Techniccrack
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Everything posted by Techniccrack
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thnx man, What i still have to do: LIghting on the model itself. Iam working on it right now. • The most difficult part is the lighting on the seats (previous posts). There will be el wires on the seats and arms. THe slipring must be mounted • The lighting on the center part is easy.(5 volt usb led strips with remote control. Instead of an usb i use a 5 volt small battery. • Lighting on the head will be also led strip. powered by the 12 volts slip contact on the main cilinder (through the arms to the head). The spider on top must be rebuild AND lightened also • stage effect lights (strobelights, led controlled flash lights, smoke machine. • the back stage (graphics of spiders etc) • rebuilding the cash cabin • Building the second transport trailer (this part ois not important for the exibition, and that will be the last part i would build So still busy working on it! :)
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no update. just a stage light impression....
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The main reason for the scale is to the possibility to make everything fit (the systems that i want). I wanted bigger then 1:43 scale and not "creator " style. With technic the scale is always bigger. The use of the gear racks is a little coincidence that the main cilinder was the same scale as the second version (with the tracktires). I have tried to make it bigger then technic figure scale but the weight was the limited factor. So this scale was the biggest that was possible with the functions for a smooth rotation and the most important function: the lift The scale is suitable for technic minifigures A lttle progress of the lighting contacts: The copper "hubs" are in place. i need to file those to make them a little the same height. I made the 24 contact pins that will be placed inside the hubs. heres some photo's On the underside of the crosses there are 2 connectors for put the blue el wire through. On the real turbo polyp there are blue lights under the crosses. i want to recreate that: to be continued....
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A small update! Preparing the lighting on the model Electric connection through the arms and crosses My original plan was to make this with dc plugs, but the rotation has to much friction, so I ordered 6 sliprings (diameter 7,9 mm) that fits perfectly in the ends of the crosses. a Lego brick is 8 mm. it has 4 channels so perfect for the job Electric connectionfor the seats: Last week i prepared the the electric connections for the lighting on the seats. The last idea that i had didnt work (at all) So i used my old idea from 5 years ago when i was building the first polyp model. That connection worked great. Hers some photos (not much to see, but a progress is a progress :) 1 copper pipe (4mm) fits in the bigger pipe (5mm)(+ pole) in the small pipe (still working on it) will be a plastic pipe and in the plastic pipe a 1 mm piece of copper bar (- pole). A little copper piece under the connector for making contact: A lot of cutting little copper pipes and pieces of copper plates, but in the end it will working great. Here is an old short video from 5 years ago with the effect: (the seat will rotate free and still a good electric connection: to be continued!
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to bad. the project failed.. I borrowed the shrinking machine from the movie :"Honey, i shrunk the kids". but that technology was too old and i could not hook up the usb connecton to my computer to make it work...so sad :) Kidding....
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I searched for a smoke generator. And i found one:) So..soon the smoke will be added to the model..
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Really? I will look for it! Thnx
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Haha! I seriously thought about that. But smoke generators are expensive..:)
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they will be controlled by a led chaser/ running sequencer and yes, they will be flashing including strobelights and lights on model. Still working on it
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Update. Lighting the model;. I activated the first stagelights to test how it turns out.. i it turns out awesome... to be continued! why i used white? lack of grey parts! :)
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Nice job man. really cool. You really should make a video with the functionality
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Impression of the stagelights: Simple how its light up: ] To be continued...
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Little update Groundplates and stagelights A little progress The groundplates. 16 pizzapieces with in between a dark grey plate "line". on photo they are yellow, but that willl be dark grey still in progress because i have to order the plates a stagelight with leds (controlled by a chaser /running light sequencer) to be continued!
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Update. a little change of the staircases i change the look of the staircases a little. i cover the holes with dark blue tiles. i have to order the tiles for the remaining holes, but it looks better then the holes exposed. Also the beginning of the fences are done now with the walk through for buying the tickets.... (cashcabin will be changed, but that parts i have to order) to be continued...
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I knew it! Same here. it turned out not as i hoped it be. and i will change the cabin. (stairs i will think about) but lack of "normal" bricks is the issue. i will change it. thnx for the comment!
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some better pictures:
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iam not sure about anything anymore right know!:)
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Mmm.strange. i won this set in a contest. And that one was changed
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No, the set has been modified since the gear problem was known. so the sets is correct now (must be) so build it, play with it and enjoy it
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sry :) next pictures will be bigger
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A little update: progress of building the stage
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Update Building the supportframe Iam working on the dressup the underframe. 5 staircases and a little spiderweb decoration. A few progress photos: to be continued!
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great start! like it!
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thnx bro, very kind of you! Also the comments of others, its very helpfull and its getting me more exited to finish up the model
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Questions on hardcoupling
Techniccrack replied to Tarix819's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
My experience with hardcoupling is that you got definitally a litlle more torc . BUT: not every motor is reliable to get the same rpm. (so would you risk it?) 1 batterybox is enough for powering two (XL) motors (300 ma x 2). batterybox delives 800 Ma. Reducing stress on the drivetrain is to get a good ratio. (slowing down the rpm with small gear to big gear) and use 2 gears on 1 axle instead of 1). my own project requires a lot of power, and i used 2 gears instead of 1 But with rc cars that drive fast, maybe a clutch gear will help to prevent damaging the gears at a sudden stop of yur rc car U also can use the knob gears. they have zero slip.