zephyr1934

You do not want to upload any files to Eurobricks except small graphics that you use in your profile or signature. There is very limited space. Anything of even moderate size should go on an image hosting site and be posted as a linked image in EB

Hi MrMeme260, welcome to Train Tech. This thread has been inactive for 1.5 years. Please do not revive an old thread for a simple question. It's an easy thing to miss, but once you get use to the flow of the forum you'll see how old threads popping up like this gums up the works.

Excellent! Could you post an exploded view of a ladder track assembly? Cool, and exactly that, there would be a small number of people who would want that, but those that did would REALLY want it. Those would be the customers with lots of R120 and R104 tracks already, and the 3D printed parts would help sell more R104 switches. I'm in no rush, odds are my next show is more than 6 months off. Yes mostly. My first bullet would only have the top switch and the straight track would cross over a parallel R120 track. My second bullet would only have the bottom R104 switch and ideally it would continue into an R120 curve, so the switch would likely need some funky spacers on all 3 branches. Then the third bullet is the combination of the two.

Nice work! You should show a few more photos in the initial post. Are you going to add containers next?

Is there any possibility of "modifier parts" for these switches in the future? I can think of several geometries where one would need special crossover parts or extenders. I doubt any of these ideas would merit injection molded parts but perhaps they would be profitable enough to justify the design and then 3D printing by Brick Train Depot or similar. 1) spacers for a ladder track in a yard. It would be great to be able to finally make a yard with tracks at the right spacing without the "S" curves of normal lego switches 2) some way to escape a double track curve with R104 on the inside and R120 on the outside where the R104 switch is the first segment in the curve. It could be one or more of the following a crossover piece for the straight off of the R104 switch to cross the R120 track the unusual short track segments necessary to start the R120 curve with an R104 switch possibly both of the above to allow for a double track junction I could see #1 being a lot easier and more popular that #2 (not to mention the fact that it would sell more switches). Anyway, these are just ideas for possible future projects... The switches look great and thank you for bringing these to the lego train community!

Amazing work! From the start V1 was impressive, but each iteration leaves the previous version in the dust. I can't wait until you are able to get the engine out on the mainline at a show and can get pictures and video of it running free.

At that point you are sort of building nested bridges. A potential problem with the technic design is that the pins have a bit of play, so a long bridge will likely sag. Brickshelf is back up, first, here's the bridge I was talking about earlier Though I have yet to test it under extended use it is 64 studs long. The track is just connected to 6x8 plates below. On the left is this design, over a similar span. The key with this build is that every tie in the track is connected to the side walls with a bracket. The side walls provide significant rigidity. You could easily flip the walls so that they were below the track but then you are getting towards the boxbeam above. Meanwhile, PennLUG had an even longer boxbeam bridge that I believe they still use at many of their shows, only differences are that it was better decorated and used 1x6x5 panels, here's a not so great shot of it,

Most likely 3 hole 13 long, but ultimately it would be equal to the spacing of the axles for the wheels. Before ordering rods or more wheels, I would suggest you build up a frame to test the wheels and clearances with the XL wheels since you have them. This way you can make sure the design can handle any curve or switch you plan to put it through before spending money on parts for a design you ultimately have to revise. You can even simulate the XXL, the XL require an 11 long wheelbase while the XXL 13 long. Ideally make sure you have something where the cylinders will go, check the corners of the tender relative to the cab, etc.. While you are at it, you can even test performance on uneven track (unless you only to plan to run it at home, where it is easier to eliminate bumpy track). I'm doing all this myself on a new build, and while the loco would look better with XXL drivers, it is enough of a challenge to make it work on R40 curves with XL drivers.

Yeah, the minimal amount of storage you have on Eurobricks is to store photos for your avatar, signature, etc.. Detail shots for your posts should be hosted elsewhere.

I've found that a sandwich of plates and panels makes for a strong and lightweight bridge, e.g., layers going from top to bottom: track 6x8 plates 1x4x3 panels 6x8 plates If cost and aesthetics are not an issue, there is one person on this forum who makes some really long spans just by making stacks of 4-6 sets of track segments. Then again, if it is functionality you are looking for, perhaps use non-lego for structure and then have a cosmetic bridge facade hang over the edge.

Brilliant!

Amazing build, with lots of great detailing. I like the grills for the railings around the coal bunker and the sextant as what I assume must be the injector.

Yes, if building in real bricks you can always use technic beams as placeholders while getting the mechanicals working. If building digital, there are also LDraw parts for the common rods available on brickshelf... if brickshelf were working (sigh).

You've chosen a really difficult prototype to model. You've done an amazing job capturing the nose.

Okay, seeing the construction of the cab, it might be possible to inset the doors if you don't mind making major alterations. For this idea you would have to add some internal strength to support the nose/cab (which might already be there). So here's my idea, put 1x6 plates behind what is in the above photo, then go with 4 wide doors (and thus, 10 plates tall when snotted). On the bottom a pair of 2x3 white tiles over a plate, and configure this assembly with studs outward, then on the backside (inside of the car) of the plate use 1x2x1x2 brackets (with the half plate bracket stuck into the plate) to convert to studs forward/backwards to tie into the windows in the top of the door. The windows could be a stack of: 2x white plate 1x trans brick, 2x white plate 1x white plate 1x trans brick, 1x or 2x white tile. The 2x plates would then be used to tie into the brackets on the bottom. Unfortunately brickshelf is down or I would post an image. I'm not sure what this would do the proportions though.

Looks amazing in brick and the fall leaves are a great touch (and the Disney train art on the wall in the waiting office). One thought, for where the roof over the bay window meets the rest of the roof, did you consider the newish triangular tiles? I know it would break the 1x tiles as shingles pattern, but the disruption might be worth it.

Your options for brick built rods are fairly limited. The easiest option is either full technic beams (the width of a 1x brick) or half technic beams (1/2 the width of a 1x brick) the former are available up to 15 long the latter only out to 7 long. Cale's half pin between two bars is the best solution I've seen for pistons/crossheads. Unfortunately all of my examples are on brickshelf and brickshelf is down at the moment (sigh). Assuming it comes back up, my modification for the lone ranger train is a pretty good pure rendition of this solution (the instructions show a 3 hole 9 long rod, but you could replace that with a 9 long technic beam). In lieu of the full instructions, at least I have a photo elsewhere, Note that you can also just use studs with open holes as found on many brackets) for holding the bars, e.g., Again, there are instructions for these examples on brickshelf, but the site is down at the moment. Now if you are looking for custom rods, the above images give an example of what I produce, a lot of the history is in the aforementioned thread, and the current shop is at http://TrainedBricks.com, you can use the "contact us" if you have questions.

I thought the same thing, a 1/2 plate inset would look great on the doors, but I didn't say anything because that has got to be really hard to do with a studs forward build as used and is necessary for the window design.

That is a great rendition in Lego of the real deal. That is a clever solution for the rear view mirrors, but the whole windshield construction is very complex. Great work! With the shrouding around the wheels you might want to build that bit up (in random bricks/colors if necessary) to test the clearance on curves to make sure it works. That's the sort of thing that you just have to try to find out. But even if you do have problems it looks like there is enough room to make it work. If you build another car you will also probably want to test the coupling the same way.

Great revision and I keep noticing lots of great detailing, e.g., the bits on and under the nose.

I always thought of 3677 and 4512 as being a revisit to 4564. But they are all good.

In an ideal world I would suggest going with an all technic frame, from motor to wheels, 4 wide (except the wheels). That should get you the spacing you need and the strength that you want. Then you can either attach the body to the frame using various techniques, or just set it on top as a removable shell. Trouble is, building in technic requires a whole different set of parts and unless you already have an extensive collection, the only easy way to do so is digitally. Or if you want to stick with brick built, perhaps dropping the large gear for a small bevel gear and then coming out of the motor use this gearbox

On the one hand, the diameter of the boiler seems way too large for the width of the locomotive to be a standard steam engine. On the other hand, if you drop the tender, then it looks like a "fireless locomotive," e.g., Meanwhile, the doors on the side of the cab has a classical feel to it, very 12v era. However, depending on what you are modeling, it might be unprototypical (e.g., most US steam locomotives don't have doors).

Welcome to Train Tech. What a way to introduce yourself, indeed, great job. I like how you used the "space" to create the angled windows on the front. One small suggestion, if you could extend the snotted tiles to the middle of the car it would eliminate the half plate jump currently there (unless that is a feature of the prototype you are modeling, in which case, never mind). In terms of building your own motor side, being 7 wide is definitely helpful since it gives you a little more space to work with. In your build it looks like you would have to come from the ends of the motor. You can clip a 1x 4 or 1x6 brick or plate in the hooks on the bottom end of the motor and secure it in place from above using a plate or tile off the top of the motor. From this you can then do clips e.g., for a hose or bar to extend over the side of the wheels that you can then clip off of or studs for snot. Though a brick built truck would give you a lot more flexibility in detailing, e.g., this hard to see example (it is so dark that it is almost not worth showing, but the key feature is that it has robot arms poking out between the wheels to hold a bar that then has 1x1 plate with clips hanging off of it)

Now that's a real knuckle coupler... Then there's the forthcoming BMR couplers