Divitis

You have my top score and respect for engineering (moral?) integrity

Thanks. This bad news is provably the push I needed. I created x71 in Studio in three different shapes and it was surprisingly quick. Once I have the others done too I'll create a pack and share it.

Hello everyone, does anybody know how to include rubber belts and cables (led lights, motors) when creating instructions? They don't need to be flex pieces, just placeholders would be enough, I think. Maybe someone has a parts pack that includes them? Thanks!

I'll start with the lessons learned. When designing a parallel axis gearbox... ... the input should be on the highest gear, and then only reduced from there... ... big 'jumps' should always be avoided. By this I mean meshing gears very different in size, like a 12 and a 28... ... big gears transfer movement more smoothly than the smaller ones. Now, with the design history. The original gearbox (here the post) was going like this: Input on the 1st/2nd gear shaft where it arrived already slowed down to 0.14 : 1. Which meant the 1st gear was 0.11 to 1 and the 5th gear was then geared up to 0.51 to 1. It worked only because it run so slow, but it was massively inefficient. I learned this the hard way after implementing the first working version fitting in the new small pistons, where I kept realistic rations between gears but started from a 1:1 input on the 1st gear shaft. Weeks of digital work for something that could not be moved past second gear. Come in the ultimate (dare I say final?) design: Input (orange) on the 5th/R shaft from where it gets geared down to 0.34 : 1 for the 1st gear. (output is brown) Note the half stud offset of the engine shaft, this allows two things: Fitting in the worm screw used for steering which connects to the tan pin with axle and squeezing two 16t gears underneath. Unfortunately the newer spur version collides, so I had to use the old one. I am also happy about only using 3L rings as mode switches (on the input and output axles), as they don't need a locking system. Oh, and obtaining Reverse and the corresponding reduction by only adding one extra gear (the red 24t meshes back into the green 2ot which the 5th gear uses). Here's the final result (WIP build) The final massive headache after bracing all gears and the links was connecting the engine shaft to something.. anything really... I could not find any space to add as much as a half bush for a pulley. Until it dawned on me to simply insert a red belt between the cam piece and the 2L driving ring sitting on the output shaft. Next up: Instructions WIP Does anyone feel like reviewing what I got so far for clarity, so that I can continue with piece of mind? So far they cover the first part of the front axle and steering. Thanks in advance for the help!

Very belated update, but I was too busy building. - spent almost 3 weeks designing a smaller and more efficient gearbox, finally fitting in the Kawasaki pistons, will indulge you with that next ;) Now on the sagging of the front axle, the problem became apparent only after recording the video, which meant a lot of pushing on the hood, which wouldn't happen during normal racing. But I could not unsee it. The reason was the black pins holding the connector in place were being pulled out. In green below: force applied either on the hood or pushing the wheel up (green) and the connector being pulled out (purple). On the right the new assembly. On one side thisis firmly in place through the axle connection on one side. On the other, the 6L thin liftarm makes it so that for one connector to be pulled out, the other would have to be pulled in. Problem solved. Next up: A most efficient gearbox.

This is adorable! I love how the driver pulls and pushes those lever, it makes me forget that there are motors at all!

So here we go again. One post at a time, I'll share everything I found unsatisfactory with the "final" model (as in the video above) and the progress in improving things. First off: The real axle. The Ferrari drives noticeably slower in reverse than forward and the culprit seems to be the linking I iterated on many times. Still not that good, clearly. I managed to reintroduce the ball joint (which always felt truer to the original schematic anyway) by inclining it at the right angle to create the 1/2 stud offset that's needed to keep the car level. Kinda proud of the solution because it needs only 2 u-joints instead of 3 (before I was mentally stuck to using 2 u-joints to create the offset and one more inside the ball-joint, and there was no space for all). The grey thin 5l liftarm it rests on removes the inherent flex. As a bonus, now the switch lock for direct drive (yellow assembly with the grey 3L bar) is much more elegant and functions better; before it felt a bit fiddly. Side note: There is something very relaxing in perfecting a model. Small improvements are inherently easier to pull off and yet one leads to the next until the whole design is simply a better one. Next up: Sag in the front suspension.

The video is finally out. Also, a major mechanical design cleanup is ongoing. Will post about it soon enough.

Which part is this? I think I missed its reveal

Brilliant solution to create an offset. I cannot wait to have the occasion to steal it!

Looks very ingenious!👍

LEGO MOC Ferrari SF90 Stradale 1:8 Scale by Lukas2020 | Rebrickable - Build with LEGO LEGO MOC Ferrari SF90 Stradale ver. 2.0 Assetto Fiorano MOD LeMans Livery 1:8 Scale by Lukas2020 | Rebrickable - Build with LEGO

Very glad if it helps. It was a nice bedtime puzzle :)

I'd do this. No exposed colorful pins (I assumed the black one on the right represents the door handle) The highlighted piece is obviously 32054. Edit: I just realized the long connector on the left is free to rotate, even though with quite some friction. I'm not sure what's connected to it in your model so hopefully doesn't matter.

Looks like you can replace them for frictionless gray ones on the doors

I couldn't find gray backdrops at the time, so I went for black. Which I must say I quite like, although it seems I'm the only one. To me there's no lack of detail in the model itself, and that's what I find most important. Thanks! As soon as the video is ready I'll make a proper presentation thread. For now, there's the WIP:

Maybe you can remove the cv joint entirely and angle the steering column by meshing two bevel gears at the desired angle? Of course, you'd have to rework how the movement is transmitted there so that the final gear stand straight on the chassis (basically oriented the same way as the wheels)

Thanks for the tip. I heard of it but never tried myself. I don't think it works with video though. I tinkered a bit more with the lights yesterday and managed to solve the burnt highlights. The side light is a little flat but that should not be hard to solve. I also got a recommendation from a friend to run the footage through an AI enhancement tool (Topaz AI) and I must say it does a good job, although it's easy to get too cocky with the settings and make things look fake. These are stills from the video. Thoughts? The AI enhanced version is the one with the glass. PS: Today I'm going to get two more paper panels and extend the set a bit, to be able to separate the model from the background a little more.

I also got a white background, but black just feels sexier - and hides the turntable. The point isn't avoiding the reflections, rather tuning them down so they don't burn out the whites and retain some details. I have a soft panel and a spot which I bounce off the ceiling, but than get very little out of it because of how far it is. Like they do here:

It's a very nice video, the model presentation is really clear and with really good detail. Which phone are you using? I have a Pixel7 and wasn't satisfied with the quality, easily gets too grainy (and doesn't have a zoom lenses). This is the best I got so far, the depth is still too shallow for my taste, and the model needs to be more separated from the background. I'm also very annoyed about how the white reflections immediately burn out and look flat white. It may be nice for the turntable, but in static shots is ugly and hard to control. In your video you don't have any, I'm very jealous.

Thanks! And this is a pretty picture indeed. I especially like the details in the blacks. What I have the most problems with is keeping everything in focus when filming a large model (1:8 car) without creating an excessively flat and boring image. If I step down the aperture the amount of light I need is insane while if I use a shorter lens (like a 24) the perspective becomes weird. Oh, and minimizing reflections too, any tip there would be great, please. PS for camera nerds: I have a Canon 6D mark ii, which is superb for photos, but the videos it shoots are compressed so there's no tinkering with them in post. I thought all thing was going to be simpler, instead I am on the verge of renting an Alexa.

I was thinking more along the lines of the 'axle collection thread' but for photo/video setups. Still, can you point me to those photo threads please?

Hello, is there a thread specific for advice on filming lego models?

Maybe this solution can help?