey Furguson and Deutz, these many brands are either a good thing or bad thing Will definately update the instruction once I've done the Steyr, only with virtual build now since I've not got my hands on those red wheels yet