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Jerry LEGO Creations

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by Jerry LEGO Creations

  1. I prefer building with real parts. My approach therefore is I start with the physical model, and build the digital one in parallel, though usually a bit behind the physical model. I do this to make sure I am happy with whatever I made to prevent having to rebuild it digitally later on (though that of course still happens from time to time). Having said that, if you don't have the correct parts, experimenting digitally first can work pretty well
  2. Hahah thanks, no need to pay for this one though Like @Maaboo35 said, I'll take is as high praise! Thank you. I'm also quite happy with the canopy, more than this would probably have been too much
  3. Thanks! That was the hardest part of the build. I knew it was possible to make make the controls work, but to make them fit in a plane this size was a whole new (but fun) challenge. Glad to hear you liked the render, I figured that would be the best way to present them Thank you! Have fun building it! :D
  4. Hi all, I'm happy to present my newest MOC, a propeller plane with realistic controls. This is the list of functions: Working rudder Working ailerons Working elevator Openable canopy Freely spinning propeller Steering rear wheel It is a medium sized build at 707 parts. The dimensions are as follows: length: 30 cm / 11" width: 33 cm / 13" height: 10 cm / 4" The working controls are the main part of the plane. This is an overview of the mechanisms: Propeller plane controls by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr The yellow parts control the elevator, the yellow the ailerons and the magenta parts are for the rudder. The way the ailerons and elevator work are not too complex. By moving the yoke forwards and backwards, the rearmost connector also moves. This connector is connected to the elevator. The ailerons are connected to the yoke via a set of gears. The most interesting part of these 2 mechanisms, is the CV joint. This joint allows the axle to move in and out easily, while transferring the rotation to the gears. The way the rudder works is a bit more complex. Here is a render showing the different parts of that mechanism: details pedals by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr The yellow parts are the pedals. When you push a pedal forwards, it also pushes a purple liftarm forwards. To this liftarm a rubber band is attached at the bushes. The rubber band makes the rudder return to centre. The purple liftarm is blocked from moving backwards (towards the seat) by the dark green parts. This is done to make sure that both rubber bands don't cancel each other out. The movement from the pedals is transferred to the light blue liftarms. These are in turn attached to the lime parts. The lime 3L liftarm rotates about the pin in the middle. It is also the link between both pedals. The lime green thin liftarms are connected to an axle which finally rotates the rudder. Renders showing the mechanisms in action can be seen at 1:19 in the video. If you are interested in building it for yourself, here you can find free instructions: ReBrickable It is also on Lego Ideas, any support will be highly appreciated: Lego Ideas Finally, here are some more images showing the plane: Propeller plane rear side 2 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Propeller plane front 2 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Propeller plane top by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Propeller plane front by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr
  5. Wow, good to see it finished! The angles at the front are simply amazing. I enjoyed following the WIP page to see the way you build, I think that was helpful for me at least. Do you perhaps also have a picture of the rear?
  6. Those doors look very cool. I guess is was quite a bit of work to get them right, but it was worth it :P What are the final things you're going to work on?
  7. Wow, very clean design. It's striking how well it captures all the angles of the original car, loved seeing the progress on this one!
  8. I like this one very uch, it is not something you see very often. Do you have any plans for other machines?
  9. Wow... interested to see where this is going, looking good so far!
  10. This is an alternate of which you can only tell it is one by looking at the parts... It's very well made!
  11. Great, will do! :) Thank you. There are indeed some friction points in the suspension, but I'm happy with how it works, it is very responsive. The overall structure is quite sturdy, but I want to try to connect the front axle a bit better, since it can rotate a bit about its axis. Not much, but too much for my liking. The rear doesn't move at all. I have 2 high connection points on both axles, for the rear axle they are the 2 red pins in the T liftarms and at the front they are the 2 red pins behind the white axle and pin connectors.
  12. Thank you! The Ford is still a work in progress, but I will be creating instructions for it once finished.
  13. Thanks for the suggestion, it's a good one, and exactly what I've been working on : Orion - Monocoque 2 by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr I can recommend trying to create a freestyle model, since I very much enjoyed it so far. It gives you so much freedom to do whatever you want. As for the Ford, thank you! The dark azure seems to be my nemesis. I've spent the better past of November trying to come up with a design for the front, but nothing I liked so far. That is why I decided to work on the rest of the bodywork. Now, I want to finish/ refine the back. That part is mostly done by now. I also have a few ideas for the front, so hopefully I can make it work with those. Thank you, I really appreciate that! He's one of the people who inspired me to create my own models some years ago
  14. Thank you, it is mid engined. Thanks :D Thanks for the suggestion, I know what you mean. It's how I've done it the last few cars as well, and it looks better. So far I wasn't happy with the rigidity it gave me, but I can see what I can do. Maybe I'll try to build a roll cage and then only have flex axles for A pillars, since that has worked before
  15. I made some progress over the last week. I reworked both axles a bit. I changed the height the rear suspension a bit since I wanted a slight rake. The front suspension has been reinforced and seems to work properly now. The steering radius is quite large, although I don't really mind that on a racecar. The toe of the front wheels turned out to be wrong, which also messed up the Ackermann steering, so I made it adjustable. The connection to the steering rack seems to be strong enough to not change the toe over time, so I'm happy with how that turned out. The front of the car bottoms out on the ground, the rear doesn't. I'm ok with that, since it allows me to have a smaller ground clearance. The rear axle has a 4-speed sequential AWD gearbox with a 3rd differential. The way I made the gearbox is opposite to how I usually do it, the input from the wheels is connected to the clutch gears and the engine is connected to the shafts of the driving rings. This was easier in this case since the 3rd differential has 2 different gear sizes on it, and now I can use both. The shifter is a simple red lever to the right of the engine, and it is connected to a lever in the car. This lever moves (a bit) when you shift, though you can't use it to shift since it can't handle the force. The shifter has a limiter to prevent shifting from 1st to 4th or vice versa. The engine has a high rpm but runs without skipping gears. Just to be sure, there is a white 24t clutch gear in the drivetrain. I also made the monocoque. It has the HOG steering with a working steering wheel and a lever for the DRS. Of course there is no DRS yet, but I already have a connection point for a link at the rear to control it. The rear might look a bit high and bulky at the moment, but I think I can work with it. The chassis is modular, consisting of 3 parts: both axles and the monocoque. The angled beams at the rear might not have the perfect length, but the difference is so small that it doesn't give much stresses. I still want to do some detailing work on the interior and engine bay, but I'll probably leave it at this for now, I want to do some things on a different project. Here are some WIP pics: Orion - Chassis front by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Orion - Chassis back by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr Orion - Monocoque by Jerry LEGO Creations, on Flickr
  16. Depending on the model, I'm fine with it. I've made some models with free instructions, because I simply don't think they are good enough to be paid. I've also made one paid model so far, since I do believe that one is good enough. I've spent a long time designing and building it, and creating proper instructions takes a lot of time, even with the help of studio. Currently I'm working on 2 different models. One will probably have free instructions since it's a simpler/ smaller side project, but the other won't be. I've spent hundreds of hours on it, I'm definitely not going to give away free instructions for that. Look at it from a different perspective. Take someone who paints as a hobby for example. He likes to paint, but does that mean he should hand hand prints, or give away the painting for free? No, in my opion. If someone puts work into something, I think it is ok to ask money for it. Now, there are definitely some models which are overpriced, or which would be better of being free, and that is a bad thing. But, those instructions probably won't sell well, which might make the creator consider to lower the price for future models. I guess the price and amount of paid instructions is based on the current market, and apparently there is a market for it. Besides that, Lego isn't cheap, so if you can make some money with it to fuel your future endeavours, why not? Edit: I wanted to add, since the lego for the MOCs can be quite expensive (especially for larger models), is it a problem to pay a fraction of that for (reasonably priced) instructions? This way you can also support the creator.
  17. I like this one a lot. The bodywork is very clean, and the stripe is a nice touch
  18. Wow, I'm amazed... I saw 1:15, so I was expecting a smaller build, well let's just say this is not what I expected. Great job!
  19. I like the style you went with, looks very good. Can’t wait to see the final result!
  20. Great work! Interesting read, I like the functions you managed to implement. The mechanics are the most fun part of a build, so doing a series like this seems like a good solution. Looking forward to your next builds!
  21. @amorti Yes, the grey spring is the heave spring. It acts when both sides are compressed. The anti-roll bar acts when the car is rolling, so they indeed have some opposing purposes. The goal is to achieve a nice balance of mechanical grip and to give a stable platform for aerodynamic purposes
  22. @higgins91 Yep, there are 2 yellow shocks in the back, and more aren't needed, they are connected to a sort of rocker which amplifies the motion of the hubs quite a bit, making the suspension very stiff. @Andman They get pushed of ever so slightly, so far it hasn't been a problem, but I might take a close look at it again. As for why I didn't use 3L pins on the rear, that's a leftover construction from earlier prototypes, I'll change it, thanks for pointing it out! @TeamThrifty Thanks! :D I very much enjoy mechanical challenges like builing that
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