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MajorAlvega

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Everything posted by MajorAlvega

  1. MajorAlvega
    You can also use high current diodes like the 6A10 (6 Ampere). The SBrick max voltage is 11.8 V but Vengit recommends a safe voltage of 10.8 V. A 3S LiPo will be ~11.1 V but when full charged can be a little more so I would use at least one diode ( I used a non-fully charged 3S LiCoO2 battery, 11.1V/1300 mAh, directly without any problems, reached 7.35 A).Don't do this with PF IR remote, I don't think it can hold 11 V. Add more diodes or use just a 2S battery. Any battery used in RC cars/planes can be used if it has internal protection (usually they have). A small 1300 mAh 20C battery can deliver 20x1300 = 26A so be VERY carefull. And even with a SBrick be carefull, 7A for more a few seconds WILL melt the plugs - I know, I did it :) The minimum voltage for SBrick is around 5 V. I've used it with 4.5 V but the Bluetooth connection dropped when spinning a motor. A good/stable 5.0V will be enough for small motors, 6V will be better for higher loads.
  2. MajorAlvega
    My two LEGO balls are still shiny but I have other two ex-mouse balls (same size, perhaps not quite the same grade of steel) that became dark. Try mild vinegar or a baking soda past and a soft tooth brush.
  3. MajorAlvega
    You are absolutely right. I started using it because I use Ubuntu on my laptop and Raspbian on my Raspberry Pi - all 3 are Debian based so very simillar at the command line and with a HUGE universe of software. There's also another good reason: if you have some kind of USB device that works with Linux, you have very good chances to use it with EV3 when running ev3dev. Like: - bluetooth 4.0 - webcam - Relay adapter - 1-wire adapter - stereo sound card - TFT color display ... and much much more
  4. MajorAlvega
    Strongly agree with previous answer. EV3 «native» software is good to learn concepts - both robotics and programming - but you don't quite learn a programming language. For young kids, thats actually good as it might prevent bad coding habits. I have a 7 yr kid, I think he is not ready for EV3 programming yet. But he uses it once in a while since I got my first one, 3 years ago so he is now familiar with motors and sensors and basic algorithms. I expect to introduce him to visual programming with Snap! or Scratch (beacuse I also use LEGO WeDo and Raspberry Pi) and then the LEGO software. You can use 3rd party software with the EV3 so perhaps after a while your 10 yr kid (and/or you) might try some advanced options. Microsoft has a Robotics option for Visual Studio compatible with EV3, was free 2 years ago. RobotC is also quite strong and there are also quite strong open source projects like LejOS (Java based) and ev3dev (linux for the EV3 with several languages like Python, C, Lua...) It's good to have extra Technic parts as you do. There are lots of examples in the Net with just the default motors/sensors, having extra bricks helps to extend/customize them.
  5. MajorAlvega
    I don't think you need smaller wheels for the caster wheel, just try to assemble it in a different way, link it to the bot's frame farther from the floor. Or you may use larger wheels for the EV3 servo motors.
  6. MajorAlvega
    Yes. If you're concearned with scratching the floor, put some adesive tape on the bottom surface. These 3 micro-rovers are using «boat studs», the floor is plain stone:
  7. MajorAlvega
    If you use your robot always in that kind of floor, you may try to remove the caster wheel, I think the 2 liftarms ends are enough. For very small robots I some times use just a "boat stud" touching the floor.
  8. MajorAlvega
    We are going off topic but... The way LEGO built the EV3 allows us to run other firmware versions without modifying the original one. I download an ev3dev image file (like a CD ISO), put it in a 8 GB micro-SD card and power up the EV3 with it in. You can read more at ev3dev.org site.
  9. MajorAlvega
    The Mindsensors camera can connect to the NXT and the EV3. And most modern USB webcams can connect to the EV3 but you need to use a custom operating system (like ev3dev) to recognize and use them.
  10. MajorAlvega
    It is an operating system, like Windows and OSX are. If you neaver heard of it but really want to learn perhaps the best way is getting yourself a Raspberry Pi microcomputer ( ~US$ 40) and learn by using it with Raspbian, that's the linux «flavour» most people use with the Pi. Ubuntu is also a very popular linux distribution, you can download it and try it on your computer.
  11. MajorAlvega
    Some people (includind myself) have been using USB cameras with EV3 running ev3dev (a linux distro for EV3). Most recent Logitech / Microsoft cameras work. Even old LEGO USB camera work (although almost useless). If you are familiar with linux, see this interesting and well documented project: First-person view and remote control with LEGO Mindstorms EV3.
  12. MajorAlvega
    Very good!
  13. MajorAlvega
    If you just want to turn the trains ON with the standard transformer preset to a certain speed you just need some kind of remote controlled power plug. I'm from Europe so I'm not familliar with the options you might have in USA. I got myself a Belkin WeMo Switch, it's WiFi controlled and it is supported by OpenHAB so it would work - you just plug it to the main power plug and connect all you AC/DC adaptors to it (the trains 9V standard transformers and the Lifelites power adaptors) then you control from your laptop running OpenHAB when/how to turn everything ON, perhaps also using your iPhone as a remote. I never used OpenHAB myself yet. I have a Raspberry Pi and a LEGO Mindstorms EV3 and bought the WeMo to try controlling things like the coffee machine from them but had not time yet. With the Mindstorms I wantto to use just plain python scripts (I run Linux ev3deve on it) but as you probably don't want to do all the coding yourself I suggested OpenHAB because it runs in several different systems, has a community to support you and it also supports several devices. But there are other home automation systems, perhaps you find a power plug switch with another good program that also supports your Philips Hue bridge. Post your progress here. I'm very interested in your setup, my LUG is preparing an event in June and we might get new ideas for the Trains and for the City.
  14. MajorAlvega
    Hi. Can you give more details about your setup? You're using Philips Hue System lamps, you want to control the lamps from a computer via a wifi connection to the Hue bridge or directly from a Zigbee connection? I'm assuming you want to use a computer, maybe a laptop, to control everything. You're using Lifelites, how do you power those? eLite MCU or just a AC/DC adaptor to power them all? How do you control it? A relay with wifi connection? You're using LEGO Trains. 9V or Power Functions? How do you control them all? There are several Home Automation programs. OpenHAB is open source and can run on Windows/Mac/Linux, also on Raspberry Pi and has support for Philips Hue Bridge.
  15. MajorAlvega
    Yes, same drifting problem here. Had to put magnets in two different positions of the car to prevent it spinning around itself or «baseplateplanning» at turns. I was planning doing a kartodrome pretty much the same way you did in the video you posted but I'm lacking road baseplates.
  16. MajorAlvega
    That's very good. Could you run it faster (the car)?
  17. MajorAlvega
    Yes, I know magnetism isn't new at eurobricks. But I think my proof of concept has something new: it is remote controlled - you can control the speed of the car, like with Scalextric cars. So if you build two train tracks under the baseplates and use two train motors you can make a real car race, like in the original Ppung Daddy idea. You don't even need a closed circuit: you can make a relay race, with several players in each team and just a long road.
  18. MajorAlvega
    I thought of that too... probably yes but only for small cars and/or small speeds. I needed strong magnets to keep the Speed Champions Porsche «linked» to the underground train at full speed.
  19. MajorAlvega
    Yes, we're aware of that method. But you need the motor + the battery + at least a power switch in the car. Fine for a bus or medium-size car but impossible for small cars, even with an old 9V micro-motor - the smallest battery alone (the old 9V) has at least the same size of the Creator car I used on the second video. I can use a small 90 mAh LiPo battery and a micro-motor but will offend half LEGO world :)
  20. MajorAlvega
    Just write the link from your youtube video but with http:// instead of httpS:// and then surround it with [ media ] and [ /media ] tags (without blank spaces between the brackets and the media or /media words) My LUG would love to use this idea with a modular racing road they are discussing right now (MPL) , someone called it "Animatronics MPL". But would need lots of bricks. I might try just a small kartodrome with few surrowdings and one or two of the small karts one our members posted there. But need to double everything under the floor, that's also quite expensive.
  21. MajorAlvega
    Hello. After watching video there was some discussion in my LUG that led me to try to achieve the same with Power Functions train motor and train tracks instead of 9V and a SBrick instead of the train speed controller. It worked but was ugly so someone suggested using strong magnets to conceal the train under the road.So after some tries I made got proof of concept: On the Speed Champions Porsche I'me using 4 neodymium 5mm magnets ("nanodots" brand) that fit very nicely in the technic plates holes. On the Power Functions train I'm using two 6x3 average magnets With just 2 neodymium magnets I also achieved a nice effect with a small 3-in1 Creator car; Before buying the neodymium I tried with small magnetic dishes (2x2, 1 plate high): It's enough for the Creator car but not enough for the Speed Champions. And the ugly concept that triggered this idea: (using an old 9V battery box as it is smaller than the Power Functions LiPo)
  22. MajorAlvega
    I agree that EV3 sensors don't need 9V supply voltage but I think pin 1 is Analog Input, not power. VCC is pin 4 (not 5.0V, I think is 4.3V or 4.7 V, not sure).
  23. MajorAlvega
    Update: - both track switches automated now (first LEGO WeDo) - decoupler also automated (second LEGO WeDO) - second RFID sensor added to sense when train is leaving whole system (so it can move backwards and pick the wagon from the opposite side) Still needs: - timing adjustments - a way to sense if decoupling occurred or not (1 in 5 it fails) - probably also detecting if train is just an engine or it has at least one wagon attached The traintable success rate is now really good (5 in 5 today) but I really think that a better align method is needed for long run demos. I still have 1 output and 2 input ports availables at the EV3 (and one WeDo port and whatever USB ports I want) so suggestions are welcome.
  24. MajorAlvega
    I'm Thanks. I'm not doing anything special... the tracks over the turntable are now slightly higher than the fixed segments but the train tolerates that. I'm also using flexy tracks to position the fixed track close enough to the turntable (there is a small gap but not enough for the train to derail if well aligned). At start I tried using an half of a flexy track at each end of the turntable (because I saw that on Fachmann's Train Turntable and Roundhouse) but gave up, it's easier to use this method. The tricky part is aligning the turntable with the fixed track. I'm using just one touch sensor so precision isn't great so I'm using a 3-step approach: - rotate the turntable (anti-clockwise) at fast speed until it activates the sensor - rotate back at slow speed until it deactivates the sensor - rotate again a fixed bit (anti-clockwise) to align the track This last fixed bit was empirically obtained. It failed a lot when using wheels under the turntable but now with boat studs (and another small gear) it's much better. But not perfect so after I finish the other parts of the system I'll return to the turntable, perhaps will add another touch sensor to increase precision.
  25. MajorAlvega
    Two updates: - a decoupler based on CamelBoy68's Simple Decoupler Mk III (motorized with a PF M motor but not yet automated) - better turntable (one more gear to get more precision and boat studs instead of wheels to reduce backlash - sucess rate doubled and still using just one touch sensor) The decoupler works well but I need to apply full power to the train motor (strong magnets, I'm suprised). As I don't have a sensor to know when the decoupling occurs, the train goes at full speed and will derail at the turn before the turntable, so in the EV3 code I'm sending just a small burst to the SBrick (0.4 seconds at full speed then FLOAT) and it seems to work well. But I still need to include some sensor to check for decoupling sucess/failure. Perhaps a light barrier with the EV3 color sensor. Next will automate the decoupler and the second track switch so the train can pick up the wagon again from the opposite side.
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