anothergol

I know, yet another AT-ST, but I've spent days detailing it, I think it's gonna be great, if ball joints don't deceive me. I wanted one with less "stairs effect" on the body, a sharp & flat one. Now... I designed it by google-imaging everything AT-ST-related, and I realized that everyone was very very loosely adapting it. Is there an official blueprint for the AT-ST's? (yes I know that even in the movies different models were used). At first I was into the details, but then realized that it wasn't that important if only a few geeks can recognize what's wrong. However, I'm after the exact metrics, and the few blueprints I found seem to have giant legs, while in the movie the legs look pretty short. Anyone? Edit: Final picture: (Flickr album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskooATiv)

it looks like it will take time to get used to, but it had to change anyway, BL was looking very poor compared to BrickOwl

yeah I eventually read that in the thread, any idea of which tire?

The black rubber(?) dome/cover thingy that covers the center here, anyone knows what it is? I've never seen this before. Thread here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57851&st=0

My very first, and for a trip back to '83, I bought a new one & opened it. And it was totally worth it.

To gather bricks, I would never bother with PaB because it's expensive for a way too limited choice. I don't even think that Lego will ever do this properly (but that would be great). To me it's all BrickLink, & possibly BrickOwl (much better interface, and useful "used state") if it ever grows as big as BL. Ebay.. too expensive.. except if you buy sets without the minifigs, maybe. But ask yourself how much you can use of a set, I know what I use and I know that many parts aren't of any use to me, so buying a set for 5c/part isn't necessarily better than buying only the parts that you need at 10 or 15c. My advice would be, if you buy a set, buy it for what it builds (or for the minifigs, for the collectors out there), not for the pieces. I'm sure that grabbing parts by the weight at flea markets can also be good & cheap, for the ones who are ready to waste their time washing crap. I know I wouldn't want to be the one who'd buy *my* own 30-years old collection full of teeth marks & germs. Buy new unless you don't have a choice (old molds), you will see that recycled parts are generally NOT cheaper than new ones, and strangely sometimes more expensive, even within the same shop. Never buy used printed parts, of course, unless the label states that it's in good shape. You definitely WILL get used parts that look like new, but that's totally random and you will end up throwing crap as well.

yeah, I've done that for a couple of creepy robots :)

I suggest google image search ("lego tiny mech"), you will see a lot of inspiration in there. There's a limit to what can be done, but it can be tiny & look great, yes. But you'll have to forget about normal plate/stud connections, to use clips mostly.

I recently made a small one, but I've seen much smaller ones, up to 1x or 1.5x a minifig, it all depends on the definition of "fitting". But I don't think that you can do a 1x scaled one without using lots of "illegal" techniques and/or sticking a minifig head on a mech making it look like it's holding it.

for those who are interested, I've just received the parts, and: -the old 1/3 + 2/3 assembly has NO friction/snap (well, still enough so it can't be used for things like propellers), and is pretty much the same as today's 1/3 + 1/3 assembly -today's 1/3 + 3/3 assembly DOES have friction/snap, no wobbliness in the rotation, very slight wobbliness vertically. But interestingly, it has no reason to be this thick, the snap is done by 2 extra bumps that could as well be in a 1/3 round plate. Most likely Lego wanted to avoid confusion, but I still think that 3/3 is too thick for something that's just a turntable. -there is no compatibility between old & new turntable bases/round plates

Can't help precisely, but googling for 4mm hoses, reveals that Lego itself probably wasn't producing them. Well if I was Lego, I'd order already existing generic hoses. The main problem is color, but I believe the ones in the space sets were black? I'm sure that they won't fit fine, BUT the original Lego ones -already- don't fit bars (which is why I believe they outsourced them, it's ridiculous how they have to be stretched over a bar, even though it's sturdy, it didn't have to be this narrow, even for pneumatic use IMHO).

Yeah, I've seen that (I use that part at the bottom of the tail btw), but I have no way to attach them this way, plus the hole wouldn't be at the right place I'm afraid :( Yeah I do own metalbeard, it indeed uses an axle on its waist. I'm also using an (well, 2) axle+stud to hold what's inside the thrusters btw, because passing a long axle through it all is way too wobbly & I found no better way to stabilize the rockets at the back of the thrusters. So I have to choose between fragile & wobbly apparently.

I use the motor that lego puts in choppers, to lift up minifigs, 61100c01. It's a friction motor with a twist, it's not made for cars. Of course, it will be 1-way, only to close the cockpit, as you wind up the motor by opening it. I've made some testing, it worked, but you never know, maybe the final weight will be too much, maybe things won't align & slide in properly.. Lego has only used it for lifting stuff, but it's definitely usable for doors in general. The trick is to pre-wind up the motor *a little* before assembling it, so that it will go back to fully close the thing. Without that, it may stop a little before, because it's snapped.

I'm noticing this year's redesigned tile+clip 15712, was it there before? (maybe I just hadn't noticed it)

Totally! I still have mine from the 80's (in a very bad shape), and yeah this is supposed to be the "replacement" version and I plan to make pics of them together, on a good old lunar baseplate.

It's for this ship, so yeah it'd have to be sturdy enough I'm afraid. The reason I need them flat enough is that I have no room in the body to hold them, there's a light brick and an engine as the cockpit will be motorized (chances are that it's gonna go very wrong). It works well as is, but it would be a pity not to have those boosters rotatable. But it looks better with them closer to the body.

quite possibly. When I bricklink, I usually buy "rare" parts, so that I can reduce the # of shops I will need for my next MOC. So if you don't have an inventory yet, you will probably have to do several shops, and the shipping costs will add up. Also you used a lot of bionicle parts (edit: not that many actually), those come & go in specific colors, and the "masks" are usually expensive (ball joints are cheap). But the most annoying is that the LDD doesn't represent the reality at all, when it comes to colors and sometimes molds. A LOT of pieces simply don't exist in the colors that are in the LDD (opposite is true as well), that's why I suggested you start with the head, to get an idea. A good example, the 6152 white windshield part that you used on the legs, be aware that the mold in the LDD is wrong, it has 4 more stud holes underneath. It does exist and is very rare without those studs, but only in trans clear blue. In short, the price isn't the real problem, you will have to be ready to adapt things.

Hi, I need the most compact (flat, thus no Technics) turntable with friction, and I don't really know what my choices are, as I've never met a 4x4 turntable with friction and/or snap. I do own a 61485 plate, but when you put a 4x4 round plate on it, there is no friction. I see about the 3403c01, which may be an old piece, but seems to exist in more colors, including the one I'd need (blue). Does this one have friction, and is it snapped? And is the round piece a 3/3 brick, or a 2/3 one? According to the digital designer, it would be 2/3, making the whole assembly 3/3. 61485c02 seems to be the way the 61485 is to be used for friction/snap(?), but then the round piece is a 3/3 brick. ..and it's already replaced by 87081c01? Too many choices. So there would be no recent turntable with friction/snap that all fits in 3/3? Thanks Edit: I'm starting to understand that round brick 87081 has those ticks that help snapping with the turntable base, so I assume that the base + the round brick end up as a 4/3 snapping turntable. Question is, does the old 3403c01 snap too? Comes in more colors, and it's a bit more compact.

very interesting cloud

I would say that, in europe, Brickinling stuff may cost around 15cents/part as a rough average. And it's really an average, there are 2eur parts just like there are 1 cent parts, sometimes for the same part in just a different color. But it's just an average that I've noticed from my own orders, generally new parts (don't buy used unless you have the choice, it's generally not cheaper anyway, but it's too often crap/dirty). Shipping costs also add up, you'd probably need up to 5 different shops for this big model.

yes it leaves holes, but you can also more simply change the straight angles for round plates, & leave the bottom as is. I don't understand why Lego went for angled corners like that. (well yes I understand, it's because round plates have a pin hole in the middle, not an axle hole, so they went for whatever allowed them to use a 2x2 with technic hole inside. But it's because they had to made it kid-proof, while using plates still leaves room for enough consolidation for an adult)

Thanks I used nothing, it's just a typo in my thread's title, not a mod at all. I have another spaceship MOC that's much longer, will post pictures soon.

I like this tool, it's lighting fast. Would be nice to use it for what would be impossible with other renderers: animation. A simple option to make a 360 rotation anim around X axis. That would take a lifetime in POVRay. Aside from the wrong transparency (very opaque & dark, this is supposed to be trans neon green), it's good.

but the same applies to the brick version(?)

I must admit the log brick is the one thing I stole from someone's MOC, I can't find it back but I once saw a big Technics sportscar with 2 of them used as exhaust pipes.