DrJB

First, let us define Power ... Power = Force × Velocity = Torque × Angular Velocity Thus, ideally, you'd want a couple of mated gears (same number of teeth, spinning at the same RPM, then you want to measure the torque supplied to one, vs. the torque available on the other gear. What is difficult here is to estimate 'parasitic' losses'. For example, there will be friction between the axles holding those gears and whatever holes they go through. I bet the losses from friction there are higher than losses due to gears meshing. After all, gear meshing is 'almost' a pure rolling between the teeth involute surfaces. The other complication is that such power loss most likely will depend upon the actual RPM of the teeth and torque applied. Any Gears expert on the forum?

Just curious ... Realistically, what can you do/build with those that you cannot with a Mindstorms set? I understand the number of inputs/outputs is a higher, but you do need an old computer to run the system, and the programming may not be as 'advanced' as today's intelligent brick ... or am I missing something fundamental?

Very nice ... I like how you motorized the claws and made it all very dense/compact. Any chance for building instructions?

Looks like the Technic Theme has lost its 'mojo' ... just repeats now, humm ... are we/they going through another dark age?

I found this on youtube. The WL does look nice, and apparently several motorized functions. The one 'complaint' though is ... seems TLG is running out of ideas and revisiting old issued sets.

This is definitely a set destined to the 'Spare Parts' Bin...

Are you talking about the power functions remote, the EV3, the one in the RC cars, or something else?

Nicely done Blakbird ... you've done it, and now I want to build it. Placing an order for chain links as I'm not sure I have enough ...

Sounds like there are several Mechanical Engineers on this board ... good to know, I'm one as well.

Good point, I should have been 'clearer'. It is my readings about the challenges various MOCcers were having with replicating collective/cyclic that led me to read more about how helicopters work. This was about 10 years ago, when one of the early Lego helicopter came out (black with fiber optics). 1. http://carol.wins.uv.../~leo/lego.html 2. http://lego.roerei.n...-rotor-demo.htm While there are no 'official' parts that replicate helicopter blade control, the closest I've seen is in Efferman's thread (corner, he has an attempt there). Nicely put, and fullly agree.

You want to test your patience and perseverance ... try doing a saltwater/reef fish tank :)

I stumbled upon this on a French site. Rather fascinating by my book. It's a cable car system with fully working gondolas. Have a look!

It seems we have two 'groups' of answers, those 'technical' (as I intended) and those with a broader scope ... Keep them coming, it's always interesting.

No, this is not a 'social' thread ... The idea here is to compile all the interesting mechanisms that you learned from Lego (and this forum). Most likely, if it weren't for Lego technic, you'd have never come across such mechanisms in your life. For me, these are the following: 1. How helicopters work: Cyclic vs. Collective Pitch 2. Unimog: Portal axles for large ground clearance 3. Tatra suspension 4. Shock/Springs orientation in F1 cars: not the same as the car you drive to work. What other 'interesting' mechanism/contraption can you think of?

The reason no one has responded is .... Because they're busy building such contraption, following the instructions you provided ...

I think AndyCW is right, the design allows for a kingpin inclination. The top and bottom connection points need NOT be on the same/aligned holes. All you need for a kingpin is to connect the Upper and Lower control arms to different holes (not aligned). It is however a FIXED angle and no room for adjustment.

It just occured to me that, the MkI black SUV looks very much like a Honda Pilot (from recent years)

Makes you want to get an 8420 just for the front disk brake ...

Looks nice, but a small recommendation. There are 4 holes (female pins) in the planet carrier part, and 3 (male) pins on the other side. Such 'asymmetry' would make for an 'odd' part. Might be worthwhile to reduce the number of planet gears to only 3. Also, the pin holes on the planet carrier might be difficult to mold (though not an issue for 3D printing). Such 4 holes would need to have the diameter stepped up at the other end (for the pins to click/expand/lock). For this to happen, the pin holes must go through the part and come out at the other side ... which is not trivial to do with the 3 male pin connections at the other/outer side.

While most people are 'debating' the 2014-2H sets ... here in the US we can't even buy the 1H sets yet. Any word from this, from the Lego Ambassadors we have in this forum? My suspicion is that the 2013 sets did not sell too well and there are still plenty of them in stores.

Looks very interesting but, if you're trying to 'commercialize' this product, you need to look at what others are doing. While at Brickworld, I've seen few 'versions' of LED add-ons for Lego (ALL Lego, not just Technic). There is some interest out there, but many 'hard-core' Lego MOCcers are 'purists'. It might be worthwhile to ask the question: If you built it and have ait available for sale: 1. How many people would buy it? 2. How much are they willing to pay for it. Do not get me wrong, it is a nice idea, but personally, I do not buy everything I like, and I'm sure the same is true for many people on here. That'll help you decide whether this is a project for personal satisfaction or if you want to turn it into a $$$ making adventure. Good Luck either route you take.

Beautiful Piece!!! Star Wars Storm-Trooper ... (Guessing)

The only way I found to use my 64-bit Windows 7 PC with the RCX is ... by installing a VM (Virtual machine). Is that what you did as well?

I've looked in all places I know but can't find differences between the two sets. Yet, on bricklink, the prices are VERY different. Anyone got both and can tell what the differences are? Is it the metal vs. cardboard case ?

In the first picture, the cardan appears to be not connected ...