doug72

Thanks for your reply, the LEGO on line shop has two versions listed for EV3 MEDIUM motors. i.e. a Medium EV3 servo motor 45502 and a Medium motor 99455 I have just ordered from Lego a Medium EV3 servo motor, 45502 and the invoice says it is Ver. 6. The GBC train module I have been building uses PF componants with a PF M motor to drive it, works OK on manual control OK but unable to work out reverser timing timing to syncronise the required movements. Hence I will use EV3 to control instead. It will use the same train reverser from my Gantry Crane GBC EV3 train module but the main drive will use EV3 medium servo motor. There is not enough room to use the Large Servo EC3 motor without a total re-build.

Agree too much emphasis on super / hyper cars be they big or small.

Is there a difference between a EV 3 Servo Motor 45503 & a EV3 medium motor 99455 ? If so which is best for runng a GBC module ?

“As I am locked down due to CV-19 I9 and the sunny wearther we are having in the UK I decided to set up all my Train GBC modules on the decking in our garden. Things went well until some trains would not work correctly in the elevator section, with lots of gear grinding noise from the train car. This only occured with the L motor train cars. My elevator is the worn drive version. Train cars with M motors work OK but are slower After a lot of investigation found that under load as elevator near to fully raised the L motor 20T bevel gear was skipping on the 12T bevel gear drive shaft as that end was lifting up slightly. A succesful mod was made to prevent this - see photos. Further testing revealed a new problem, train docked OK in the rotary dumper OK when facing in one direction but not when on the on the track facing the other way.. This caused by the new mod as above not alllowing train to fully dock in the rotary dumper. Solution simple:- remove both axle pin connectors and the 4L axle. Train now docks OK and restrained by the two center arms on the black connector block. Now to sort out some other issues with the Train GBC layout with balls jamming in a loader unit. Added parts to stop gear from skipping Remove these parts from the rotary dumper. Train held in position by this Click image for video.

It is impossible to mesh a 24T gear at a right angle to a 12T double bevel gear. Bevel gears cannot mesh with spur gears at right angles - the result will be grinding & tooth damage. Spur gears with straight teeth are designed to mesh with other similar spur gears. Bevel gears can mesh with spur gears as long as both axles are parallel. ie. when you need a 1:2 ratio using 24T spur gear and a 12T DBGear Poor tooth contact and will skip & damage gear teeth. Bevel gears with 90 deg connection. Stronger tan gear support .


The thin 6L beam is causing a 1/2 L offset in order to give clearence for the 12T double gear gear meaning the 3L connector with centre hole is not fully inserted into the beam at that end. 12 Tan bevel gears are best supported as close to the gear as possible or mounted within a LEGO Black Technic Beam 3 with Axleholes on Ends and Fork (49137 / 87408)

Don,t like the new header or the new page spread out. Should be a train theme for the header, never seen a dragon on rail tracks !, Also text Is too small to read..

https://www.wikipedia.org

No problems using it as a differential axle, had a very good speed when on full throttle. Used a 60T turntable witha 12T bevel gear driven by an L motor.

With Flickr you can upload 1001 images & Videos for FREE, Its Easy to use and upload images to a forum post. See link to tutorial link provided by @Pdaitabird YouTube better for videos.

Your images need to be bigger so we can see details better.

Not far from where I live. There were many such railways in NE England, all now gone. There is a working museum at Springwell, Tyne and Wear where demonstrations are held on a short section of line that still exist. The remainder has been converted in to cross country cycle route and has some Very steep step climbs. Incline profile, showing why cable haulage using gravity & stationary engines was required. Its now a very challanging cycle route. Steepest section 1:15

Take a look at this cable hauled logging tramway. It would be a real challenge to replicate in Lego. https://www.maine.gov/dacf/parks/discover_history_explore_nature/history/allagash/tram.shtml

Thanks for spotting my error and putting the correct link in your post I got mine as Xmas gifts.

I have two books on Monorails of the 19th & 20th Centurys by Adrian S. Garner, which show many types of monorails including several suspended ones and some very weird & failed examples. The town where I live in NE England is twinned Wuppertal in Germany where the Wuppertal Schwebebahn still runs https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monorails-19th-Century-Adrian-Garner/dp/1899889574 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monorails-Early-Century-Adrian-Garner/dp/1911038125

Put Duracell into the search box and see all the past posts about the probem wiith Duracell batteries.

What make of batteries are you using. If Duracell they can cause problems.

Check the male contacts on the battery box, ease them out a bit using a needle tip

A simpler Heavy Duty Differential avoiding use of fragile 12t bevel gears - Original version used for my TC12 Boydell Stomper entry. Red #2 axle connectors kept in place with 4 x 2L axles - which can be extracted OK using a needle point. Improved Heavy Duty Differential version allowing for easy disassemble using knob gears. r

Thanks for that info. I'm slowly getting there. I may have accidentaly done that before but didn't undersatnd its purpose. Will start again, delete all data, re-calibrate and the record a set of movements once I get frsh batteries.

Finally some success :- Found how to record the movements made when using the controls and then save them . Then found I have to click & drag the “saved program block” down to the bottom of the screen and click the arrow to start it. Next improve driving skills !!

Thanks for your reply. I have been trying to program using the code blocks for each movement. Re Script movement, you do the movements first using the control panel or the alterantive control using the arm diagram and then you record what the movements you have just done, is that correct. Lego should have provided a more writen information. In any event I am stuck until I get fresh batteries.

My fears about this model have come true, an excellent build experience but let down by not enough information on how to program it. Would really appreciate if anyone could post a a suitable basic progarm. Attempts at setting up a program to run the excavator have now failed after many attempts at devising one, having depleted the batteries. Unlikely to be able to get new ones for awhile as shops closed during CV19 lock down. I have a big question: What is the correct starting point for the program and what position should the boom, dipper arm & bucket be in at the start of a program ? There should have been a return to home position icon. If there is one I can’t find. Really disappointed that Lego did not include a FULL sample program (not just two steps) to demonstrate the movements required for the whole dig & dump cycle. Model is destined to be either a static display, doubtful due lack of space to display it, convert it to PF or break it down for spare parts and maybe sell all the C+ hubs & motors.

I would suggest strip it down to individual parts and try re-building it.

They are expensive On Brickowl £9.00 to £11.49 from UK sellers. Holland £13.07 to £19,99 each Plus shipping Luckilly I have two already !!!