Blakbird

Looks like this version does not include the rubber bands I synthesized to hold the pen. Feel free to grab them from my model if you like. I like the CAD generated "flip arrows" you made! I've updated my render which could be used for the cover page.

14:5 23:3 4:1 9:1 This was a great contest idea and the entries are incredibly well done and inspiring. It helps show what a diverse medium Technic really is, and what a diverse community we are.

I'm just guessing, but I would think the new worm gear is supposed to work with a gear rack. The old one one worked, but poorly since the worm teeth were inclined but the rack teeth were not. I'd use the old worm with spur gears and the new worm with rack gears. The other advantage is longitudinal locking. Worm gears cause load which tries to slide the worm along the axle. You don't have to worry about that with the new gear since it can't slide.

8846 was definitely 1981 which is clear from the catalogs at the time and from the copyright on my instructions. Like many sets, it was available for a couple of years so later versions had the newer pins. There may have been multiple versions of the instructions as well.

Touché. You know me well.

Here is my build. My scanner is broken so I can't post a plot right now.

Exactly!

I'm extremely jealous of all you fellows who got the sets early. Great job on all the reviews though. Now I know exactly which sets to buy.

Excellent review and amazing photography! I'm glad you got the set early and could share it with all of us.

Han is an amazing builder and most of his builds are motorized. If you read what he wrote about the dump truck, you'll see that he considered motorizing it but couldn't find the space with all the other functions. If he couldn't do it, it won't be easy.

It's pretty hard for anyone to answer since LEGO has never released information on how many of any particular set they have made. However, judging by resale prices and availability, virtually all Model Team sets could be called rare, with 5571 being the king. For Technic sets, rarity is typically related to part count since fewer children could afford the larger sets. Of those you listed, the three largest are the most valuable and hard to obtain. There are a couple sets which were only available in a certain country (like 1972, 8847, or 8858) which are very difficult to find. Promotional sets are also relatively rare. Some of this is discussed on Technicopedia.

Regular ball point pens don't work very well because there is not enough pressure on the tip. A soft tip, fine point pen is best.

That is the way I usually do it. If the arrow is defined in a submodel then you can ghost the arrow and it does not show up in LDView which makes viewing much nicer. This also allows you to call the same arrow over and over again instead of recreating it each time. I usually only create one arrow and I make it color 16. Then I call it wherever I want it, apply a color, and stretch it to whatever size I want with the transformation matrix.

Sort them yourself? Why would you do something manually when you can make a ridiculously complex machine to do the same work much slower and with more cost? This is the Technic forum after all! I'm quite fascinated by these sorting mechanisms, especially those that are purely mechanical and use no sensors or programming. Akiyuki is so good that he even does it with one motor. Given that each type of axle and pin now comes in only a single color, there is no need to sort by color. You only need to distinguish shape and then you get color for free. Sorting in tiers starting by length would be obvious, but how to sort within a given length is much harder. For example: a friction pin, a frictionless pin, an axle pin, a frictionless axle pin, and a 2L axle are all the same length. How to distinguish between them? If you can do it mechanically, you are my hero.

I think he is Italian, not Spanish.

I think there is a reason she left the note......

Seems fine to me. Actually might get extra points for creativity.

I recall that MOC being posted several years ago here on Eurobricks when it was new. You should be able to find the thread and find out more about it.

The post you replied to is 5 years old and the original author is not even on this site any more. Please only resurrect old posts if you have something new to contribute to the discussion. See this thread for more information.

Becca: Is presumably female Is impressed by Technic Has a job This is a very rare combination. Sounds like a real winner!

That's odd. I did include a link when I wrote the post, but somehow it disappeared when I clicked "post". I've corrected it now. In any case, it is easy to find anyone's Bricksafe page. Just look for their username. I just checked into these. They seem to be related to a bug in LPub. There is no problem with the MPD file. In each, case, the parts you mentioned are in the correct step. LPub is not correctly interpreting the buffer exchanges in these steps. It works OK if you unpack the multi-step and put the steps on separate pages.

I've done a bunch of work on the file and posted v15. I've corrected a bunch of things in the platter, ghosted a lot of buffer exchanges, added lots more multi-step pages, added a BOM, and created a step with the pen and the rubber bands supporting it. In addition to the MPD file, I've also posted a completed PDF that should be good enough for those who want to check on our progress but don't have access to the other digital tools we are using. Please see the new files at my Bricksafe page. DrJB, if you could actually code a program to predict the drawing results, that would be an incredible resource.

No idea. You might try asking in the Lego Digital Designer forum.

Nope, neither of those things will read a BSX file. BSX file is for the Brickstore application. To open it, you need to download Brickstore. Just search for it and you should find it easily.

I built this model this weekend using the V14 instructions and manually making the changes needed to the pen holder bottom bracket. The model works great! My family can't stop playing with it. I built mine with an M motor instead of an L motor because I did not have one available. M-motor works fine and has plenty of torque, just harder to attach. Once we get the instructions done, the next logical step is to make some sort of list of settings which make good drawings. In his video, PG52 shows R412L which is the first thing I tried and works great. However, some settings don't look good at all, and of course there are many possible combinations (256?). In fact, I also discovered that in addition to driving each arm clockwise or counterclockwise, another option is disabling one of the arms altogether. This also produces some interesting results. Finally, some settings are sensitive to initial conditions. For example, when both the left and right arms are driven at the same speed, you get a different drawing depending on whether the arms begin in phase or out of phase with each other. So far I have tried about 30 different combinations and about half of them produce a result that I would consider worthy of repetition. The others are either boring or a mess. In terms of future improvements, I think the main thing that would be helpful is the ability to drive the center channel (turntable rotation) at a much slower rate, and perhaps at a ratio that is not a simple multiple of the arms (center gearbox could have different ratios than outer gearboxes).