2GodBDGlory

I believe MouldKing makes both normal and high-powered L-motors, and I am pretty sure CADA at least makes high-powered ones, and likely normal ones too. Some have compared MouldKing high-powered Ls to buggy motors in power. I'm pretty sure it was mentioned in the "new rechargeable battery" thread that it does have the encoding.

Those portal axles sort of fit in the defender rims. They do rub at the top, so some may not prefer it, but I'm personally fine doing it, and have done it in a Zetros MOD I have yet to post. Also, are you sure you can't do the "old-school" diff lock with the new differential? In my experience it rubbed just a little, but was (in my opinion) workable.

Yeah, I would probably do something like that if this were in an actual model. In the model I designed it for, I got rid of the top row of 20t gears, and drove the 12t gear's axle with a sliding 8t gear. I then used a manual level system for shifting, which would be a lot more compact than a motorized system, I think.

Here's a thought:

After seeing @Scoar Sonander's PRND gearbox in another thread, I was inspired to share an old idea of mine, used in my 1:7 Bugatti Chiron MOC. It is small, efficient, and heavy-duty (in certain bracings, not necessarily this mock-up one) , but is challenging to shift, does not lock out the gearbox in reverse, and does not allow the motors/engine to "idle" in Park. The black axle extenders are input, the LBG axle is slid to shift, and the LBG axle extender is output. Park has the 12T gear meshed with the blue and single-bevel 20t gears, which are rotating opposite directions, thus locking everything. Reverse Neutral Drive I hope you like this little idea of mine!

Yes, but automatic cars, of course, have to have a unique park control, and Lego sequential gearboxes are probably nearest to a real-world sequential automatic gearbox. Real torque-converter automatics use a separate parking pawl for the park, housed inside the transmission, but I don't know about real sequential automatics. Perhaps they just use first gear like a manual? Either way, this is a nice solution. I also built an interesting PRND gearbox based on sliding gears for my 1:7 Bugatti Chiron; perhaps I should post it on here sometime! EDIT: I have now posted my design:

Well, headlights could be made fairly well by stacking transparent bricks into a wall in front of the light. It could be cool for integrating headlights, turn signals, and even brake lights into one module!

You're right, there is no way it would fit. I doubt Lego feels like reviving the old version with the integrated towballs for steering (2013-2015, or so), but I think it could be made to fit if the rim were thin enough. I bet we'll see an offset rim of this size someday, since we already have ones for all the other major rim sizes, but it probably won't fit any drive/steer hubs.

Original Poster, I believe. I like to do overkill on my crawler's steering, such as an L-motor and a large linear actuator. That way, if I need to wiggle the truck around with the steering while in an extreme position to get that last shred of traction, I know it won't let me down. Worm gears can work too, and are more versatile in the space they use, but can be fairly complicated by the time enough reduction is achieved.

Good job! I always like seeing new gearbox designs, and PRND is definitely something that is often left out of MOCs.

17: 10 27: 6 18: 4 30: 3 37: 2 8: 1

The way I would have expected Lego to do it would to build the axle two studs wider, and then gain it back by using new offset rims for those tires. Oh well...

Yeah, the 2L was annoying for studless stuff using the old catch, but now that the wave selector is so common, it works fine in most instances. I still use 3L ones though, as they seem to skip out of gear less. And I really miss it... I remember watching an official Lego video of gearbox instructions once, and they used the 20T clutch gear in LBG! If only they put that one into a set...

Yes, the wear had been in the joints where the wire exits the plug or motor. It's annoying, but at least I'm good at fixing it by now!

Right now, three of my four L-motors have been ripped apart and had wires resoldered. Personally, all of my PF motor breakdowns have been wires (except for Servo contact cleaning), but it sounds like your problem may be a little different (and already answered throroughly!) EDIT: Apparently I don't know my collection as well as I thought! Only 1/4 L-motors has been repaired!

Nice work!

Very cool! That's good a lot of appealing mechanical complexity going on!

Great job! That engine set is a favorite of mine, and your model makes it even better!

It does look that way...

No, everything seems to be within Lego tolerances. That sounds like a pretty fun mod you've got there!

I've completed building a Zetros from my collection, and as a first mod (there will be more), I'd like to show my solution to the grinding gears in the rear axle others have pointed out. My solution is to replace the black 3l pin with pinhole being added on this step of the instructions With the assembly on the bottom of this picture such that the black 12t gear meshes with the differential, and the 16t gear meshes with the other three 16t gears shown in this step This setup results in the differential being driven by two different 12t gears simultaneously, reducing the likelihood of skipping. In my testing, I was unable to cause a skip. Driving it into a wall on a wood floor resulted in all four wheels spinning, while carpet caused the drive motors to stall. I should mention, though, that my model is using older balloon tires and PF, and I had to replace all the alternating pinhole beams with other stuff. Thus, I am unsure how my mod would perform in an otherwise stock set. If anyone tries it, please let me know how it works! Edit: I've continued modding the set, and my current setup had 3x higher torque at the rear diff. This setup is giving me skipping, so the mod isn't invincible. I still don't know if it would show up in a normal truck, though.

Is the output voltage also 3.7V? That'd be pretty slow for Lego motors! That would be amazing, provided it has PU app support!

I guess this is a case of waiting too long, and TLG stopping making the parts that you want. (well, one of them at least)

Cool! I hope the battery and motor are as small as possible!

Well, a newer set certainly might have a piston engine, but it would probably just drive it from the middle axle, rather than going for a full 6x6. 6x6 is cooler, though!