ecmo47

Here is the first and biggest one. Once I put mine spine and engine block together, there was one plate of gap between the two. I fill it in as per below. This is a good thing as it helps tie the bottom row of upside-down 1x4 w/studs on the side in much better. CR-90 Engine block V2.5 by Scott Roys, on Flickr I also replaced the brick that holds the 1x2 grill on with a technic 1x2 brick w/two holes (green arrow). This will prevent the grill piece from twisting out of alignment which it does very easily. Finish off the front of the block like this: CR-90 Engine block V2.6 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Additions pieces needed: 2x#3035: 4x8 white plate 2x#3021: 2x3 white plate 1x#4477: 1x10 white plate 4#32000: 1x2 Technic brick w/ 2 holes 8#4274: White Technic 1/2 pin 4#3622: White 1x3 brick

The end is near! DSC02006 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Need to build the stand, wait on a few last minute parts and do some general tweaking but it's looking good! Did uncover one error and re-designed one small area in the course of building and will get those detailed soon.

Thanks for the tip but remember that I'm the guy that couldn't find a the 4th plate on the engines! What size of plates are you talking about? 1x2's? Is what is in the picture close? It doesn't work but seems close to your description. DSC02004 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

GLUE?! Blasphemy! I'm going to investigate using a #3937/3938 combo attached to the middle of the plate. That way, neither end can pivot.

Making some progress! Some parts orders came in so I was able to rebuild the engine block per my revised LDD file. Very please with the results. It's a logical build and very solid. I tweaked the file this morning based on the build. It had one misplaced part and I remove four 1x2 plates so that the two outer bottom panels would seat a little better. I also covered up some exposed studs with 1x1 tiles. Question for the crowd. My 4 bottom panels refuse to stay up and will sag down right away. The plate hinges do not provide enough friction to keep them in place. CR-90 Engine block panel problem by Scott Roys, on Flickr Any suggestions on how to keep it up?

I'm not sure how you would be able to tell the difference between the 2 from Mortesv's photo's. Thanks for pointing that out. I'll change my LDD and parts list so it's correct for anybody else. I'm staying with the ones I got and call it an upgrade. Mine will be a CR-90a and will go faster then yours due to increased engine length. Boo-ya! As for fighter squadrons, Blue x-wing squadron would be a good start. We discussed this in one of Mortesv's threads. I'd like to create some TIE Strikers to harass our mighty fleet.

Must be blind this morning as I'm still not seeing the extra plate. Per the picture below you have three plates at the front (red arrow) and 4 at the back (blue arrow) just like EKae's design. Mort's engines plate discussion by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Huh? I just went back and looked at your photo's and they look like they're the same length to me. What is the difference?

@sandtrooper. Personal preference will dictate how many are used. I ended up replacing 24 of the #60474 round plates with eight #87081 (4x4 round bricks w/o holes). Per the red arrows, I replaced the ones in the front of the engines where they had some greebling to cover them. You could replace another 24 plates on the back side of the engines (green arrow) if you wanted to but that would change your ability to include 2 plates worth of dark red on the two of the outside engines. Also, I like the way the stud cutouts on the plates added interesting detail to the rear of the engine. CR-90 engines v3.1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Lot's of changes on the inside and a few differences on the outside of my mod. Lots of effort to remove those strap hinges and I already had them! But my mods closed up the gap very nicely. On your fleet, you needs varying heights like you had with the plastic shelves.

Progress! Of sorts. I am done redoing the fuselage in LDD. I've run through the building instructions twice and there are no glaring errors. The next step is to cross-reference the parts list and see what additional items I need to round up before finally working on actually building it. Groan! Fuselage V2.3 by Scott Roys, on Flickr The colored parts represent items not found in LDD. 1. Purple tiles = #25269 White 1x1 1/4 round tile (need 4) 2. Green = #24299 White Wedge plate 2x2 Left (need 4) 3. Yellow #24307 White Wedge plate 2x2 Right (need 4)

My guess is that the new project might be just part of a ship. Perhaps a 1/250 ( the "to scale" part) bottom fin of the Profundity?

EKae: as per above, my fuselage LDD is a huge mess right now. Hopefully these pictures will help. I'll send you the file and you can dissect the head yourself. (That sounds a little creepy!) CR-90 head 2.1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr CR-90 head 2.2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr CR-90 head 2.3 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

I've run into a dilemma that may cause me to go back and redesign the spine as the current 4x4 structure is too big. I am working on incorporating Brickmarlins fuselage midsection design to eliminate all the 1x2 strap hinges and noticed a difference between Mortesv's version and EKae's. You can see in the photo below that on Mortesv's model (and Brickmarlin) the wings are only 5 studs wide each. Mortesv's Hull midsection by Scott Roys, on Flickr On EKae's version they are 5 studs but the hinge gap creates another stud of width to that area. (orange arrows) Fuselage V2.2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr The only way to take out the needed space (about 2 plates on each side) would be to redo the spine much like ScottishDave did as detailed back on page 6. I'm sure that this is way that Bricksmarlin did it. The photo below proves that his spine is thinner than 4x4. Bricksmarlin Hull midsection v2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr So what to do? Option 1: Live with a six stud (per side) fuselage mid-section that is not true to Mortesv model and therefore not quite technically accurate per his scaling from the studio model. This is the easy option and visually, the average joe could not tell the difference. Option 2: Re-design the entire fuselage to maintain said accuracy. I guess the answer boils down to how much of a Star Wars purist am I?

Actually 3675 does not exist in Dark grey or DBG as an official color. I'd be very suspicious of those parts. On bricklink, there is just one guy in Germany that has 6 DBG at .81 cents apiece. Not over priced so grab them quick! If you want some Sand green ones, I've got a big bag full from my last Lugbulk order. 3675 color chart by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Your still missing a 4L bar! (red circle area) EKae's engine block by Scott Roys, on Flickr Green arrow. You do not needs these 2x2 plates in the build. LDD will not let you connect the 1x2/2x1 bracket to the side of the engine but in real life they will fit just fine. That's why they were not on the file I sent you.

Thanks for the tutorial! I'll have to look into that and see if it will save me any time. Got some LDD work done on the fuselage today. Cockpit is adjusted, airlocks moved forward one stud and the sloped area between the cockpit and gun emplacement is updated. Next adjustment is the spine which will have to have one stud of length taken out (red arrow) and stability issues fixed and then on to the mid-section. Placed an order today for extra parts needed for the engine block so that will be delayed a few days. Fuselage V2.1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

That does sound like it would make life easier. I've not used Rebrickable in a long time so I'd need to re-learn how to use the site starting with how do you create an .LXF file?

2 steps forward and 1 back tonight. I've completed my revamping of the engine section and the engine block section. The LDD's for each look good and I have separate parts lists for each. The parts list have been review for Bricklink compatibility. As you know the LDD generated BOM always has issue numbering parts especially if there is a letter attached (3069b). I took apart my engine block tonight to re-inventory my parts and see what extra I need to round up. I got as far as comparing my two lists. So next up is rebuilding the engine block, while modifying the fuselage LDD to include fixes to the cockpit, moving the docking tube 1 stud forward, and incorporating Bricksmarlins fuselage changes to cut down on those hard to find strap hinges. (Have I said all this before? Been answering several PM's and I get confused!)

Here's a simple fix for the upside-down floating bricks problem. Add two 1x3 bricks as shown by the green arrow. Engine block V2.4 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Then tie the sloped bricks together with the tiles as shown. The 2x4 tile (orange arrow) will lock the bottom row of sloped bricks in place which, in turn, carry the upside-down studs-on-sides bricks (blue arrow) which hold the stud-jumpers and cheese wedges on the bottom.

I think so! I just revamp the engine block section and added a one stud layer to the front where the black arrow is. That will push the docking tubes/radar tower 1 stud forward leaving 7 studs for fins. Engine block V2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr I didn't like how the 2 middle panels set on top of the cheese wedges in your design so I got to looking at Mortesv's design. On his model, the cheese wedges were in front of the sloped panel so it seated down further. I thought about shortening those 2 panels to 8 studs but glad I figured out a solution more like Morts' model. To make it happen I took off all your 1x2/2x2 brackets and tied in a bunch of bricks for studs on the sides. Looks like this: Engine block V2.1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr I haven't built it yet so, while it looks good on LDD, you never know how good the design is until you do! I think there will be a problem with the bottom row of bricks which are flipped upside-down in my (our!) current design. I also filled in some of the area under the slopped parts: Engine block V2.2 by Scott Roys, on Flickr As you can see, I have divided the model into three parts, engines, engine block and fuselage. This really streamlines the build and doesn't make your poor computer crash sorting out all the steps! I've got the engine file done and am near complete on the engine block. Fuselage is next and I hope to incorporate Bricksmarlins design to cut down on the 1x2 plate hinges. This is lots of fun for me and I hope your not insulted that I'm making so many changes to your excellent re-creation. I think they will be for the better once done.

That would be this boarding ramp from page 57 of The Star Wars Sketch Book. You can actually see the lower fin in this drawing that has been cut into. CR90 Boarding ramp by Scott Roys, on Flickr As far as updating EKae's LDD, I'd be happy too. It's going to take a few weeks though so I hope you all can wait a bit. Depending on what EKae wants to do, I'd be happy to let him distribute the updated versions so there is still a single point of contact. That is until Mortesv/CJD223 releases their version! By the way, I did get the cockpit fixed last night. It's wasn't too hard with the way you had it constructed. I'll post some builders photos of the changes tonight.

Last update for the night. I figured out how Mortesv accomplished that sloped area between the top gun turret and the cockpit. Remove the bricks with studs on the sides to create this open area: DSC01992 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Make the sloped top fin to look like like this: DSC01994 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Looks like this when installed: DSC01997 by Scott Roys, on Flickr I spent a bit of the afternoon re-working the top turret. Not sure it's better but I liked the curved back I achieved. I completed the cockpit per the LDD instructions. It's got some issues! The Dark-red round 4x4 plates are 1 plate too high. Also, the whole cockpit is about 2 plates too high. You look at any picture, Mortesv's included, and you will see that the horizontal center of the cockpit lines up with the center of the fuselage. You can see below that it clearly does not. DSC02001 by Scott Roys, on Flickr No solution yet but I'm working on it.

....and we have all be dying to see your plans!!! But would your internal frame be able to double as the Mighty Mallet of Mjolnir? DSC01989 by Scott Roys, on Flickr

Progress on the fuselage has been slow mostly due to the way LDD sequences the build. The problem is that it never finishes the center core of construction which means that nothing is stable. After struggling through the first 100 steps and crushing various sub-assemblies, I gave up and hide every piece until I was down to the central core of the model. Once there, I fixed several bothersome issues that strengthened the overall structure and will make it much easier to complete the overall build. Here is the central core. The first thing to fix is a missing 1x4 technic brick. I took out the 1x8 technic brick (highlighted in green) and replaced it with a 1x12. Fuselage fix 1 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Next, I removed the pieces highlighted in yellow.... Fuselage fix 4 by Scott Roys, on Flickr and replaced them with a 1x12 and 1x4 technic brick as shown in green. Fuselage fix 5 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Next, I removed the 2x plates shown here in Reddish brown..... Fuselage fix 6 by Scott Roys, on Flickr and replaced them with the parts shown in green. Fuselage fix 7 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Next I removed the 2x plates shown here in red..... Fuselage fix 8 by Scott Roys, on Flickr and replaced them with four 4x8 plates shown here in green. Fuselage fix 9 by Scott Roys, on Flickr Lastly, add two 2x8 plates (shown in red) to bridge the gap between the 2x and the 4x plates. You could fill in the entire gap but that would be over-kill. Fuselage fix 10 by Scott Roys, on Flickr The 4x plates secure the 1x4 (with 4 studs on side) bricks that I had problems with during the initial LDD construction phase. They don't move now! I used LBG and DGB for any replacement parts shown in color here. None are seen so you could use any color you have in the parts bin.