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1gor

Eurobricks Grand Dukes
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Everything posted by 1gor

  1. Yes that would be closer to proper bore and stroke representation; example trucks with 19 studs wide chassis are 1:16.5 scale, so bore 1 stud (8mm) could represent 132mm cylinder bore which is more truck like in terms of size than current (1.25 studs 10mm that represent 165mm bore)...but it is just a calculation; the same way gears and suspension parts if calculated would lead to even more disproportions...
  2. @kbalage the part of video when you build rear axles, rear part front part and hood are interesting to see as images (if it is possible) I could look at review and wrote down time in video where it is. Approximate time for screenshots are: ~~ 3:20, 4:40, 5:40, 8:30, 9:50, 10:10 Of course you can PM them if you do not want to reply here. Kind regards
  3. @kbalage first of all sorry for late response but I find your review very simple and informative enough to help people to make decision about 42114 set. Since I use mobile phone I want to ask you for one favour - is it possible to have separate photos of those few building steps that you showed in video review? Thank you
  4. It's OK; every mocer decided what to do... Your 2019 version looks smooth do far
  5. Nice details, but when I red topics title I was hoping that someone decided to build this beauty
  6. Turn frame upside down (there are "sockets" on bottom in which can 24 tooth gear fit without rubbing)
  7. Even better than with Liebherr, despite it is closest scale to Xerion (42054) and Mack...
  8. Yes I was writing about it, but I do not think it will be less than 3 studs, it is more when using it on 11 x 5 H frame with Unimog ball joint that is 2 studs over frame... I should have made images and post it...I think 3L+ diameter as you name it should be (IMHO) a little but (some fraction of millimetre) smaller...
  9. And I had to make complete redesign because I have older ones and they are rubbing on frame. Since white 24 tooth gear with clutch does not rub on frame (but it is not useful for drive) I suppose this could be a big help for next MOC (if they are same diameter)...
  10. I know what you mean; I needed half a year to make optimized chassis for my Fastrac (and now I'm stuck with bonnet; more due time limit than idea but I hope to have some extra time very soon...) Kind regards
  11. I totally forgot about that (even today I saw one backhoe and grader by Volvo by side of the street)...but this does not stop us mocers to make it (some day)
  12. Very nice; you are tempting me to make yellow one some day and perhaps you gave an idea to LEGO company for next Volvo licensed set - Volvo grader...
  13. Just one question; real trophy truck has 40" tires, so translated to your chosen tires it looks like you made 1:15 scaled MOC, or my calculations are were wrong?
  14. It looks really nice; excellent shaping and instantly recognizable
  15. Since it turned out that proper line is very very hard to achieve without holes, I have another try but it is not finished due to missing some parts (which will arrive until mid of July). I use older bonnet as comparison with latest...any comments is appreciated...
  16. Here is another version; not so curvy but proportions are much better; I'll probably make proper part over battery box with slopes 1 x 10 because actually "curvy" part is in the middle... Sorry for bad photo quality...
  17. @Mechbuilds this is a position that I was writing...
  18. My suggestion is - always use direct connection - only one gear and gear rack to prevent slack as much as possible. You can always connect gear 12 tooth directly near servo and use one liftarm behind it since servo has number of connection points... You can also turn it upside down and have 2 studs shorter setup (based on image above)
  19. Due to LEGO limitations it looks to me as very good MOC, but if I understand correctly no suspension and no drivetrain (rear wheel drive + engine)?
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