Dav1d

I have spent a lot of timed thinking about buying 60423 the Downtown Street Car(red tram) LEGO 60423 Downtown Streetcar and Station | Brickset wondering if it would work with a 9V motor. After seeing one at a show, I thought it could be modified but I didn't like the long coupling bar Therefore the first step was to replace it with a shorter bar - it still goes round the "S" bend. Now I could add the motor - the motor wheels are much closer together than the original carriage wheels, and so wasn't sure if making the carriage 16 studs long would be too much for the couplings. But it works. You can see I'm trying it on the most difficult "S" bend I could find. I then just needed to add the carriage sides using basic bricks. - you can see the spare parts left over. But each of the three carriages have their own door, the passengers cannot move between them. There is now no door on the centre carriage! Therefore the carriages needed further modification to add a corridor. Here you can see the finished tram, and the spare parts that are left. I only used basic black bricks & plates and red bricks. It does run well - going round the "S" bend.

I was looking for a better version of this shop poster - I could not find one.

Thanks, I used this method - this was the "recommended method" - but this is a simple alternative method that has worked.

I have used the recommended way to repair 9V connectors. You need three hands to take the connectors apart and occasionally the small triangular metal connection breaks and sometimes you need to have a second go as the metal connector hasn't pierced the insulation. But I have found two out of three work successfully. I have a Airport Shuttle and with age the insulation is deteriorating and breaking off, therefore I decided to try repairing the insulation, rather than taking it apart. I used Waterproof Liquid Insulation Electrical Tape - Waterproof Liquid Insulation Electrical Tape Fast Fixed Dry Glue Sealing U4S4 | eBay The example image they show doesn't look neat, if you take care you can make it better. I was at a show this weekend and it has worked successfully, running for the two days.

There has been no discussion on the station - I think it looks interesting - wonder if the sketch & description is to get round the problem of leaks.

I now see how Backspace works - when you are adding track - pressing Backspace doesn't work, you have to click on the track join, then press Backspace. Also I couldn't get Delete to work. It would be good if you could select a track element then press Delete. I agree that elevation changers are not necessary or polarity checks, but other parts are important and maybe an easy way to design your own parts.

I'm still using Track Designer - it does everything I need. It would be nice to have plastic as well as 9V track. Matt Bates did a great job and over 20 years later it is still being used. I gave you tool a try, it looks, as you say, like a very simple version of Track Designer. If you were to add more functionality (couldn't deleted a track element) it could be very useful. Well done, I hope you continue with the development. David

Has anybody fitted a 9V motor to the 60423 tram?

Here is the 4553 Train Wash in action at Cupar Model Railway Show. I have been working my way through my collection, this time displaying trains from 1997-2002 which included the Train Wash. I had bought it, built it and ignored it, but by moving the brushes one stud back from the track it works well. I had never seen one in action before. Sorry I have never shared a video before.

I've been displayed my 9V trains for many years at shows and never had any motors burn out. I try to keep my trains short and only have one motor per train. I find it better to have several short loops of track rather than one long loop. Occasionally a motor will cut out, so I put it in a siding for a rest and it works later (there must be a heat cut-out). I do try to keep my track clean.

Could you put the motor between the carriages as in a Jacobs bogie ?

I've been waiting for a Friends train - we just need LEGO to produce one - they have done everything else with Friends.

It was a joy to work with Holger on this project. I had been disappointed that no English version was available, so thought about translating it for my own use. On contacting Holger we decided to work together to create this translation. I thought I was an "expert" on 12V trains but I learnt so much on this adventure. the book is not just about sets but as the translation says "LEGO Railway Wold - The 80's: Models, Landscapes, Set" - it also includes details of specific LEGO train parts/features. There was a review of the German version here New book on 1980s trains now available | Brickset

I still use Track Designer. I wonder if Matt Bates is still around? It is no longer supported but here is a link The LEGO® Train Depot (diesel-dave.com)

R32 & R40 would be too close. You normally need space between them depending on the overhang of your tram. I only have standard R40 track. To get different radius I add the odd straight between curves (the more straights the bigger the radius). You could add four straights to a circle, one in each of the the N/E/S/W positions to give a larger 'radius'. You really need to try it with your tram(s).