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Lixander

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by Lixander

  1. Also, I found some adapter-frames and the axle adapter. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/540-motor-mount-for-lego-technic https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/540-motor-to-lego-axle-adapter
  2. Interesting........do you know where I can find it?
  3. How are you going to put the RC motor in the Lego model..........with an adapter or?
  4. Made some upgrades to the front suspension arms, consolidated a little the rear motor frame and added a skid-plate for the servo-motor. I will probably add more colors, as the V2 had, later. Until then, you can see the V2B in its main color here (new renders will be made in a few weeks, so the tire pattern ”problem” will be solved)
  5. Nice work! I first thought that this isn`t a Technic build, but yeah, it is :))) Keep up the good work!
  6. Mulțumesc! ;)) Nope, I usually don`t take videos :/ Until now, I used the Technic Universal Joint 3L for the front and it popped out from time to time. Now I use the old CV joints that you asked about, but I didnt tested them yet. Yup, I had to borrow 3 motors, because out of 4 motors, I burned 3. The front ones had thicker hobby-grade wires, so it was better to remove the ”real” motors from the cases.
  7. Thanks! The truggy has about 1 kg without the 3x battery hubs (I put 1x hub for the servo and for each 2x motors there is another 1x hub). So it has some punch, but I never had the space to test it properly. Plus, there are a few problems, like the roof pops out, the front could detach at impact and the front connections to the wheel hubs are a bit loose and might snap easily.
  8. Welp, here is one of my first MOCs I have ever made (about the 4th in general and the 2nd Technic one). I mentioned this model in the topic of the Lego Technic Tamiya Neo Fighter truggy, the Neo Fighter being by far more ”practical”, with 2x buggy motors but still being 4x4. I decided at the time of the Technic Tamiya truggy that the 4x buggy motors truggy will remain a prototype, but a german said that he reached 50 km/h with it with only 1x BuWizz 3.0. He is probably lying though, but considering that my parts for the Tamiya truggy wont arrive, I said to give the old 4x4 buddy a try. So here I am, with a 1kg ( 1097g without the battery hubs) 1:12 Lego truggy that needs other 3 buggy motors. As I said, this 4x4 truggy has 4x buggy motors and 1x servo-motor. It uses 4x hard 6.5L shock absorbers for the independent suspension in the front and solid axle suspension type at the back. Also, the body-work is detachable.
  9. I see. Still curious though (but I dont know if I will get a BuWizz set-up in my hands :/ )
  10. So it is extremely possible to burn from lower voltage :/ Also, I am curious about the BuWizz voltage too.
  11. I might have found a reason why the motors burn, even if the voltage is below 9V. I just searched the internet and i came across this ( https://www.quora.com/Why-do-motors-burn-in-low-voltage )
  12. Really nice B model! If I will get the set, I would directly build this; it has a "tight" (almost no empty spots in the bodywork) and accurate look. Bravo! Keep it up with the good work!
  13. Welp....I finished the version with the original body-work. You can find it on my Rebrickable Also, here are the official renders
  14. i see. You are lucky - my motors burn without too much warnings, but yours seem to be bullet-proof.
  15. I understand; the first two motors were burned while running in the grass, so it was totally my fault, one way or the other. But the last one was running on a kind of rubber (that one from the children playgrounds, put on top of the earth or sand) and tarmac, so it is pretty strange. Also I am curious too if someone burnt a BuWizz motor, especially under normal usage. Anyway, thanks for the information! I think it is pretty relevant. What are the other electronics that you are using (ESC, remote-transmitter,, servo)?
  16. By the way............I don`t know what goes wrong for sure, but i already burnt 3 buggy motors. That makes me think that I shouldn`t remove the thermistor, but with the thermistor, it barely moves any model for 1 minute then it stalls. The first 2 burned motors had 2 capacitors, one from production (I should have deleted them though) and one ceramic capacitor (each of the motors). The last one had just the production capacitor on it; also, the third burnt motor had the metal pins of the Lego connectors melted after it stopped functioning. As I said, I run a 2S LiPo battery, so the voltage doesn`t exceed 8.40V.
  17. I see. That was one of my concerns too, the voltage of a 3S battery being too close to the maximum voltage of many Lego motors. I talked to a relative of mine and he advised me to put a 2S and I did so. Also, I run a maximum of 2x motors, but until now, they didn`t had problems because of the voltage (as far as I know; I still need to take the electronics to someone to test them thoroughly). But thanks anyway!
  18. I made some changes by making the instructions - you find quite a lot of mistakes when you create the instructions, and made some test renders too, for more clear images. Now, I also recreated some building steps of the original RC kit, such as uniting the bottom chassis with the roll-cage (I tried to match the colors, as you can see - the roll-cage is grey and the bottom frame is black); moreover, you can study the structure without many other things, except the buggy motor and its frame, because the front chassis is installed at the end.
  19. Well, I modified the front for any eventuality. I also corrected some errors in the frame.
  20. One of my main concerns for now for the Technic BBX BB-01 is the rear suspension. I want to make a real trailing-arm suspension; I think I managed to succeed, but I had to modify the side-bars. About the side-bars - thanks @Alex Ilea for the advice with the 6L link, but any link or even beam/ lift-arm would look pretty thick; I would keep in mind this solution though. Anyway, I am not sure what to do: keep the first suspension that only mimics the trailing arm suspension type (LEFT WHEEL) or use a functional trailing arm suspension (RIGHT WHEEL) that might make the model too wide at the back (that means that the front suspension arms might need to be also modified, along with the steering rack)?
  21. Thanks :)) I will try to put the 6L links on the side. Thanks a lot for the advice!
  22. Despite this new variant seems completely different, except the tires, it uses about 60% of the chassis of the Flat baja-truck. This is a Lego Technic recreation of the pretty new RC kit of Tamiya - the BBX BB-01 (I know, it is a pretty strange name). It has the same things as the last version of the baja-truck (that is 1x servo and 1x buggy motor), but has full independent suspension on all wheels and at rear it uses 2x 9.5L hard shock absorbers instead of 4x 6.5L hard shock absorbers, for mimicking the trailing-arm rear suspension of the original Tamiya model. I tried also to ”copy” some of the chassis frame too, especially the tube-frame. This will need more hours to correct all the connections (Studio has a lot of bugs :/ ) and even more hours to determine if everything is really ok, because I am aware that some connections will not ”work” in real-life, others are wrongly connected or the sizes are wrong etc.
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