stefan_betula_pendula

Nice, you captured the shape of the aircraft very well. I remember I have flown the X-29 in 'Jane's Advanced Tactical Fighters' in 1996.

It's the Zorex-220 PF-Excavator by Jurgen Krooshoop. Check out the following links: Jurgen's Technic Corner: http://www.jurgenste....com/zorex.html Rebrickable.com: http://rebrickable.c...20-pf-excavator

Hey folks! I have built a rear steering trailer with one steered axle for long wood or pipes. At the moment the steering is realized by a servo motor similar to the stone trailer truck from Designer-Han. The whole MOC is still work in progress. The transportation device is mounted on a scissor construction and the height can be changed by a mini LA to make it suitable for the Unimog in the case that the springs are compressed. I will try to replace the mini LA by a standard LA. The transportation device just falls down into the lowest position when there is some load on it. The connection bar between the Unimog and the trailer is just not mounted on the pictures. The steering angle with just one steered axle is very small and I'm not very satisfied with this solution. Therefore I searched for an alternative steering method by using the turntable of the trailer. The turntable measures the position of the trailer in relation to the position of the Unimog and transfers this difference directly on both axles of the trailer. The next step is to combine my existing trailer with this steering method. I hope it works... As you can see on the pictures I used a gear combination of 12-12. To get this steering angle in the final model the turntable has to turn more then would be possible. Therefore I will try to play a little bit with the gear ratios to get a reasonable steering angle for both axles although the turntable turns not very much. I think a gear combination of 20-12 or 24-8 should work fine. Unfortunately in the current setup the steering doesn't work 100% accurate. The problem of this steering method is the use of different gears and that there are no gears with an uneven number of teeth existing. My only idea how to solve this is the use of a 24-24 gear combination which compensates this lack of accuracy because the same 24 tooth gear is used inside the turntable. Any ideas how to handle this?

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Unimog Attachment (#8110): Regards, Stefan

My 42000 has the new type of wheel with 6 holes.

WOW, great apocalytic mood! With all the improvised equipment it reminds me a bit of waterworld.

Unimog Attachment (#8110): Functional Grit Box and Spreader Thanks to Designer-Han and also Pat-Ard for his help. More pictures are available on Brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...anbetulapendula Regards, Stefan

Hey guys, sometime ago I got a request via mail from a guy who saw my Unimog at my Brickshelf folder (http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=516426). His name was "Schwarze GummiEnte" and he asked me if he could use my pictures for his own modification. Because he has no own account on Eurobricks I decided to present some of the pictures he sent to me. This request was much more then a reward to me. Furthermore I think it's worth to share it. The shapes of the cab are very interesting and he designed the doors very well. Stefan

Jesus, it works!!! Very well done, I love it!

As already mentioned in the other topic I will try to build a red version. The challenge here is to replace all the LBG parts which don't exist in red but I already checked the instructions and it seems not to be too difficult.

I did a little experiment: If you don't have any spare parts and looking for a shop at BL which have the most unique lots (167 of 184) you have to spend 763,22 euros. And this just gives you 2679 of 3439 parts. BTW: This shop is quite an expensive one but I did this just for fun. Nevertheless spare parts are highly recommended!

Great review, thanks a lot! I wonder why the exhaust is missing in the instructions in contrast to the video of Sheepo!? Although the grey axle besides the battery box makes it easy to add the exhaust.

Looks good! Looking forward to your review. I'll build a red version.

Really outstanding, perfect!

The doors are great and also the side tilting dump bed!

Yes, I will definitely do this as soon as I have a bit more of time. Maybe I can make some small videos of the essential functions without video editing etc. I can't see your point. The portal axles are still part of the Unimog and the ground clearance on the side of the Unimog is the same like the original 8110. It’s also really easy to remove the warning marks at the back so you have a more compact bumper which also increases the ground clearance. Your two gear mechanism was also an inspiration, thanks to you! My objective was to use only 16 tooth gears for the high gear and the combination 8/24 for the low gear. The torgue was such high that the high gear didn't work because the gears got the effect of gearing up (24 to 8) the low gear when the high gear was working. Therefore I had to gear down both gears. Just small improvements but much better!!! Thanks a lot! This is my first Mod since I left my dark ages. There is no gear jumping or something like this. But as I mentioned above I also had to gear down the high gear by the combination 12/20 to avoid gear jumping. Otherwise the torque would be too high, especially when the gears of the low gear (20/12; 20/12) are moving during the use of the high gear. The low gear is especially for the use of attachments or when the Unimog is used as a “quadtrac”. I will try to make some short demonstration videos next weekend.

Yeah, I love it! Well done!

Thanks for all your possitive comments! Yes, they are a quite helpful tool. Otherwise it would be impossible to pack all the wires into such a small space. Furthermore I couldn't close the cab. Brathendel came up with a more compact version of a two gear mechanism some time ago. You may look at post #1189. His drive train is much shorter and also allows the use of the combination 8/24. I would recommend to use his version if your Unimog is less modified and if you have enough space in the rear of the chassis.

Yes, you're right. This was one of my missed objectives... I just needed one more stud to mount two 'liftarm 1x3 thin' but I simply found no space. Any ideas? YOU are the one who have my chassis as a LDD file!

Hello EB members! After a long period of modifying I would like to present my finished modification of the Unimog U400. I decided to build a blue version due to two reasons: I thought with all the winter equipment I already built before I finished the modification it would be too much orange. Furthermore with the available parts in blue it was much easier to close these holes in the roof of the original one (I don't like them). I implemented Barman76's idea of the doors that can be opened which adds a great part to a better realism in my opinion. The mechanism works pretty well, so these credits does he deserve. Additionally, I mounted many tiles to make the doors less transparent. The model contains round about 2.850 parts. The following power function elements are used in the model: 2x IR receiver (1x V1; 1x V2) 1x XL motor (driving) 1x M motor (steering) 2x L motor (front and rear PTO) 1x M Motor (2x pneumatic pumps) 1x pole reverser/polarity switch (operates the pneumatic pumps manually) 1x light unit (head lights; do only work when the driving motor works) 1x Remote Control Unit 1x Speed Remote Control Unit 1x battery box (88000-1; I will try to get a rechargeable battery box for a reasonable price…) I used some harder third party springs for the original shock absorbers. The model weighs 2.7 kilos. Therefore the original springs weren’t able to bring the whole model back to center after compressing. I’m very satisfied with this solution. I used a pneumatic switch at the front and at the rear part of the chassis to direct the air from the pneumatic pumps to the left or to the right pneumatic hose connector. Two further pneumatic switches are mounted at the middle part of the chassis directly behind the front wheels. These switches are operating the pneumatic cylinder to tilt the dump bed as well as the pneumatic cylinders for lifting the cab. The steering of the M motor is geared down as follows: 12/20 directly at the motor and before the knob wheels are working (I decided not to replace the knob wheels with common gears to prevent the gears from jumping although I built a strong locking mechanism for the cab); 8/24 and 12/20 in the middle of the chassis. So the total final gear ratio is 1:8.337. The driving motor is geared down as follows: 12/20 for the fast gear; 12/20 to 12/20 for the slow gear. Furthermore both gears are reduced by a ratio of 12/20 in the portal axles. So the total final gear ratio is 1:2.779 for the fast gear and 1:4.632 for the slow gear. The whole drive train is very long which made it impossible to use other combinations like 8/24 to gear down the motor. As well as the pneumatic trailer for the Unimog I also started to modify the whole model with LDD. This time I got much more problems (always some steps before the finish line) but I got all these problems solved by working out a solutions directly at the model. Especially the arrangement of all the wires was quite a big challenge because the battery box and both IR receivers are placed in the rear of the cab. Finally, I can show you real pictures of the pneumatic trailer attached to the Unimog instead of these I made some time ago with LDD. More pictures are available on Brickshelf: http://www.brickshel...anbetulapendula Thanks for reading and thanks to all of you who gave me inspiration! Regards, Stefan

Great! I tried to use the servo motor in the cab but the whole drive drain is to long to get a reasonable movement directly at the axle. I also tried to gear up the servo motor but this was also a failure...

Great, very realistic!

Amazing details and the parts count is really insane!

Great first modification and also an enrichment for the community because there aren't so many Unimog 6x6 out there! @ Pat: What does the abbreviation PPF mean?