zephyr1934

That 100k is for things like your profile photo, conversations, etc. You should host all of your photos for threads on Flickr, brickshelf, or similar. Please do share your photos of the surgery

If the motor was able to pull the train without stopping I can't imagine much damage would have been done to the motor in 5 min. I did have one train stall at a show in such a way that the motor cooked itself (full power but not going anywhere for several minutes before I noticed) but I don't think you had that problem. So if you are having this problem after only running for 5 min I would think it is the thermistor rather than the load of the train.

Ugh! I would suspect that the motor has gone bad. Keep in mind that 4 wagons with 4 12v wheel sets each is a heavy load for a 9v motor. So you probably want to keep your run time down with this configuration. Even with two 9v motors it would still be a heavy load. I know that I had problems with one superchief locomotive and 5 santa fe cars with a single 9v motor, and the 9v wheels have a lot less friction than the 12v wheels. You might want to convert to roller bearing wheels to GREATLY reduce your friction. You can probably get a feel for pulling heavy trains by monitoring the temp of the motor over time. This would be a one time calibration for a given type of train, e.g., 4 cars, one loco and one motor. Run the train as you like it, then about every five min stop and feel the motor, when it starts getting warm to the touch is when you should give it a rest. Note how much time has passed since you started and this is probably about how long you want to run without a break to let the motor cool down. (disclaimer- while this is what I would do, I make no guarantees that it is actually safe for your motors, so proceed at your own risk) At any rate, I have had brand new 9v motors burn out after two days of running at a show even though I would run at most 2 hr on 2 hr off. In terms of motor repair, here's some good links https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/83667-fixing-a-9v-lego-train-motor-with-a-pf-lego-motor/ https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/102241-repairing-worn-out-contacts-on-legacy-9v-train-motors/ Interesting, thanks for the info.

definitely captures the spirit of those minimalist locomotives. It would be interesting to see if it works in real bricks

First off, from your layout it looks like you have a diverging switch right after a curve. That alone can lead to problems with the train coming out of the curve and picking the switch. Probably worse when the locomotive is actually being shoved and also worse when there is a long wheelbase. Second off, I have had problems with TrixBrix switches, but I suspect (and hope, since I've since bought some of their slip switches) it was due to how I was using them. I had them in a dogbone configuration with a R40 curve, TB switch, turning loop. So the layout was exactly the situation I noted in the first point, only worse. I do think that the mechanism in the TB switches is not as nice as that in the lego switches. So when the train ran through the switch the point might not have come all the way back to neutral. Thus, leaving a little gap that increased the possibility of picking the switch. So I would try paying attention to whether running through the switch in the opposite direction (such that the points spring back) increases the chance of problems. If so, you then know that with TB switches you need to be careful to reset them after such a movement. Next, you might want to try putting 1 straight segment between a curve and a diverging switch (or better 2 if you have space). Even if you don't have space to keep it this way if/when the problem occurs you could do a temporary modification to diagnose the situation. But be careful not to adjust how the switch is set, in case it is actually due to the points not returning all the way.

Looking good, and studs will always be a classic lego feature. Always neat to have a spot on train that also shows what its made out of.

Not just a pretty looker, that's some serious engineering in that build. Amazing work! And here's to your next 8k posts (grin)

I'd suggest designing it so that you can swap between the two options. Having the coupler and stairs integrated with the body will look better for display, but for operation around curves they need to be part of the truck. There's a good chance that if you build it for a straight track layout that you will eventually expand to a loop and will need the truck mounts, but if you design it for both formats you can't go wrong.

Wow! Not just the 80's sets, a lot of idea book elements in there too. The kid in me just passed out on the floor.

Boo! Keep us posted about any other discoveries, thanks for all the exploration thus far

Ah yes, the small amount of storage on EB is for things like your profile photo, any pictures for posts should be stored on a photo sharing site. Seeing the different angles, a couple of parts you might want to consider, for the cab roof (at which point you could go 7 wide for the cab if you wanted to) for the headlight It would also be interesting to see the bell in pearl gold (even if the prototype has it painted gray) and the number boards in black. Also, I suspect you would want a L motor instead of an M motor. At any rate, looking good

That is an amazing piece of work, great prototype and an equally great job reproducing it!

I bet you need the remote... but if you do then BlueBrixx should have included a warning in the listings. You might be able to talk them into free shipping for buying a remote if that is the case. Failing that, tell them that you have already begun your review on Eurobricks...

From the outside they all look the same, so go with the cheaper as long as the inside meets your needs.

Definitely a good start and I don't see much to tweak from the profile view except perhaps replace the studs on the cab roof with tiles and extend the deck for the rear runningboards. If you build PF or PUP is there room to hide the battery box and receiver?

They're all good and they're all free.

I don't remember which issue it was in, but all issues of RailBricks are available here. And here's an oldie but a goody narrow gauge build.

On average, yes (grin)

The lego train base and train bogie plate were designed to work together, including the fact that the 2/3 brick height of the baseplate hides the bogie plate. In my opinion the biggest benefit of the train baseplate is the strength to height ratio and the strength to weight ratio. Neither of which is likely to be a limiting factor in your case. And in your case your bogies will likely need to turn further than the lip of the train baseplate would allow. While the bogie plate is a good concept, it is expensive, only available in limited colors, and ultimately is not necessary. Still, the lego bogie plate is a good part as long as you have room for it. There is no need for a custom plate though, I use technic plates (2x6 or 2x8) when I build with the train bogie plates. There are many alternatives to the bogie plate, the 2x2 turntable is probably the most popular alternative, but 4x4 turn tables work too if you don't mind the extra height. There are no rules except those that you make for yourself. There are some people here who regularly build using all sorts of 4 letter words like: glue, tape, paint, saw. There are many others who are strictly purists and will only build with genuine lego parts. There was even one person who set out to only use bricks that were in new condition but manufactured prior to 1990 or some date like that. Most folks seem to be "mostly pure," only turning to third parties for critical parts like track, wheels, stickers, lights, control, etc. that Lego will never produce.

Wow, the prototype is crazy and the build is amazing. Great work! Just one thought, would this part be helpful for the stack:

Wow, they released a whole line of clone PF elements. Presumably bought in bulk from China. Still, if the battery is safe/stable, that would be a cost effective alternative. It would be interesting to hear from people as the gain experience with this.

R24 is very tight, get some plates and some turntables to make some quick and dirty flatcars to figure out what dimensions could negotiate those turns. If you stay 6 wide at the ends of the cars you will also need to have a larger gap between cars

I don't know if it is 5 years, I think the demise of PF and rise of PUP is a possible time to strike. At $50 per battery box someone with a fleet of trains might look track power as a potential. Also, with plastic straight track so expensive, Fx might be able to come close in price for metal track. Still, I agree that it is a risky endeavor. I doubt the backers will get rich of this but I do hope they turn a profit.

Oh, thank heavens they brought us that revolutionary innovation... sigh. Thanks for the info though

I saw with the latest app update that the phone app now offers the option of, "never time out". I assume that still requires the controller (i.e., phone) to be awake and connected though, right? I would love the option to continue running on disconnect for shows or whatnot, but I suspect that will never come with the standard software.