alainneke

Thank you all for the kind words! The software is called 'RailModeller' (shareware for the Mac, see http://www.railmodeller.com/). It's not specifically made for designing LEGO layouts, but it does contain the 12V, 9V and monorail rail sets.

For the past few weeks, I've been busy incorporating occupancy detectors in my (DCC) LEGO train layout. To get this to work, I had to create electrically isolated blocks in my layout: Layout by alainneke, on Flickr (the little red parts are single pieces of flex track) All blocks are connected to a couple of occupancy detectors ('ECoSdetector') using track connection wires. When a train enters a block, current is being drawn and the detector will know that there is a train in the block. When it leaves the block, the current stops flowing and the block is 'free' again. What can you do with this information? Well, for example, you can let robotic cows turn their heads when a train passes. However, I decided to automate the classic 7866 level crossing: When a train enters block 1:3 (or 2:11, when going the other way round), the crossing closes. When both blocks 1:3 and 2:11 are 'free', the crossing opens again. Thanks for watching!

Nice work. I'm also considering adding ballast to my tracks, but it's a real brick-eater! P.s.: when it's autumn, you should but some leafs on the track!

There seem to be at least two different types of wires used in the connection wires. From my experience, the ones that are 'rubbery' (the cables look matte) tend to degrade over time, whereas the ones hat are more 'plasticky' (the cables are shiny) don't. Can anyone confirm this?

Have you tried contacting LEGO customer support? Maybe they can help you...

Wow, that certainly looks nice! I really like the camping area!

Sure, it would be nice to meet a fellow Eurobricks member in real life :) I'm sure we have some interesting thoughts and ideas to share!

Like others have said, I would just wire a PF IR receiver in between the 4,5 battery holder and 4,5V motor: this doesn't require you to replace the motor and battery holder. You'll have to cut up 1 PF extension cable to get this to work: use one half to connect the motor to the receiver (connect the middle two wires to the motor), use the other half to connect the IR receiver lead to the battery holder (connect the outer two wires to the battery holder). Good luck!

You're quite welcome! It's nice to see someone putting this amount of research and preparation into his layout, and the result will definitely be second to none :) I'm not trying to convince you here, but instead helping you to think outside the (9V) box. Combining different generations of electronics is one of the unexpected strengths of the LEGO system. Just take a look at the forums: PF motors on 12V tracks, IR receivers powering 4,5V motors and battery-powered 9V trains which raise and lower the booms of level crossings! If you cannot solve the problem with 9V train motors, why not try to fit another generation of LEGO motors? Actually, I have never been able to overheat - let alone damage - a 9V train motor. The motors are very robust, to say the least. However, I do receive some damaged motors through Ebay purchases from time to time: pet hairs, sand and broken gears. I try to fix most of them, but some are just beyond repair! When I got my Emerald Night, I didn't have a permanent 9V layout and decided the power it as per instructions. Directly powering the driver wheels was more important to me than using track power. Later, having fitted a DCC sound decoder and smok generator, it became obvious that track power was the way to go. I didn't want to lose the powered drivers, so I decided to make my own electrical pickups and fit them under the tender (very prototypical: the engine can't run without the tender!). I made the steel wheels and pickups primarily for power pickup, and can't say anything about efficiency or wear. To me, the fact that they are able to power my decoders and train lights is far more important than any added drag or wear. I'm surely not suggesting to replace all your gear with PF engines! I was merely trying to help you solve the problem at hand: improving the power output of your cleaning train. When adding more 9V train motors doesn't help, you could try to fit PF XL motors. If you need even more power, the Technic RC motor could be worth a try... Investing in the LEGO 9V and 12V systems is obvious to me, as battery-powered systems are too limiting for my needs. However, I do use a fair amount of PF components on my layout: PF M motors for the switch tracks, PF XL motors for some train engines and a lot of PF LEDs to light up the trains and buildings. I don't use the PF IR receiver though, as all the motors and lights are (directly or indirectly) powered from the tracks.

That's an impressive collection! You sure have your priorities set correctly: first the LEGO, than the rest of the house!

I have also heavily invested in the 9V system (heck, I still do), but it didn't stop me from using PF motors. The PF XL motor is very powerful, and the Emerald Night is just not the same without it... Forget about the batteries: if you want to run PF motors using track power, you can use a modified 9V train motor as a power pickup. Just remove the internal motor from one of your defective 9V train motors (which I'm pretty sure you'll have some) and connect the PF motor to the top connector with a PF extension cable. When you don't want open up a 9V motor, you can also use some model railway components for the electrical pickups: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=79145 (sorry, mine are currently still sold out...)

That's a nice build, 'Locomotive Annie'! Don't forget to remove one rail of the display track though :)

Nicely built! I might steal borrow this idea for my own layout... For a more complete clean, I would put a traditional cleaner car (with a cotton roll and a little methylated spirit) behind these cars.

Impressive, very impressive! Please don't stop being addicted to building these great locomotives :)

Thanks for the link '1974'. There are some interesting ideas on that site!

Nice project, I can see a 'Schienenzeppelin' running on the tracks of Toffee Mountain! Be careful using 9V batteries with this motor though, as it's only rated 4V (see backside of connector block)...

Olivia has some serious muscles, jacking up the train like that!

So, I guess that's sorted out :) Im my opinion, the yellow cargo train has the most play value. Both the crane and truck make great additions, and the small cars are nice too. The Horizon Express is a great set, but you need two to make a complete set, and you have to buy all the PF stuff as well. Have fun choosing and building!

One word: Impressive!!! The loss of speed in the train yards is probably due to the large amount of curves and associated friction. According to Philo, a loaded 9V motor draws about 0,40 A. One (1) speed regulator should thus be safe for a 2 engine powered train, while two speed regulators should be safe for 4 engine powered trains. Using 2 speed regulators for 2 engines shouldn't be a problem, as the regulators will only provide the current that's actually drawn by the engines (in this case 600 mA). However, problems may occur when one of the motors gets stalled: the motor will draw all available current (1,5 A) and burn up. You could try to open up a regulator and solder a piece of cable directly to the pads leading to the 9V connector plate. Lead this cable through the housing and use some screw connectors to connect it to the rest of the wiring. 6 consecutive switches roughly equal 12 alternating curves: this causes a lot of friction and drag!

Will you also be presenting your book at his event? Ps: I can see the next world record coming: longest Maersk blue train track!

I agree with 'Spitfire2865': keep the monorail at the side of the layout and don't let it cross the train tracks. Maybe you can put the track in little tunnels and only let the ramp going up (or even better: into) the mountain in plain sight? This way, the train isn't visible all the time and this will make it more fun to watch.

You're welcome! Have fun with the train :)

Sorry for stating the obvious, but you do know you have to push the "go" button several (up to 7) times to make the train move? It sounds like you're running the train on the first speed step, and aside from buzzing, it won't go anywhere... Good luck!

Looking good! Any plans for the monorail? I'm curious how you are going to integrate it into the layout without it being totally out-of-place