m2fel

This is great The BWE 42055 with it's great b-model made me think about building a material separator / sorter site with machinery to extract gold pieces or black pieces (charcoal) from rock (grey pieces) or Lego balls from debris. Never made it beyond the concept in my head but this is pretty much it! Loader, excavator, separator, dump truck and conveyor. Everything RC or moving. Just awesome

Hello everyone, I would like to present my project: Lego NXT RC Karts. The idea was to build Lego RC Karts with a remote control that recognize the race track and respond to various inputs :) Originally, communication between the karts was also supposed to be possible. Unfortunately, the NXT master-slave-slave-slave combination was too slow for data exchange and therefore not feasible (the complete code was ready, but the response to inputs was much too slow). Then I switched to the remote control (master NXT), vehicle (slave NXT) option. I used the NXT Shooter as a basis and built two vehicles from it for testing. The vehicles each have two motors for propulsion, one motor for the shooter (useless but fun gimmick) and a color sensor to recognize the track. In one vehicle, the tracks are controlled individually and the other has separate steering and acceleration. The remote controls have two motors for steering and buttons for shooting and stopping the drive motors :) The color sensor detects the track beneath the vehicle. It distinguishes between the road surface (white, 80% power), red (braking strips, 60% power), green (boost, 100% power), and beside the track (neither white, red, nor green, 40% power). The track will consist of a paper roll (white) with obstacles (red areas) and boosts (green areas). It all works (hurray, took quite some time) Next, I'm going to build some fancier vehicles. I'm thinking of a tracked vehicle (similar to 42095) and a go-kart :) Programming was painfull and I had to start from very little knowledge. Many thanks to @Philo as I learned a lot from his spy bot and the related NXT programs. If there are requests for videos I might try my luck and learn where to upload and how to share those :P More Pictures of the vehicles, remotes and code can be found on Bricksafe. Names are Remote (Master: M1 or M2) vehicles (Slave: SM1 and SM2)

Some pictures of the tinkering. It's hard to explain and trial and error. I tried cardboard in different thicknesses and widths. It's all about pressing the right spot with the right force. I tried using a brick seperator to narrow down the required position. I even used a small screwdriver to poke on the cable. Overall, I wasn't particularly careful. I removed a battery to break the circuit when removing the display assembly, and only put it back in once the display pins were reconnected. Else I wasn't grounded and even used metal tools like the screwdriver. You have to make sure that the rubbery button cover fits back in place. Nothing more frustrating than the display works but you can't get the buttons in place and after fixing the cardboard the display is down again The pictures are just examples with one of the displays that is still defective. To get the cardboard under the circuit board, I took it out, and the cardboard between the circuit board and the display was pushed in there while installed and powerd.

@Ngoc Nguyen if it was clicking before adding the linear clutch, the internal clutch of the LAs were already skipping / clicking with one motor? If that was case, two motors won't make it any better as the LAs were not able to handle the weight of the arm proper with one motor, they won't be able to do it with two.

Once again Philo did it https://www.philohome.com/pfrec/coupling.htm Looking at the graphs it is not even close to doubling. More like 1.5 to 1.8 times the torque of one motor..

Yes. Mechanic, physics and math :) But you will loose some power to friction thus it won't double the torque but will be close enough and you have to make sure the energy source (battery) will be able to deliver enough energy

Maybe https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm ?

An update and what I've learned so far :) After some tinkering, I now have two NXT bricks with working displays :). Tried a lot of heat and melted the cable sheating but it didn't make any difference. What worked was squeezing some cardboard under the circiut board and between the circiut board and the display in different angles and thickness until it worked again. At least for one NXT Brick, the other kept flickerig or only worked for sevreral second. Then I had the idea that maybe a display of one of the dead NXTs still works. And one of the two displays only needed some cardboard squeezed in and was back alive. In the process I had to solder and unsolder speaker a few times due to clumsiness :/ Now one brick has sound and the other not... Yeah, I can live with that. Let's see how long the surgery will last. In the meantime I got my hands on the converter cable NXT to old 9V and this is magic. I figured out that a NXT motor can be run at a PF batterie box but a PF extension cable is needed as the 9V plug does not work with PF directly. Then I discovered that it is possible to connect a NXT motor to a PF IR receiver and use it with the normal or train remote. With the train remote it is even possible to control the speed of the NXT motor. I will get some PF plugs from Ali Express and replace the 9V ones at the NXT converter cable to avoid having to use extension cables. I still did not give up on the two dead NXT Bricks. Seaching the internet for information I stumbled across a PDF for the Lego Mindstorms NXT Hardware Development Kit which includes all wiring diagrams of the NXT Brick. Therefore, not all is lost yet. Next, I'll get started on building, as I had an idea as to why I dug out the NXTs in the first place. But I'm still angry at Lego as they sold really poor electronics, and while testing, I even found a defective PF M motor that hadn't been used for some time

Hello and thank you for your feedback. Heating the connector cable did not work. When I apply pressure to the connector cable in weird angles, the screen sometimes flickers, and once it worked perfectly fine for about 5 seconds :/ I will try the screen cloning tool, but I am quite disappointed that such a simple cable failure can render the NXT almost unusable :( There are still two NXT bricks that don't work at all. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look for on the circuit board? I'm going to visit a mobile phone repair shop. Maybe they can help with the connector cable. There's also a Repair Café nearby that opens once a month and they might be able to help me. I'd be happy if the bricks worked again. It's sad that they broke just because of their age and not because of abuse while playing :P

I had the idea of building something with the good old NXTs. My attempt to get my four NXT bricks up and running ended in disappointment. Two of my NXT four bricks are completely broken, and the display on the other two no longer works :( One of them had the “click of death,” but I was able to fix the problem by updating the software on the brick (I had to dig out an old laptop that still ran Win XP to do this). I did some research on the internet and finally decided to open the brick. The displays on the two bricks that still work flicker or even work perfectly when you apply the right amount of pressure to the display connector, but I couldn't get the display to work when I reassembled the brick. There was nothing obviously broken on the circuit boards of the two defective bricks. No damaged capacitors or oxidation on the top. I didn't desolder the circuit boards from the case to see if there were any visible problems on the other side of the board. Is there any advice on what to look for or how to repair them?

Hey, looked at the pictures of the JCB220X from @efferman. Isn't there the same problem as with 8043? The gears that drive the linear actuators for the boom are on opposite sides and that's why the boom doesn't move smooth? If I remember correctly, I changed this on my 8043 after reading it here in the forum, but I can't find the topic anymore... Can anyone confirm this? Sorry, but I'm not good with comments, copy-paste and quotes :)

Great MOC and good idea. To prevent the propeller from changing direction, the trick from Control Center 8094 could work. Place 3 gears on a lift arm that can rotate and is therefore able to support two different transmission paths. This is probably not possible with the set due to space constraints and the available parts, but perhaps it will fit into another MOC at some point :)

Hi, the real challenges were in the 90s :). In the last few years i have bought and built 8880, 8868 and 8865, among others. The instructions are as follows: take these 20 parts and try to recognize the differences to the last building step on the picture. And there is no color coding. For 8880 there are black, black and black parts :P In the new sets I hardly make any building mistakes although I build quickly and without focusing. In the old sets I made some mistakes even though I built slowly without distraction :) As a bonus, there is the penalty of the old pins with high clamping force if you have to build two or three building steps back B) So get an old set as a challenge. Buying used sets is even cheaper than new ones (that might be my personal gut feeling). Last but not least, you often have to dismantle entire sets, clean the parts and, if necessary, buy defective, incorrect or missing parts :) I spent more time with 8865 than with any new set. Looking for a used, acceptable set, buying paper instructions, dismantling, cleaning, checking parts, buying new ones or replacing existing ones and building took quite some time. But I enjoyed every part of it for the bargain of 60$ in total!

I like it and it reminds me of the 8275 b-model :)

according to the page: C61508W = CLAAS combine harvester (4400 pcs). The vid is about C65012 CLAAS Xerion 5000 Trac TS