cehnot

Comparing the ship to the original Pirates of Barracuda Bay Ship. Side By Side: I think this illustrates the differences best. Height from waterline: I floated the set at the same height as where the waterline would be on my ship. In order to figure out where this would be I measured from the top of the ship to the bottom of the prefabricated hull pieces. I knew from the beginning I was going to use the overall design of the official set as my model reference and ultimately I made final decisions based on that set. Main changes occurred in the mid section height. I raised the midsection by 2 plates to accommodate the 2x3 black slopes into the design. This lowered the gun level, but did not compromise the design. To maintain the shorter reddish brown bow and taller reddish brown stern I used a similar curved slope design as seen in the Imperial Flagship and several custom ship mocs. This also gave me a port hole for the anchor string. I sure hope LEGO develops a new stern for ships so I can replace the custom built one. I have built the stern close to the original stern shape and size to swap out with little modifications to the design. Ship Curve: I love how they used curved slopes to create the braces on the side of the ship to help it from crashing into harbor docks or when boarding other ships. If you line up a bunch of 2x3 slopes in a row the ship loses its curving shape on the set. I saw a few people add extensions onto the original set and I did this in the first design models before abandoning the idea. Instead of getting rid of the slopes and going for a custom wall design as many other ship makers have done with their mocs, I expanded the ship's width using curved slopes and solved the wall issue that way. I also attempted several different designs with less black braces on the side of the ship similar to the Barracuda Set. There are two wooden ship replicas I found with braces flowing to the back near the stern and I fell in love with that idea. It also beefed up my ship and reinforced a curving wall no matter what angle i looked at it. Even though the side profile looks fantastic, there isn't enough brown slopes to make the bottom hull exact. Ideally the bottom hull should flatten out 1 stud shorter with curved slopes. I could achieve a front profile approach but the side would not look as well since there are no wedge slopes or curved wedge slopes that have more options. I chose to design the ship with the side profile approach and use what is available to make it look good. I am quite proud of the bow updates. I added a yellow railing with black mechanical arms and extended the bow spirit forward so I would need to use 14 studs long axel rods instead of the set's 12 stud long rods. I also wanted the entire bow platform to sit at the same level as the main deck instead of halfway between decks. Most galleons did this so the crashing waves didn't flood the decks. The Bow: I kept the exterior design almost the same. Bricks were swapped out to accommodate the new changes, but overall you can see how these ships could exist in the same fleet. The Stern: I kept the entire rear cabin design close to original as possible. I narrowed the cabin by 2 studs and I felt it helps fleshing out the galleon shape. The only major difference is the addition of my gallery to the ship. One of greatest designs the model builders did for the new set was create a great silhouette stern shape. Galleons do not have such wide sterns, but the silhouette is spot on. Since ships taper to the rear, this isn't easily recreated with LEGO prefabricated hull parts. My goal for this project : Honor what was developed, but clearly define the class of ship created. The original ship is a Brig, but with Galleon shapes. Most Brigs are closer to frigates and somebody already created a wonderful Frigate Barracuda design.

Thank you. I spent so many countless hours reworking the exterior just to get the interior to work. 58 Studio files, each time the program crashed I saved it as a newer file. Glad I did because I referenced earlier designs and often mashed ideas together. As early as my first take on the model I felt like this ship should not be another re-imagination of the set, but rather a sister ship in a fleet. The original BS Barracuda was beautiful and led the design for the Skull's Eye Schooner. You can see the similarities in each ship design. I would argue the new Barracuda at Pirates Bay is the new definitive model and isn't taking place in an alternative timeline, but rather considered the same vessel. I took some of the history from the original LEGO comic, character backstories and devised a possible future where this ship would exist. While working on the ship several people attempted and succeed in making a Frigate based on the set. I love the Barracuda Frigate and this deeply inspired the concept that this was build by the same dockyard with the same characteristics as other ships at the time. This secured my idea that this ship is part of a fleet with similar designs for that time period. Spain and England built fleets based on their newest understanding of what was successful with past ships. Each ship was different, but evolved rom earlier designs or failed attempts. Pirates hardly ever owned the ship, but rather stole it from people, or was captain of the vessel while working under a contract for the Crown or Armada. Most privateers who turned to piracy used these same ships for their adventures. Roger Redbeard's LEGO description claims he was originally Spanish and I assume based on the various European accounts LEGO wrote as character descriptions and concluded in an official LEGO Pirates comic, he turned to piracy. Now that I am happy with the design, I need to find out if there is a way to easily subtract the parts from the set or 2 sets as I now own and find out what I still need to buy. I do not know how to do this. I know bricklink offers wishlists for parts, but I need to subtract parts from another wishlist or something similar to this concept. This was a real struggle. I wanted to maintain the majority of the exterior characteristics as possible. I would say I maintained about 70% or higher of the exterior shapes used throughout the ship. The cabin, forecastle, and walls are basically the same shape, but I realized early on that I could not use the same building techniques to construct this expanded set. Gutting the interior made my exterior change. I did include a bunch of newer parts added in late 2020/early 2021 on this newer model I felt could help it. The only parts that are not color accurate are the doors. I have a 2x2 curved tile in brown and it has yet to be made into that color. Black looks okay, but that is one part I hope comes soon in an upcoming set. Other than that I think exporting a parts list will help me find if I missed any other part not currently available. From what I tried to do from the beginning was use only parts in those colors. But some techniques led to using 2021 parts and now some of those parts are offered in black so I think it will be fine. Most the parts that are used in the newer offers in 2021 are hidden. I just tried to make the entire ship 4 basic colors: black, brown, yellow, and white. I am sure there are plenty of areas people could change the color to make it cheaper, i just like these colors where I used them. Brown for the wood on the gun level and orlop level reminds me of fresh wood, the dark tan looks like dried out and sun beaten decks. Black and white would obviously be used for painted areas.

Good Idea, Modified the post and posted in the Pirate Moc Forum

The Golden Age of Piracy: 1650-1720 Imperial Ship Name: The Camilla (1708, East India Trade Company), Broadside's Revenge (1711, Protection of Port Royal) The Seven Seas Barracuda (1714, Captain Redbeard at Pirates Cove) Commissioned by the Imperial Fleet in 1705 Dockyard Construction: Port Royal, 3 years. Launched: 1708 Owners: Captain George Tucker, The Royal Navy, East India Trading Company (1708-1711) (deceased) Captain William Tierney, The Royal Navy, Imperial Navy, The Governor's Fleet in the Caribbean 1711-1714) Captain Roger Redbeard 1714-?) Port of Registry: Port Royal Type: East Indiaman Galleon (Sixth Rate Ship of the Line) Weapons: 26 cannons Length: 110 feet total length (110 studs) History: After years of humility, Governor Broadside rebuilds his fleet and status after the years of piracy looting and plundering Port Royal. Though the anti-piracy laws were enacted in 1687, many past governors failed to contain the issue. By the early 1700s Governor Broadside was placed in charge of Port Royal and was cherished for his attack on the pirates. Captain Redbeard commanded several smaller ships before commandeering the Imperial Brig he stole in the Black Seas. His Mediterranean pirate days were done and ready to expand in larger waters. After several years ransacking ports in the Middle east and Asia he made his way towards the Caribbean where he met his match. He pillaged and plundered small trading posts and eventually attacked larger merchant vessels in open water. Governor Broadside sent a fleet after The Black Seas Barracuda and fought a courageous war on open water. One night a tropical hurricane swept through the entire sea. With little to no escape, the fleet decided to chase the Barracuda into the eye of the storm making their last stand against Captain Redbeard and his crew. The fleet lost several ships during the hurricane and The Black Seas Barracuda ran the ship into a rocky cove marooning the captain and his crew. The ships collided and the Imperial ship sank to the bottom of the sea. Captain Redbeard was defeated and lost at sea. The remaining fleet lost their way and didn't realize they were several hundreds of miles away from their original position and could not find any remains in the calm sea afterwards. Governor Broadside wrote to the Crown claiming victory in defeating the remaining pirates. Captain Redbeard and his remaining crew managed to make the shipwrecked island their home by scavenging the surrounding islands for food and shelter. During his time, Governor Broadside is awarded a fleet of ships for his victory and returning Port Royal to a successful trading post and naval command center in Jamaica. He begins building rebuilding his fleet. To mark the occasion, he commissions The Sea Hawk (Caribbean Clipper), a frigate, and an indiaman galleon. Captain Redbeard and his crew are captured by the Spanish Armada on a distant island gathering supplies and trading with local natives. The same fleet he once chartered under a different name decades ago had no clue who he was or his crew. They claimed to be a merchant ship shipwrecked years ago pursuing a whale. One stormy night the Captain awakes to voices yelling from the crows nest of Imperial forces. The large Man of War Spanish ship took on cannon fire and returned the favor. Redbeard could hear the Admiral tell his navigator to head to a rocky cove. There they would counter attack the other ship and block them in the bay by luring them onto the island. This fortified treasure ship narrowly avoided the shallow waters and navigated into position. There they met the Imperial forces. A cog, two clipper,s a galleon and a frigate carrying the imperial flags. The battle began and cannon fire hit the brig knocking the metal bars loose. They quickly exited the brig and holding area taking out every soldier they came in contact with. The ship took on water and sunk into the sandbars. Soldiers abandoned the ship and headed to the island. Redbeard could see that this was a Spanish trading port without a fortress for protection. The Imperial navy surrounded the galleon setting it on fire. Redbeard and his crew swam to shore hiding in the trees watching the armies fight. The imperials started to move to land. The frigate backed away from shore and positioned themselves in open water facing the bay. The remaining crew aboard the indiamann galleon focused their attention on the shoreline and not the dense foliage to their starboard side. The remains of the Spanish galleon light the evening sky and the imperial forces claim victory as they search out the remaining Spanish soldiers. Night falls, the Fridate deploys a jolly boat to shore. The Indiaman Galleon begins to set up camp on the shoreline at the mouth of the bay. Captain Redbeard and his crew swim to the lightly defended Galleon. They wait in the water and climb up the rudder. A jolly boat returns from shore and informs the navigator and skeleton crew to position the ship near the frigate blocking all access to the port. The skeleton crew hoist the sails and begin to raise the anchor. Redbeard and his crew enter the ship from the cannon chaser ports. They swiftly make their way through the gun deck silently taking down any remaining crew. The ship begins to move turn around in the bay and Redbeard's crew successfully take command of the armory and climb their way up into the forecastle crew chambers. The dozen crew members on the main deck are not armed with any pistols and the fight breaks out on the main deck. The ship is gaining speed and the wind push the ship through the bay. The ships bell is rung as redbeard makes his way up the quarter deck and takes control of the ship. With the wind at their side and the ship gaining momentum the Imperial forces and fleet doesn't have time to react. The frigate is anchored and the remaining ships were close to shore facing the beach. Redbeard moved swiftly passed the frigate as they attempted to begin cannon fire. Within minutes Redbeard blew past ship and out of the cannon's reach. The storm masked their cover and disappeared. That night Captain Redbeard rummaged through the Great Cabin reading letters from the Crown. He found the charters and commission detailing the ships history and travel logs. Broadside's Revenge. Captain Redbeard just stole his arch enemy's newly commissioned ship. Redbeard charted a course to Pirate Cove to retrofit the ship and add a beautiful black, white, and yellow coat of paint to this boring brown ship. The Barracuda Returns! MODULAR DESIGN The ship still separates into 3 parts, but not in the same location. I added a mid section on the bow and stern to make the ship separate into equal thirds. This also helps reinforce the structural integrity and make sure the sides do not collapse. Removable Floors: For multiple display purposes I thought of options and how it could be displayed as a cross section or give it a play factor and make sure people can access different parts of the ship. I placed hinges and locking hinges that you just need to remove a few tiles and multiple sections of the walls can come off quite easily, but not fall apart. When you see the interior you will see how this works because I grouped these sections to hide areas easily, but also show off the modular parts. THE EXTERIOR Race-built galleons ranged from 70 to 100 feet long from bow to rudder. I am proud to say my ship is 73 studs long and I usually try to design my stuff within a 1:40 to 1:45 ratio so that would be about 1 stud per foot. The Race-Built inspired Galleon maintains the theme designed by LEGO's Barracuda. I did struggle building a ship based on the design elements in the original Brig. The most difficult decision was to abandon the pre-fab hull pieces. The hull shape may have changed in the stern, but I did figure out how to maintain the brown color all the way up to the cabin like the set. The other challenge was keeping the same brown color flow up on the bow similar to the original set. These were more difficult than I expected because the water line was raised almost 2 bricks. I kept the original ship next to the new ship at the same water line height so I knew that my ship did not exceed the other ship in height based on that location. The LEGO set water line is located at the bottom of the prefab hulls. My water line is located at the bottom of the curved slopes. Quarter Deck: 1. Navigation Box: There are containers located behind the mizzen mast. I debated on making a navigation box somewhere on the deck to house the maps and such. Most ships have them located in front of the wheel or attached o the wheel. Since race-built ships do not have navigation rooms I decided to use the place between the stains as a great location for the navigation compartment to house all these items. 2. The Wheel: I made slots and have a tube area to run string down to the rudder tiller that I plan to do so its a functional wheel. 3. Skylight: Sorta impractical in case they get boarded. I really liked the skylight idea on the Black Pearl and most ships didn't have them because you could shoot at the enemies inside the cabin from above. My older design had a smaller one that would be more in line with skylights on ships in the 17th century, but frankly I loved the larger skylight design I came up with. Main Deck: 1. Bilge Pumps: These pumps are usually located on the gun deck or the main deck. I chose to place them on the main deck next to the main mast like many english galleons. These pumps help keep the ship from taking on too much water and run down to the bottom of the ship. They usually are wider at the bottom as well. I used the new candle pieces and then round 1x1 bricks at the bottom to simulate this. You can see them on the right and left side of the main mast. 2. Gallery: I love balconies on ships. The gallery design was always something I thought the Barracuda could have if the cabin was not as wide as the set. When I narrowed the cabin by 2 studs the graceful swooping effect from the rear sides of galleons really made it appear aerodynamic. The gallery was added using the same proportions as in the specs I have for reference. I love the underside details holding up the balcony. I reused this idea a few times around the ship to hold up the mast rigging platforms. 3. Stern Hull: I decided to custom build the stern hull since I looked at my mint old brown hull pieces I purchased and it looks too weird against the reddish brown especially when you see the interior. 4. Jolly Boats: Galleons usually had two types of row boats on their ship. The larger jolly boat and the scout boat. I wanted to make sure that the smaller boat fit inside the prefabricated boat like most storage. The great part is they do not exceed the forecastle which my earlier reference depicts. It looks best with only 1 boat and the cargo grates are large enough to house the boat inside the gun deck if I wanted to so this was not even an issue. 5. Side Walls: The higher side walls on the main deck were common on galleons. I know the official set used a railing, which is common with most merchant ships, but many were retrofitted with solid walls and added cannon ports. Ships built with this in mind were taller and both the railing and the solid side wall height are the same. I feel like it kept emphasizing the sloping effect moving up the ship. THE INTERIOR: This was the most difficult part of this ship. The prefabricated hull pieces only allow you to go 16 studs wide and I didn't want the top-down profile to look ridiculous so I kept it slim like many race-built galleons. I would actually make the front 1/3 bulge out another 2 studs wider if I could, but I didn't want to stray too far from the original set. Main Deck: 1. The Captain's Cabin/Great Cabin: Several of the reference I have show short storage rooms beneath the cabin. Many of these I found had hatches only in the captains chambers. I assume this would be hidden by a rug or something. Either way I added it to the ship using a speed champion frame. I made a set of matching bookshelves as well. I felt the statue bust needed a place to sit. The captains bed is now a large chest that can be removed and house his cutlass or other larger items. 2. The Quartermaster and First Mate/ Sleeping Quarters: 2 beds with chests. The hinges flip up the beds to house their outfits or weapons. 3. Guest or Officers Sleeping Quarters: 2 beds turned upright for cannon placement. This room is used for guests or Pilot or surgeon/carpenter. The main capstan is located here. The 4 bars to slide into the capstan are clipped to the wall. This room usually exits the ship. The doors are often taken of their hinges to easily access the capstan. Doors are usually put back on hinges during wartime, or when guests arrive. 4. Forecastle/ Boatswain and Master Quarters: 2 beds flip up for the chairs to sit and enjoy company. The table flips down to uncover a hatch hole for the stairs to the armory. Gun Deck: 1. Carpenter/Blacksmith Workshop: The rear facing cannons also reside here. The workshop has a hatch in the floor to access the treasure storage. 2. Gun and Access Floors: The floor is removable between support beams to access the cargo hold below. Plenty of place to store lots of loot, food, beer, rum, water, flour, etc. From Back to front: Treasure hold has metal bars in front to separate the hold from rest. Also can serve as a brig. 3. Cook's Station: Access to the brick oven under the stairs. Both sides of the ship serve as a preparation area for all the crew members. 2 tables and plenty of clips to hang pots, pans, utensils. 4. Armory/Crew Dining Area: The armory has the keg tap, plenty of space to add barrels for storing swords and such. This same area also has the crew dining table area and sitting. 5. Hammocks: All throughout the deck are modified bricks with handle located on the support beams. These are for hanging hammocks throughout the gun deck for crews to sleep. I plan on making 8 hammocks out of fabric based on the official set shape, but make it 7 to 8 studs long instead of 10 studs long. Orlop Deck: Brig/Treasure Hold: Made of black metal frame and walls to help define area. Takes up the entire area under the carpenters room to the back of the ship. Magazine Storage: First hatch/access area Beer Storage: Second hatch/access area Water Storage: Third hatch/access area Flour and food Storage: behind and around kettle oven General stores: front half of ship Masts and Rigging: String will be added to the physical model when I gather all the parts. I wish LEGO created a new set of rigging that fans out from a vertical line instead of making it fan out from the center. One of my goals was to make the rigging feel like it was fanning out from the vertical line. I did this with a complex attachment rigging concept where I used bars, bar clips, and round tile with a bar parts. I think this works effectively well. I also wish they would offer various heights and widths with the sets. My proposal makes use of the current parts with custom cut to either make them shorter or narrower. I have a bunch of rigging from a eBay haul of random pirate parts. These are the only parts I will modify. The rigging will be LEGO. I will be using black string and plastic rigging pieces. The one thing that is different is the custom plastic medium rigging in the front and the proposed small rigging in the rear. These are built with the actual plastic rigging pieces, but I am cutting them down to fit.

A combination of an Indiaman and Galleon. The rest of the photos and such are in a new Pirate Moc topic since this ship has now moved quite away from the original set. I present: The Seven Seas Barracuda For More photos and info to come, please feel free to swing over to my Pirate Moc topic link below The Seven Seas Barracuda Moc Link MODULAR DESIGN

I will have my newest version completed this week. It has 5 mid sections, a captain's cabin and officer quarters for the quartermaster and second mate in the rear. I used the various reference and information about galleon living to make the the forcastle interior living quarters for the next ranking officers so that all officers are on the main deck. Two capstans are located on this level. The gun level houses the connected second level capstans and crew quarters including the stove below the main cargo access hold in front of the main mast. The orlop deck contains the cargo and brig.

You want a quality photo of the new ship I am working on from a top down 45 degree angle or similar to the other ship posted above? I meant to say brace. The original ship was only 4 mid section hull pieces long. The ship was the same height as the System Set. That is why I abandoned the file I offered above. I started to make it 5 mid sections long and this felt right. Before the 1700s Galleon ships were extremely tall and short. By the time the Spanish Armada went to war with the British Galleon ships were getting bigger. I am not focusing on the Man of war ship line, but rather a more smaller trader vessel. These galleons were 3 to 4 decks tall. The English made race galleons which were shorter than the spanish fleet and basically cut the top poop deck off. This is where I am trying to decide what type of ship I am doing. The current file I am working with actually is more a race-built galleon without a poop deck or room for a navigation room. This was what I was having hard time deciding. How tall do i want it and every time i saw it with another room above the great cabin I struggled with looking at the thing and wondering if it was too heavy in the rear. Ultimately I decided to ignore the poop deck and navigation room and focus on adding a skylight like I showed earlier in the posts. So far I am trying to make the height of each deck about 4 to 5 bricks tall. The newer hull pieces with a brick-built stern gives me 2 studs longer to work with. It gives me the right amount of space to have 2 full beds with hanging drapes and also enough room to place the captains bed near the door in front of where the window is so i could make a 6 stud wide deck in the back. I like the idea of actually keeping the bed forward because most cabin designs of this era did not keep the beds towards the back because the charter desks would need the light from the windows. As for where I am n the new ship design: Firs photo shows where the water line would be. I am still working on the walls and such, but this gives you an idea of the profile i am going for. The ship wheel location is also something i am trying to decide on what looks better. Right now Its not placed anywhere specific. I will likely place it in front of the Mizzen mast. Top Vie of the ship looks okay. Width and length of it feels right. I have 2 boats on the ship, the prefabricated jolly boat and I made a smaller row boat to accompany it. Here are some of my reference. These are my more frequently used reference when designing the ship. The Height above the water line is actually about the same if not shorter than the system set. When you

great job. That is working out quite well.

Here is the original Studio file I did on previous pages. You will see that i tried to group sections together for you to build it better. For reference, you cans ee many of the photos for the file in my bricksafe page. Barracuda Galleon Studio Download The one thing I did that isnt historically accurate was do the main deck cannon ports above the bracers. The ship felt better at this scale to have them inserted here and it hides them well. The are where the rigging attaches are easy to subtract and modify that area to fit the standard LEGO plastic rigging. I wish LEGO created a newer stern part or split it into a top and base like the front boat hull pieces. I keep going back and forth on so many issues with the ship. I like the ship I build above, it fits well with the other system ships, but I keep trying to build a full ship with 3 to 4 decks and still fit within the same scale. I am struggling with making hard decisions. I decided to make the ship a small-medium size galleon ship. 1. Pre-fab stern hull or brick-built stern hull. I widened the ship by 2 bricks on the lower sides. I used the curved sloped to help establish that curve effect. They raise the ship almost 2 studs higher. The water line should be where the curved slopes begin and if I wanted to display the ship "sitting above water" i would probably need to create a baseplate design so the ship would sit on the table at the correct height above water. The newer prefab hull pieces make this work perfectly, except we do not have a new stern piece that splits. I like this brick-built stern shape if I were to not use the older bow and stern pieces. It would also allow me to use all new reddish brown parts and keep the color consistent. The shape of the brick-built stern looks fine at most angles. I am not sure if wedge plates and tiles will, have not focused on finishing it yet. 2. The rear half of the ship profile bugs me to death. I never liked the older design I did because it was too tall in the back. Every blueprint I have of 17th century galleon ships Almost every single cross section shows the interior height about 5 to 6 ft tall. The quarter deck area usually is shoulder length so around 4-5 ft tall. With this said, I gutted the entire ship to work with this idea and i struggle with adding a navigation room above the great cabin area since it would be tall enough. That is why the yellow sticks out further above the cabin. Suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated.

I have retooled the entire ship since that model was designed. I gave up on widening the ship the way i talked about. I am on Version 44 now. I save a new file each time the program crashes and auto recovery occurs. I will gladly give away the Studio File for that model since I abandoned it. Anybody who wants the model I designed earlier this last year just let me know.

You can find plain white replacement sails on eBay for the ship if you want. Several vendors have them for this set. I am purchasing a few double sided set of sails got my upcoming mod.

That is one crazy cross section. I guess when I built this model I would have to play around with it. The only way to figure it out would test your structural frame. Thanks for the reply. The ship is amazing in design and I wouldn't even try to build my own version. This will be my definitive version. I still have not built the Millennium Falcon because people keep improving it and soon the Marshal Banana version will have instructions. I love how everything on this model is built without stickers. I saw those yellow stripes on the ship and am glad you did this with bricks.

Based on the design and internal structure, does this ship have the ability to be modified to accomidate room behind the cockpit with a ladder going down to the area? Not a huge deal, but I did purchase the canopy now that LEGO restocked the set and a bricklink seller had it for $8.

He posted the how to on the dock rings for a few months then took it down. I wish i saved them on the computer.

My X-wing design is about 42 bricks long, minifigs scale to 1:35. The build is slightly longer than the Official set, but scaled to match my other vehicle collection. It looks great next to the Falcon. I plan on doing a modified falcon like the forums or take the parts and make something closer to Marshal Bananas design. If you have any other questions feel free to ask or message me. If anybody needs the file private message me. I'll be sharing them thos week. For all other customizations I did in this thread, such as ion cannons, you can message me if you plan on doing this and I can share my experience with you.

Private message me your email

If anybody wants the digital file let me know. I may not have time to make instructions.

Once the ship is complete may ve I'll have both options for people. The masts are easy to convert.

I will once I figure out the final ship. I have wanted to do a full set of rigging, but I may do it in 2 stages. The file was completed, but I am not sure how to separate out the parts from the original set. If anybody can tell me how to do this I will gladly offer this list. I was planning on doing the sails as if they were different fabric so wasn't sure how to get the sails a different color. I think I will use waterproof ink. Would you rather see rigging or lego style masts? I'll try to show the while ship. I just purchased 2 Pirates of Barracuda Bay sets from the official website. The second is for my stepson. I'm putting together a bricklink order for other pieces.

greatly appreciated. I'll probably start making instructions to thos model and offer it up for sale.

Thanks. I guess the download page is gone now. I need to fond a better place for people to do that. Or make instructions.

I get a lot of requests for my models I render in Stud.io and people tend to be upset because i do not provide instructions for these files. I do not have a lot of free time and I was wondering if there are people in the community who enjoy doing this and would offer these services? I would rather partner up with people on this and continue designing models. In the past i gave the model files away for free, but I understand that a person who would spend the time building instructions would want to profit on their time. I just want to make sure people have a fun time building the models.

The 1989 Batmobile, Duck car, Batskiboat, and Batwing will have instructions and provided part list. If you have not seen them, you can follow my brick safe account at https://bricksafe.com/pages/cehnot or my flickr page at https://www.flickr.com/photos/144598397@N06/albums

Final Masts ready for rigging. I am looking forward to purchasing the set when it they restock it. The masts are no higher than the original set. I only placed the main yard and fore yard lower to allow string to hold up the bottom sails. I think i may do my own custom sails and try to dye or color them with red stripes. What do you guys think?

Twin Pines Mall Fox Photo stand is probably one of the more difficult items to reference. These stands exist in the USA, but hardly any photos exist. They were purchased from Kodak in 1986 and quickly converted into their stands or demolished. I built this model without an interior hoping to return to it someday. The current stand cannot be built since it is made of yellow glass parts. I could do the entire thing in bricks, but this would be the ideal design. I may return to it with what is currently available I guess one could always use yellow paper and place it into the frames.