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Lixander

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Everything posted by Lixander

  1. Lixander
    It depends on the voltage that the setup has mainly. My set-up runs on a 2S LiPo battery, so it has 4.20 V on each cell (when fully charged), which gives a maximum of 8.40 V. The Power Functions are made to run at 9 V, so it is below the ”normal” voltage actually. The motors do heat up, but with any kind of wire (both the hobby grade and the Lego ones), even with 0.60 V less than the ”normal” value. No problem. Just be sure that the wires can withstand the ”power” of the battery.
  2. Lixander
    Hey........I would have recommended you to look for my models, but pretty much none is that size and none will fit with a trailer, especially esthetically (they look bad with a trailer). You can try to talk to GooberReboot (he is mostly active on Telegram - his group speaks only russian but you can translate the text; moreover, you can find his socials in the description of his every video; he speaks english if needed) if you really want to have a new model (but beware, it is not so cheap and depends a lot on what you want, as others said) or you can look among his models, he has some off-roaders. Again, as suggested by others, look for off-roaders on Rebrickable - you will find something for sure that will help to make your own model or to find someone to make it for you.
  3. Lixander
    I think this would help if anyone wants to have a base for a RC Lego set up, even though it is not in english, you have the links in the description and (auto) translation in english is available (I don`t know that language, so it was pretty hard to understand everything for me too). Anyway, I also used it, except I added a cheaper remote and receiver, but the ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) is very good for its price (it is for brushed motors; I am not sure if this fits the topic :/ ). Also, if you ask, the ESC will be ok with 2x Lego motors, but they must be stock (except the connectors, of course). Moreover, you can just modify a Lego extension wire and put a RC grade connector, like in the photo (they seem to work, but until the other motors arrive, I can not compare the modified Lego extension wires with the replaced wires on the motors). This way, the motors maintain their original wire.
  4. Lixander
    I understand now :/
  5. Lixander
    What do you mean by ”hacksaw”?
  6. Lixander
    I see :/ You have to wait some months then :// Also: ”I don` need PU”.........I totally agree :)
  7. Lixander
    You can also get the set, if you really want them now, but that isn`t pretty cheap either :/ (at least in here).
  8. Lixander
    That doesn't sound so good, because the new parts for a new set, as the Audi RS Q E-tron, are pretty rare and expensive for some months after it is released. So, good luck!
  9. Lixander
    Might be. I followed the topic to see further updates anyway ;)
  10. Lixander
    Oke. Thanks for telling me !
  11. Lixander
    I see. There are 2x XL motors there?
  12. Lixander
    Thanks !
  13. Lixander
    Thought about the Ford Bronco Ultra 4 4400 (the ones around 2020-2021 especially) and I couldn`t miss the opportunity to do a better (and more powerful) one on this chassis. So here it is the new bodywork (also W.I.P.). I couldn`t made this body-work without some inspiration from this ; sadly, the project in the video was heavily modified by its creator and now it uses Power Up electronics and has a completely different body-work - still good, but I prefer the buggy motors and the style of the first body-work.
  14. Lixander
    Still waiting for the motors, but I already made a buggy motor variant and it is quite simple (and probably more light) compared to the one with the Power Functions 2x L motors. I also tried to directly run this with only 1x L motor (the same ”faster variant” from AliExpress; it doesn`t have the famous thermistor), only the gears that transmit the power from the motor to the axle of the wheels. It stalls anyway. Today I connected, again, a Power Functions XL motor, but this time it was also ”direct drive” - no gears apart from those who transmit the power to the wheels. It runs ok, the average speed of the motor, just the gears are slipping under load. Moreover, I consolidated the body-work again, especially the sides and the front-end of the roof. These are made only with the buggy motor variant, because I hope it will be more ”successful” (that variant also has ”direct drive”); I made a render too, for visualizing the model and testing some render settings. .
  15. Lixander
    I see. Thanks for the idea! P.S.: coupled the motors with the 1:1 ratio but I had to put a differential to keep the gear ratio of the motors - it works but I am still unsatisfied. I will switch back to the buggy motors which are more capable in my opinion.
  16. Lixander
    Nope 🥲
  17. Lixander
    Well, not this one :/ I also tried now with the a XL motor - it is pretty much the same.
  18. Lixander
    Thanks! Also, I tested yesterday the baja-truck - the model is too heavy for the motors, even if they don't have the cut-off security circuit (they are the faster AliExpress version), because the motors work when there is no load, but when model is put down, the motors barely move.
  19. Lixander
    Nice livery The car............I like about 97% of all the buggies, truggies, baja or trophy trucks I see; what you sent is one of them. Speaking of what I like, the Flat baja truck is not there for now. The chassis is awesome, but the body work is not really good-looking and it is not so solid.
  20. Lixander
    ;) I couldn`t not to think about the body-work, so I started to build all of it with what I have. I consolidated it (a little) and replaced several 3x13 curved panels. It looks too boxy and a little too flat (heh, maybe that is the reason I called it ”Flat baja”). I had also problems with the suspension, being too sagged in the rear, but I found a solution for that; now, the wheel arches are too small for the suspension travel, especially in the back - partially good for me, meaning that the chassis has a great suspension.
  21. Lixander
    Ah, I see. Good luck then ;))
  22. Lixander
    Well, you can make the charger, if you know exactly what you are doing and have a little experience with soldering and electronics. You can also look for a normal charger with a DC connector (I think that this is the connector on the Lego 9V battery box) that has the same specs as the Lego one. Also the wires are made at a local RC hobby shop, because it was cheaper than buying soldering wire (and easier and faster too). The control and the battery-life is improved with ”normal” RC electronics (I did not change the motors though).
  23. Lixander
    Oh, oke. Ok; I will see if I can integrate it in the model. By the way - tomorrow I will take the chassis for some tests outside and I installed the electronics; I don`t have the pieces to make the first version of the body-work, that must be modified anyway, so for now, testing just the chassis is sufficient.
  24. Lixander
    It might be, but what 5L arms? Also, that part with the distanced CV ball joint looks pretty fragile :/
  25. Lixander
    It behaves like if the steering rack is in a ”normal” position - there is no room for skipping and the rack is ”fully” connected to the gear. It could. I would think a way to put this in the model. It would be helpful to have a 5L steering rack (which doesn`t exist)
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