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anothergol

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Everything posted by anothergol

  1. anothergol
    yeah, I quickly tried to clip them to the sides, & attach the little gearwheels to them using a bar+clip (thus, fully replacing the LBG paint rollers). But as I wrote, I'd rather stay away from those metallic colors.
  2. anothergol
    No because those clips are offset too much, which is my main problem. I need that bar tightly where the gap is, there is no part that works like this (except 3839, but it has bars on both sides). But I'm sure it will be no problem, when you disassemble those bars they stay into shape. The real question is whether it will look better, it may cast more shadow & not look better at all.
  3. anothergol
    I would overbend them, so they would be stopped by the plates. They will bend back over time, but I've never seen these bend back fully straight. I've even had used soft axles inside pin holes for a year, hoping that would get them back straight, they seem to be bent forever.
  4. anothergol
    Yes, I've considered both. 2508 is way too long, 4596 is a bit long but still ok, only you have to cover those studs & add bulk. That's why the crutch part should be a better fit.
  5. anothergol
    Thanks Btw, seeing how LiLmeFromDaFuture's MOC has a nice flat roof, I was wondering if I couldn't remove the bevel (the "real" one has a bevel, but not this big) at the top. And actually, it's doable, since I have 1 plate of safety between the minifigs & the roof (it was there so that a Chewbacca could fit as well). It requires changes I'm not happy with, so I'm not gonna continue it, but here's the LXF for those who wanna test. It's sad that the numeric entry for the ball joints is so buggy in the LDD, because I can't rotate the side plates the way they do in real life, and it makes precision edits/collision checks difficult. http://www.fiastarta...atRoofTest2.lxf Edit: oh wait, I didn't know there were long enough flex tubes in LBG. This might fill the gap nicely.
  6. anothergol
    Is it me or the model for part 92692 (the 3-fingers clip) is wrong? The angle of the fingers seems wrong.
  7. anothergol
    I've just made proper pics of v2.2. I've reworked the roof (allowed myself cutting 2L tubes, I don't know if Lego ever did this, but I've sometimes seen 2L cuts in BrickLink), so that I can finally have the full grille at the top-back. And the tile-in-clips eyelids look nice. https://flic.kr/s/aHskFgViFx
  8. anothergol
    These, from the collector minifigs. They're in that nasty metallic icecream color, but it has the right size for the body's sides (to which the little wheels are attached)
  9. anothergol
    Btw I haven't used them (because of the color), but this years's crutches parts are interesting for the sides of the body.
  10. anothergol
    what's the problem with it?
  11. anothergol
    From what I read, tiles in clips have (supposedly) never been illegal, only avoided because less easy to clip. Hard to see if there's a stress, or how much you can pivot them. Supposedly it's only for tiles, because of the grooves, but I'd say it's just a happy coincidence. They started doing it in the Helicarrier, but I've just had to pin a tile into clips in the Brick Bank that I'm assembling. A printed one on top of it.
  12. anothergol
    I've just noticed the same on that cauldron piece, which I was so hoping to use as a spaceship thruster. *Sadly*, it has absolutely zero inner clutch power, meaning that you can't clip it to anything that's not at least 2x4. Too bad Lego didn't fix this.
  13. anothergol
    I think the Lego movie's cops -are- Space Police anyway. And IMHO this set was one of Lego's best sets, inspired by Space Police & Blade Runner:
  14. anothergol
    I think the reason I discared them is that they were a bit too long - and it works for you because your clips are a little more recessed. However, I've just tried 2x2 tiles into clips (some MOCs have done them this way), the end result is slightly shorter and works well for me. I normally don't like tiles into clips, but recently Lego itself has done it in several sets, so I guess it's now legal.
  15. anothergol
    For those who wanna change their build to the flatter front version, I've finalized the LXF: http://www.fiastarta...T/AT-ST_2_2.lxf Notes: -due to the differences in side plate placement in "real", the DBG 2x3 wedges+1x1 round plate on each side at the front, can be replaced by a 2x4 wedge. -the eyelids are using 2x2 wedges in LBG, which don't exist yet. I'm not even sure they look better, but they will have the advantage of closing pretty perfectly! -no more opening front, but it's now much easier to remove the cover (only 1 stud), and you can then see the interior *with* the front -there are other unrelated changes in some places, sometimes using parts in colors that don't exist (hopefully) yet. La Chupacabra suggested using 30602's as leg shields, that seems to work well (only there's no more place covering the joint)
  16. anothergol
    Looking pretty nice. I'm only bugged by the gaps between the sides & the top, in the back. Mixel joints on those little leg bars, I'm afraid that has no chance to hold (since large ball joints [before the high-friction extender] didn't either), but you can still use "blocker" axles somewhere. I wanted to avoid flags as eyelids on mine, but it actually looks nice - maybe I'll change mine (especially since I own 2 trapezoidal ones in LBG)
  17. anothergol
    I'd expect less curling *with* the center post, no? Because that post pushes the studs appart on the opposite directions(?) In any case, that part is missing some solidity structure underneath.. or not: Yeah the cuts in the side flanges seem to be the cause, *however* you will see that Lego predicted this and added 2 rows of bars joining the posts. Either they predicted wrong and it would need the third row to have those bars, or there is really a precision/molding problem, because those bars aren't doing their job. Also interestingly, that part's old version (2413) doesn't have the side cuts - I'm gonna try that one.
  18. anothergol
    It's the second time I have to deal with this nasty wing part that keeps bending up, trying to flatten it in hot water, etc. But now I've found out why it's bending. The studs are probably slightly too far appart or something, or there isn't enough plastic to make it solid. But in any case, if you place tiles like on the left over this part, it's gonna bend upwards. While if you do it like on the right, no problem.
  19. anothergol
    the movie?
  20. anothergol
    Those exhausts are now available on B&P. But at such a crazy price that I'll wait for them to appear on BL. Not the most useful color anyway.
  21. anothergol
    If you browse today's batch, you will see that most projects have the exacy same comment: "So beautiful! Supported no 2 and following. Good luck!" (like, these 2 *cough* gems) https://ideas.lego.com/projects/148110 (<- this one I'm speechless. Where could all those terribad projects with detailed descriptions & proper grammar come from?) https://ideas.lego.com/projects/148454
  22. anothergol
    Related, this "idea" which is getting many votes: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/147876 My problem with is isn't the quality at all (well, it's a minifig pack, it can't go that wrong and it's well-presented enough), but that it's typical anti-feminism nonsense. First, because the message goes against the idea of anti-feminism. "Hey look, girls can do stuff TOO"... Second, imagine how a "men of NASA" project would be welcome by that same woman (checking her Flickr, strong anti-feminism propaganda there). But I don't know, maybe it's just a project surfing on politically-correctness & the success of Research Institute. I can well imagine Lego's interest in getting girls to play with Lego. Other than that..
  23. anothergol
    I was only talking about those 3 ugly sets. I don't know more about Chima & I've bought some (bird) minifig heads from the theme, as I find them well made. It's just those 3 particular sets that, unlike most Lego sets, are also useless part-wise, regardless of the theme.
  24. anothergol
    quite nice vegetation texturing
  25. anothergol
    There's a risk of breaking the joint piece, though. Also you will have more troubles balancing it "naturally". But it may help balancing it more towards the front, like the "real" one. About balancing btw, it would have been possible to add fake weight in the back, using random metal Lego parts. Problem is that there's already quite a lot of weight on the 2 32016 joints of the legs, quite some weight on very little plastic (because of the hole in that joint).
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