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Hidronax

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. Hidronax
    Thank you guys! It's interesting to me, I never stopped being curious about this. It's a shame the piece is glued so firmly, it might have been cool to put Axl's armor on top of other minifigs. I have made my own sticker for a "downsized" version of Axl cause I found the big torso a bit too much, I'll share pictures when I'm home.
  2. Hidronax
    Thanks, it's a very extensive answer! I couldn't ask for a better one. I considered getting a good printer just to be able to print my own sheets, so this is why I asked... Professional ones are really expensive though. But at least I know what questions to ask when I go to a print shop to get prints (I'm looking for a new one). I make all my files in vectors, so I should be covered when it comes to those.
  3. Hidronax
    Does anybody know the print resolution of the original LEGO stickers? (In DPI or PPI) Educated guesses are welcome. Thanks!
  4. Hidronax
    Thanks for the info! Sadly, I guess pad printing is the only option for upper leg decorations...
  5. Hidronax
    Thanks for your reply! I don't really mind too much the edge to be fair, and hopefully waterslide stickers shouldn't be as thick as vynil anyway. Do waterslide decals allow leg movement, to your experience?
  6. Hidronax
    Hello, I have been designing some custom LEGO stickers lately and I'm really enjoying it, I have found this place near me that prints good quality vynil stickers. The problem is that these stickers are quite thick, so they won't work for example for the legs, cause they come off when the leg bends. Same for the heads when putting on hair. Is there thinner vynil sticker paper that would work for the legs? What's your experience? I'm also considering waterslide decals, I've read the tutorials here on the forums. I couldn't find any recent example of custom minifigures made using this technique, can anybody share some hi res photos? Also, is there any way to print light colors on dark pieces with waterslide paper? Thanks! ;)
  7. Hidronax
    Yeah, I thought that more than glued, the top might attach to both the arm holes of the bottom, in a way that is not possible to separate them. This is why I was curious to see a photo from the bottom mostly. If anyone has separated the two parts, even in a distructive way, I'd be very interested to see! Even just out of curiosity.
  8. Hidronax
    Hi everybody, Hopefully I'm in the right section. So, I don't own an Axl from Nexo Knights and after looking at the images online, it looks like his torso is made of two parts: one minifigure torso, and the top bit that attaches to it. Could anybody take a photo of the inside of the torso for me? I am very curious, I wonder if the two parts can be separated. If so, I hope the print on the bottom part covers the full torso, I'd like to use it to make a normal-sized Axl. Thanks! EDIT: Since I posted this, I have bought an Axl myself, and I can confirm that the piece does not attach through the arm holes. I believe it is glued at this point, but I am not interested in breaking it for confirmation. I can post specific photos if requested.
  9. Hidronax
    Might be worth it, it seems like they do custom legs so they have the technology for it. Alternatively have you considered stickers?
  10. Hidronax
    Hello Natant, I don't know about USA services but from the UK I saw there's this one called minifigs.me. I haven't used it personally, but the results seem quite good, and it seems like they print on legs too. Maybe it's a little bit expensive though. EDIT: Sorry, my bad. It seems like they sell custom legs but don't let you upload your own design like they do for the torso ecc
  11. Hidronax
    Thanks for your reply! Do you mind sharing photos of your stickers? I assume you buy the PVC sheets and print them at home? When I got stuff printed on PVC, I had it printed in a print shop. It was a sticker sheet so it already had its own glue. The stickers were quite thick though, and very prone to getting white scratches, not great.
  12. Hidronax
    Hello :D I have made a few decal design I'd like to print or get printed, but I am not sure about what is the best way to do it. Is it better to do it at home? Or is there services I can use? (I live in the UK, in case you have specific services to recommend) Most services online assume you want to print a large number of the same sticker, but it's not my case. I've seen also many people use the "laser printer" technique to print their own stickers at home. Do they turn out durable? Do they have good quality, is the dithering noticeable? In the past I had stickers printed on a PVC sticker sheet, but they were too think and didn't stick enough, so over a few hours they'd just come off round surfaces like minifigure heads. Also, they were very easily scratched, which is not great... If you don't mind sharing photos of your own custom decals, it'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks :)
  13. Hidronax
    Awesome work! I was just wondering if there was a way to add custom bricks to LDD. With Stud.io going on now, we could add some of the new parts. I've also been making some custom parts, so I'd be interested in the process to add parts into LDD. What tools and process do you follow? (I apologise if it's already been explained, I looked through some pages but I couldn't find anything related)
  14. Hidronax
    Double post (bug)
  15. Hidronax
    I see! I would like to reproduce the Bionicle masks and pieces in the original LEGO colors though, I'm not sure how that could help... Well I am interested mainly in parts that only have axle and pin holes, nothing more complex than that... Yeah ball joints would be very tricky to obtain. Yeah, matching colors seems something that would take a very long time to fine tune, without a starting point...
  16. Hidronax
    Do you mean melting the parts in an oven and have the liquid ABS to drip into the mold?
  17. Hidronax
    Hi all! Lately I am more and more intrigued by trying to make my own silicone molds for LEGO parts (mostly Bionicle) and make resin casts. I have had a look online and there's some good tips and tutorials. This is an "old but gold" tutorial about how to make molds for lego hairpieces and helmets, I remember it from many years ago, but now sadly the images have gone missing. Has anyone tried, and has experience to share? In particular brands of silicone and resin to use. Another important thing will be trying to match as much as possible original LEGO colors. Does anyone have some experience to share on that regard? It would be very helpful! Some people got very nice results but I doubt they'd want to share their secrets :P I have never attempted silicone casting, so I only know what I could read online :) Thanks for your help!
  18. Hidronax
    To remove print, just use a normal eraser on the lego piece. It's mad but it does work, just be persistent. If there's elements you want to keep, mask them with some tape. I was able to remove individual small details from some lego heads.
  19. Hidronax
    Thanks Wardancer, that's pretty much what I was hoping for. I've seen online that some people got very very good results, but I guess they all used an airbrush. Maybe I'll look into it, I'll see if a cheap airbrush can do the job, and if I need a large space to use it. Thanks for the help everybody :)
  20. Hidronax
    I'd be doing from spray cans, because I couldn't justify the cost of an airbrush at the moment... It gets much more tricky because I can't mix colours like this. I've tried these two cans for gold and silver, the quality of the paint seems quite good (the paint covers well the base color, the coating seems quite resistant and the detail is intact), it's just the color that is a bit off. In particular the fact that they're a bit "sparkly". I'm attaching some photos of the results and of the cans. At the moment I am working with Bionicle parts, so in a way they're not subject to the same conditions as bricks, but being quite big it is easy to get scratches maybe (from the weapons held by the character etc). I'll share results if I have more, I'll probably get a clear protective spray too. Compairson Paint used
  21. Hidronax
    Hello! I recently bought a 3D printer and I am trying to make my own custom Lego pieces. Spray paint sticks to the custom pieces quite well, but it's being hard for me to find the right colors to match the LEGO ones. Can anyone recommend brands of spray paint for specific colors? Or maybe techniques used? I'm looking in particular for Flat Dark Gold and Flat Silver, but I'd be interested in any color you have experience with, for future reference. Thanks everybody, hopefully this topic can become a little database for people in my situation.
  22. Hidronax
    Yeah, that sounds sensible. I was hoping I could use someone else's experience without to make my own. Well, matching the exact colour with 3D printing would be just as hard as painting/dyeing to be fair, and the quality of the piece would be noticeably inferior (in both looks and durability). Making silicone casts like user Socketball's Custom Masks on Instagram can get you satisfactory results, but it's a much more tricky technique to master, especially if the piece you want to make is not a mask. Also of course, making silicone molds requires expertise/experience, time, space, materials and a fairly big investment. The silicone and resins are quite expensive, especially because you can pretty much only bulk buy, and to get the best results you also need a pressure pot, which is more $$$. I like Bionicle, but only to a certain extent :D
  23. Hidronax
    Oh... I hoped dyeing could be the closest thing to having the elements in a different colour... Maybe I will just try painting or, more likely, give up. Since it's discontinued pieces that I'd like to recolour, I don't have many I can experiment with. I wish Lego gave us the chance to buy pieces in new colours, they kind of have a responsibility since they're the only ones who can produce these pieces.
  24. Hidronax
    Hello everybody, I'd like to recolor some Bionicle pieces to make some 2003 style Matorans (Kongu, Tamaru, Onepu, Damek). However, because there are socket balls articulations involved, I thought it might be better to dye the parts instead of painting them. I've seen some videos about dyeing LEGO using Rit dye (this video was most helpful). I was wondering, though, if anybody ever made a guide on how to obtain results as close to the actual LEGO colors as possible (brands, ratio dye/water, timing etc). I'm mostly interested in Teal, Purple (the old one, prior to 2004) and Lime, but I think any information would be interesting for the community. Thanks!
  25. Hidronax
    I see, thank you for the first-hand information! :)
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