dantheman12
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Everything posted by dantheman12
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some small progress, couldn't put myself through anymore studying so I rebuilt the front end to put the intercooler in and fitted the piping for it in: s15 lego progress 18.09 by dan.vperger, on Flickr @damian_kane_iv I saw those parts, but again I think it would be too high. might be possible to with the 6.5L shocks but since they don't have a pin hole at the top like the old 95292c01 does, theres definitely a way to connect something to the top to put a ball joint on top but I couldnt think of a way to do it nicely. Another thing is the price of all these parts, both expensive as they're either brand new or really old and hard to find.
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Yeah I've seen that used a few times, nicjasno used a similar idea in his ford sierra, but I found those ones and also the new springs made the top sit higher than I wanted, otherwise would need to be on a great angle inwards which I didn't like the look of. But that being said, using the actual shock absorbers from lego is always going to be a more reliable and simpler way of doing it, if my ones don't work with the fully built model a solution like that would probably be the best choice.
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Yes I agree, I might be able to squeeze 2 of the strong springs in with something limiting how far down the lower arm can go so it doesnt just pop off when the model is lifted up. But I will go back and test that once more of the model is done and the model is closer to It's final weight. @StudWorks Thank you :) @2GodBDGlory Thank you that worked
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1/8th Ford Probe
dantheman12 replied to 930 Turbo's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I think making a list of exactly what you want in the model is really important, and make sure you know what the priorities are. I'm working on my 1:8 model of an s15, but I've been at it for so long as it was so open ended when I started. Now i've decided on what i want the most, and progress is much quicker. Getting measurements like mentioned before is also really useful, as you really need multiple references to build off, use lots of pictures and find measurements and ensure things are the right measurements. But then again I'm not very experienced in actually building models I've been into technic for for 4 years now and still haven't finished anything, but I've definitely improved which is good. But good luck to you, look forward to seeing a post of the finished model one day :) -
Some more progress: Did some work on the engine bay with the sr20, quite happy with it so far, still can add a few little details and need to make the intercooler for the front, but that will require redoing some of the front part of the frame. IMG_1430[1] by dan.vperger, on Flickr After 2 more designs of the hubs i'm finally happy. This monstrosity using a 3L bar to hold the bottom of the hub in place so that the geometry of the strut was perfect, but meant there was heaps of camber, and wasnt as sturdy as I wanted: IMG_1427[1] by dan.vperger, on Flickr The finalised design: IMG_1433[1] by dan.vperger, on Flickr does not have perfect geometry but pretty close, so far it's working fine. Put some steering in, but I'm going to need to tweak it a bit, and also need to do some more rebuilding of the frame to accomodate the larger wheels. IMG_1435[1] by dan.vperger, on Flickr Haven't decided if I should tackle the front bodywork or work on the rest of the mechanical parts of the car like the gearbox and the back suspension. The bodywork is not my strong point, as I never get to that stage on my projects edit: attached wrong picture also does anyone know if I can change the title of this post? Should probably make it WIP not MOC
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Thanks, the suspension is still being updated, as I just got some new wheels - the ones from the land rover defender which means I can fit a lot more inside the wheel which leads to a few benefits. But I think I need to accept some solutions that aren't 'perfect' in my mind, as if I keep trying to make it perfect I will be taking it apart and rebuilding it forever The tracing has been quite helpful, I mainly used dimensions I found to get an idea of the full size of the model, and then thought I could plot the front bumper which I actually modelled off a little 1:64 model I have of an S15. I recently found the full original manual of the car which has proved to be incredibly useful, especially for the engine bay which I've been working on, as it has a plethora of dimensions - will upload pictures of the sr20 soon :) I've seen those, I really like the tires for them but they're really expensive, I got some of the x1825 tires with the 49294 wheels, but I haven't decided wether to keep using the 68.8 zr or these new ones which are significantly larger, I think the bigger ones are more realistic in size but don't look as good on this car as the thinner walled tires.
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Finally made some progress worthy of an update. Version 2 (arguably 3) of the front suspension is nearly complete, I want the wheels to sit in more, but I have quite a limited supply of wheels for this sort of model. I plan to purchase a couple different wheels and see what will fit better. (feat my little 1:64 Silvia model which has actually been quite handy for scaling) The best part is that the new one (black) extends the shock into itself, rather than out the top like the old design. I’m really happy with most the new design, and the hard parts like making it very sturdy and making the geometry of the McPherson strut correct are out of the way, making the wheel fit well shouldn’t be too hard, I just need to try some different wheels when I get my hands on them. Does anyone know of any 1:8 scale wheels that aren’t as wide as the 68.8 x 36 zr ? Also started work shaping the bodywork at the front, made a bit of a layout on a baseplate: Next will probably be the steering rework, the front bumper and the engine bay, which I hope won’t take too long. After that I can tackle the gearbox, which I’m both excited for and dreading. We will see :)
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The attention to detail is very impressive, great job. I really like models at this scale making use of studded parts to capture the details that aren't represented as well with technic parts. In my long list of MOCs that I will one day get around to building is either a Mazda 787b or the Sauber-Mercedes C9 at a scale like this.
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@CrazyKreations great work I like the canopy its very recognisable.
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great model love the presentation and the realistic mechanical parts, reminds me of the things we use at work that we call walkie stackers, pretty much the same thing with all the same mechanical parts except its controlled like a pallet jack rather than driven around.
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Love the idea bro and nice to see another person from aus, see these everywhere as well my mate does a lot of work on 79 series specifically for mining companies, would be really cool to see this in a 1:8 scale with all the different features but I like what your doing at this scale and for the competition.
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Love the consistent updates, makes me want to put more of my time into building my current projects :) I really like your solution for the gear shifting using the linkages, but was wondering if if they have too much wiggle room? I've been trying to build a 6 spd manual gearbox, and one of the main things I want is for it to feel realistic, even if its going to be hidden away. I may try something similar to your design (and give credit of course) hopefully I can come up with something worthy of an update. I also really like your attention to detail and the effort put into perfecting things, will be looking forward to seeing the finished model. I found your update about prototyping and stud.io very relatable, the amount of times I've completely rebuilt my front suspension to increase the sturdiness by replacing pins and etc
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Progress so far:\ havent had much time to work on the model due to exams, but some 'progress' has been made. - Started redesigning the front mcpherson suspension, wanted it lower so it would fit under the hood, have been experimenting with bionicle ball joints, but took a break because reinforcing it at such a strange angle was proving very difficult. - Started building some engine parts for looks - extended the chassis to get an idea of the scale, and started planning out the back suspension, am pretty happy with the top triangular part, but still need to get the axle and suspension working properly and reliably. I really want to put a torsen differential in the back, the real car has a helical limited slip differential, but as I have found this is not possible with current lego parts, especially not at this scale. I will probably use a design similar to ones out there on youtube and rebrickable, with the worm gears and 8 tooth gears, but fitting this in will be another challenge. Any suggestions for the limited slip diff and the front suspension on an angle like the real car and with a lot of caster would be appreciated :) silvia s15 progress 3 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia s15 progress 2 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia s15 progress 1 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia progress 4 by dan.vperger, on Flickr
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I havent no, that is a beautiful model, do you have a video or post of it? The only one I saw in my short search was an orange one by antoine11 on rebrickable
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Some progress photos of my new project, a 1:8 scale s15, one of my favourite cars. The goal is to make it as realistic as possible, but I havent decided if I will motorise it or not. At the moment I think it will either have a manual 6spd stick shift gearbox, or else no gearbox and buggy motors. So far I have built a front steering and mcpherson suspension set up, much like the real car. Currently the steering is not perfect, as the wheels have slight toe in due to the length of the steering arms. I need to order 2 of piece 80477 and hopefully that will help the issue without having to rebuild the steering system. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/200629697@N03" title=""><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53704948148_98829451dc.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt=""/></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script> not sure if those photos are gonna work its my first time using flickr silvia 1 by dan.vperger, on Flickr Silvia 2 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia 3 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia 4 by dan.vperger, on Flickr silvia underbody by dan.vperger, on Flickr
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General Part Discussion
dantheman12 replied to Polo-Freak's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
has anyone purchased any 'fake' lego pneaumatic parts? have been wanting to use some for various things mainly for rc scale models do do things such as suspension and diff locking, but the prices for genuine parts are too much for me. I've had some good experiences with fake lego motors from aliexpress, and there are pneuamatic parts available online for much cheaper than the genuine ones. wondering if anyone had any recommendations. thanks -
the detail is amazing
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Not building help but not really sure where to post. Does anyone know if pick a brick prices change? Wanting to get my hands on the new gearbox pieces but wondering if they will decrease in price as they get older? specifically couldn’t believe that the new 2m gear gear shifter ring was 6$ aud
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thanks, I had the same idea, but as you said it was very difficult to make realistic gears that are also practical in rc. I’ll try the ratios you have and see how I go. cheers
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Amazing! Changed the angle of the tie rods and it works great now, cheers thanks will try this out
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I’ve been working on this model for ages now, and it is finally starting to come together, but keep taking apart and rebuilding things as I’m a bit of a perfectionist- probably why this is taking so long the goal is to have a motorised model with as many features as possible, I’m focusing on the realistic aspect instead of making it fast. Also due to having limited motors it will have 3 xl control plus motors to drive, and 2 m motors c+ for steering and gears 10 speed gearbox (like the real one, although focusing on the paddle shifters rather than the complicated computer in the real one - https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.motor1.com/news/260390/ford-ranger-raptor-no-manual/amp - (they only make them in automatic) more ‘modified’ as appose to ‘stock’ - better travel, front and back diff locks, etc red and black (mainly because I have the most red parts) would appreciate any tips or suggestions :) the main problem I am having is making a 10 speed gearbox (will probably settle for an 8 speed) also I’m not sure how to make the steering stay straight with such large suspension travel - the wheels keep turning inwards when the springs are compressed. sorry for such a long post, will try to put some pictures but the file size is to big :( currently making the front diff lock more compact
