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Interesting, I’ll keep that in mind! Have you considered moving to an oil-filled suspension setup? Otherwise, beautiful work! I’m a big fan of this kind of engineering with brushless motors. Can’t wait to see it running.

Thank you for your message! Is there a specific part you’d like to see? The entire set of parts was custom-designed, including the chassis, front and rear suspension, as well as all components related to the drivetrain, suspension, and steering. I even modified some parts that come from @HorcikDesigns, such as the rims, which were altered to allow the wheel hubs to be inserted more deeply. There is also a different depth between the front and the rear to take into account surrounding parts that could otherwise rub against the tire, for example. Here are a few additional photos anyway. The underside of the chassis: Views without the tires to see more details: I bled my suspensions to ensure they are in the best possible condition. Mid-mounted motor with cascading transmission: And finally, it’s true that I wasn’t planning to make a video, but if it’s requested, I’ll be happy to do so. For now, indoors, I prefer demonstrating the suspension, and I could possibly make an outdoor video in 3–4 months when the nice weather returns.

Quick little update to introduce you to a new model. The highlight of this creation was the integration of 4 true independent suspensions. It required a huge amount of research and development from me, dozens of part prototypes, but the result is beyond my expectations. The vehicle drives as if it's floating on a cloud all the time and absorbs road imperfections without any rebound. The front and rear suspensions have different settings. All are filled with 700 cSt viscosity oil, but the springs differ between the front and rear axles. More photos:

I also found a mount for a different setup, created by @HorcikDesigns, for the SG90, but I’m not sure if it also works with the SG90S! https://makerworld.com/fr/models/165631-servo-sg90-to-technic-adaptor-for-brick-models?from=search#profileId-181863

Always in pursuit of optimization for my small-scale builds, I’m currently testing a few new ideas. First, I’ve been experimenting with a new way to mount the gear onto the motor shaft. I replaced the gear’s cross pin with a hole matching the motor shaft diameter (3.17 mm for the A2212). You have to press it in with a hammer, and once it’s in place, it won’t move a bit. I think this is the most reliable solution so far, and it also saves some space. I’ve also bought a couple of new AM32 ESCs to test. Both are excellent, they’re “only” 30 A, but that’s more than enough for our small brushless motors. They’re just as compact as the usual ones people use here, but cost half as much. And for a new build, which turned out to be the smallest vehicle I’ve ever made. I’ve been testing a different brushless motor I had mentioned earlier. It’s more compact than the A2212 but performs really well on lightweight models. For the first time, I’m also using a servo other than the Geek Servo: the MG90S. Once adapted to the LEGO system, it’s even smaller than the smallest Geek Servo, yet it offers a torque of 2 kg compared to 0.5 kg is a bit faster and more precise, and all of its gears are metal.

For my part, I consider that even with a large number of highly specific printed parts for a particular model, everything is used with the ultimate goal of being in harmony with the Lego system. I find this to be a great compromise to stay within the Lego world. In my case, this allows me to build sturdy, robust, and durable mini 4x4s with a Lego aesthetic, which for me is an integral part of my enjoyment. However, it’s always more challenging at smaller scales to combine performance and robustness while prioritizing pure Lego. That being said, I invite you to check out my thread, where I’ve just presented my first two 4x4s in a bit more detail

I’m back with something new, actually, twice as much this time! I’m excited to show you my very first 4x4s at a really small scale. On one side, there’s the racing buggy, which is basically an evolution of my previous blue RWD buggy, still my best creation so far. It ran a lot this summer, dozens of battery packs, and still just as fun every time. Within exactly the same dimensions, the first big step I managed to take was moving to 4WD. The motor is placed in the center, and the whole setup includes 14 ball bearings. A bit over the top maybe, but I can say there’s absolutely no friction left that could have been removed. Aesthetically, since this was my first attempt, I decided to focus more on compactness rather than using Lego parts for the body. But that’s something I wanted to improve on the new model. Now, on the other side, there’s the off-road truck. Which is actually a major evolution of the racing buggy. It’s 3 studs shorter, has 1 stud more ground clearance, and is equipped with RC shock absorbers: At the front for a suspension of all the front axle, At the rear for an independent suspension setup. So, not only is it even more compact and better optimized, but it also handles much better. And thanks to the space saved, I was able to build a body using as many Lego parts as possible. Another special feature of this model is that it doesn’t use any metal connectors with screws, only Lego connectors (except for the suspension mounts that require M3 screws). The entire design was made with that in mind. However, it is equipped with metal wheel hubs and 2-stud-long U-joints on the axles. Only 10 ball bearings were needed in total. Another point worth mentioning is that there are no metal gears. I wanted to test that, and even without grease, the gears handle full acceleration and top speed perfectly. Considering the total weight of 500 g and the number of bearings, that’s not too surprising. The main downside of this model, as you’ve probably noticed, is the gear sticking out dangerously from the chassis, to be fixed... Next developments already in progress, still within this size range: Independent front suspension Integration of differentials Fixing that exposed gear issue under the chassis

Here are a few illustrations, I hope they’ll work for you ! And just for your information, with M3.5 you can’t slide through the connectors, it doesn’t fit!

Thank you Regarding the front axle I presented, I’m using classic 3L metal U-joints. I actually finished this model a while ago. In the meantime, I went to Sweden for three weeks for work, and I’ve been back in France for a few days now. That said, this model is awesome, works like a charm, and has exactly the same dimensions as my previous small blue buggy, except now it’s 4x4! Here are one or two photos: I’ll present it in more detail later, probably alongside the new version I’ve been working on since I got back. This time, I’m using 2L MTP U-joints. I’ve found solutions to make this version even more compact and optimized. We’re talking about an additional 1L in ground clearance and 3L saved on the total length. I’m keeping the same width because I’m now incorporating MTP metal wheel hubs. Plus, I’ve managed to integrate an independent oil-filled shock absorber system at the rear. I already have some ideas to replicate this on the front axle, but that’ll be for a V3. I’m also using the alternative geek servo motor for the first time, which, as strange as it may seem, appears to be more precise in returning to the zero point than the 2kg geek servo in initial tests. Here are a few photos: And to come back to the MTP metal connectors, I completely agree with you that they’re quite expensive. But I find them absolutely essential in many cases. Using threaded rods can be a substitute, but in my opinion, there are quite a few drawbacks. For my part, I still use M3, as you can see in the photo, which can fit inside Lego connectors (with adapted washers to stop the screw head from passing through the pin holes). And since the nut can slide up to the offset of the pin holes, you don’t even need to put a connector inside the pin hole: the rod stays well-centered. I made this choice because with larger diameters, you end up with oversized screw heads and much bulkier and thicker nuts, which can be problematic. And of course, replicating frictionless movement with threaded rods seems complicated to me. It’s probably possible, but MTP will remain my first choice

A quick post to show you the front axle of my next mini 4x4. What I was aiming for: Maximum 9 studs between the wheels Fit in the 6 planned ball bearings Be really strong because it’s for bashing Metal CV joints A good steering angle Compact and not too tall because of the servo Plan a neat routing for the servo motor cable Have mounting points for the future design using only conventional Lego pieces I managed to reach this goal after a long process and several prototypes, and in fact it’s even under 9 studs wide (the steering arm you see in front is 8 studs). I’m obviously going to replace the plastic gears with metal ones. All that’s left is to make some 3D tweaks to widen the areas where the ball bearings will sit. I also have some ideas to add more mounting points for regular bricks, and to think about how to connect it to the chassis, what kind of suspension, etc. I’m still a bit unsure about that part. It’s made up of four main parts: The central body The wheel hubs The steering arm with the servo arm The cover to close the underside and lock everything together The whole assembly is secured and locked either with Lego pins or with MTP screw connectors.

I never would have thought a battery could lose a cell. I’ve always charged mine with a cheap charger that doesn’t show that kind of thing. So I just ordered a charger with cell display to do a little check-up on my stock I didn’t know about Tattu — I’m actually looking for new 450mAh packs, but with my current brand (Zop) they’ve become almost impossible to find or way too expensive. I’ll check AliExpress when I get a chance! Yeah, with a crawler I think that’s fine. But once you start going for speed or acceleration, that’s a whole different world. I know that from experience I’d need to make an adapter to fit the D-shaft, but I think it’s doable. And for a planetary reduction, with such a small motor, if you’re aiming for speed (with 1:28 and small wheels), it’s not necessary. I’ve never actually used planetary reductions anyway, only the classic motor pinion to axle gear reductions.

Hi everyone, Today I’d like to share a slightly different project, to mark my very first steps with my brand-new 3D printer, my very first one! I couldn’t resist the Bambu Lab P1S, an amazing machine thanks to its simplicity and the quality of the prints. That being said, I had been thinking for some time about making a completely flat model, meaning one that could drive on both of its sides. I needed a symmetrical body, 5 studs high, to fit between wheels of 64 mm diameter. This gives a ground clearance of 1.5 studs on each side. I first tried making a prototype entirely in Lego, but it was impossible to fit all the components within just 5 studs of height. Since I had just received my 3D printer, I thought this would be the perfect project to get some practice and start learning 3D modeling. I began designing the two main parts: the chassis as a single piece, and the motor block also as a single piece (with integrated ball bearings). Everything was modeled to Lego system dimensions. The front axle, however, is made entirely of Lego, covered with 3D-printed panels. The front axle and the motor block/rear axle are connected to the chassis with metal connectors and screws. It’s fixed at the front, but at the rear the axle can rotate laterally (using my usual elastic system). So there’s no suspension as such, but enough flexibility to handle uneven terrain. I also went with very soft tires (which act as a kind of minimal suspension). The floor and roof are removable (attached with Lego pins). The roof can be opened with a hinge to make component access easier. The electronics are the same as usual, and they fit perfectly inside (a bit like squeezing everything into a handkerchief, to be honest). Dimensions: Weight: 417 g (with battery) Length without wheels: 150 mm Length with wheels: 173 mm Width without wheels: 71 mm Width with wheels: 123 mm Height from ground to top: 50 mm The result is a sharp and reliable drive, with no risk of flipping over and damaging anything It can drift, flip, roll, and immediately keep going again! The body never touches the ground. As for the design, it’s of course quite minimal, but the finish of the surfaces really gives it an almost industrial look, as if it had just come straight out of the box. I’m already working on another model in this flat format, but this time with a kind of suspension system. I’m also considering a 4x4 version, not for crawling but for bashing — and that’s where the real challenges begin! As always, if you have any questions or feedback, they’re more than welcome!

Thank you for sharing, happy to see I'm not the only one wanting to miniaturize models powered by a brushless system Your build is really well thought out, and I think it's the smallest brushless crawler out there to date, congratulations! From these short video clips, it looks seriously functional and promising, can't wait to see more! You should indeed use a more compact battery; I'm only running 450mAh 3S, and it's more than enough. Have you already found the one you're going to use? Are you going to design parts with ball bearings? I'm worried that plastic won't hold up in the long term; play will develop, and it won't be as pleasant to drive. Then again, maybe for a mini crawler, it'll be fine since you're not going fast, so there aren't too many friction issues! I'd love to test your motor solution, but I'm afraid that in my case (bashing), the plastic gears won't last long! Do you think it would be possible to use it without a planetary reduction? I'm currently working on a 1:24 scale mini 4x4 bashing build, and I'm designing a lot of 3D parts with ball bearings, along with carbon and aluminum transmission, metal wheel hubs on bearings, full metal gears, screw connectors, etc. It's a must for my setup

Awesome! Well done I’m jealous! Really can’t wait to see it in action

@Krxlion Thank you so much, I’m so excited about all the new possibilities this ESC offers me @gyenesvi Thanks a lot You connect the ESC to a USB dongle (don’t forget to order it along with the ESC), which you then plug into your PC! After that, you have several options: either a configurator directly online via https://am32.ca/ , or an offline software that’s a bit more old-fashioned. @Krxlion had shared a video with me that explains the whole process really well, here it is: @Johnny1360 Thanks It’s very enjoyable to drive because it’s light and responsive. And these little VR-type tires with soft rubber give an even better feel.

Hello everyone, After finding the right formula to make my 1:24 scale models reliable for real RC-style use, I naturally turned back again to the 1:28 scale. A quick note about my previous model (the blue racing buggy). I still run it several times a week and it hasn’t budged a bit. I reinforced it and switched it to a 1:2 ratio. It handles impressive accelerations and top speeds. Sure, it’s filled with metal parts (mainly screw-based connectors in large numbers), but the result is essentially the same as running a Mini-Z Buggy Brushless with full metal upgrades (at a cost well over €600–700). New Model Specifications Weight: 422 g Wheelbase: 110 mm Length: 165 mm Width: 85 mm Height (max): 74 mm Technical Features Ratio: 1:2 Front suspension: elastic (vertical) Rear suspension: elastic (horizontal) Optimized ground clearance Electronics Geek servo Dumbo RC transmitter + receiver (with gyro) 3S 450 mAh battery AM32 ESC This is my first time using this ESC, and I’d like to thank @Krxlion for his help with this very significant upgrade for me. It’s a real revolution for my builds: it takes up no space, weighs almost nothing, is very simple to use, and even cheaper than Surpass Hobby! With a bit of cable management, nothing sticks out of the cockpit anymore. Whereas before, the battery always ended up between the windows with wires poking out. Design I tried my best to focus on the looks this time, and I really like the result for such a small scale. At the front: my usual vertical suspension system, which does the job perfectly. At the rear: a different setup, entirely horizontal movement, which complements the articulation of the front. I tested it yesterday, no surprises (almost the same chassis as the blue racing buggy). It works flawlessly, nothing to change. Maybe I’ll add some reinforcements with metal screw connectors, but otherwise this is definitely a model built to withstand heavy use for years. For now, I’ve kept plastic gears. They seem to handle the load just fine: no slipping, no melting, and that’s even without lubrication. Honestly, I’m not too surprised given the low weight of the car and its small wheels. As always, if you have any questions or feedback, I’d be happy to hear it!

Really impressive! It looks very performant, and despite the camera angle, I think I can see that these slopes are really steep. As a big fan of modifications and alternative parts, it's a treat to see a project like this and it makes me want to move to larger scales indeed No metal parts here? Maybe carbon fiber axles? How much does this beast weigh? And I wonder if there's a way to get your custom reduction for the A2212 motor? Have you thought about reproducing and selling it?

Thanks a lot! Great question! I'm a huge fan of tiny scales, it's what motivates me the most, and I never get tired of it. I love being able to fit them in my bag without taking up too much space or weighing too much, and turning any place into a playground Another reason I love small scales is that it's easier to find an optimal synergy. It's simpler to eliminate flaws, and it's easier to be satisfied. Although it took me almost 2 years of research and development to get to this point. I still have projects for larger scales, now that I'm close to perfecting the small ones and have ironed out all the kinks. It'll be a challenge to increase the "difficulty" level. I actually have 3 Brushless motors and 4 differentials from Zene waiting in the wings! I'll have to move to larger scales if I want to make 4x4s, and I'll definitely get to that at some point. Regarding toe-out, on the contrary, I've found that it helps the vehicle maintain a straight trajectory, especially when combined with a positive caster angle. At least, that's my experience with models at this scale. However, I have to admit that I've always done it more or less instinctively

Thanks a lot Fun and reliable, perfect for on-the-go!

Hello everyone! It’s been a while since I last posted. Today, I’m coming back to you with this little vehicle that represents the epitome of what can be achieved with Lego combined with conventional RC equipment and special metal parts, to create an equivalent to a traditional RC car at the same scale. Here were my goals: To be able to drive for the duration of a full battery charge (about 30 minutes) without needing to pick up the model and "fix" things To accelerate without restraint, full throttle from the start and at any time, with big bursts of acceleration, sudden reverses, and seamless transitions to top speed To experience no issues with the gears or the connection between the motor shaft and the Lego axle To encounter no friction or anything that would "slow down" the vehicle, whether it’s accelerating or coasting To have no play that would compromise the handling, especially in the steering To drive straight without ever needing to make adjustments on the model or the radio control To take very tight corners without the model flipping over in any way (on clean roads, of course) To accelerate in these kinds of turns without the model spinning out or sliding To withstand crashes without sustaining major damage The key components to make all this possible are: Metal gears Metal wheel hubs with ball bearings Metal pin connectors with screws Ball bearings in all moving parts Carbon axle Clamping collars with screws to secure the wheels and Lego axle to the motor shaft If all these elements aren’t present, it’s simply impossible to achieve an acceptable and durable result. Flaws will appear, grow, multiply, etc. Let’s go into more detail. Dimensions: Weight = 463g with the battery Length = 17 cm Width = 13 cm Height = 7.3 cm Hardware: A2212 1000kv Brushless Motor Surpass Hobby KK 35A ESC Gray Geek Servo 360 Dumbo RC X6FG + X6FG receiver (with integrated gyro) 3S 450MAH 70C battery Specifications: Gear ratio = 1:3.5 Positive caster angle Toe out Elastic suspension on the front axle Free perpendicular movement of the rear axle retained by elastic bands The front axle is completely locked—no play can develop. Metal wheel hubs with ball bearings are used. The motor block is completely locked using metal pins; nothing can move. The gears can’t skip or grind. The motor gear is steel, but the transmission gear is plastic. It’s really sturdy; I don’t use any grease or silicone. And yet, I have no hesitation with sharp and sudden accelerations, as you’ll see in the video. Metal beams with ball bearings are used throughout the rear axle. The wheels are locked both front and rear using clamp collars with screws. Ground clearance is 3 studs and the center of gravity is as low as possible. All components are side by side; nothing is stacked. To lock the Lego axle to the motor shaft, I use a new method that really works. It doesn’t loosen or break anymore. This was the last issue I couldn’t solve, especially on my last model (the black buggy). I use a red friction pin that is slightly thicker. I slightly hollow out the interior along its length so it can fit over the motor shaft. Then I drill two holes to the diameter of the clamp collar screws that go on top. Finally, I tighten the screws as much as possible so that the clamp collar compresses the motor shaft to the maximum. This way, the locking is optimal. Here’s the video. What I still plan to improve on this particular model is the chassis rigidity. I’ve ordered new blue parts for this, and I’ll lock the vertical and horizontal axles using metal pins. This will allow me to "rough up" the vehicle a bit more. There will also be a new video to show its true top speed, with different gears at a 1:2 ratio. I’ll also test some light off-road driving to see how it performs there. In conclusion, I have to say I’m absolutely satisfied with the result and I take indescribable pleasure in driving this thing. I met all my requirements! The only flaw in my opinion is that I can’t do jumps or hardcore off-road due to the lack of rear suspension. But I’m already thinking of an alternative to include one. That’s my next goal, and I won’t hesitate to show you the result. Then, maybe, perfection will be close. As always, if you have any questions or comments, feel free to ask.

Bravo for all your hard work! I'm glad to see that the 4x4 works well with brushless motors and for bashing, especially thanks to Zene's differentials! I’m planning to build a 4x4 model too, but more road-oriented, using Zene’s wheel hubs (and therefore conventional RC wheels), his differentials of course, and his brushless motor. Are your wheel hubs holding up after intense use? Even though they have ball bearings, there’s still a lot of plastic contact, and your model seems to take on heavy acceleration and top speeds. From my perspective, with so much friction on the plastic, you must be noticing and feeling increasing play over time? What I mean is, the plastic inevitably ends up melting or, at best, crumbling away... That’s my main concern when testing Zene’s wheel hubs, as they’re plastic and already have some play out of the box. In my humble opinion, they won’t last long. I think the metal wheel hubs from MTP are the only truly viable long-term alternative when aiming for acceleration and top speed. For your suspension system, beyond improving ground clearance, have you considered switching to oil-filled shocks like @Krzychups did earlier on this page? I think this is the last essential step to move away from Lego spring shocks, which are completely banned from conventional RC builds except for children’s toys. I plan to take that step for my 4x4 model and even switch permanently for all my models regardless of scale. I know we’re drifting further from Lego, but it’s the logical next step, given how far we’ve already come! I just need to motivate myself— I have almost everything I need, but my work drains a lot of my physical and mental energy. Plus, where I live, the weather is cold and rainy 90% of the time, which doesn’t help with testing or making videos. I have three models already built that I need to present on the forum, but they’re peacefully sitting on my shelves for now. In any case, I’m looking forward to seeing more of your experiments!

Super cool to see this kind of experimentation—show us how it evolves! On my side, I’ve come across some amazing products on Ali, including a bunch of servo motors I’ve never seen before, and some other items I’ll let you discover. This one seems really interesting—it’s bulkier than our usual Geekservos but appears to offer a force of 5kg instead of the 2kg we’re used to. Has anyone tested it yet? There are also other servo motors in different formats, offering the same force as the original Geekservo: This one also claims to deliver 2kg of force but is supposedly equipped with metal gears: Then I stumbled upon this—a kind of battery box, although I’m not super familiar with this type of hybrid device that seems to allow control of classic Lego motors. It might interest some of you who want to dig deeper into this: I also think I’ve found metal axles, which I’d guess are aluminum. Judging by the price per unit, I can’t think of what else they could be. But there’s no information about the material in the description: Lastly, here’s a device that seems to be a Bluetooth speaker: I also spotted a small smoke machine with the same type of connection.

Of course, I plan to make a video about it! To give you more details, this setup features Zene’s motor directly connected to its metal differential, powered by a 3S battery, entirely on ball bearings, and weighing only 870g. Zene already powers models close to 3kg at speeds between 50 and 60 km/h without even pushing them to their limits Great question! What drives me to create this mix is that it combines two of my biggest passions: LEGO and RC cars. At the level of optimization I’ve reached, plastic parts don’t suffer as much as you’d think. In fact, they’re no longer in direct contact with the load and power. And, ultimately, even in hobby-grade RCs, plastic is still widely used! Another advantage is that if I break something on an RC LEGO model, I can replace it easily and at a low cost. On a hobby-grade RC, replacement parts can sometimes cost a third of the car’s price, plus there are delivery delays, etc. I’d also add that I get bored relatively quickly with a conventional RC car, which often pushes me to buy something new. It’s much cheaper for me to invest in optimizing RC LEGO models, and I also enjoy the endless creativity of building new designs without ever getting bored. The Dremel is also a great friend of mine. Whenever I need a part that doesn’t exist, I try to create it from an existing one—or adapt certain things as needed. I even have a box full of custom LEGO pieces I’ve modified over time! :D Thank you for your interest

Hi! Great to see you experimenting with all of this! To prevent losing your wheels, you can absolutely use the same part you're already using near your motor. Be careful not to over-tighten, though, as it could create friction (especially on the rear axle). That's why you can also integrate a small flat bearing with a 5mm inner diameter. With this, you can securely tighten your wheel and also get the added benefit of a ball bearing. Since you're working with low speeds, that should be sufficient. You can also apply a bit of lubricant to your gears, but be careful not to "contaminate" the surrounding parts. On my side, I'm mainly aiming to exceed 50 km/h, with this model even surpassing 70 km/h. That’s why I also use quite a few metal parts, particularly metal wheel hubs with ball bearings, which allow the wheels to be tightened with screws. I also use metal differentials and gears, as well as ball bearings and connectors with screws. But admittedly, this can get expensive. It all depends on what you're aiming for in the end! Feel free to show us how your model evolves