ecmo47

Wow! Love the detail! Now I need to go dust off my 20 year-old copy of the Walthers catalog and look for other cool structures to model in Lego. The old Durango Press "Perkins Produce" was an intertesting building. Any chance you have LDD files to share?

Thanks for the video. It explained the method very well! I wonder if you could achieve the same effect by using one flex track segment in between each straight track? That would keep all the joints tight if that was an issue. I've been thinking about making my track base the same as your by raising it up one plate width. I just need to find somebody that has several thousand! More questions: - How is the articulated engine powered? Looks like it's pulling a 10+ car train which is quite a feat for PF! - Any LDD instructions for that engine? I'd love to build one. I just found your Flicker page and drooled over more photos of your layout. Duck pond? Neat! Garden? Fantastic (especially with Shakespeare and Thor rehearsing a scene). I think the detail that really makes the layout standout is the abundance of trees. Any advice on how to make big, sturdy ones? Anyway, nice job! Lots of inspiring details.

Wow!! Love the overall presentation. Did you use just Lego brand track? How did you acheive the wide, sweeping curve?

I have 2 Emerald Night engines that are powered. Each will pull a 10 car train which is way more than a powered Maersk engine can do. I cant really understand why your having a problem as mine work great without added weight. But here are some suggestions. 1. Make sure your track is on a flat table or hard floor. I can see that you may have problems if your track is on carpet that would may make the track uneven. 2. Something is wrong with the construction of your engine. As stated above, perhaps your leading and trailing trucks are (for some reason) lower than the drivers. Try running your engine without than and see what happens. If it runs good, than that will help pinpoint a problem. I regeared the drivers as I had problems with the driver rods binding. Here is a thead that I wrote on it over at another website. http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/15407/emerald-night-10194-running-gear-improvements#latest Let me know with you have any questions. Also, post some pictures of your engine and perhaps we can spot a problem. One more thing. Make sure that your drivers and not pushed tightly against the frame. This will would not really cause the wheels to slip but will certainly inhibit pulling power.

"Hi ecmo47, these designs have been reverse engineered and instructions created by someone else with my permission. I don't sell the instructions or have any responsibility of advertising them. I only ever freebuild. I'm sure they'll fit into a 1930's-1950's layout. I really love that era for design and style." Cheers You picked the right guy for the partnership. The instructions and parts lists are excellent. Even included the files to load the lists onto Bricklink. Definitely worthy of your excellent designs.

Target in the USA is selling the set for 42.00 in Black Friday if you want the whole thing.

Found your instructions for the vehicles on eBay this morning and ordered immediately! Cant wait to get started. I would suggest that you add the word "modular" to get a little more exposure.

Wow! You captured the Victorian feel very nicely! Love the cobble stone pathway! Also, I pursed your other links and I must say that your eye for detail and ability to translate that into Lego is without equal. Question, are LDD instruction available for any of those excellent vintage vehicles? I'm building a 1930's-1950's layout and those would be a great additions. Thanks!

Very cute! (Can I say that?) ;-0

^ Nice set-up but I hope you are not prone to motion sickness! That video made me woozie especially the side camera shots. Here's a thread over at Brickset that has pictures of a couple trains based on the 79111. http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/comment/280029#Comment_280029

DSC00939 by ecmo47, on Flickr What Dr Spock was referring to is the wheel sets on the Horizon locomotive. The rear one is made up of the Lego premade wheel (truck) sets. The front one has two 1x8 technic beams with the wheels on an axles that run thought the holes in the technic beam. This set up has much more friction then the rear set. The reason for the different styles is that the front one is meant to be taken about and the parts used with the power function motor.

DSC00935 by ecmo47, on Flickr Try again! DSC00936 by ecmo47, on Flickr DSC00936 by ecmo47, on Flickr DSC00938 by ecmo47, on Flickr Thanks for the picture posting tips! I think I've got it figured out now.

<iframe src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/128506921@N06/15785355742/player/feb367d7c1" height="600" width="800" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen oallowfullscreen msallowfullscreen></iframe> Fail!

Now your all starting to make me nervous! Right now it's just me and my wife for some of the time. Prehaps I could press my 18-year-old son into service part of the time. (He was a huge Bionicle fan back in the day and a very creative builder). Sounds like having a barracade is a "must" so that it is easier to mingle with the audiance. I thought I'd be hanging out in the middle but I can see how that would be restrictive. https://www.flickr.com/photos/128506921@N06/sets/72157649272084202/ Since I haven't figure out how to make pictures small enough to post here, I put some progress pictures on my newly-created Flicker account. I see that I'm violating some of your guidance already! (Track near the edge) My trial set-up is the two 12x3 tables put togther the long way. My room isnt big enough to add the two smaller extensions to create the full 9x12. Citizen: How exactly do you tie 2 regulators together? Just so that we are clear, is a regulator the same as a transformer? Another question: Do you lubricate your train wheels or points of friction? I powered up the Horizon tonight and in grinds and squeaks like crazy! I was thinking of using some graphite to help out.

Planned on doing just that! One of the things Im going to do is have a "Monkey Invasion" which is homage to the shop layout at the famous Caboose Hobbies in Denver, Colorado. Everytime I place a Bricklink order, I always check to see if that seller has a few (#6299). Probably have a few superheros hanging out too.

Thanks very much for your thoughtful replies! Currently, I have 2 powered EN's, 2 powered Maersk engines, and 1 powered HE which I plan to swap out to keep something running. I currently have 2 rechargeable Batteries and plenty of AA battery holders boxes so that isn’t a problem. I will only have one PF loop so I am well covered there. On the 9 volt loop, I will need to do some wiring which Im not very good at. When I set up the a test loop, the train got very slow at the point furthest away from point of power. I will be fasten a 12 inch Plexiglas barrier all the way around the edge so that little hands cannot pull trains off the track and onto the floor. I'm still contemplating an additional barrier and am looking into PVC furniture parts as an option. Ill try to get some progress pictures up soon.

Im building a Lego train layout that I will display at a local train show in late February. The layout will be 9x12 feet with a 3x8 center hole where I intended to running things from. Viewers will be able to view from all 4 sides. One 3x12 side will be a city street which is made up of many Modular sets. The other 3x12 side will be a rail yard to stage and park trains. It will have a few buildings depending on what I get built! There will be two 2x3 wings to complete the loop. The outer loop will be PF trains to include EN passenger train, Maersk freight and Horizon Express. Hopefully, I will also have a 9v loop but I haven’t done much work on that part yet. I'll post some progress pictures as soon as I figure out how! Anyway, I'm looking for any advice on what to expect at the 2-day show. How much of a barrier should I construct? Will a short plexi-glass wall around the edge be sufficient or should I have a rope barrier 2-3 feet away? Will people swipe the minifigs if they can reach them? How do PF trains hold up to long term running? Should I have more than one person keeping an eye on things? Should I run a raffle for a #60052 set? If you have any experience with shows, please let me know what to expect. Thanks!

Hi ya'll! Long time Lego fan here. I've been a member over at Brickset for quite a while but never got around to visiting this site very much. I was a Lego fan back in the 70's when I was a kid which started with a large box of Samsonite pieces I got for my birthday. One of my all time favorite sets is #730 steam shovel with carrier which I received for Christmas of 1976. Currently, Im working on a train layout which will be displayed at a local train show. Ive created a few things on LDD to include an Emerald Night baggage car, EN Observation car and a Water Tower which I entered into the Railbricks contest. Anyway good to be here and I look forward to being part of the EB community.

Very nice operating layout!

I like the idea of a Shay or a Heisler (fully geared of course!) but an outside frame steam engine like a D&RGW K-27 would be awesome!

So that is where all the blue 1x3 tiles and 2x3 plates went off Bricklink! Supurb model!

http://www.bricksetforum.com/discussion/15407/emerald-night-10194-running-gear-improvements Here is what I did with mine. Hope this helps.