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DrJB

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by DrJB

  1. DrJB
    I was afraid this was going to be the case ... thank you for 'confirming' my fears :)
  2. DrJB
    I'm looking for this specific part/assembly but can't find it in LDD. What makes it complicated is that the bricklink designation ( x873c01) does not resemble any I've seen for other lego parts. Any one with a clue?
  3. DrJB
    Thank you ... I am sure many AFOLs would be willing to make a small donation to the family, just to show appreciation.
  4. DrJB
    Now this is getting serious ... and I like how this discussion is going, and as well how you offset the two half-shafts by 30 degrees. All I need is try this at home (after work) ... Also, if I recall, there was another way to move the pistons of an engine, not just the starndard lego cranks. I believe this was in one of the recent motor-bikes.
  5. DrJB
    I do not follow closely the release date of non-technic themes, but for sure Technic gets released AFTER Christmas. This question may not be relevant in other themes as, from my understanding, sets get released continuously during the year ... or am I wrong?
  6. DrJB
    Any updates on where we stand vis-a-vis this 'situation' ? Has anyone contacted Sergio's family to get a feel as to how we move forward?
  7. DrJB
    I like the single thick manual, but sometimes putting a lego set together is a family affair at home ... I let my wife/son do the step-by-step in the first manual, and I jump ahead and do subsets in subsequent manuals. With the single book, that won't be possible, but there is always the iPad and downloadable PDFs from TLG.
  8. DrJB
    The electrical motors (and many other transducers) output POWER (not rpm, nor torque). Essentially, they are power transfer devices and they take electrical power (watts=current×voltage) and make it into mechanical power (watts=torque×rpm or watts=force×speed). As such, all these devices have what is called an output characteristic i.e., what is the max rpm they can output for a given torque (or vice versa). Typically the larger motor will output higher power (not necessarily faster speed) and you need to decide what exactly you're after. If you want to spin something that has very little friction (e.g. spirographe on this site), then a small motor (M/L) will do. However, if you want a motor to lift the heavy boom of a modded 42009, you may need either an L or XL motor. Hope this makes sense, else, ask again.
  9. DrJB
    Thank you Jim ... as long as we don't see a remake of last year's ... i.e., having to wait until June ... I wish they released them a bit sooner ... got 2 weeks off during the holidays and could spent some serious lego time with the kids (hence, other thread I started)
  10. DrJB
    I came across this photo on Crowkiller's MOC pages ... first time I see a 4L differential in black ... http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/crowkillers/2012awdConcept/awd986.jpg
  11. DrJB
    Many 'businesses' have aligned the issuance of new products just in time for the holiday season ... be it Apple and Samsung with their tablets, Razor with their wheeled toys, or the many movies hitting the theaters or on BluRay and yet, TLG somehow has a 'release' schedule that is not-in-sync with the holidays. I bet that if, for instance, TLG decided to release the 1H2015 sets in November Iand I'm talking Technic sets), many more people will buy them. What's the logic behind such 'strategy'?
  12. DrJB
    So, news yet as to when we'll see the 1H sets on the shelves? Yes, I'm thinking of getting the snow vehicle and the LeMans green car.
  13. DrJB
    Darn ... I missed that ... lol
  14. DrJB
    I did manage to get mine to work. You need to insert a null-modem cable between the USB-serial converter and the box. Try the first link below, that is how I got my Interface B to work... so much that I went ahead and bought a second one with loads of sensors and the old 9V motors. You should also search for RoboLab (available off the net) and install it, you'll have fun once it's up and running. Also, and unlike the Mndstorms sets, Interface B can interface with 16 transducers/sensors ... Now you can do a LOT with that. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=91626&st=0 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=67665 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=94141
  15. DrJB
    Aye aye Captain Very nicely done. I like especially how you did the 1/2 offset. While I reckon my reaction to the hypoid comment may not have been fair, I must admit this thread has generated more ideas/discussion than I had intended. And that is all good, as I learned something new today ... that some axes offset (as in hypoid gears) is certanly realizable. Cheers.
  16. DrJB
    There is a MUCH easier way ... go to the Lego website and you can download the instructions for free as a PDF. http://service.lego....inginstructions Just enter the set number and voila! Note that the instructions come in 3x PDFs http://cache.lego.co...ons/4533636.pdf http://cache.lego.co...ons/4529125.pdf http://cache.lego.co...ons/4520319.pdf
  17. DrJB
    If you're after the black panels ... wait for the next BrickWorld and get a pre-owned set from 2012 (Senior Solutions). It came with 28 black panels ... and you can get it for ~$80.00
  18. DrJB
    +1 ... good one! ... It seems we're stuck between RED cars, YELLOW construction machinery and BLACK MOCS.
  19. DrJB
    Thank you. When I started this thread, I had in mind the radical differences between a Lego transmission (6 shafts and 6 couplers) and one that you find in classical (non-automatic) cars with only 3 shafts (input, output, +1 for REV), and the 6 couplers (syncros) aligned one next to the other. Of all transmissions I've seen (and I am a mechanical engineer) I have never encountered one (in real life) whose layout resembles that in 8448/8466. Now, it seems many on here jump to lecturing and assuming the OP got no clue what he's talking about (fine). But for the sake of civility, let us try and UNDERSTAND what the OP had in mind, before assuming he missed the boat and tell him he can implement hypoid gears with Lego (I'd really love to see that!) ... Peace .. and happy building, this is just a Hobby ... and if one can't be 'relax' about it, they should try something else.
  20. DrJB
    I wanted to build a yellow Murcielago, started buying the parts off BL, then yesterday I found one readily built and at a price I could not pass up. So I got it. Took it apart, washed, and now rebuilding in LDD first. Gonna be a loooong build.
  21. DrJB
    Got the 8674 Ferrari and the yellow Murcielago (Crowkillers MOC), both built and very clean, stickers applied on the Ferrari .... $320 both, not the deal of the century, but good in my book.
  22. DrJB
    The #3/4 gray connector between the wheel and hubcap, is that supposed to mimic a brake? Then for sure it rotates with the tires, and thus non-functional, correct?
  23. DrJB
    besides the bucket, the rest are all common parts, right. I want to try with my existing parts first, and decide if it'worth getting. Has anyone tried this? Yes I have plenty of parts and no need to add, at this stage at least.
  24. DrJB
    I do not have the numbers off hand but check philo's web site for max torque/speed for the motors. You'll then know which gear reduction to use.
  25. DrJB
    Thank you very much. Very useful links indeed
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