clarkdef

I really get excited seeing how people can put together such machines, I cannot my brain is simple lol. It's good you have had revelations with your project!

I looked into those rechargeable lego batteries, but then when I saw the price I looked away haha. Also the thing is with em or the other battery boxes is that they can only power one buggy motor, any more buggy motors and the power functions circuits kick in and stop the fun. I think your plan is good, just make sure that you order a well test module as they can have problems, most being used and REALLY abused

No sorry. I just bought one on bricklink, should take all of a month to get to me lol. Im building a dirt hillclimb vehicle and I need something to climb a section of a mountain, so I need distance of the RC stuff, hopefully it works properly... I think it will be too big for your realistic street bike, however I feel you can exacerbate the look to be a bottom heavy wide body beast, maybe a hillclimb freak of a bike ;) with a power puller wheel at the back!!!

Is it the fact that the xl motor has to move it quickly for it to balance? If so then yeah none of the pf gear will do a better job, two large motors is your best bet but they are still not ideal. Buggy motors are awesome two will definatly move it quickly but the receiver might prove hard to hide... You look like you know what your doing by the quality of your design so im sure you have thought through all the posibilities.

Ah dammit! I'm using the RC gear, I only have two switches to work with..

Now that's cool, and very compact. Might save those rubber parts to wishlist

Yes fantastic, that's what I want thanks. Lol so simple I feel dumb...

I more mean a vehicle has to have suspension extension. For example if a race car (or any car) accels of a corners apex the front will lift, to keep tyre contact stong the suspension must have the ability to apply pressure on the front wheels while still dealing with bumps. Without extension it cannot happen, steering feel will become loose and the vehicle will understeer. This is what I mean and this is very true in proper suspension setup for all cars, albeit on race cars the ratios are different and the scale of travel is smaller (depending on the track and vehicle type) but the rule is the same a vehicle cannot be on it's toes.I would like to see just one set of the technic range teach proper suspension setup. No model ever has which isn't good for kids learning. P.S Dampers would be nice too...

Awesome car and you even motorized it, however I just want to raise something that I keep seeing with MOCs everywhere. The suspension always sits at full extension, kinda like a car on it's toes, it should sit at a halfway point. Now I know it probably doesn't matter to most but I feel sorta passionate about it. Nice video editing too

I looked the instructions up and studied it, I am not 100% sure but I think it's a specialty part, the piece is at the start of instruction book 2 http://cache.lego.com/upload/contentTemplating/Technic2BuildingInstructions/otherfiles/downloadB99A0DCCFF2AAF4774C8F6CB58DB2D7C.pdf

Would anyone here know how to build one of these things, just like in a bicycle. I am making a geared down R/C car and I would like it to coast. Ratio is 1:3 so the engine brake is very strong. Cheers

But don't you need two battery packs to power them? Seems like xl's do more with one battery pack?

Yes that would make sense because it's always ver y sunny when I take it out. Thanks.

Cool, that set leaves it's self open for modification there is a lot you can do to enhance it. One thing I wish someone could change would be the steering sweep.

How are you getting such a great distance on control out side? My pf only works about 2 meters from the receiver?

I have been building a similar project, the plain truth is lego motors are weak, but the challenge of getting something that isn't designed to go fast, go fast is quite a fun task. The only thing which isn't fun is the cost of the parts, because ideally you want the best lego has to offer. I have been using a drill motor which 9v powers nicely it's really got some power. If you want to stay strictly lego its gonna cost, but I would say: 4x buggy motors, 2x 6272c01 Battery box and receiver, 1x steering motor, pf extension wire. This would give you awesome possibilities for a great car. You also need transmitter and 2x ariels to go with 6272c01, it's the best option because of more running freedom outside. Your gear ratios will depend on what tyres you use, and weight of vehicle. How fast do you want to go?

I used to dream about this car when I was younger, looking back it's simplistic design makes me wonder, why do I prefer it's look to the modern technics cars? It isn't as good, but I prefer it..

Yes! The servo motor broke when I loaded one side of it in one of my own creations, I put an axle on the front face side of the servo for a front steering system. The orange plastic piece broke out when the motor felt too much resistance. The tollerance should be higher, a motor should not be able to break it's output shaft holder on its own strength.

I had two Large's combined and uni joints lined up beside the diff (typical config), when the tyres stalled the motors, the uni joints were not harmed. Although the torque was spread out over two uni's one on either side of the diff. I find that they break when rotational speed is high then a sudden stall.

Wow thanks for this info I nearly spent a lot of money on bricklink my friend! Yes 4 battery packs is way too much weigh and space, it wouldn't get up the hill! My limit for battery packs is 2. According to 'Lego Motor's Chart' This is what I worked out and you are spot on my friend. 1x Buggy Motor: Power output 4.96, cost high - 55grams - one battery/rx + 496 divide 55 p/w ratio of 9.01 2x XL Motor: Power output 5.30, cost moderate - 138 grams - one battery/rx = 530 divide 69 p/w ratio of 3.84 2x L Motor: Power output 4.28, cost high - 84 grams - one battery/rx = p/w ratio of 5.09 I have built the chassis and I am very proud of it, took 2 weeks.. Buggy motors are the way, I do have another idea to avoid this computed limitation muhahahahaaaaa

Hi all I signed up to this forum to get good advice on which motor to use on my project. I am building a rwd hill climber my goal is to climb a certain dirt mountain section post a time then try and beat it every year. I have a plan of using 6 Large motors using two battery packs per 3 motors, but the thing is I don't know how many motors my batteries can actually power properly, the batteries are 1.2v 2100mah, < can 6 of these power 3 large motors? Or am I best to go with 4 XL motors? Or though I don't know if my batteries can power two of those either... I am fairly new to this new type of technics my last set before the new stuff was 8880 supercar So in conclusion: 3 large motors powered by 6x 1.2v 2100mah batteries, left rear wheel. 3 large motors powered by 6x 1.2v 2100mah, right rear wheel. Total 12x 1.2v 2100mah batteries and 6 large motors. Hope I make sense...