Lost_In_Noise

Thanks David. It was sort of a joke from my side with the phone number. This set is currently in pieces, and will go to someone who is insterested in taking it off my hands. I don't have the space for this anymore...:S

I don't want to create a list of top10 you-don't-want-these sets, just my opinion. I checked my set-list, and these stand out: 8845: It's just ugly 8859: Too big, ugly, lots of rubber bands which are prone to break, and the over-complicated assembly of the rear mounted harrow. 8841: Non-functional engine. Too narrow tires. 8810: No technical functions. 8826: Just no. 8808: No technical functions. 8210: No technical functions. 2129/8205: One would suffice. 8289: Waste of a thousand pieces. 8071 Bucket Truck does the same with less than 700. 8071: Two functions for 700 pieces is just not enough. 8295: Horrible steering, useless front elevators(?). 1100 pieces of pure crap. 8264: Because it was motorized without a clutch gear. A lot of the helicopters, because they are virtually the same model with other colours. 8052: Too few functions, and a boring color scheme of blue and grey. 8081: 2WD with a 4-cylinder engine is a little too less "extreme".

I agree on the 8479, but that's because I could never get it to work. How were you supposed to know what it does? The scanner didn't make a distinct sound if it caught the barcode, and the motor only seems stalling... Some other candidates is probably in my disassembled sets-bag somewhere

When I started out getting Technic sets in winter 2011, I bought everything I could get in the shops, totalling probably 800 Euros during the course of three months. But that was before I discovered BrickLink. Now I typically place some larger orders totalling 300 Euros each month, depending on what spesific sets I buy. This month was somewhat special, so 700 Euros now. So yeah, a lot. But it's a nice hobby, and my colleague who crashes remote controlled airplanes spends a lot more:D For a total net, I really don't know. Some of the sets don't have instructions and so forth, but I would estimate 4000 Euros. At least that's what I tell my folks:P

I (almost) never build b-models of sets, but 8053s harbour crane stands out as one of the biggest. Although it doesn't have a lot of functions, it works as you would expect a real harbour crane to. 8258's alternate was a good solid build, but I never used the trailer, just swooshed around in the car. 8070s B-model looked awesome, but was a bit dull to play with the only function being openable doors. The 8043 B-model was used to some extent, but was quickly re-built into the main model, because of its pure awesomeness. I couldn't get 8868s B-model to work properly, so my vote would have to go to 8455s alternate wheel loader B-model. It works as good as the main set, and that's my favourite.

Amazing work as always, BricksOnWheels. You should have your own topic maybe for showcasing your work.

I just finished watching you video, and I am very impressed by the works of it. It also look very close to the real thing, and that's always a plus. It looks very amusing to control this destructive unit, any kids dream! Using old bricks to create a worn house is a great approach also. Keep up the good work:)

Formula Flash was released in 1995, contains 414 pieces, and features steering via in-cocpit wheel and a v6 engine driven by rear differential. The original retaill was $54 according to BrickSet, andI ended up paying $35 for my copy in used condition. This is one of the few Technic racecars, the others being the giant 8458 Silver Champion, and the latest addition 42011 Race Car. The parts Rather than wheelhubs made of standard thin liftarms, plates with towball are used in this set. The flex system is used here for steering, containing two Ball connections and one Flex Cable End Double. The thin flex cables used are 6 studs long. When I initially bought this model, it came with the wrong flex cables, thus, the steering didn't work. It cost me 12$ on BrickLink to buy the replacements. Not a whole lot of gears in this set, only an 8T, three 12T bevel and a crown gear are present, along with a differential. A standard Steering wheel is the last "special" part of this set, except the wheels. The wheels are fat racing tires in 49.6x28VR dimension, which are fitted to white wheelhubs. They are also used in 8286 3-in-1 Car and 8445 Indy Storm. Even the 8479 Barcode Multi-Set has a pair, but they are only for decoration. The stickers Okay, here's the problem. There are a lot of stickers, and most of them are even STAMPs. Although they greatly enhance the looks of the finished model, there should have been another way of doing it. I've used a knife to split the stickers, but the end result is not as good as it should have been. Enough facts, let's build! A model: Race Car The main model starts with the bottom, made of bricks. The hinge plates are used to fix the angle of the fuselage, giving the car the typical "race" look. The thin liftarms here will keep the car together once the body is placed. The first half of the body is complete. Note the flex cable running through the 16L brick. The thin liftarms in the back will keep the rear air intake manifold in place. The rear axle with the differential is place. The two thin liftarms (far right) with axle and pin connectors on them will later hold the wing in place. The V6 engine is made old-style; with bricks instead of Engine blocks. The engine is driven by the rear differential via the 8T idler gear. The wheelhubs are made the same way as 8455 Back-Hoe, which is easy and effective for the scale. Next is the body, which is shaped by using hinge plates. Now this is beginning to look like a real race car. Real race cars have some major-sized braking vents. This one even has adjustable(!) mirrors. Rear wing is made with half-pins and plates. A STAMP is placed on top. Adding wheels finishes the model. What a looker! Features Steering(horrible) via in cab steering wheel. No HOG here, waste of precious weight. Engine driven by rear differential: Comparison 8209 Future F1: 8216 Turbo 1: 8458 Silver Champion (Okay, at least some of it): B model: Hot Rod The secondary model also starts with the chassis frame. You can see the differential in the back, and the towball plates for the front wheelbase. This involves using the stickered 1x6 plates and the 1x3 bricks from the A-model. Let's hope those will glue on later. Rather than having a gear rack setup for the steering, it uses a technic cam at one end of an axle, with an crankshaft center piece on the other. As the set of thin liftarms are levered, the crankshaft center rotates. Some pneumatic tubing for exhaust pipes are placed for decoration, along with the upper part of what would have been a wishbone suspension setup. The engine is a standard Technic V6, same as the A model. The flex system is used for steering in this model also. The grille has been placed behind it. Here is a shot of the driveshaft. You can see how the differential drives the 8T gear via the crown gear on a free axle. The cocpit seats are made of black plates. It looks kinda dangerous to be sitting right next to the driveshaft. Let's hope the driver's insured. Lastly, placing the rear rollcage, windshield and wheels finishes the model. You'll notice I didn't apply the stickers. They're all STAMPs, and won't look good on the main model. Features Steering with in-cab steering wheel: Engine driven by rear differential: Lastly, an in-cocpit shot. The blue round bricks do look like instruments. Comparison 8815 Speedway Bandit: 8860 Car Chassis: Conclusion This is my favourite Technic race car, as I am yet to try the new one. It looks as the real deal, and works like one. The fast spinning engine is a nice feature. For playability, it isn't as good, but as they say, looks outdo function. It's certainly more playable than the Silver Champion. As for the B-model, it certainly looks good. The functions are the same as the main model, only the motor placement is the opposite. The only difference is the stickers. How on earth are you going to re-build the main model after removing the stickers? I guess you could glue them on, but that seems like missing the point. Thanks for reading/looking. As always, any questions or comments are most welcome!

You should use an image-resizing tool like eZthumbs, and then post those pictures here, to make it easier to appreciate your work. Some people here are on wireless networks, like myself, and browsing through your full-size Brickshelf folder takes some time. Not to be rude or anything. I really like your work:)

Here's what mine looks like. It is able to fully close and open: Here's a pic of the brick with axle in the right place: These bricks has to be moved in order to close the boot properly. From this: To this: Hope this helps

I did. Thanks for letting me know. It performs a bit better now, with less pressure applied to the turntable.

According to Bricklink, this is the one used. You can buy a replacement for approx 1 Euros from BrickLink. The big black brick in the back(left) is the counterweight. It can also be seen in this picture:

In regards to cutting the pneumatic hose/tubes: When I bought this set, it only came with the tubing for the A-model pre-cut to size. I found them to not fit when I was building the B-model(the one I built first for this review), and replaced some of them with spare tubing I had laying around. . I used a too long piece somewhere earlier, I cannot see a way of making the B-model without additional tubing.

These pics show the difference between the old and new parts. I found it over @ TechnicBricks: http://www.technicbricks.com/2010/10/tbs-technuggets-12-inside-linear.html

I'm sorry, I just checked the part number @ Bricklink. I forgot that the 8862 has cylinders as well. Fixed.

I would guess 8043. The build is amazing, the features exactly what you would expect. Be sure to get the later version though, as the motors were replaced.

After being introduced to the wonder that is the Lego pneumatic system with sets like 8862 Backhoe, Universal Pneumatic Set and the Power Crane, this set raised the bar even further. 8868 was released in 1992 as the biggest set to that date.It was literally packed with pneumatics, featuring an electric air pump(no, the Unimog wasn't the first one to have this), working rotating claw with operator's cabin, and an engine of course. More on this in the conclusion of the review. It was 140$ on release according to Brickset, I paid 100$ for mine in excellent condition with box. The average used price on Bricklink is 100 as well. The box The box is the same size as last years 9397 Logging Truck, and the 8880 Super Car. The front shows the main model, along with an explanation of how the compressor works. The back shows the secondary model, which works along the ways of 8479 Bar Code Multi Sets main model. If you look at the bottom left image, the different steering angles for the front axles is indicated. The inside shows the rest of the features of the main model, along with a schematic outline of the pneumatic circuit. The parts This was the first Technic set to include a motor and a battery box, other than the 9V Motor set and the Set=8064-1'>Universal Motor set from 1990. The Electric Plate is also present in this set. It was only seen in this and the Space Shuttle. The tires is this set are the old 20x30 solid ones, and this is the only set that has got 6 of them. They sit on 20x30 rims. There are quite a few sets from the early days of Technic that uses these wheels, including 8862 Backhe Grader and 8848 Power Truck/Unimog. Nearly all of the pneumatic parts in this set are new this year; the smaller cylinder and the pump are all introduced with this set. The only common part, set aside the tubing and t-pieces, is the switch and the Pneumatic cylinder(pump). The turntable was present in no less than 4 sets this year, being a major improvement to its predecessor. There is also two differentials, and a Steering pulley to drive the compressor. A weight brick is also provided, only seen in one other (Technic) set, the 8862 Backhoe. It weighs 55 grams. These are Technic cylinders. They only serve aesthetic purposes in this set, but it is possible to upgrade the set with Air Tanks, availible as of 2008 with the 9641 Pneumatics Add-On Set. I didn't bother, because it'll cost me nearly 100 Euros. You can buy the tanks separately on Bricklink for about 7 Euros each. Last, but not least, the triangle was introduced this year to the family of thin liftarms. Well, on with building, starting with A model: Claw Rig The main model starts with the bottom of the chassis. The driveshaft connects with both the rear differentials. In a 6-wheeled vehicle, both rear axles needs a differential, since they turn at different speed through a sweeping turn. The diffs are mounted opposite ways, because of the connecting axle inbetween. Each diff holds 3 14t spur gears. Two universal joints are used to extend the driveshaft to the front. Axle connectors hadn't been invented yet. Here you can see the gears for the engine(24T), and the input axle for the steering(8T). It's time to start with pneumatics. The first two cylinders rotates the crane assembly. The inlet of the first is routed to the outlet of the other, making them turn in the opposite direction of each other. Still with me? I've labeled all the hoses to remember what color they are in the instructions. The next step will make it all easier. Ta-dah! That black brick holds all the hoses in the right place, no more need of marking each one. The transparent tubing is the heart of the system, and runs to all the switches soon to be placed. Here is a wonderful mechanic for you. The turntable in this model is actually pneumatic driven. As the two cylinders retract/expand, they push two gear racks which, in turn, rotates the center axle of the turntable. The switches are currently only held in place by the tubing underneath them. Some support will be built soon. The hoses are carefully routed through the turntable. Further ahead you can see how the switches are held in place by modified plates. A fake air tank is placed on each side. The transparent hose is the inlet hose for the pneumatic system. The frame for the crane is built as a separate unit, then placed on the turntable. The big black brick in the back(left) is the counterweight. When the crane chassis is placed, it's locked by a passing 12L axle, which goes through the axle and pin connector in the center of the turntable. It was hard to get a pic of this, so I had to up the contrast a bit. The crane is starting to take shape. You can see the operators seat in the back, and the electric motor contacts (black 2x4 plate) along with the inlet hose in the front. The operator's cabin is complete, and the compressor is taking shape. Now the compressor is complete. The Universal Joint to the left leads to the HOG steering. Nearly finished now, with the engine compartment and windshield forming. The crane boom is almost its full length. Rigid hoses with clips extends the tubing to the end. A V6 engine is fitted in the front boot, and the final piece of the boom is added. The claw utilizes a small cylinder to work. The sleeping unit of the cab is made out of bricks, and will also house the battery box later. Speaking of battery box, here it is. The roof has been completed with a HOG light, signal horns and exhaust pipes. The finished model looks stunning, and the functions work well too: 1) Mechanical 1: The two rear differentials drive the engine with fan. 2) Mechanical 2: Turning the trans-yellow HOG steers the truck. 3) Mechanical 3: Turning on the battery box drives the motor, and the compressor. 4) Pneumatic 1: Raising/lowering 1st arm section. 5) Pneumatic 2: Raising/lowering 2nd section of arm. 6) Pneumatic 3: Slewing by pushing the two gear racks underneath the turntable. 7) Pneumatic 4: Opening/closing claw. When the crane is not in used, it can grab the rear bumper like this: For additional playability, the truck is Technic fig compatible, and allows two in the cocpit and one in the crane. While testing it's strenght, I ended up grabbing a 8067 Mini Mobile Crane which it was able to lift, and stretch out. What amazing strenght! According to Brickset, the crane weighs 0,48 kgs. That's it for the features, now let's take a look at the size, compared to 8446 Crane Truck: 8436 Truck: That's it for the main model, moving on to the alternate: B-model: Materials Handler The secondary model also starts at the bottom, but it doesn't use the differential, making the drivetrain much simpler. The first cylinder is controlled by a switch at the right side. When I built this model, I realized how you have to cut the original tubing to fit. Glad I got some spare tubing from a previous order. Unfortunately this means the B-models trans tubing will be (mostly) of the grey kind. The white thin liftarms here will attached to the rear axle later on. An electrical extension wire runs all the way along the chassis. The compressor is made by using both rubber bands from the half-bush on the motor to a pulley wheel. An engine crankshaft piece is then fixed to the pulley, giving the pneumatic pump an input stroke of 1 stud . Next is attaching the cylinders for the front boom's elevation. The rear end of the chassis is locked by two vertical bricks, and the 4 smooth grey 1x2 plates are positioned where the steering racks will go. I know this image looks confusing, but the main part is quite simple; The grey tubing connects to the compressor, and provides input to the two switches. The black tubes connects all the cylinders to their respective outputs. Custom steering hubs are made for the two steered front axles. The rear end of the chassis is reinforced by bricks, and the steering rack is finished. Because the 2nd axle's connection point is further from the wheelhub, is turns at a lower angle. This contraption is attached to the control axle of the front pneumatic switch. It makes the switch turn when the motor has driven the mechanism to the end. The front is reinforced by multiple vertical bricks. The vertical axle serves as a HOG. The second long pneumatic hose will retract the front cylinders. Rather than having two "air tanks", this model combines four elements into one bigger, situated behind the drivers cabin. The bed is nearly finished, and you can see the battery box where the sleep cabin normally would be. Cab finished, moving on to the arm. The arm works similar to that of 8479 Barcode Multi-Set. The claw is very simple, like the one of the main model. Two axles are joined with a set of 14T bevel gears, with an intermeshing 14T gear on each side. The claw's teeth are fixed at an angle on each axle. As either one of the axles turns, the claw is closed. All done! The only feature is grabbing somehing, and tossing it in the bed, which doesn't tilt. This would be fixed in the next model, the 8479. Comparison 8479: 8110: The verdict The main model works fantastic, looks almost like a real truck, and is as solid as a brick. The pneumatic functions are a joy to use, and this remains as my most played-with set to date. The only thing I missed was the in-cab steering wheel, but I don't think there would be any room for it. The secondary model is somewhat of a letdown. It takes a lot of time to build, but doesn't have an engine, and lacks the number of functions the main model has. Still, it is a good looking truck, and the 4 wheel steering is a nice touch. Too bad you'll have to cut the tubing twice to make both models, but maybe pneumatic tubing was cheaper in 1992. What a fantastic way of demonstrating the possibilities of the Lego pneumatic system! All the features are used in these two models, utilizing piston expansion as well as contraction to power different functions. The way the main models compressor is made is widely used by todays AFOLs. This set ranks among my top 10, and is certainly worth the 100 bucks I paid. I would even say it would be worth an Unimog on its own! Thanks for reading/watching pics. As always, big pics are availible @ Brickshelf.

Air Tech Claw Rig. Although it is only the compressor that is motorized, it might be up your alley. Read my review for a better explanation of the features.

But still it looks great IMO, it reminds me of the Rocket Launcher some time back with the same color scheme. This one.

OMG, that's so awesome *faint*

Nice work! These engines are not often seen here. Thanks for sharing:)

When I ordered some old Classic hoses last year, they all came as kinda see-through thinner variants of the new ones. This variant is listed on BrickLink as the part for the 8860.

This is the one to skip if you're thinking about it.

If this isn't art, I want to know what is...

Thanks a lot for the review. Very nice pics and information here. Is this the first set to have been combined?