Techniccrack
Eurobricks Citizen-
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Everything posted by Techniccrack
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Update Cash cabin The cash cabin is finished. simple design. only a few detaii decials (price board etc) must be added the cashcabin is also lightened (automatically) when the fences open, the cashcabin will be light up green. when the fences closes, the cashcabin will light up red. heres a picture [ to be continued!
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Time for a little update. Timing of lifting last weeks bus with the setup of the autorun module. the timing is everything. especially with the lift operation. the hub is pushing a lever in the cilinder that activate the lift. the duration of the activation of the liftlever is very very important. Also when the lifthead goes down, the process must be exactly the same as going up. So that was a struggle to accomplish. but i figured it out. this is the autorun lift module part: A little explanation: the hub goes around in the cilinder. the hub pushes a lever that set a switch to 1 side. the lifthead is going upwards that swich also activates the m motor you see in the picture. there is a pushrod with two end 90 degerees apart from eachother. the pushrod starts turning and pushes the switch back after 14 seconds. the lift stops on the other end of the cilinder there is aso a lever that pushes the switch, but now the other direction. the process starts again, lift is going down, the pushrod is rotating and pushes the switch back. the duration of this is also excactly 14 seconds, so the lifthead will be going back to the starting position since the motor is running always te same speed, the duration of the lifting will be the same. Timer clock Also the rest of the timerclock is configured now. all switches are operating perfect. also a few leds added (also the eye want something:) a photo how the clock looks now: the long led light will be changing color during the running of the clock backstage Also the backstage is now finished. A decided that it is better to make this full out of Lego elements, and not a print or whatever. Also the spiderweb theme is added to this so here is how it looks: ttats it for now. more to come
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Dude, you are amazing. I ve watched every single video of yours. Very impressive stuff, and most of all very simple builds Love it!
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thnx Update I worked on the dress up of the model, detailing and further improvements on the clock and autorun module i added trans tiles on it for the looks, also a led strip is added on the 'tower' and around the clock (not on photo). When the clock starts tikking, the lights lit up. When the model starts running the lights will be turned of. All due the auto run module here a photo of it: Automatic fences I figured, would it be nice to make automatic fences around the model. so i did. Not all fences but 4 sections of the pizzapieces i have rebuild to make this work. From the autorun module there is a extra switch added that operates a servo motor. that servo will activate the 4 axles hat are connected to the 4 "fence door plates" So a few second the polyp will start moving, the fence doors will be closed automatically. When the polyp stops the doors will ben opened. a few photos: A open/ close mechanism that will be places under the pizzapiece: The servomotor with the axles (placed under the mid frontpizza piece: ] A part of the groundfloor with 2 fence doors closed: And open: Also a extra switch i have added on the manual controller This was it for now To be continued!
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UPDATE! Its been a while simce the last update, but here its is: Lighting The lighting of the whole model is finished. The led lights on the models arms, head and excentric cilinder are led strips. i dont like the look of this strips, so i added transparent Lego tiles on it, to cover the led strips. here is a photo of an arm: it looks better and the light has now a little gradient from blue, green yellow and orange to it Main chassis I had to do small upgrades to the main chassis. A little wiring work, stronger chassis and a little gear problem is fixed. Also i had to add hubs for the hoses from the smoke machine. the hoses are not Lego. The hoses will be very hot and the smoke machine will create water vapor, so the hoses must have a diametere of 1 cm minimum. So i used waterhoses from the carparts shop, works great and easy detachable: Autorun module and clock The autorun module ive made with the chain system didnt works out so well, unfortunally. But ive made a better one, with 2 cilinders. 1 cilinder contains a rotating hub that push the levers inside the cilinder to the correct position.each lever operates a switch that start a function. the hub goes round in about 2,5 minutes (1 complete run of the model) All functions will be operated, including the smoke machine, strobe light, lift, etc etc. when the hub has made 1 full rotation, the hub in the second cilinder is starting to rotate, along with a clock. this clock rotates 1 full round in 3,5 minutes. that is the waitingtime for the next run of the polyp This system is perfect for events and fairs, because operating the model by hand is a hard time business a whole day. And conitue running of the model will wear out the gears. Here are 2 pictures of this (very complicated) module (naked version) Thats it for now. To be continued!
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Lighting update! I finished up the lighting for the head. Next thing to do is light up the spider on top of it and bulld the drag contact Here's how it looks: very cool, my opinion I will finish the model, back to the attic, building up the model from bottem up, the bearing rings will be placed between the cilinders, floorplates will be added, stagelights and stage just to be ready for the next video with the whole thing in motion to be continued!
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Video is in productio. but its take a while to finish. But am promise it will be a kickass ride:)
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Model lighting update! and photo thnx for the nice comments. I had a problems with some light wires. Problem is solved (a bad connection in the cilinder). The whole model is now nearly finished. Only the head will get a couple of round lights on tbut here it is for now: I feel a little in heaven right now and never thought i pull this complicated wiring off. hope you guys enjoy it to be continued!
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Time for a update! Control panel and change of lift controller The control panel is now ready. I had to adjust the lift controller, because i changed the remote control operation to a " solid cable" connection. I build in another slipring that goes through the center units up to the exentric with a Lego PF connector. Its better handling.Plus when use of the automatic program unit it must contain a steady connection because of the timing. When a remote signal is lost for only half a second the timing is not good anymore. So i had to replace the remote controller on the panel with a cabled switch the control panel needs new stickers, so pictures will follow heres a picture of the slipring that goes through the center unit:| Lightingconnections Last few weeks working on the connection for the lights. very tricky job, but its finished. Main voltage is 12v. this goes due a copper contact into the main cilinder. from there its split 3 ways. to Inverters: 2 wires with 12 volts goes to 2 inverters for powering the EL wire. from a single inverter there is a split in two way. 4 signal wires goes to 4 lego connectors on the side of the main cilinder. I used hub 1 and 2 on the lego connector to Led strip 1 wire goes to a voltregulator that has an output of 5 volts. from there there is a 4 way split that leads to the lego connector (hub 3 and 4) The arms will be connected to the Lego connectors. very steady connection and easy to disconnect. So a lot of connectios had to be made, but it worked out great. here is a sneak peek of the lighting on the arms, crosses and seats: ] some el wire strings doesnt work properly. i still working on that Thats it for now. more to come!
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A small update Control panel I added the stickers on the control panel. it turns out nice to be continued
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A small update. I forgot 1 switch on the controll panel. The switch for the lower cilinder. so a new photo: The red round trans red bricks are lights whitch lit up when the power for the functions is active (a little "system ready" check) Switch for logo lighting Switch for stagelights Switch for model lighting (and stroboscope). the lighting on the model shut down when strobelight is active Switch for activate the excentric Switch for control the lower cilinder (on, off and reverse) Control of the main cilinder Lifting switch Smoke switch Music switch on and off
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Update! Control panel I nearly finished up the control panel for manually control of the model. only thing left do is add some stickers. From left to right: Switch for logo lighting Switch for stagelights Switch for model lighting (and stroboscope). the lighting on the model shut down when strobelight is active Switch for activate the excentric Control of the main cilinder Lifting switch Smoke switch Music switch on and off To be continued!
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Update! Improvements Last weeks worked on the improvemens on the model Head I covered the wiring in the head. It looked a bit messy. every spiders leg has a light wire on them. so there is a big "pile" of all those wires Now all the internal wiring is covered up as much as possible. 1 wire is connected to the main cilinder through one arm Head arm connections the weight of the arms is pulling the head down. the 6 connectors between the arms and head was nearly toucing the excentric (2 mm space_/ so i changed the beam into cormner beams. problem fixed Head lightning the eyes and the legs are ligtened. Heres a example of how it looks. on the lower half of te head there will be a little led strip (not on picture Main cilinder improvements The main cilinder suffered from slippery rubber wheels. I changed the rubber band with a 3d printed ring with tooth. it works great (previous post) Electric connections The connections for lightning i had to do that with crown stones and covered these up behind a beam. Because the model must be able to go on transport i wanted that the connectors could be hooked and unhooked fast. So i mounted 4 power functions connectors between the arm connections. works great. The pf connectiors on the arms can be stacked (1 connectord for 2 arms) and its an easy connections Drivetrain lower cilinder I noticed that the 4 gears that drives the lower cilinder starting to slide upwards on the axles while rotating. The gears of the crosses are driven 2 mm above that gears, so there was a risk of stall of the whole model so a made a little modification.The lower cilinder is now 3 studs instead of 2. above the gears i added a beam that holds the gears in place Excentric Pure a dressing up for the excentric. i covered the led strips with trans blue tiles and the top part is dressed up better Thats it for now. to be continued
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The new drivering is also an experiment at my work (new laser cutter machine). Iam upgrading the model now, and maybe i will go back to the rubber wheels like you said. But i think space limits are the issue. but i will look it over. The head in the video is at half height. This was after 3 days on the event that the footage was shot, and due the slip problem i ran it at this height, just to make sure the model would keep rotating. in this video the maximum height is shown: (just a lift test a few months ago: With lower cilinder and main rotation of the model, the variable speed is of the crosses is 1 rotation in 0,7 seconds to compete standstill to even backwards Next event where i stand with the model is the "bouwen en zo" event in Hoogenveen in march the 30 and 31th 2019
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I did use spray to lube the rotationpoint of the head.not the gears I will look at it for uocoming events
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I know its a bit cheaty (sry :)) the black stuff is indeed rubber left overs and black geardust i have to clean it out. The copperband is also weared out and must be replaced
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Upgrade update! First upgrade of the mechanics. The main drive cilinder suffered from lack of grip. the rubber wheels keep spinning but the model was not moving good enough. I had the option to replace the rubber band around the cilinder with tracks. but that coaused a problem with the electric copper ring. So...i have made something myself. Its not Lego, but the same ABS material. I designed a toothed ring exspecially for the cilinder. A little measuring and digital sculpting to make a the teeth exactly the same size as Lego teeth. Diamater 16,7 cm and laser cutted myself. So no more slipping rubber. Turned out great and perfect fit to be continued!
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Fog is already there. I am upgrading the model right now And i will make video (in hd) with a complete fully operating model. A little more patience. Video is coming soon!
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Update! Footage from the exhibition LegoWorld, a great experience, and also a good test for the model. Afterwards there a a lot of geardust under the model,the main rotating axles were 20% thinner and the main cilinder suffered from slippery surface, so at the end the model didnt spin great anymore. But a great lesson for the next exhibition. Here a small video of the Turbo Spider in action on the exhibition. The mechanical programmer wasnt finished on time. Also not all the light systems are working (it was also very bright on the exhibition) The time was killing me to make it all work properly, and a lot things must be done to improve the model. But enjoy!:
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Thnx everyone. I had a great time on Lego world. The model is now back to the worktable. Adding new gears, axles and working on the improvements to make it better. After 3 days spinning i now know what the flaws are. Nice to see forum members in real life:)